DLOPEZ1420
Well-Known Member
Grape Who.. still hasnt showed sex..
3k Orca Hood Grow ft.AOS,P.BERRY,DR.WHO, QUERKLE,A.ORANGE,Q. KUSH,DR.GRAPE,GRAPE APE.
- Thread starter DLOPEZ1420
- Start date
DLOPEZ1420
Well-Known Member
Da lab.... 12/12 as of tommorrow.. Here we go.. Fed them hoes with bud blood @ 1tsp per gallon. Lets see..
DLOPEZ1420
Well-Known Member
My quantum keeper.. im really liking the structure of this plant..
natro.hydro
Well-Known Member
Man that lil bubbe cloner does work! Definetly ditching my caveman like methods next time i go to cline, just pulled 28 lil ones off my space bombs and now those are crammed in my 3x3 . Bought a new growlab145(4'9"x4'9") on black friday but of course the shop was out of stock so didnt get in till yesterday and now i have no more time till saturday to set the shit up... Looking good in there lopez excited to c what the dynamic duo of orca x bud blood does for your yields.
bigworm6969
Well-Known Member
looking good as always
djshorty06
Well-Known Member
Thats what it is a gram per gal. I used to pull out my old pocket scale to measure that out.
DLOPEZ1420
Well-Known Member
1 tsp. = .8.. all good. They love it..
DLOPEZ1420
Well-Known Member
Some lights off shots...
Much denser canopy.. ORCA works people...
Much denser canopy.. ORCA works people...
bigworm6969
Well-Known Member
wow looks like a jungle in there
After the first week of bud blood i think id start lightly feeding them PK boosters like some bat guano's ..It needs a elevated PK Boost to around week 5.Bat guano should work out real nice.
The bud blood will set the buds fast as fook all over the plant and will decrease your finish time by about a week im thinking.In just a couple of days you will see crowning on the bud.Probably about a week faster than normal.
The bud blood will almost instantly induce the plant into bud.
I can tell by the way your plants are growing that the lowers as it goes along will not get any light to them at all and all that will develop will be lighter fluffy bud.
You would probably be better off stalking the lower branch's out as soon as you can this will throw the development to the top of the colas and allow more light and air through the lowers of the plant developing the buds larger.The lower branch's are just going to steal energy from the upper bud development and not develop bud worth anything but making hash out of.The sooner the lowers come out the sooner it throws the energy to the top of the plant.
Some people like to keep the lowers for making hash out of .That is up to you
Ive found a constant steady air flow from below the plants and through the branch's helps the bud development tremendously.Constant steady air flow is the key.It doesnt have to be fast just constant movement.Air movement in my opinion is one of the most over looked areas of peoples grows,They will get stagnant air pockets within their grows and wonder why the buds in that one section of their grow are not as developed or pre mature yellowing leaves.A fan located on one side of the grow room blowing air through the tops of the plants and another fan at the other side of the grow room blowing air under the plants creates a vortex type effect and keeps the air rotating in a circular motion through the plants like a constant vortex.The air must be able to penetrate through the plants though just like the light.If the plant is to thick the air will not circulate or penetrate.
Your plants are going to be thick as hell with a nice canopy of top colas.Of course some of this stuff i am reflecting on you already know but i have chatty weed.
You should be able to separate the plants by height this will allow you to keep the hoods as close to the the canopy as possible.
If you can keep the colas evenly spaced through the canopy will also increase your production.I use tomato cages.
The wizard as he is known uses a set of bamboo sticks formed into a TEEPEE and ties the colas under the light evenly with them.This allows for more even light and air distribution through the plants colas and also relieves some of the stress off of the plant causing more plant energy to go into bud development.( im sure you can look up the wizards grow in high times..he was growing your grape ape..Fucking amazing it was a good read for sure.If you were to get up on a ladder and take a picture of the top of the grow all you should see are a bed of evenly spaced top colas.with almost no visual of the floor.When you take a picture from the bottom there should be nothing but stalked branch's with a little light going through the plants.
Crap..gotta go do some work.EVERYTHING IS LOOKING STELLAR HOMIE.
The bud blood will set the buds fast as fook all over the plant and will decrease your finish time by about a week im thinking.In just a couple of days you will see crowning on the bud.Probably about a week faster than normal.
The bud blood will almost instantly induce the plant into bud.
I can tell by the way your plants are growing that the lowers as it goes along will not get any light to them at all and all that will develop will be lighter fluffy bud.
You would probably be better off stalking the lower branch's out as soon as you can this will throw the development to the top of the colas and allow more light and air through the lowers of the plant developing the buds larger.The lower branch's are just going to steal energy from the upper bud development and not develop bud worth anything but making hash out of.The sooner the lowers come out the sooner it throws the energy to the top of the plant.
