4 strains finished with no effects

growingforfun

Well-Known Member
He was never complaining about the size of the plants. This has all been about potancy.
If you have a small plant in too much dirt and poor conditions it makes a poor quality product.
On top of that his dissecting the buds. It's more a wonder they didn't hermi than than they are just weak.
 

danjac82

Well-Known Member
You’re ght
reading up on that strain its a 50-55 day and also says low thc.. so not sure why you took this one till 75 some strains wont amber up and maybe you took it past its prime>??
right
reading up on that strain its a 50-55 day and also says low thc.. so not sure why you took this one till 75 some strains wont amber up and maybe you took it past its prime>??
youre right, the blue widow is supposed to be fast. The plants looked to be in for a fast finish with early swelling and pistil receding. Trichs were crystal clear until after 9 weeks. I took sample buds at 8 weeks and it sucked. The jack 47 was sampled early and at chop..same lame weak buzz. Here’s the trichs on the jack. Very weak thin trichs511283BB-28D2-4EA0-B985-2C33C6EF7916.jpegFD66D603-0D52-4CF8-AAFE-A60920A1FA8D.jpeg0B8EE13D-B859-46EA-AC5D-D84F1931D5D3.jpeg
 

promedz

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure how some of you dont understand how everything, EVERYTHING, is connected. But that's ok.
Because the simple fact that someone has grown a seed and went straight into 12/12 and in turn got some potent bud puts your small plant to rest! Second if he had dampening or some thing that would result in too much dirt and overwatering it would show! It’s simple but I would love to see your buds vs mine? But hey I’m not trying to have a pissing Match you can search my content!
 

danjac82

Well-Known Member
If you have a small plant in too much dirt and poor conditions it makes a poor quality product.
On top of that his dissecting the buds. It's more a wonder they didn't hermi than than they are just weak.
. You’re off again man. The harvested plants were in undersized two gallon pots and plants were bigger than now. They got terribly root bound. In good conditions otherwise. Terrible quality. Had nothing to do with big pot small plant. It was quite the opposite. Plants now are in good condition also. Temps are great at mid 70s and plants are green..leaves reaching. I’ve found plants this size to do great in 5 gallons. Don’t have to feed as much and they stay reaching up much longer into flower
 

growingforfun

Well-Known Member
Because the simple fact that someone has grown a seed and went straight into 12/12 and in turn got some potent bud puts your small plant to rest! Second if he had dampening or some thing that would result in too much dirt and overwatering it would show! It’s simple but I would love to see your buds vs mine? But hey I’m not trying to have a pissing Match you can search my content!
Your likewise welcome to search mine. I always make sure to listen when people with less than half a year on these forums talk...
 

Palmerrdgrower

Well-Known Member
i use mid quality hps ballast and bulbs, and have good results consistently. i use Ipower ballasts, and have been using the same ones for three years with no problems, and vivosun enhanced red bulbs, which i replace yearly. i keep a couple of the used ones for emergency use, but none of them have burnt out with daily use.
there is always a learning curve to new equipment, but a competent grower should be able to get good results with half ass decent equipment. try again.
I did full grows with 400 watt mh. Plants just got a little leafy but were sticky and good
 

danjac82

Well-Known Member
Do you have the pics from before you cut it? Are you counting your flower time from when you switch the lights or from when the plants actually start to flower? The pictures you've shown so far make me really think these plants were pulled to early, sorry to say it, I know you have grown successfully before. Flowering doesn't start until the plant begins to form flowers, this is not debatable, this is nature. Counting time is totally irrelevant anyway since each plant has its own time frame to be properly matured.

I've ran sativas that have taken 14ish weeks to finally mature from when they began showing flowers, that means they were under 12/12 light for 16-17 weeks.

Like I said before I"ve had plants that were meh, but I don't think I've ever had a plant that flat out didn't get me high. I don't really care what the breeders say on time frames, those are just guidelines. You already said maybe the trichomes didn't look the way you thought after you posted those other pictures.

