All LED Indoor Grow- Quantum Boards vs AutoCob's

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
My first cross Doggie Dreams is dry and trimmed. Remember folks I bred with this plant back crossing her to the original male, so I was not expecting huge harvest numbers. I also messed up this grow and everything dried out really bad in the middle right after I flipped to 12/12. The smoke and the high is amazing and I am so happy. She gave me 2 zips dry of decent buds aside from seeds and larf. Cant' wait to grow the BX1 seeds of this cross. My second strain I have three in veg so in the near future we will see what's up with that.

Pic for the people, better than I expected honestly, more plants to come down soon working on it little by little:

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Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
Well I trashed the rest of the crop spider mites webs all over everything. Saved like a half ounce of the Blue Harley and another of the GG#4. What I was able to salvage was great smokes great smooth and strong but I can't risk the bad stuff being I'll hat could really fuck me up possibly kill me lol. On a better note breeding was a success I was able to get seeds of all the plants. I hit then all with the Satori male before I killed him off. Also I topped all the plants in veg after the previous update I had not chopped them anywhere yet but it was time for one. I usually top my plants once then let them ride.

Also one of the two trays I ordered for the 3x3's came in so I pulled all the lots out of the veg tent clean d the hell out of the floor dropped in the tray and out the plants back in. Run off is no longer a concern. Will be doing the same thing in the other 3x3 when it comes in

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Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
I think I would keep all the natural growing outdoors. If what I was doing brought bugs in the house my swmbo would have my shit in the street.
Just partof the game man it's on me I had a bad couple weeks no ipm or watering and I fucked everything up. Tomorrow I will be taking down the hids in the big tent and cleaning up in there big time. New plans for that space starting to clear the way for what's to come. Don't worry guys will still be organics and led just different setup and more organized.

:)
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Just partof the game man it's on me I had a bad couple weeks no ipm or watering and I fucked everything up. Tomorrow I will be taking down the hids in the big tent and cleaning up in there big time. New plans for that space starting to clear the way for what's to come. Don't worry guys will still be organics and led just different setup and more organized.

:)
I know how that goes, man. I've been there lately myself.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
I'm trying to think of a way to make a rotating (spinning) vertical LED bar. You place it in the center of a mylar tube and voila, instant COB vert grow.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I'm trying to think of a way to make a rotating (spinning) vertical LED bar. You place it in the center of a mylar tube and voila, instant COB vert grow.
I had a good long conversation with a guy who has built a spinning light fixture with HID lamps. It moved FAST, like 120rpm! His rationale was that it prevented heat buildup.

The problems were many;
It had sharp edges and hot lamps and any contact with other objects was a recipe for instant disaster. I know people who got cut on their heads just standing up in the wrong spot.

It would spin so fast that the lamps did not properly warm up to operating temperature, adversely affecting efficiency, spectrum and lamp life.

It used brushes in the hub to transfer AC power to the rotating arms; the ballasts were on the arms with the lamps and reflectors. This meant that it could not be UL listed. The brushes would eventually wear out and could easily damage the ballasts near their end of life.

I never saw his system again. I think it was simply too fucking dangerous.

I built a light rotator many years ago from a mountain bicycle. The fixture made one rotation every three and a half minutes, plenty of time to get out of the way. It did not carry the ballast and it did not need brushes to transfer power to the lamp.

Distributed lighting from multi chip LED lights is still better.

Finally, spinning a light in the middle means you must grow in a cylinder shape- which sucks for lots of reasons, like being hard to work inside and pie wedge leaf shading issues. Flat panels are sooooo much better!

I see this idea pop back up every once in awhile. It was a good idea for its time- and that time is now thankfully behind us.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
I think the reason we keep coming back to this configuration, is because a tube shape vertical grow has the least amount of light losses vs the highest ratio of canopy you can light.
In the future, flying drone COB holders will spin in the center of large pipe grow ops.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I think the reason we keep coming back to this configuration, is because a tube shape vertical grow has the least amount of light losses vs the highest ratio of canopy you can light.
In the future, flying drone COB holders will spin in the center of large pipe grow ops.
No it actually doesn't. Flat panels can grow a lot more than round ones in a given space, especially in the square rooms 99.9% of us grow in.