Some people like to keep the lowers for making hash out of .That is up to you
Ive found a constant steady air flow from below the plants and through the branch's helps the bud development tremendously.Constant steady air flow is the key.It doesnt have to be fast just constant movement.Air movement in my opinion is one of the most over looked areas of peoples grows,They will get stagnant air pockets within their grows and wonder why the buds in that one section of their grow are not as developed or pre mature yellowing leaves.A fan located on one side of the grow room blowing air through the tops of the plants and another fan at the other side of the grow room blowing air under the plants creates a vortex type effect and keeps the air rotating in a circular motion through the plants like a constant vortex.The air must be able to penetrate through the plants though just like the light.If the plant is to thick the air will not circulate or penetrate.
Your plants are going to be thick as hell with a nice canopy of top colas.Of course some of this stuff i am reflecting on you already know but i have chatty weed.
You should be able to separate the plants by height this will allow you to keep the hoods as close to the the canopy as possible.
If you can keep the colas evenly spaced through the canopy will also increase your production.I use tomato cages.
The wizard as he is known uses a set of bamboo sticks formed into a TEEPEE and ties the colas under the light evenly with them.This allows for more even light and air distribution through the plants colas and also relieves some of the stress off of the plant causing more plant energy to go into bud development.( im sure you can look up the wizards grow in high times..he was growing your grape ape..Fucking amazing it was a good read for sure.If you were to get up on a ladder and take a picture of the top of the grow all you should see are a bed of evenly spaced top colas.with almost no visual of the floor.When you take a picture from the bottom there should be nothing but stalked branch's with a little light going through the plants.
Crap..gotta go do some work.EVERYTHING IS LOOKING STELLAR HOMIE.
DLOPEZ1420
Well-Known Member
Thank for all that info.. im gonna b doing a lower trim on saturday.. all ur tips an tricks have worked for me so far.. thanks again homie.. RESPECT..
DLOPEZ1420
Well-Known Member
You must spread some Reputation
around before giving it to
max420thc again.
around before giving it to
max420thc again.
DLOPEZ1420
Well-Known Member
Pics from two days ago..
DLOPEZ1420
Well-Known Member
A panaramic of the whole setup..
DLOPEZ1420
Well-Known Member
The querkle is such a lil pussy. Not even 2ft tall.. lotta colas though..
DLOPEZ1420
Well-Known Member
And one more..
DLOPEZ1420
Well-Known Member
So had a chance to trim the ladies today. Here is the afteemath..
I see a bunch of bud sites showing and starting to crown real nice.It has been only 8 days since you put them into bud.OUTSTANDING. This is going to increase the size of your crop big time.
Do you normally see site development and crowns at 8 days?
Dont be scared to strip more of the lowers out By the time it has finished you will have had to strip them out anyway.Your crop is going to be thick fast blocking air and light penetration.I like that the light is hitting the floor that is kind of how i judge when to stop trimming a plant.When i first put them in they look like charlie brown christmas trees all of the lowers are taken out but the top 1/3 to 1/4 of the plant is all that is left..at two weeks i have to rape the lowers out again and continue to around week five raping lowers out of the plant .
Just made another ORCA hood for the veg room. The orca hoods put out WAY more light than any store hood i have ever owned. HUGE difference in light out put over even a good hood like the super cobra.Can you drop your humidity levels at night?Its hard to control humidity at night.Temp drops at night will greatly increase your humidity levels as the temp drops it meets the dew point and air gets heavy with water and the humidity level raises.If you can lowers your humidity levels though at night this will greatly increase resin production.Running 50% humidity with lights on and try for around 35 to 40% humidity with lights off.Titan makes a lights off and on humidity controller.For a little less than 100 bucks.
Humidity control and temperature drop at night are the key factors in resin production these two things alone can greatly increase resin production and potency.The more resin the plant produces the more potent and flavorful the plant is.
If you got some furniture moving casters with wheels on them of course and set each plant on them it would make the plants easy to move around and separate by size.Also alot easier to work on trim .The problem with how your plants are growing is they are going to grow into one another.You want them close together but contained within their own spaces too when you pull them out to work on they are not pulling branch's from another plant off,A TEEPEE design made out of bamboo stakes over the top of the plants with something holding the branchs in place would be ideal.You will be able to easily work on the plants and keep the colas separated for max light and air penetration.Life will get easier.