I havn't been impressed with any of the Dinafem I've ran fyi.

I have also had the ovule issues in a couple plants over the years. The more I've read about it, the more I feel it was directly related to using fem seeds. I havn't ran any new fem seeds in years at this point, and haven't had any ovule issues either....
A few pics before chop. I’ll find them. I usually don’t count days or breeder times but do keep it in mind for me to note to see how close it is. I admit I began flush with holes of maturation based on past experience but these fuckers just didn’t want to mature fast enough. Plants ended up yellowing bad and starting to hit the sugar leaves. I count flower at day 1 of flip so 5ese plants were all harvested 9-11 weeks from flip. You say the trichs look immature in my pics? My eyes are bad for this thing. Too much clear in there or just not enough amber? I haven’t been impressed with Dinafem either. Dinachem was ok last run. Deep cheese was ok and sucked this run as did the chem. Blue widow sucks but this could be my fault. Ace seeds Kali china was a killer smoke and all 3 girls rocked on all levels except ovules sucked. I do think it’s from fem seeds. Some plants have them bigger naturally as you say and fems bring them out bad for some reason. There’s a factor I’m missing that’s triggering the large ovule effect. Never noticed it on regular seeds either and that’s why this is my last run with fems to see if this solves that issue.
 

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
You’re ght
right

youre right, the blue widow is supposed to be fast. The plants looked to be in for a fast finish with early swelling and pistil receding. Trichs were crystal clear until after 9 weeks. I took sample buds at 8 weeks and it sucked. The jack 47 was sampled early and at chop..same lame weak buzz. Here’s the trichs on the jack. Very weak thin trichsView attachment 4283607View attachment 4283608View attachment 4283609
Honestly man, the more pictures I see the more I think you harvested early, the bracts really don't appear swollen.
 

growingforfun

Well-Known Member
Lmao I definitely get that everything is connected man, I've been doing this a long time. However if you have a healthy plant otherwise, then the size of the plant is not related to the potancy sorry.
Your right. I'm commenting on the photo he shared nothing else.
 

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
A few pics before chop. I’ll find them. I usually don’t count days or breeder times but do keep it in mind for me to note to see how close it is. I admit I began flush with holes of maturation based on past experience but these fuckers just didn’t want to mature fast enough. Plants ended up yellowing bad and starting to hit the sugar leaves. I count flower at day 1 of flip so 5ese plants were all harvested 9-11 weeks from flip. You say the trichs look immature in my pics? My eyes are bad for this thing. Too much clear in there or just not enough amber? I haven’t been impressed with Dinafem either. Dinachem was ok last run. Deep cheese was ok and sucked this run as did the chem. Blue widow sucks but this could be my fault. Ace seeds Kali china was a killer smoke and all 3 girls rocked on all levels except ovules sucked. I do think it’s from fem seeds. Some plants have them bigger naturally as you say and fems bring them out bad for some reason. There’s a factor I’m missing that’s triggering the large ovule effect. Never noticed it on regular seeds either and that’s why this is my last run with fems to see if this solves that issue.
Flower begins when the plants start to form flowers. Counting from 12/12 is totally made up and arbitrary, because different plants take different amounts of time to transition into flower. Understanding the plant biology is an important part of being successful. It typically takes 7-14 days for plants to transition, and I've had it take closer to 20 days from sativa dominant and genetically immature plants. If you flowered them at 38 days from seed, then those plants were not genetically mature, I'd put money on it. That makes me believe that they should have taken 14-21 days to actually start making flowers. That means you didn't cut at 9-11 weeks, you cut at 6-9 weeks, depending on the variables. Once again you cut early!

You also just admitted that you started flushing the plants early. So you stopped feeding the plants at the peak of their growth. That starved them making the leaves fade and probably making the plant try to finish growin as fast as possible. However the trichomes didn't mature properly because you cut them 3-5 week earlier then you should have.....

