Aiming 400g 3x3 Runtz Muffin in hydroponics. I have poor sight
- Thread starter Jylhavuori
- Start date
Absorber
Well-Known Member
Looking sweet
Verbal_Vaper
Well-Known Member
Coming along nicely mate looking lush
Jylhavuori
Well-Known Member
My saviour has arrived just in time for the fourth week of flowering.
Advanced Nutrients Rhino Skin
(Potassium silicate).
Began to have small K Deficiency but this'll balance it out. If not, I'll just add some Remo's Astro Flower. Also this rhino skin will keep the ph better in range. Expensive, 35€/L and consumes 2ml/L every feed. Let's see if it's worth it...
Before, I've had GHE silicate but it was poor on DWC, so flaky and poor mixing, lots of buildup.
Well, most organic stuff is detrimental in hydroponics - unless one has a bioponic system. I promise to try it out someday: it gives best quality hydro, totally comparable to the quality of traditional soil organics (correct me if I'm wrong) but with hydro yields and control speed. On the minus side, problems can accumulate and almost all that is done is proactive. A plant can surprisingly die whenever, basically.
Advanced Nutrients Rhino Skin
(Potassium silicate).
Began to have small K Deficiency but this'll balance it out. If not, I'll just add some Remo's Astro Flower. Also this rhino skin will keep the ph better in range. Expensive, 35€/L and consumes 2ml/L every feed. Let's see if it's worth it...
Before, I've had GHE silicate but it was poor on DWC, so flaky and poor mixing, lots of buildup.
Well, most organic stuff is detrimental in hydroponics - unless one has a bioponic system. I promise to try it out someday: it gives best quality hydro, totally comparable to the quality of traditional soil organics (correct me if I'm wrong) but with hydro yields and control speed. On the minus side, problems can accumulate and almost all that is done is proactive. A plant can surprisingly die whenever, basically.
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Jylhavuori
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure right now... Plants behave weird. Might be the strain/pheno, but anyways. Some burning of leaf edges, minor light green on some leaves. I suspect that there is a nutrient imbalance. Potassium and magnesium issues, by the looks of it. Ph stable at 6.1, girls drink adequately, maybe a little too much. Lower canopy is fine, top sugar leaves are still unaffected. Nutrients put in reservoir have been 7-15-24, previously 8-16-24 (grow mirco bloom)
Now, to rule out the single nutrient issues or ammonia, I filled the reservoirs with 0-16-26 with the addition of Remo's cal-mag 16ml and PK 16ml. If the symptoms worsen I'll just do a flush. If eases, it was P/Mg issue. These kind of situations do call for a EC meter..but I'm reluctant to get one lol
If these symptoms carry on, interveinal chlorosis is coming up next..
Now, to rule out the single nutrient issues or ammonia, I filled the reservoirs with 0-16-26 with the addition of Remo's cal-mag 16ml and PK 16ml. If the symptoms worsen I'll just do a flush. If eases, it was P/Mg issue. These kind of situations do call for a EC meter..but I'm reluctant to get one lol
If these symptoms carry on, interveinal chlorosis is coming up next..
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Jylhavuori
Well-Known Member
I admit, I require too much precision from myself... It's just that this Runtz Muffin can throw herself quite easily.
play onPix look good but a little tip burn (EC too high) and slight cupping of leaves could be VPD or PPFD.
Re. interveinal chlorosis on the horizon — could be or are the leaves light because of the camera flash?
"EC meter..but I'm reluctant to get one lol" - "There old pilots and there are bold pilots but there are no old, bold pilots."
Re. interveinal chlorosis on the horizon — could be or are the leaves light because of the camera flash?
"EC meter..but I'm reluctant to get one lol" - "There old pilots and there are bold pilots but there are no old, bold pilots."
Jylhavuori
Well-Known Member
I tune the light from 900-1400 PPFD, but it hasn't been an issue. This problem came up also with the mother plant, and I already see two leafs progressed now. They are in light but not high tops, and also in the corner and side sections where the light amounts to 850-1050PPFD. The light green is there, not yellowing per se. VPD is around 0.8-1.4 depending on the weather outside. We had some rain..Pix look good but a little tip burn (EC too high) and slight cupping of leaves could be VPD or PPFD.
Re. interveinal chlorosis on the horizon — could be or are the leaves light because of the camera flash?
"EC meter..but I'm reluctant to get one lol" - "There old pilots and there are bold pilots but there are no old, bold pilots."
So, overall still good.
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I agree, looking good. I was thinking "a sea of green" but it's not a SOG so "a carpet of green".
Looking at those PPFD's, it's interesting to see some growers here on RIU running that high. I max out at just under 1100 and I'm an outlier on another site where I'm a member.
"VPD is around 0.8-1.4 depending on the weather outside. " - I'm at the mercy of the summer here in Southern California. I'm about 10 miles from the ocean so that normal highs for August are 28/82 but my tent is in a garage so temps will get well over 30 in the tent so I can only grows in Fall and Spring.
Jylhavuori
Well-Known Member
Carpet, heheh
I do admit that going over 1200 is totally unnecessary. the reason is to get sides and corners as good as possible and for general light penetration - this is mostly because of strain, heat conditions, or my "pre-sgrog" style, which create more narrow flowering in most cases. Also this panel has quite high blue peak, almost 500nm!
Carpet, heheh
I do admit that going over 1200 is totally unnecessary. the reason is to get sides and corners as good as possible and for general light penetration - this is mostly because of strain, heat conditions, or my "pre-sgrog" style, which create more narrow flowering in most cases. Also this panel has quite high blue peak, almost 500nm!
You might try wrapping/taping bond/printer paper on the light to even out PPFD. Works well and temps are low enough that there's no fire risk.
Jylhavuori
Well-Known Member
Flowering tent VPD has sailed too low, down to 0.8-1 at daily basis. Nights are getting cool already, lights go on at 7pm. Humidity goes up 10% more and temps come down a degree or two.
So, for countermeasure I turned off the oscillating over canopy fan, and voila,
VPD from 29c/65%(0.8 ) to 29c/45%(1.6)
Surely this is a temporary solution, as chances for budrot and PM go up. On the other hand I'm having a nutrient imbalance (high EC + K and Mg def) so lower VPD kinda would protect the plant from burning even more, with the expense of growth speed.
I'll have to change the fan to a smaller one or two, to push sideways. This big one would block too much light and it cannot be timed because it's circuit is digital.
I may even do some defoliation to ease the VPD when running the over canopy fan. Let's see.
Always something...
So, for countermeasure I turned off the oscillating over canopy fan, and voila,
VPD from 29c/65%(0.8 ) to 29c/45%(1.6)
Surely this is a temporary solution, as chances for budrot and PM go up. On the other hand I'm having a nutrient imbalance (high EC + K and Mg def) so lower VPD kinda would protect the plant from burning even more, with the expense of growth speed.
I'll have to change the fan to a smaller one or two, to push sideways. This big one would block too much light and it cannot be timed because it's circuit is digital.
I may even do some defoliation to ease the VPD when running the over canopy fan. Let's see.
Always something...
