A perfect cure every time

Best thing I ever did for curing was throwing the Boveda packs in the garbage and drying longer before going into jars. You should notice the dank smells get louder as you dry it out. They should be right at the point of being crispy, stems should audibly snap. You’d be amazed at how much moisture bounces back after a couple weeks in the jar. Thats why you burp, more frequently at the beginning, and gradually let them go longer between burps. I consider long term storage to start when I’m like a couple weeks between burps. Then they can sit for several months without degrading.

IME Boveda packs are too moist, even the 58’s. And I dunno why but mine over time developed a nasty cigarette ashtray smell. Ditched the packs and never looked back.
 
2081992d1332421936-harvesting-curing-questions-416ed539de8ba07f07529d9b05f8c67b5_converted.jpg


This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.


HTH,
Simon
This helps! I'm going do my best cure ever this time.

Check out my Dehydrator VS Jars post. Now I'll put a hydrometer in the dehydrator after I get a good calibrator20250114_225333.jpg
 
Just get some caliber 3 or 4. All those little buggers on the lids are about as good as guess work. Put them all in a ziplock bag for 12 hours and none will read the same. Temp yes but humidity no. If your going to spend that kind of loot then get some grove bags and a couple caliber hydrometers. Get your harvest to 62% give or take a couple points and leave it in there for a month. Voila perfect cure. No burping at all. And if it does get a couple points too dry then use boveda packs to bring it up.
 
Just get some caliber 3 or 4. All those little buggers on the lids are about as good as guess work. Put them all in a ziplock bag for 12 hours and none will read the same. Temp yes but humidity no. If your going to spend that kind of loot then get some grove bags and a couple caliber hydrometers. Get your harvest to 62% give or take a couple points and leave it in there for a month. Voila perfect cure. No burping at all. And if it does get a couple points too dry then use boveda packs to bring it up.
damn good to know thanks! yeah i was also looking at grove bags too
 
I bought like 6 of those too for the same reason. Then they slowly started going into new grow tents. I like to have one in lung room on top of dehuey for flower or drying. I do extracts only so I dont cure really. I work with strains that dont need it out of convenience.

Anywho. I rember one saying to just dry and have one in there or a inkbird control. To dial the exaust fan to like 75rh and jar at my preference. Basically reading rh that way. Now that Im doing 60/60 again as I found otherwise could lose extract yield. Also the quality and color can be lost.

I used to set a space heater to keep 65f for the dehuey not to frost but couldnt find a good dial. Even the inkbird temp wasnt as good as rh control so was like 70F often. I read its operating temp is actually 41F so Im closer to 60/60 again.

Why it matters is holy cow does it dry much slower. It wants to feed it 50rh to keep 60rh in tent. Now its starting to be 55rh. So I wonder if that means its 65rh and more? Id imagine just looking at the meter on top of dehuey would be close to 60rh when its ready to jar.

At that time vs jarring Id press it to flower rosin its what only I do, as I found hash is volatile. Until its extracted into a new chemical compisition that keeps it preserved. I concluded that to find my online searches matched its a real thing and thats what was basically happening.

Drying opposite to 60/60 I lost a couple percent or more yield and color, quality. Its all I do so I must have that yield but would think that would make better smoke. I knew terps were volatile but not the hash itself. It clearly preserves at 60/60.
 
Back
Top