thetr33man
Well-Known Member
6 days later update.... This is under cidly aquabar LED strip. Combination of red and white diodes.
All COB Users - Lettuce Grow Challenge!!
- Thread starter OneHitDone
- Start date
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
we have been using them all winter for my brother aquaponis setup
that and some of the apollo panels..and some Herfi cuastom led bars using bridgelux and crees
two lights..cisly was epi..we like cidly lenses better..they were the only one who actually gave us the beam angle we asked for..
we have been experimenting with number of bars per 4 x 4 and various heights
ihave 25 3500k powered led tubes coming ..i want to test them..good lm/w . good price..[we will see]
still too hoardy to dontae anycobs to the lettuc3 thing..i have some drivers and will test some when i actully make some cob lights
i want to use the ones i had made for meds
OneHitDone
Well-Known Member
Are you guys ordering the Cidly bars straight from them?
Any par numbers under those? How many bars per ft etc?
Any par numbers under those? How many bars per ft etc?
thetr33man
Well-Known Member
What kind of tubes are you trying? Got a link?
thetr33man
Well-Known Member
Yeah I ordered mine direct, they were $30 for a 2ft bar, $40 for a 3ft bar and $50 for a 4ft bar. They will do custom spec for no additional charge. Shipping isnt super cheap so its good to order several together to save a bit. They will ship 6, 4ft bars in a single package and 8 3ft bars, if I remember correctly. This is USD Im talking about.
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
So as I begin to clear out some space the T-12 fluorescent aquarium light will be turned off, anything that remains inside will be under the 60W CXA3070 5000K and window light. One most severely damaged butterhead sprouts (purposely kept as close to the cob as they would tolerate ~6 in.) will be kept inside until maturity or death, for comparison to the ones moved outside and the hydro one that has been kept at a more reasonable distance ~24 in.
Color difference:
Above: Sorry its blurry but had to have 1/4 sec exposure to prevent flash and still have something. left "Salad Bowl" lettuce was several feet away from the COB mostly under the fluorescent, right was fairly close and the ones in the pic below were directly under it at ~24 in., had to use flash but they are considerably more purple.
Some "take-aways" (more observations) for me are the ones with more purple seem to be handling the hardening off a little better. I can better understand the leathery feel someone referenced earlier and would say that the butterheads with intensity damage (they're feelin' Bern) do feel leathery and not in a baby's bottom sort of way. Stretch needs to be controlled either by dimming, distance or diffusion.
The most severely damaged butterheads:
Below: The much healthier looking hydro at 24 in still has a little damage, Since it too will live out the remainder of it's life indoors I'll try to minimize the damage, then I can have a taste test of severely damaged in soil, damaged but allowed to recover (hopefully), outside, inside, and the hydro.
Color difference:
Above: Sorry its blurry but had to have 1/4 sec exposure to prevent flash and still have something. left "Salad Bowl" lettuce was several feet away from the COB mostly under the fluorescent, right was fairly close and the ones in the pic below were directly under it at ~24 in., had to use flash but they are considerably more purple.
Some "take-aways" (more observations) for me are the ones with more purple seem to be handling the hardening off a little better. I can better understand the leathery feel someone referenced earlier and would say that the butterheads with intensity damage (they're feelin' Bern) do feel leathery and not in a baby's bottom sort of way. Stretch needs to be controlled either by dimming, distance or diffusion.
The most severely damaged butterheads:
Below: The much healthier looking hydro at 24 in still has a little damage, Since it too will live out the remainder of it's life indoors I'll try to minimize the damage, then I can have a taste test of severely damaged in soil, damaged but allowed to recover (hopefully), outside, inside, and the hydro.
OneHitDone
Well-Known Member
It's a bit harder to produce a nice natural quality head of lettuce under led than one would think huh?So as I begin to clear out some space the T-12 fluorescent aquarium light will be turned off, anything that remains inside will be under the 60W CXA3070 5000K and window light. One most severely damaged butterhead sprouts (purposely kept as close to the cob as they would tolerate ~6 in.) will be kept inside until maturity or death, for comparison to the ones moved outside and the hydro one that has been kept at a more reasonable distance ~24 in.
Color difference:
Above: Sorry its blurry but had to have 1/4 sec exposure to prevent flash and still have something. left "Salad Bowl" lettuce was several feet away from the COB mostly under the fluorescent, right was fairly close and the ones in the pic below were directly under it at ~24 in., had to use flash but they are considerably more purple.
