Ap0c0leS
Active Member
Yes there are smaller tubes inside the big PVC tubes and there are the red spray nozels makeing this an aeroponic system. It uses a submersable pump in the res to pump with a CAP programable timer 1 min on 5 off i believe
1oz+ per plant SoG, doable?
- Thread starter QuentinQuark
- Start date
Yes there are smaller tubes inside the big PVC tubes and there are the red spray nozels makeing this an aeroponic system. It uses a submersable pump in the res to pump with a CAP programable timer 1 min on 5 off i believe
Ap0c0leS
Active Member
The small tubes run down the side of the pipe and there are misters becide every plant site.
Thanks!
greenyield
Well-Known Member
do you have any pics of the pipe with the misters?
how did you attach the pipe with the misters inside the larger pipe, what i mean is how is it held in place?
if for example you had this system in your bedroom,what kind of noise would you get at night? low,medium or loud?
fatman7574
New Member
You might want to watch eBay for a plastic solenoid valve. Using it would allow the pump to run continously. Small pumps like usually are used by manafacturers and most growers for aero systems are made for continous duty. They have very much shortened life spans when repeatedl turned on and off. The solenoid would be set so that when it turned on the water would just run back to the reservoir instead of to the misters. This happens because the water takes the path of least resistance. A unconstricted valves large return pipe supplies less resistance than the nozzles. Before you even use the pump buy a few 200 micron bags to catch particulates and roots and such so your nozzles do not get clogged. http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m38.l1313&_nkw=200+micron+bags&_sacat=See-All-Categories
chronichaze
Well-Known Member
How many square feet is your grow room and how many plants does it contain and what kind of light are you using?
RobMar
Active Member
gottagrow69
Well-Known Member
Is it possible for me to get a pound ? I am have 5 thc bombs and 2 sshaze i am using almost 400wtts of cfl for veg and 400hps for flower and i can veg for two months?no co2 just good soil and nutes and really good temps
fatman7574
New Member
An ounce of what per plant. Your only providing 25 watts per foot of light. How many weeks under that 25 watts per square foot are you budding. Why are you even bothering to use CO2 with low PAR lighting? Your providing over 2.5 square foot of space per plant meaning longer vegging would be the noramal cousre with all that square footage per plant. However with the light spread over such alarge distance the lower levels of the plant would not produce much. Something just doesn,t add up. What are the typical plant heights at harvest? Never ever seen a 750 watt HID light. I assume they are Metal Halide.
RobMar
Active Member
an ounce of sawdust per plant......wtf do you think i'm talking about......weed!!
I was asked how big my grow room was, not how big my grow area was. That is probably why it doesn't add up. But then again, does it really have to add up? My system works. My plants are between 30-36" when harvested.
Why bother using co2? because it works.
you should never assume....my bulbs are HPS
P.S. Thanks for the lesson but I got it under control chief
fatman7574
New Member
Caustic little indian be you. You make be seem nice and I am not known for being Mr. Congeniality. So how many weeks did the little indian bud out his wacky weed plants?
RobMar
Active Member
long enough to get my +oz per plant.
QuentinQuark
Well-Known Member
Guys, the thread is about clone-fed SoG, 4 plants per sq ft, zero veg time.
The consensus seems to be that it is possible with some veg time, not with zero veg time.
My question is, would veg time increase your yield even if you are trimming everything but the top cola, and if so why? Is it because of the taller height? Is it because there is a build-up of vegging nutes? Better developed roots? Thicker stem? Because if the only reason some veg time increases yields is because of more bud sites, then there's no point since everything but the top cola is getting trimmed.
The consensus seems to be that it is possible with some veg time, not with zero veg time.
My question is, would veg time increase your yield even if you are trimming everything but the top cola, and if so why? Is it because of the taller height? Is it because there is a build-up of vegging nutes? Better developed roots? Thicker stem? Because if the only reason some veg time increases yields is because of more bud sites, then there's no point since everything but the top cola is getting trimmed.
Alaric
Well-Known Member
Hey guys,
Treeth,
You made and interesting point about filling the "light zone" with only the most producing part. I believe a plant increases exponentionaly in mass the larger it becomes-----and bud size is propotional to stem size ------so what is the "sweet spot" for production in terms of plants at what size? pruned how? and spacing within the light zone?
Alaric
Treeth,
You made and interesting point about filling the "light zone" with only the most producing part. I believe a plant increases exponentionaly in mass the larger it becomes-----and bud size is propotional to stem size ------so what is the "sweet spot" for production in terms of plants at what size? pruned how? and spacing within the light zone?
Alaric
synonymous
Active Member
All of those are actually good reasons. Mainly, the roots, stem and height though. Bud sites have nothing to do with it really, since the main cola eventually becomes one bud essentially.
fatman7574
New Member
The matter of internodal spacing matters a great deal. Close internodes make for fatter, heavier buds and longer cola buds in general. The issue with non vegging is an issue of few things. Is the plant that the clones come from old enough to bud (different strains have different requirements), does it have an adequate enough leaf area to support adequate respiration/tranpiration and can it carry out enough photosyntheis based on leaf area and does it have enough roots to support water and nutrient needs of the photosynthesis. Some auto cycle crosses really do not give the latitude to veg a little longer as they will bud with 16/8 lights. Cloning can circumvent most of these problems with the exception of root area and leaf area. In general though a plant that is left in the veg lighting long enough to build a bit more roots ends up performing better. Is it always necessary? Of course not. There are quite a few crosses that do quite well with a cut back to 12/12 lighting after developing only a few roots. However, even they do better usually with another week or more development under 16/8 lighting. I grow only SOS other than mother plants. My clones grow vegetaively for several weeks as I cut clones just before 12/12 change over meaning the new clones have the time to grow as I use a seperate clone/veg area. I have tried instaed doing shorter vegiing by cy utting later from mother plants but my yields for the same total kWh used was nearly always less for total kWh used and the turn around was no faster because the budding time was not significatly less.
