3070's melted.

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member

• Mar 6, 2016

• #41

Well guys, as promised.

 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member

• Mar 6, 2016

• #42

it's got that fried egg look

 

p4id

Well-Known Member

• Mar 6, 2016

• #43

Looks similar to the one i had melt with a hot spot caused by dirt on the cob. Thats the same chip right ? did you say 3 burnt out ?

 

giantsfan24

Well-Known Member

• Mar 6, 2016

• #44

I'm very interested to know what caused this.

 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member

• Mar 7, 2016

• #45

skorchem said:

That is now worrying me as im still building mine slowly around my other works and I have used 8 egraphs, should I order the paste instead ?

Click to expand...

Fear no more skorchem! Although I will be switching my Tim to this thicker "blue goop" type material from Mouser, it wasn't the graphtek after all. The ideal chip lok holder has a small flange on the edge where the cob is supposed to rest snugly inside. We discovered when I tightened it down, it was on top of the cob and caused it to CRACK along the entire length of the back, concaving the LES. This is why the cob fried.

 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member

• Mar 7, 2016

• #46

I'll stick with the silver compounds .
But about the other cobs ??
& what happened some one smell smoke ??

 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member

• Mar 7, 2016

• #47

Fastslappy said:

I'll stick with the silver compounds .
But about the other cobs ??
& what happened some one smell smoke ??

Click to expand...

2 of them fried. The other had a cracked on the LES but is still working fine. We do however, have a replacement should it fail in the future. And no, no smoke. Just no light all the sudden upon checking things out like we do frequently.

 

Humanrob

Well-Known Member

• Mar 7, 2016

• #48

just curious, these were wired in series? and when one failed the others still worked? or did the all three connected to that driver go out?

 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member

• Mar 7, 2016

• #49

Humanrob said:

just curious, these were wired in series? and when one failed the others still worked? or did the all three connected to that driver go out?

Click to expand...

Still worked. Yes in series.

 

atomicData

Well-Known Member

• Apr 8, 2016

• #50

Airwalker16 said:

I will be switching my Tim to this thicker "blue goop" type material from Mouser,

Click to expand...

Hi! Sorry so late to the party. I'm just shopping around for a TIM for my first 3590 build and I am wondering what this "blue goop" material is that you went with. Right now, my first choice of TIM is the Sur-Seal thermal pad they have at PLC, but they don't ship internationally. Having a low-fuss, effective TIM would be ideal, wouldn't it?

 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member

• Apr 8, 2016

• #51

Yes, but any type will do man. You could use cutter.com.au they have graphtek but it's very thin graphite and hard to apply. I actually never switched it to the blue TIM. I personally am still using graphtek.

 

atomicData

Well-Known Member

• Apr 9, 2016

• #52

Cool, @Airwalker16, I appreciate the reply.

Thanks!

 

Leandrobcool

Active Member

• Apr 6, 2017

• #53

How can i remove an thermal pad from cob?

 

G

goofy81

Well-Known Member

• Apr 6, 2017

• #54

I'm using double sided thermal tape on my cobs. Luckily nothing had happened but feeling uneasy now after this lol

 

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member

• Apr 6, 2017

• #55

I have posted this before. The pads are garbage and I wouldn't use anything but arctic silver 5 unless you have a way to check temps. I had a CLU058 hit >270*c during thermal testing. But it still works, slightly domed though.