Some "take-aways" (more observations) for me are the ones with more purple seem to be handling the hardening off a little better. I can better understand the leathery feel someone referenced earlier and would say that the butterheads with intensity damage (they're feelin' Bern) do feel leathery and not in a baby's bottom sort of way. Stretch needs to be controlled either by dimming, distance or diffusion.
The most severely damaged butterheads:
Below: The much healthier looking hydro at 24 in still has a little damage, Since it too will live out the remainder of it's life indoors I'll try to minimize the damage, then I can have a taste test of severely damaged in soil, damaged but allowed to recover (hopefully), outside, inside, and the hydro.
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
Harder? Maybe, Frustrating? - at times, Not my first garden but first time managing this many and as much variety and this many sidebar "experiments". Never done broccoli or other greens, but they seemed to be particularly sensitive to the "extra" light with stretch. I was hoping for some comment on any of my observations, particularly the hardening off because quite honestly with this many containers its a pain in the ass to move them. The color thing is something I plan to dabble with a 2700K Z2 or Y2 bin 3070 connected in parallel hopefully mitigating some of the intensity issue as well. I may not do this until next year, but I'm just interested enough I might try it for a fall planting.It's a bit harder to produce a nice natural quality head of lettuce under led than one would think huh?
OneHitDone
Well-Known Member
Have any of you lettuce growers researched these Transcend T5 LED Grow Tubes?
https://www.transcendlighting.com/store/p5/T5_LED_Tube_(free_U.S._shipping).html
https://www.transcendlighting.com/store/p5/T5_LED_Tube_(free_U.S._shipping).html
OneHitDone
Well-Known Member
Can I ask why you would be using Jacks and Flora Nova?Not COB lettuce, but LED nonetheless. If thats not ok to post in this thread just let me know... Folgers containers make good single plant hydro units btw. In these Im using rainwater with Jacks hydro fert + calnit plus 2ml / gal magi-cal and 1.5ml/gal of Floranova grow.
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
waiting for4 ft led tubes to come
will test against cidly bars /panels with epi
and herfi bars with bridgelux and cree[two different bars]
aquaponics grows decent salad and triout
will test against cidly bars /panels with epi
and herfi bars with bridgelux and cree[two different bars]
aquaponics grows decent salad and triout
thetr33man
Well-Known Member
Here is some updated pictures, not sure why but some of the older leaves on this plant are having issues. New growth looks good tho.
Ive been using jacks and floranova cuz the floranova seems to have buffers that move my water into the range it should be PH wise, jacks is a cheaper alternative to using the expensive (relatively) flora nutes. Seem like a calmag issue?
Ive been using jacks and floranova cuz the floranova seems to have buffers that move my water into the range it should be PH wise, jacks is a cheaper alternative to using the expensive (relatively) flora nutes. Seem like a calmag issue?
OneHitDone
Well-Known Member
Should not be having calmag issues with Flora NovaHere is some updated pictures, not sure why but some of the older leaves on this plant are having issues. New growth looks good tho.
Ive been using jacks and floranova cuz the floranova seems to have buffers that move my water into the range it should be PH wise, jacks is a cheaper alternative to using the expensive (relatively) flora nutes. Seem like a calmag issue?
I call funny light spectrum
OneHitDone
Well-Known Member
Flora Nova Grow 5ml per gallon in 100ppm municipal water
OneHitDone
Well-Known Member
Your issue is looking more like a diseaseHere is some updated pictures, not sure why but some of the older leaves on this plant are having issues. New growth looks good tho.
Ive been using jacks and floranova cuz the floranova seems to have buffers that move my water into the range it should be PH wise, jacks is a cheaper alternative to using the expensive (relatively) flora nutes. Seem like a calmag issue?
http://livegpath.cals.cornell.edu/gallery/lettuce/septoria-leaf-spot-on-lettuce/
Bill Lidgate
Active Member
My Genovese basil is doing quite well under 250w of Blurple, hard to photo but its tasty
OneHitDone
Well-Known Member
Do you know what the ratio of Blue to Red is in your Burple?My Genovese basil is doing quite well under 250w of Blurple, hard to photo but its tasty
thetr33man
Well-Known Member
I was getting quite a bit of tip burn on new growth which Ive read is often caused by too much light or too little airflow so I decreased my hours some and that seemed to help. Dunno why this shit cant just be EASY!
Bill Lidgate
Active Member
They are 50W 50LED array COBS with 40 red LEDs and 10 blue LEDs but I haven't measured their spectra with my $10 spectrometer yet!