QuentinQuark
Well-Known Member
Makes sense. So how to you get tight internode spacing during flowering? The stretch that happens during the first weeks of flowering is where you would need to minimize internode spacing... perhaps MH bulb during first two weeks of flowering?
Sigh. It always is, isn't it
Yes, I'm talking mature moms here.
No idea. My clones usually have one or two internodes, and I keep the fan leaf on with it. Wouldn't the stretch that occurs during the first few weeks of flowering basically nullify this? I mean the plants are completely transformed after the stretch.
How would you determine this? I mean, if the clone roots after let's say a week, and then start showing new growth, then isn't it safe to assume that the roots are sufficient to support that new growth? Otherwise it wouldn't start growing would it? Unless by moving from cloning under fluorescents to flowering under 1000w HPS greatly increases photosynthesis, which throws things out of balance? If that is the case, I can see how some veg time in the flowering area would improve things.
Lol ya I'm not trying to do clone-fed SoG with autoflower strains !
Not sure what you mean there... can you elaborate?
No doubt, but I'm just wondering whether it's possible to get 1oz+ main cola per plant without vegging.
So you veg your clones, then take a bunch of cuttings off them before flipping over to 12/12. You then root those cuttings, and veg them until the plants in flower are harvested, load up the flowering area again, and repeat? If so, that's a LONG veg time! I'm assuming you keep the sites in your cloner pretty close together, how do you stop the roots from knitting together? When you take the cuttings, do you take them off the top or the bottom? I can see this working if you take them off the top, but if you take them off the bottom that would be some badass stretch!!
fatman7574
New Member
The clone cuttings are kept in a refrigerator for 15 to 20 days prior to vegging except for two or three placed in rock wool in hydroton within pots for back up.
IMHO my closer internodal spacing is a result of a combination of increased actinic blue lighting through a comination of 6500K halide, HPS at 50:50 ratio with additioan supplementation from long Tube CFC actinics. Add to this a fairly high pressure low micron aero system. At present only 25 psi with intermittant spray. It has reduced my internodal spaco ing to approximattely 1/3 of the spacing of continous low pressure aero. Other than the better environment for the roots producing some hair roots other than just tap and secondary the plants just received the climate control (temperature/humidity) and CO2. The lighting is also all low wattage HID (250 watt) that is water cooled with reflectors made of Anolux Miro that alledges a reflectivity of over 95%. The Clones typically have at least 5 internodal spacing by the time they are at 12/12. They cutting are at the third internodal and the lower are removed.
I get at least three times the internodal spaces now that I received with just HPS/Halide and low pressure Aero misters. The misters are also about 1/5 the volume of spray as previous nozzles so the plants and cyuttings are all reciving about 1/30 of the misting they were previously receiving with continous mist.
I have used many auto strains up here due to years of green house grows. I found refrigeration of cuttings suspends them quite well so that I still have adequate time for some vegging.
Oh, it might sound cruel or counter productive, but when I am rooting out cuttings and have them in early vegetative growth I pick up the net pots almost completely or even completely out of the tube holes and spin the pots at least 270 degress at least once every 48 to 72 hours so as to keep the root growth tight and not as intertwined with its neighbors. It also keeps the roots heavier near the pot where there is more hair root development anyway. Yes I occasionally lose some roots and occasionally even lose more when transferring the pots to the budding tubes.
IMHO my closer internodal spacing is a result of a combination of increased actinic blue lighting through a comination of 6500K halide, HPS at 50:50 ratio with additioan supplementation from long Tube CFC actinics. Add to this a fairly high pressure low micron aero system. At present only 25 psi with intermittant spray. It has reduced my internodal spaco ing to approximattely 1/3 of the spacing of continous low pressure aero. Other than the better environment for the roots producing some hair roots other than just tap and secondary the plants just received the climate control (temperature/humidity) and CO2. The lighting is also all low wattage HID (250 watt) that is water cooled with reflectors made of Anolux Miro that alledges a reflectivity of over 95%. The Clones typically have at least 5 internodal spacing by the time they are at 12/12. They cutting are at the third internodal and the lower are removed.
I get at least three times the internodal spaces now that I received with just HPS/Halide and low pressure Aero misters. The misters are also about 1/5 the volume of spray as previous nozzles so the plants and cyuttings are all reciving about 1/30 of the misting they were previously receiving with continous mist.
I have used many auto strains up here due to years of green house grows. I found refrigeration of cuttings suspends them quite well so that I still have adequate time for some vegging.
Oh, it might sound cruel or counter productive, but when I am rooting out cuttings and have them in early vegetative growth I pick up the net pots almost completely or even completely out of the tube holes and spin the pots at least 270 degress at least once every 48 to 72 hours so as to keep the root growth tight and not as intertwined with its neighbors. It also keeps the roots heavier near the pot where there is more hair root development anyway. Yes I occasionally lose some roots and occasionally even lose more when transferring the pots to the budding tubes.