Vertical flat panels can easily exceed the working trellis surface to floorspace ratio of cylinders. Bridge me, I know, I ran cylinders for years. Flat panels are simply better. They're more space efficient, they're MUCH more accessible and easier to work on, they don't have the shading problems and you can run them closer together than you might think possible.

Edit; directional lighting from LED chips direct light onto a flat trellis panel well enough that light losses are negligible.
 
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I'm trying to think of a way to make a rotating (spinning) vertical LED bar. You place it in the center of a mylar tube and voila, instant COB vert grow.
Sounds retarded your that crunched for space? Anyways, a stepper motor or DC brushless or some used drill you dont mine hacking up. some type of weighted disk (preferbaly balanced) attached to motor to get that inertia up. Disk spins one way the led module spins the opposite. The more inertia you can get from the disk/motor the faster the led module will spin. It may be unrealistic and not justifiable depending upon the power usage. Longer and skinnier led module be ideal. Can't use fin extruded heatsinks convection don't work that way, maybe might get away with it if you duct everything. By keeping that mass as close to the spinning axis the less power you will need to rotate. Also
need a swivel so it will spin freely. Other way would be using some gears and a belt. If your spinning it real fast than it needs to be balanced better as well which will be more of a pain. It all sounds like a waste of money, time, energy, for nothing extra in return.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
No it actually doesn't. Flat panels can grow a lot more than round ones in a given space, especially in the square rooms 99.9% grow in.

Vertical flat panels can easily exceed the working trellis surface to floorspace ratio of cylinders. I know, I ran cylinders for years. Flat panels are simply better. They're more space efficient, they're MUCH more accessible and easier to work on, they don't have the shading problems and you can run them close together than you might think possible.

Edit; directional lighting from LED chips directs light into a flat trellis panel well enough that light loses are negligible.
I have given flat panels some thought, maybe not enough. Will meditate on this.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
I am actually working on a plan to scale down the grow size but scale up the tech.
We have dropped one grow partner after this round. We have pretty unique climate swing issues to contend with.
They come from a school of walking into a room and figuring how many plants they can squeeze in there.
Often this will work somewhat, but I want to produce consistent medicine, round after round only having to worry about bugs, fertilizer, and diseases.

I'll send you a pic later. This round will still be very much my partner laying out the cash and making the budgetary choices. (I still give my input, but it may be ignored), but after this round I am in a position to buy out the current rigs or build my own. I have some ideas on how to make duct cooled units, which will impact g/W if you include cooling/heating/humidifying/dehumidifying costs. I also want it sealed and on CO2
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I am actually working on a plan to scale down the grow size but scale up the tech.
We have dropped one grow partner after this round. We have pretty unique climate swing issues to contend with.
They come from a school of walking into a room and figuring how many plants they can squeeze in there.
Often this will work somewhat, but I want to produce consistent medicine, round after round only having to worry about bugs, fertilizer, and diseases.

I'll send you a pic later. This round will still be very much my partner laying out the cash and making the budgetary choices. (I still give my input, but it may be ignored), but after this round I am in a position to buy out the current rigs or build my own. I have some ideas on how to make duct cooled units, which will impact g/W if you include cooling/heating/humidifying/dehumidifying costs. I also want it sealed and on CO2
I look forward to getting your PM. I've been working on the complete system for years and I've learned what the challenges are and how to overcome them.
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
I Like it though, I'm sure they can be made to work. I'd rather pump more air through ducts than run the air conditioner harder.

Same theory, terrible sketch haha
Have 3 cobs on each side staggered
Use aluminum U channel stock and house the drivers and wires etc inside. Use flat stock on the open side able to be affixed & removed for installation of drivers etc. Mount the whole fixture inside of an old hps cool tube and duct it like conventional hps light.
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