1st Grow - Hubbabubbasmelloscope in DWC & Water Farm

Wisher2

Well-Known Member
@cjsbabygirl313
so you are correct their is a def in Ca
but this is not the problem
lack of Ca wouldnt stop your plant from taking in other elements
now that you have switched over to CNS there should be no def of Ca or anything else
when growing in water culture there is no such thing is def if each element is there and available

company's like botanicare base their nutrients off of RO/Dist water not tap
As well CNS was actually created with the coco grower in mind whom needs an abundance of Ca as the coco holds onto Ca from the plant

so with that being said
there is plenty of Ca in your feed

if the plant isnt getting Ca then there is something deeper going on
as it is your plant isnt even eating at all
your plant stalled out
these are the pitfalls to DWC

this is one reason why I grow in coco....there is a buffer that allows the grower a slight advantage of slacking off

with DWC if you arent precise...your plant fails

now IMO
you either have root rot/pythium or crown rot
and if Ca isnt being taken up...there is a lockout.....being that the Ca is there but unavailable do to ph or an overabundance of something else
but in your case the plant simply stopped eating

so I would set my water level 1/4-1/2" below the net pot
ad your +life and keep checking on it
there wont be any harm in adding Camg
the problem is your plant isnt eating

that would be like putting 3 glasses of wine in front of you when you havnt even touched your meal or the wine and you have already left the table

but before you add CaMg
I would add more nutrients
up the feed to say 10ml per gal

but again....your plant isnt eating

also how are you with water?
your local store....are you sure dosnt have a water dispenser
I know there is a Walmart somewhere near you
it is just so much cheaper for RO water in 5gal than 1gal
that shit gets pricey
 
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Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
I agree to many people try to add shit instead of mastering their base formula then adding to it for optimum preformance.

I used to love coco and i did do several runs using cns 17 no probs
And been in water in one form or another cor over the last 12 years

I see so many ill advised nutrient related stuff on riu

First additive noobs grab is cal mag they dont know what it is or what it does but they just know they need it :)

Not necessarily aimed at anyone here just putting it out there :)
 

cjsbabygirl313

Well-Known Member
@cjsbabygirl313
so you are correct their is andef in Ca
but this is not the problem
lack of Ca wouldnt stop your plant from taking in other elements
now that you have switched over to CNS there should be no def of Ca or anything else
when growing in water culture there is no suck thing is def if each element is there and available

company's like botanicare base their nutrients off of RO/Dist water not tap
As well CNS was actually created with the coco grower in mind whom needs an abundance of Ca as the coco holds onto Ca from the plant

so with that being said
there is plenty of Ca in your feed

if the plant isnt getting Ca then there is something deeper going on
as it is your plant isnt even eating at all
your plant stalled out
these are the pitfalls to DWC

this isnone reason why I grow in coco....there is a buffer that allows the grower a slight advantage of slacking off

with DWC if you arent precise...your plant fail

now IMO
you either have root rot/pythium or crown rot
and if Ca isnt being taken up...there is a lockout.....being that the Ca is there but unavailable do to ph or an overabundance of something else
but in your case the plant simply stopped eating

so I would set my water level 1/4-1/2" below the net pot
ad your +life and keep checking on it
there wont be any harm in adding Camg
the problem is your plant isnt eating

that would be like putting 3 glasses of wine in front of you when you havnt even touched your meal or the wine and you have already left the table

but before you add CaMg
I would add more nutrients
up the feed to say 10ml per gal

but again....your plant isnt eating

also how are you with water?
your local store....are you sure dosnt have a water dispenser
I know there is a Walmart somewhere near you
it is just so much cheaper for RO water in 5gal than 1gal
that shit gets pricey
@Wisher2 ... Water supply is low, I need to make some ... closest walmart is 45 miles away, and does not have a water dispensory that I know of ... cant get there anyway today because we’re in the middle of a snowstorm.
 

cjsbabygirl313

Well-Known Member
Throw an update pic of whats goin on plants plus roots
Pg 36 has the pics from yesterday, and pg 35 from the day before.

Think with all the snow we’re getting I’ll just grab some clean snow, melt it and see how it tests out with ph and ppm’s - who knows, it may save me a lot of effort from distilling water! LOL
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
K just my 2

Your humidty is low if you cant raise the humidity then you have to tune yoyr feed to accommodate this.

When dry feed less because your plants are trying to burn the water up but they concentrate the nutes in them as they do this.

So compensate by dropping your feed level in half for 3 days to check for improvement (days)
Set your ph at 5.8 and let it drift up to 6.3

Whats the temps i couldnt see them?