You can not say " these fuckers just didn’t want to mature fast enough" You don't get to decide what is fast enough. That is decided by your environment and care, as well as by genetics. You got impatiant and cut early. No reason to be confused anymore. Thanks for sharing all the info with us however slowly it happened.
 

danjac82

Well-Known Member
Your right. I'm commenting on the photo he shared nothing else.
Not sure what point you’re making and if you’ve thought it through. Plants were flipped small and they’ll finish under 2 and a half feet. That’s what I want. Not sure how you’re connecting this to potency when I’ve shared with you that I used to use cfl and plants were much more “spindly” and airy loose buds but greater potency. See what I’m saying. I don’t understand why you keep going on about plant size and pot size. The weak plants were rootbound in small pots, unlike the plants you saw growing in pics in 5 gallon. Those are current plants. The 5 gallon are fine. Just have to water them right. Keep them green and leaves reaching for the sky. Not being a dick here cause I know you have more experience but the advise you’ve given hasn’t quite lined up with the reality of my grow. That’s cause you aren’t here too see it all play out so I’m not calling you stupid by any means. Just saying. I agree small plant, big pot can be an issue. I leaned that the hard way in the past but really can keep them happy as smaller plant in 5 gallon now. No overwater or droop symptom. No rot or anything. They grow faster than in the smaller pots
 

growingforfun

Well-Known Member
Not sure what point you’re making and if you’ve thought it through. Plants were flipped small and they’ll finish under 2 and a half feet. That’s what I want. Not sure how you’re connecting this to potency when I’ve shared with you that I used to use cfl and plants were much more “spindly” and airy loose buds but greater potency. See what I’m saying. I don’t understand why you keep going on about plant size and pot size. The weak plants were rootbound in small pots, unlike the plants you saw growing in pics in 5 gallon. Those are current plants. The 5 gallon are fine. Just have to water them right. Keep them green and leaves reaching for the sky. Not being a dick here cause I know you have more experience but the advise you’ve given hasn’t quite lined up with the reality of my grow. That’s cause you aren’t here too see it all play out so I’m not calling you stupid by any means. Just saying. I agree small plant, big pot can be an issue. I leaned that the hard way in the past but really can keep them happy as smaller plant in 5 gallon now. No overwater or droop symptom. No rot or anything. They grow faster than in the smaller pots
Hps growing is differant than cfl growing, your going to have to change it up a bit. By the end of the day you DONT want the leafs praying, you want them to he sleeping. That's how you'll know they have gotten enough light for the day. Theres a cycle you'll notice.
Your shaping the plants like people do for cfl grows, where the cfls are positioned all around the plants, and small plants because the light doesnt have enough power to produce a lot of buds.
That's why above I said you should look into the scrog technique to use the light from your hps better.

If you are going to use hps your going to have to change things is what I'm trying to say. Use the 1kw hortilux super hps bulbs. Use scrog. Use bigger plants and make sure you have plenty of fans blowing across the canopy.
Simply having good temps isnt enough. Simply having green plants isnt enough.
With hps airflow and where the air flows becomes very important. How long it takes the plant to consume the water becomes very important.

I have had 3 gallon containers produce 8 oz dry. It's not generally "rootbound" when people here say or thing it is, they just dont know what the real issue is.

I've hit 2 lbs from a single plant indoors. Ya my focus is large plants and getting the best results I can. I've done small plants, every size container from 2 qt, to 30 gallon indoors.
 

danjac82

Well-Known Member
Flower begins when the plants start to form flowers. Counting from 12/12 is totally made up and arbitrary, because different plants take different amounts of time to transition into flower. Understanding the plant biology is an important part of being successful. It typically takes 7-14 days for plants to transition, and I've had it take closer to 20 days from sativa dominant and genetically immature plants. If you flowered them at 38 days from seed, then those plants were not genetically mature, I'd put money on it. That makes me believe that they should have taken 14-21 days to actually start making flowers. That means you didn't cut at 9-11 weeks, you cut at 6-9 weeks, depending on the variables. Once again you cut early!

