GET A BOWL OR BONG READY FIRST BEFORE YOU APPROACH THIS...KINDA LONG BUT NONE THE LESS IT IS WHAT I THINK THAT SEEMS TO MAKE SENSE TO ME AND MY EXPERIENCE MADE ME TO BELIEVE WHAT I AM SHARING WITH EVERYONE.
ENJOY........
puff puff the magic dragon
have you thougt about autoflowering strains and want to figure something out really remarkable and new? if u do your homework correctly then you could get them to have the fullest yeild possible and by comparison to yeild average,u can get an auto to hit 3oz eazy with perfect conditons and most people get a non auto yeild somewhere around 1.5 oz,so by comparison standards,you will have tons more.
another reason to try autos is that if height is a factor then the auto will stay realatively small(9-15in) and if u use one 1k watt system,you can fit tons of autos under that one light and yet again by comparison you can get 3 oz per plant and in 3gal containers,so a 1k system will give you a great light area of 8ft by 8ft giving you aprox 8*8 grow room with 8*8 lighting you can get about 20 plants in there,and if you buy feminized autos you can get 20 females,you will need to rotate the plants on a 20 day cycle to ensure each plant gets the same amount of light per its life as its sister,thing of volleyball rotations if you have ever played in high school. add 20 females with 3oz aprox(ideal conditions) and you will get 60 dry ounces,16oz in a pound,so you can be looking at a yeild of 3.75lbs,you wouldnt be able to get as many non autos in there to fully mature at the best because as the plant grows and flowers it will require even more light per plant to keep perfect conditions.
also with a hid the temps that are produced can be easily manageably with a regular window fan,but and imo the autos seem to respond more to high intensity light that is alittle out of full reach to the tops,so add like 6in on top of the distance from the top of the plant to the light,by checking the temps with your hand and when it doesnt feel warm to the touch raise the light an extra 6in. also dont vent the hood bc in my experience,the autos seem to respond great to higher temps and blow up much more than cooler day temps,this extra heat also alows for a dramatic heat shift for the surrounding area from when the lights are on to lights off while keeping your roots realatively warm but not too warm to where it will kill the roots,but just slightly warm to encourage massive root development.this temp shift can and may add some purple to the hue aswell. you would expect the plant to go into extreme stress and just basicly screw you in the end,but no...they seem to really enjoy the stress,bc the genetics of the auto originally come from where the plant is in extreme conditions and is normally in a cold eviroment. the heat seems to play an important role in wheather you will get a few grams as lets say a ruderis in old prussia. now take one of those ruderis strains and give it the extremes but give it a nice warm eviroment where they can fully bask in the ambiance of the perfect conditions. with the warm temps it helps to keep the roots at a slight warmth it will provide for the roots to grow bananas,because when a seedling or clone is rooting they like more warmth to encourage quick vigorous root growth. now leave the same cutting or seedling to fully develop with that same warm temp at the develpment of the root stage then that will not allow for adequate root growth and ultimately killing the roots. bad roots equal bad growth. same goes as if the room temp was a constant 70 day in and out,that would provide for the soil temp to be an aprox same temp as air temp.this works good for non autos because it will simulate a constant season like say late spring to mid summer where plants are at max equal zen and grow boom boom big in a realative short period of time. keep the conditions ideal will provide for the most simulated ideal condition,but with autos,there auto gene came from the coldest part of the world and lands of extremes and geologically/botanically speaking the plants would never be in perfect conditions based upon there natural and original origins because the genes naturally adapted to there surrounding to survive, does charles darwin and his theory of survival of the fittest ring a bell? now take that gene that endured so much to survive and pass its trait on to the next generation the perfect and ultamate "fuck over" to survive. thus said when you take something that has been repressed for so long and had to do every thing it needs to survive and then take that one step extra to survive is to actually grow. now the plant will have the basic nessesities to life. to get the roots in the perfect conditons you add the little step extra and keep the temps around a constant 80degrees lights off and around 84 with light on. this will keep for a adequate soil drainage with out too much drying.
now for the watering and nutrients. first the watering,to ensure the proper soil drainage you will need to do a 50-50soil to perlite, i like to use an all organic no nutrient soil,because there are no added nutes,no need to worry about over nootin it on your first feed.
water when you think it needs watered
feed when you think it needs fed
the feedings,use something with a nice even balanced nutrients for the first 3weeks then swich to a nice flowering nutrients.the flowering nutes can be what ever you feel will work best,thats the good thing is that the plants will react positive to what ever flower nute because they are obviosly gona flower. use what you think will do the job.
this is what i believe is to be the true way to get the biggest and most out of autos.
as far as how many i grow for myself is 1-2 bc i have space issues,and real heat issues,it gets hot in the summer and cold in the winter,my house breathes literally.
peace up A-town,hope this helps anyone