Normally i start with the plants in a bowl shape under the lamp the shortest ones in the center.There isnt much to block the light out in the beginning.At the third week they are separated by size making a nice even canopy under the lamps.Where one plant is not blocking the light to another and all the colas are nice and tight to the light evenly spaced and preferably supported to help hold the branch weight taking stress of of the branch and energy off the plant from having to support it.There is a reason allot of scrog growers gain more weight than other types of grows.
When people think of scrog they seem to always think of screens over the top,I am not a fan of that because it makes it real hard to work the plants and move them,
There is more than one way to skin a cat though.All a scrog does is remove the stress from the plant and make even canopy's the same thing can be accomplished by using bamboo stakes or tomato cages or almost anything ,chicken wire.You dont have to do any of this stuff im real good at spending other peoples money
.
Remember everyone of those branch's you have stripped out of the plants after it has already developed has already robbed energy from the rest of the bud sites.Best to try and get rid of it before it even has a bud on it that way the energy of the plant goes to the bud sites that will produce..even more if the thiefen lower branch's are gone.
Each plant is different though.My querkle that grows more like a grape vine gets penetration into the plant deeper and develops good hard nugs way into the plant the ripper if the buds do not get light are just fluff so i trim the lowers out of it more heavy.If its not getting good light and air..or if its not going to get good light and air at a future date GONE.
I love organic grown dirt it smells and tastes to good.In two more weeks your grow is going to be out of control.Damn..a terrible problem to have..
My dope grows to big..BUMMER.
My dope is too dopy..We all need those kinds of head aches dont we?
Do you normally see site development and crowns at 8 days?
Dont be scared to strip more of the lowers out By the time it has finished you will have had to strip them out anyway.Your crop is going to be thick fast blocking air and light penetration.I like that the light is hitting the floor that is kind of how i judge when to stop trimming a plant.When i first put them in they look like charlie brown christmas trees all of the lowers are taken out but the top 1/3 to 1/4 of the plant is all that is left..at two weeks i have to rape the lowers out again and continue to around week five raping lowers out of the plant .
Just made another ORCA hood for the veg room. The orca hoods put out WAY more light than any store hood i have ever owned. HUGE difference in light out put over even a good hood like the super cobra.Can you drop your humidity levels at night?Its hard to control humidity at night.Temp drops at night will greatly increase your humidity levels as the temp drops it meets the dew point and air gets heavy with water and the humidity level raises.If you can lowers your humidity levels though at night this will greatly increase resin production.Running 50% humidity with lights on and try for around 35 to 40% humidity with lights off.Titan makes a lights off and on humidity controller.For a little less than 100 bucks.
Humidity control and temperature drop at night are the key factors in resin production these two things alone can greatly increase resin production and potency.The more resin the plant produces the more potent and flavorful the plant is.
If you got some furniture moving casters with wheels on them of course and set each plant on them it would make the plants easy to move around and separate by size.Also alot easier to work on trim .The problem with how your plants are growing is they are going to grow into one another.You want them close together but contained within their own spaces too when you pull them out to work on they are not pulling branch's from another plant off,A TEEPEE design made out of bamboo stakes over the top of the plants with something holding the branchs in place would be ideal.You will be able to easily work on the plants and keep the colas separated for max light and air penetration.Life will get easier.
Normally i start with the plants in a bowl shape under the lamp the shortest ones in the center.There isnt much to block the light out in the beginning.At the third week they are separated by size making a nice even canopy under the lamps.Where one plant is not blocking the light to another and all the colas are nice and tight to the light evenly spaced and preferably supported to help hold the branch weight taking stress of of the branch and energy off the plant from having to support it.There is a reason allot of scrog growers gain more weight than other types of grows.
When people think of scrog they seem to always think of screens over the top,I am not a fan of that because it makes it real hard to work the plants and move them,
There is more than one way to skin a cat though.All a scrog does is remove the stress from the plant and make even canopy's the same thing can be accomplished by using bamboo stakes or tomato cages or almost anything ,chicken wire.You dont have to do any of this stuff im real good at spending other peoples money
.Remember everyone of those branch's you have stripped out of the plants after it has already developed has already robbed energy from the rest of the bud sites.Best to try and get rid of it before it even has a bud on it that way the energy of the plant goes to the bud sites that will produce..even more if the thiefen lower branch's are gone.
Each plant is different though.My querkle that grows more like a grape vine gets penetration into the plant deeper and develops good hard nugs way into the plant the ripper if the buds do not get light are just fluff so i trim the lowers out of it more heavy.If its not getting good light and air..or if its not going to get good light and air at a future date GONE.
I love organic grown dirt it smells and tastes to good.In two more weeks your grow is going to be out of control.Damn..a terrible problem to have..
My dope grows to big..BUMMER.
My dope is too dopy..We all need those kinds of head aches dont we?