You also just admitted that you started flushing the plants early. So you stopped feeding the plants at the peak of their growth. That starved them making the leaves fade and probably making the plant try to finish growin as fast as possible. However the trichomes didn't mature properly because you cut them 3-5 week earlier then you should have.....

You can not say " these fuckers just didn’t want to mature fast enough" You don't get to decide what is fast enough. That is decided by your environment and care, as well as by genetics. You got impatiant and cut early. No reason to be confused anymore. Thanks for sharing all the info with us however slowly it happened.
I agree they are a bit early. I knew that from jump street but have harvested many of earlier buds with mostly clear trichs and they were much more potent. Atleast gave that race speedy early buzz. These have a lot of cloudy and I’ve smoked a lot that was at this level of maturity and was always much more potent. I agree though, early has affected it. A few more weeks and I probably would have got a small actual high. From my experience if it’s fire, you get high when the buds look like mine look..just not as high. This still leaves out the answer to why the one jack 47 at over half amber is weak as shit also. Anyways here’s a pic of one jack before chop at a distance. Very rootbound. Pot looks pretty small doesn’t it? I should clarify that I began flush early but got some to amber up and all plants to go cloudy or what I think or thought is cloudy. I started adding ferts again when I saw they were taking forever. It’s just been my experience with many grows that when the buds swell and pistils are all red, it’s close and safe to flush. Lesson learned this time for sure. Took atleast one plant to a decent maturity..I know that’s but damn..do them trichs really look that premature?E3DF7BA6-8D1F-4C40-93C1-798EC2B7A233.png
 

danjac82

Well-Known Member
Hps growing is differant than cfl growing, your going to have to change it up a bit. By the end of the day you DONT want the leafs praying, you want them to he sleeping. That's how you'll know they have gotten enough light for the day. Theres a cycle you'll notice.
Your shaping the plants like people do for cfl grows, where the cfls are positioned all around the plants, and small plants because the light doesnt have enough power to produce a lot of buds.
That's why above I said you should look into the scrog technique to use the light from your hps better.

If you are going to use hps your going to have to change things is what I'm trying to say. Use the 1kw hortilux super hps bulbs. Use scrog. Use bigger plants and make sure you have plenty of fans blowing across the canopy.
Simply having good temps isnt enough. Simply having green plants isnt enough.
With hps airflow and where the air flows becomes very important. How long it takes the plant to consume the water becomes very important.

I have had 3 gallon containers produce 8 oz dry. It's not generally "rootbound" when people here say or thing it is, they just dont know what the real issue is.

I've hit 2 lbs from a single plant indoors. Ya my focus is large plants and getting the best results I can. I've done small plants, every size container from 2 qt, to 30 gallon indoors.
Do you notice a lot of potency difference between 600 and 1000 watt? My thing is this. I’ve smoked plants on the edge of a 1000 watt grow and it definitely wasn’t getting the amount of light that the plants directly under my 600 get. I keep it close. So that throws me off. If it’s a lame about intensity, I still question how the cfl got better quality with obvious less light on them and through them? The hps isn’t much brighter through the plants and at canopy. I know others who veg under t5 or cfl and flower under hps. None of the same quality issues that I’m seeing. Doing 3 under the Fluor lights like I used to and the others under the hps to see if I see a quality difference. I’ll know after harvest. I’ll take them to a full finish and no early bullshit flush or impatience. I do want to scrog for sure and have been looking into it. This bulb is 2000k can’t remember brand..but regardless of brand...buds should get you toasted if it’s good genetics and you grow it right is what I assume. Plants underneath hps are in a bigger bedroom. Lots of empty space around them. Lots of air. Fan blows through plants oscillating not too hard but a decent breeze. Light has a fan that blows across it. I keep door open a lot and fresh air always coming in. In the two gallons This last run that produced shit weed, plants drank 3/4 a gallon every 2-3 days. Dirt got really weird and compact eventually. I’m used to bigger pots. In the 5 gallon I’m currently in..I put a gallon into them at water and they go 4 days before next night water. Rough year 4 days..maybe 5
 
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