1000w Hps in a 4x4 Tent

PurpleONE

Member
Get a 600W with a 4' light mover...js. Light movers are 125 bucks and with the light slowly moving it might come out working better then a stationary 1000W light.
I have my light clipped onto two long metal poles on the top of the tent. I can slide my light backwards and forwards along the poles. Would this work the same as a light mover? I only have a t-5 6-bulb hood, I don't know how much heavier an hid light would be
 

gostealth

Member
Thanks to all post's even bad because that's how we learn so any thoughts is great. the spot i have to work with is exactly the size of the tent so and no spots to vent out or in i drilled through some spots and made a in so i could get fresh air but i did move my carbon filter to the outside of the tent to reduce noise because its not only the smell lol you can notice. also i put a bunch of insulation on top and around the tent and ducting to reduce noise, huge difference. im well into veg and will post some pics soon

P.S. what if i just turned the inline fans up/down instead of vertical so reduce bends?
 

tremend00oo

Active Member
my friend had a heat issue in his 4x8 tent with 2 x 1000w ,, he insulated the ducting and bought these heat shielding covers for the reflectors and it helped alot..
 

MEGAyielder420

Active Member
Your girls would love that 1k in the 4 x 4 no prob I have a 4 x 4 I have ran a 1k in aircooled with no ac stays in the low 80's. I am currently running a 5 x 10 now with 2 x 1k HPS and a 600 hps and its all good and I also have a 10 x 10 I just set up with 5 x 1000 HPS. Juts make sure to have some good air flow and exhaust. An ac would be good if you can put one in there but if not you should be ok just with the air cooled hood. I run my 5 x 10 with a 9000 BTU LG and it stays around the mid 70's while light are running.
 

Flo Grow

Well-Known Member
Smart move wrapping the ducting.
I failed to mention that my CanFan and ducting is covered in reflective insulated pipe wrap from Lowes.
The roll is 1ft x 10ft and has a "R" rating with an adhesive backing.
Before the pipe wrap my ducting was radiating temps in the mid-90's.
Now it radiates at 78F.
Human skin is around 88F.
I use a digital infrared thermometer (pic).
 

DemonTrich

Well-Known Member
get it cooled. I run a 6" cool tube w/XL hood, with a 6" 440 cfm fan at 100%, a 420 cfm intake at 80%, a 420 cfm exhaust at 100%, 18" fan blowing across my cool tube XL hood, and 3 clip fans. also tapped into my basement ac and routed a 6" duct to my intake fan sucking in. lights on w/ac is 77-79* :)
 

Pinworm

Well-Known Member
Yerp. I was thinking about pulling in some AC'd air myself. I was thinking about running 6' ducting across the entire length of the back wall and poking holes all over so plants get the air they need.
 

29menace

Well-Known Member
1000w will give more yield and more heat and cost more,,, 600w is decent for running cost ,won't be as hot and will still yield good. I get anything from 8-10oz dry from a single plant in a 4x4 under a single 600w hps. (Hydro)
 
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