As to your root issue

Are they getting slimey? Stinky?
Do you have access to hydrogaurd?

You can go sterile if you wish but the only time in the last twn years ive hadd a root issue is cause i tried running sterile with bleach .

Granted it could have been my fault but i never tried it again :)

If you think you got root rot id definitely drop the ppm because that can be a factor in it too

They still looked ok to me but they can turn south fast
 

cjsbabygirl313

Well-Known Member
K just my 2

Your humidty is low if you cant raise the humidity then you have to tune yoyr feed to accommodate this.

When dry feed less because your plants are trying to burn the water up but they concentrate the nutes in them as they do this.

So compensate by dropping your feed level in half for 3 days to check for improvement (days)
Set your ph at 5.8 and let it drift up to 6.3

Whats the temps i couldnt see them?


As to your root issue

Are they getting slimey? Stinky?
Do you have access to hydrogaurd?

You can go sterile if you wish but the only time in the last twn years ive hadd a root issue is cause i tried running sterile with bleach .

Granted it could have been my fault but i never tried it again :)

If you think you got root rot id definitely drop the ppm because that can be a factor in it too

They still looked ok to me but they can turn south fast
@Homie Da Clown and @Wisher2 had me switch to CNS17 for nutes and +life for the roots ...
And so far my #2 gal is loving it, though it was advised for me to up the *+life some more
 

Wisher2

Well-Known Member
if you are gonna continue to grow
at all
IMO I would honestly consider a small under sink RO system
to me this is necessary.....*not for everyone*
but for those whom have shit Tap....yea there are those that have 50-150ppm tap water
but for all others...IMO this is def necessary
 

cjsbabygirl313

Well-Known Member
if you are gonna continue to grow
at all
IMO I would honestly consider a small under sink RO system
to me this is necessary.....*not for everyone*
but for those whom have shit Tap....yea there are those that hape 50-150ppm tap water
but for all others...INO this is def necessary
I know man ... i know, its on the list, but hubby says we wait till we re-do the kitchen so it can be incorporated correctly and he wants a big one which will cost more
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Whats your tap like

As long as your under 250ppm you should be ok
If higher you can use a hard water formula .

I havent grown with cns 17 in over 10 years lol
But im unfamiliar with +life sounds like a benifical of some sort.

I alwasy thought cns was geared to coco but i remeber mixing up rezes of that goopy stuff lol
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Adding a small amount of cal mag won’t hurt and will eliminate any doubt that it’s not calmag which I’m thinking like everyone else it’s not but it won’t hurt.
if you are gonna continue to grow
at all
IMO I would honestly consider a small under sink RO system
to me this is necessary.....*not for everyone*
but for those whom have shit Tap....yea there are those that have 50-150ppm tap water
but for all others...IMO this is def necessary
I have 200-250 and do fine but I agree it would be simpler to use RO if I could. What is the difference between distilled and RO in this instance? Do you think that may be an issue?
K just my 2

Your humidty is low if you cant raise the humidity then you have to tune yoyr feed to accommodate this.

When dry feed less because your plants are trying to burn the water up but they concentrate the nutes in them as they do this.

So compensate by dropping your feed level in half for 3 days to check for improvement (days)
Set your ph at 5.8 and let it drift up to 6.3

Whats the temps i couldnt see them?


As to your root issue

Are they getting slimey? Stinky?
Do you have access to hydrogaurd?

You can go sterile if you wish but the only time in the last twn years ive hadd a root issue is cause i tried running sterile with bleach .

Granted it could have been my fault but i never tried it again :)

If you think you got root rot id definitely drop the ppm because that can be a factor in it too

They still looked ok to me but they can turn south fast
So you think the roots look good? Honestly Im sure that’s the whole issue here :(. Overwatered at an early stage then the DWC plant didn’t get to recover as the roots were submerged and until the water level drops, still are. It’s great that a few more are adding some thoughts to this issue as it’s a tough one lol.
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
@Homie Da Clown and @Wisher2 had me switch to CNS17 for nutes and +life for the roots ...
And so far my #2 gal is loving it, though it was advised for me to up the *+life some more
What ever nutes you use you have to tune it to the environment they are in .

My suggestion still stands lessen the feed till you see either improvement or deficiency will take about 3 days in dwc to see a difference:)
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Adding a small amount of cal mag won’t hurt and will eliminate any doubt that it’s not calmag which I’m thinking like everyone else it’s not but it won’t hurt.

I have 200-250 and do fine but I agree it would be simpler to use RO if I could. What is the difference between distilled and RO in this instance? Do you think that may be an issue?

