320ppm ok to transplant seedlings in dwc?

toaster struedel

Well-Known Member
Hi, I'm new to dyna gro nutes, I have some week old seedlings in 8oz cups of seedstarter. I am ready to was off the dirt and transplant to 5gal dwc buckets for veg, will 320 ppm be ok for them? That's 10ml protekt, 10ml grow, 2.5ml magpro, and 0.5ml of calmag per 4 gallons of RO water, with a ph of 5.9 . Thanks in advance!!!
 
You don't need any nutes for week old seedlings, within reason. Post a pic of what your week old seedling looks like. When i first started DWC, everyone told me that there are no nutes like in a soil, you have to have nutes. I ignored this and filled the buckets with plain water, and my plants did just great, whether they were clones, or seedlings trasplanted from soil.
 
My plants r just starting their 2nd node, I'm charging my camera will post a pic later. My RO water is 5ppm, they are going to need something. When I was using GH nutes I would transplant at the same stage into 15ml micro and 30ml bloom per 4 gal bucket,and they would do all right. And that was with 200 ppm tapwater. I am just looking for reassurance, because this is my first time using dyna gro nutes.
 
Unless you're real familiar with all the micro-nutrients and what you will need to use to feed your girls. Then I would recommend to stop using the RO'd water.
 
I agree with hydrogreen. You want a smallboy not RO if u have decent water. Leaves the metals in the water that your plants like.

320ppm will be fine. Just leave it for a week then up the dose to 500 for a week, then up it to full strength when you have 4+ full grown fan leaves and a few nodes. The cool thing with hydro is if your nutes are too low you will know within a few days. Same goes with fixing the problem. You will see if your changes are working within a week. Try to make one change at a time to narrow down causes.
 
The RO filter i just bought, also have a tds and ph pen, from what I have been reading dyna gro nutes have everything you need. The nutes at my disposal are dyna gro grow,bloom,magpro,and protekt. I also have floralicous, kool bloom liquid and dry and diamond nectar and calmag. But I am hoping to cut nute cost by just using DG products and maybe some kool bloom and floralicous. Thanks md maybe 50/50 mix Tapwater and RO? I am only going to veg until the 4th or 5th node,then switch to the bloom mix using 30/70 grow/bloom for the 1st week of flowering, then using the bloom. As I seen in one of homebrewers posts.
 
Whatever man. Starve your plants.

As long as you feed "cal-mag", everything will be okay. :-? If you use pure water, throw some salt over your shoulder, or someone you love will die.
 
Churchhaze believe he's just worried about seedling ppm. Seeds dont *need* nutrients for two weeks after they have breached the surface. Nature gives them a stockpile of readily useable energy. If ph is correct plain water will do the trick.


Also about splitting the tap water 50/50, that defeats the purpose of using filtration. I use a sm allboy opposed to RO because I am on city water and am just trying to get the chlorine and chloramine filtered out.


If you want to use tap water to deliver trace elements and hard metals to your plants just go 100% tap water. You can get a fish tank air pump and air stones hooked up and bubble water for minimum 24 hours. This will evaporate 99% of the chlorine and other chemicals, and your plants will still have access to the iron, calcium, magnesium, etc. found in tap.


RO is kicks dont get me wrong, but if you have good water in your area there's no need for it. If you have bad city water an RO system is the sheeeit!
 
The RO filter i just bought, also have a tds and ph pen, from what I have been reading dyna gro nutes have everything you need. The nutes at my disposal are dyna gro grow,bloom,magpro,and protekt. I also have floralicous, kool bloom liquid and dry and diamond nectar and calmag. But I am hoping to cut nute cost by just using DG products and maybe some kool bloom and floralicous. Thanks md maybe 50/50 mix Tapwater and RO? I am only going to veg until the 4th or 5th node,then switch to the bloom mix using 30/70 grow/bloom for the 1st week of flowering, then using the bloom. As I seen in one of homebrewers posts.
I have had bad results in dwc running grow nutes into flower... watch out for N tox. keep the ppm on the low side for the first couple runs because too much will kill shit and cause problems fast; not enough will just make it grow slower. i always encourage new growers to not use bud hardeners and a bunch of additives and shit. i think it's better to stick to tried and proven basics, and then once that is dialed in start experimenting with additives and other things. if you run additives while still trying to dial in and get a smooth run, you dont know if the additives are doing any good or if they are fucking you up or are you wasting money. Bennies and base nutes are all you need, possibly also a little cal/mag and tap water conditioner to remove chloramine.

dwc is more sensitive to nutes and root issues, but the nice thing is you can instantly correct problems just by mixing up a new res and making sure the setup has the basics covered.
 
It will "do the trick", but it's sub-optimal. Certain elements like calcium can only be transported through the xylem. Food and mobile element are transported on the phloem. Seeds have a store of starch, which becomes rebmoilized as sugar, but not calcium and other immobile elements.

I've never mixed a DWC solution under 600ppm ever, and I've never seen this baby burning problem everyone keeps talking about.

Why pH'ed water? The whole point of setting pH is to make the correct ions available (H2PO4-). Just using a phosphoric acid based pH down and pHing to 5.8 will ultimately lead to a high availability of H2PO4-, which is the whole point of doing that. Why not go the whole 9 yards and feed your plant? It does like food.

A lot of so called experts insist 600ppm will burn seedlings, but the biggest problem in the help section for DWC is underfeeding by far. It's from following forum advice instead of common sense and trial and error.

Churchhaze believe he's just worried about seedling ppm. Seeds dont *need* nutrients for two weeks after they have breached the surface. Nature gives them a stockpile of readily useable energy. If ph is correct plain water will do the trick.
 
We'll I transplanted them yesterday, and this morning they are still alive. I am gonna let them go a few days in the 320pmm until they get their sealegs and then bump it up to around 5 or 600ppm. I am still a lil confused about the new nutes and RO water, should I be using both mag pro and cal mag plus?
 
I'd take things slow and make baby steps if its your first time. If your using a complete line of nutrients sometimes everything needed is already there. I wouldnt use the mag pro or cal mag until you get signs its needed. If your new growth is nice and healthy your at an acceptable range.



First time around error on the side of caution and just make it through. You can fine tune the strain once you see how it grows. Keep your environmental factors correct and make gradual changes.




Church- Im not trying to argue or say you are wrong, was simply reasurring toast that he was doing just fine.

Also trying to emphasize that there's many right ways of doing things.
 
Toast, I'd recommend getting a notebook and making yourself a weekly schedule. Record your feedings, temps, growth notes, log your ph, light height from canopy, etc.

Also write down any changes and the day you did it, if things go south it can help you diagnose the problem. Ill stick around and offer advice. Church has a lot of good input you can consider as well, hope he sticks around to pass on some knowledge.
 
Looks good. If things start yellowing, curling or slowing try raising your light 3-4" :)


Things are looking good.

Are those transplants in cocoa or soil?
 
They were started in soil and then transplanted into hydroton. they are actually starting to grow already so they didn't suffer any shock.
 
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