denjo710
Member
LOL sick
(4)CXB3070 & Meanwell HLG-185H-C1400B driver? Want to order tonight!! Need Input!
- Thread starter apoulin
- Start date
Tim Fox
Well-Known Member
Yes you can put the driver anyplace, put the driver outside of the grow tent for less heat, put the driver inside for more warmth if needed, most of us put the driver near the cobs for convienance, it makes the light asingle unit, compact, easy to carry and move around, but you are not bound by rules with diy place the driver anywhere and run the wires
denjo710
Member
Yes, I just think that it is way easier to move without any wire on it, basically. What heat are we talking about here? What are 4 cxb's doing? What is the driver doing? I cannot imagine that a small driver creates such "heat" but why not significantly lowering the ppm of the exhaust fans. No need for 100%. I own leds and they are far from hot. My better ones are so good actually, I have to turn on the heater in the winter
(but they aren't crees)
Tim Fox
Well-Known Member
every light build is differant, currently my cxa's dont make much heat, the drivers do, they are warm to the touch but not hot, i run my fans really slow, and i get about a 10 degree rise in my box from the whole light fixture,
others have said the for cxb3070 that uses this single driver that the driver gets really hot?,, I wont know till we fire the light up, maybe ask the guys who are using this 4 cob light already?,, but if your grow room is bigger than mine that makes a differance, how fast yor fan is running also, so m any variables,
but you have options by moving the driver around if needed,, plus the single driver is heavy, you may want your light bar to be lighter?
others have said the for cxb3070 that uses this single driver that the driver gets really hot?,, I wont know till we fire the light up, maybe ask the guys who are using this 4 cob light already?,, but if your grow room is bigger than mine that makes a differance, how fast yor fan is running also, so m any variables,
but you have options by moving the driver around if needed,, plus the single driver is heavy, you may want your light bar to be lighter?
denjo710
Member
I haven't read anything yet but a single driver won't push the tent 10° plus. That's utopian.. the cxa's need each a driver correct? Anyhow I will not put the driver in my tent. I don't see the point. All cables can be one clean cable going out of the room in a shrink tube. Just use thicker cables. 1,5mm + and you won't have loss whatsoever.. I have already a plan. I will put 2 and 2 on a rail and these on another rail which you can pull out as well as the 2&2 leds / fans. In the end I will have a 50x50cm unit which I can transform into a 1m led panel. Each 25cm 1 cxb instead of a square. 
Tim Fox
Well-Known Member
no there are ways to hook a single driver to multiple cxa's,,
but most people use the single driver method
my light set up does rise me 10 degress, its doing it right now, its 63 degrees in my bedroom and 73 in my box,
I like the shrink tube cable plan, sounds great
I really like being able to manipulate the temps by using the lights, this will give me plenty of temp options this winter,, so when I crank the lights up, I can just speed up the exhaust fan to compensate and set my room temp right where i need it to be just by using the lights and fans, pretty cool,, no need to use heaters,
but most people use the single driver method
my light set up does rise me 10 degress, its doing it right now, its 63 degrees in my bedroom and 73 in my box,
I like the shrink tube cable plan, sounds great
I really like being able to manipulate the temps by using the lights, this will give me plenty of temp options this winter,, so when I crank the lights up, I can just speed up the exhaust fan to compensate and set my room temp right where i need it to be just by using the lights and fans, pretty cool,, no need to use heaters,
What are you running for ventilation? Seems like if you did a negative pressure setup with high air movement, it should be cooler. I know my 10 sq ft room was about 2-3 degrees warmer than the house temp (75 house, 78 room) and I had a 440CFM fan exhausting and passive intake bringing in cool air.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Hey there - awesome post this is. I'm just curious why you are going for 3000k instead of 3500k? I notice there seems to be a lot of 3000k in stock at digikey.
apoulin
Well-Known Member
I chose the 3000k because it was readily available and cost effective.
This has been a really interesting read, im on my first grow with a mars hydro 144 reflector in a 4x8 tent with three plants currently in flower and so far so good, im happy with my led but i would like to upgrade soon and this diy cob is something I've been researching relentlessly. Theres one question i have, i would like to keep it simple and start slow with these types of builds, is there a driver than can power a single cxb3070 as efficiently as the builds mentioned in this thread. I cant seem to figure this out.
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
I guess one option would be to look into something like the Meanwell HLG 60-xxx, if we are truly talking about highest driver efficiency...However if you just want the same diode effiency...I use some simple Meanwell LPC 60-700 and 60-1050 drivers, to test run single cobs....in fact I just powered some CXB 3070 3500k's on the 700mA driver...Diode efficiency is hovering 58% efficient [real close without looking at the exact datasheet #]
These drivers are rated at 89% efficiency when over 50% load is attached roughly...The HLG drivers are 91-94%....so for example if I ran the same diode on LPC 700mA driver and HLG 700ma driver, I would get the same diode efficiency, but the LPC model would draw somewhere between 3-5% wattage at the Plug.....
The LPC's are cheap and indestructible....at least for 5 years
Thanks for the quick response, much appreciated. I'll check those out first thing in the morning. Seems like it might be what i was looking for. I wanna get into this slowly and i figure this way i can move onto more intricate builds as i become more familiar with all the details involved, would be great if could upgrade my tent and not depend on that Mars hydro unit, anyway thanks for the help, I'm so glad i joined this forum.
So after doing more reading on the subject in this forum which by the way has some very talented contributors, im begining to understand things a bit more. Im going with the lpc60 1050 to run a single cxb3070 with an active heatsink, if all goes well and i dont fry the cob I'll be doing more of these. Thanks again.