So you think the roots look good? Honestly Im sure that’s the whole issue here :(. Overwatered at an early stage then the DWC plant didn’t get to recover as the roots were submerged and until the water level drops, still are. It’s great that a few more are adding some thoughts to this issue as it’s a tough one lol.
True it very well could be a root issue

But if it is what caused it? Imo with humidity that low the plant burnt itself up trying to pump the water it needed but the fertilizers build up in it.
Then when weakend it can be attakex by pythium

Diseases rarely affect healthy plants


Basically when i attack a problem i figure its not going to get better by throwing stuff at it first.

If anything i take away till i know whats up.

When i get a problems the first place i check is the roots, then temp and humidity and ph,
Then what im feeding . Usually in that order :)

Not saying you are wrong at all by adding calmag but when a problem is present that presents itself like excess to me i try to lessen first .

It all just takes time as well i cant tell you how many noobs i watched put their plant in the ground because they expect an instant change lol
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Adding a small amount of cal mag won’t hurt and will eliminate any doubt that it’s not calmag which I’m thinking like everyone else it’s not but it won’t hurt.

I have 200-250 and do fine but I agree it would be simpler to use RO if I could. What is the difference between distilled and RO in this instance? Do you think that may be an issue?

So you think the roots look good? Honestly Im sure that’s the whole issue here :(. Overwatered at an early stage then the DWC plant didn’t get to recover as the roots were submerged and until the water level drops, still are. It’s great that a few more are adding some thoughts to this issue as it’s a tough one lol.
And i didnt say good ;)
 

cjsbabygirl313

Well-Known Member
@Cold$moke - i have absolutely wretched well water ... high in ppms, and it leaves anything with an orange slimy coating after it being in anything for a week. My tent temps are usually around 77-79, res temps 68-71 ... humidity at about 40% when the warm steam vaporizer is on and about 28% when its not on.

As far as the problems I’ve been having with my #1 in the DWC, its been going on for weeks now and has been getting worse. The roots and plant and holding their own, but they’re not getting bigger or multiplying while those rusty spots on the leaves HAVE been multiplying. Hence why the guys put me on CNS17 and +life (yes, its a beneficial bacteria). And I’m only saying its a calcium issue because it stated out fine for the most part when I was using the calmag supplement and it’s been getting worse and expanding more rapidly - plus the pics and list of symptoms match mine so damned well. This morning I dosed her with some calmag and got rid of the leaves that had issues so I can SEE if it’s continuing or getting better. My plant will either be ok with it or it wont ... if it is, then my suspicions and my reading of her were right and I’ve learned something; if not she’ll let me know and I still will have learned something. Afterall, I wont be the first person to have ever lost a pot plant *lol*.

And again, my #2 in the WaterFarm it has improved DRAMATICALLY (just go back and look at the first couple pages of this thread and you’ll see what I mean). I’m not too worried yet about the roots in this one again because there is no smell, its not slimy ... i just noticed some discoloration in passing which is why the guys suggested I up the +life some - which I did this morning.
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
So you have rusty water :) wont need any iron lol jk

Again if your ppm is below 250 you "should" be fine.

I still stand by your humidity being the culprit and a reduced feed is needed until your root zone can fatten up

Dont care what you feed it :)

Doesnt change the fact if its got that low of humidty your vpd is going to be way off and you will have to compensate by tweaking your feed

I still say take the feed down for 3 days

What will it hurt? Nothing
Deficiency is always more easy to fix then toxicity .

Good luck whichever you do its nice to have a grow room with so much snow still out lol

Lots of good videos by just 4 growers that breaks vpd down very easy
 

cjsbabygirl313

Well-Known Member
So you have rusty water :) wont need any iron lol jk

Again if your ppm is below 250 you "should" be fine.

I still stand by your humidity being the culprit and a reduced feed is beeded until your root zone can fatten up

Dont care what you feed it :)

Doesnt change the fact if its got that low of humidty your vpd is going to be way off and you will have to compensate by tweaking your feed

I still say take the feed down for 3 days

What will it hurt? Nothing
Deficiency is always more easy to fix then toxicity .

Good luck whichever you do its nice to have a grow room with so much snow still out lol
Hating the snow - I need spring ... sunshine, warm air, etc ... its SPRING damnit!
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
What does rusty spots have to do with what nutes you use?

Just trying to put myself in the right mindset here

When you have a persisting problem work backwards and say what have i been doing constantly to piss them off. ;) what are the constants
Temps, Humidty , air exchange, nutrients lights dark time ect ect
 
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