100 gallon smart pots indoors

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
Yea it's definitely something I'm doing for the long term benefits. I think my biggest challenge will be when I first transplant into the beds and the roots haven't filled out yet. Keeping the soil medium moist enough to maintain life but not over watering the plants.
I reckon a good dry spell after a initial watering in, after transplant, then hit em with an AACT to kick-start the little fella's back into action. I've had many plants look dead from wilt, that've come round after a watering, I'm sure you know they're very hardy(like preaching to the choir, I know), make them roots stretch out.
 
Last edited:

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
I reckon a good dry spell after a good watering in, after transplant, then hit em with an AACT to kick-start the little fella's back into action. I've had many plants look dead from wilt, that've come round after a watering, I'm sure you know they're very hardy(like preaching to the choir, I know), make them roots stretch out.
Even if it's something I already know I appreciate the reassurance! Stops me from doubting myself lol. That's definitely the approach I'm gonna take. I want to get those roots out fast!
 

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
unless you got a hose in your basement i feel bad for you, thats gonna be a lot of water to haul, you might want to rig up some type of auto watering system.
I got a hose hooked directly to my water res that's always got an air pump running in it. I had to add an additional res since I'll be going through more water but fortunately hauling water won't be an issue.
 

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
Sooo still waiting for my root balls to get big enough to throw them in the big bad boys...I imagine by the end of this week, start of next weekish they will be where I want them to be to transplant. Just wanted to share an idea I had for turning my mulch into a fresh worm casting factory.

@greasemonkeymann Im definitely interested in your opinion as always.. along with anybody with any no til experience that wants to chime in...

I've mentioned before that I take the partially (but mostly) composted leaves, rabbit manure, and used coffee grounds for my worm bedding. The worms love it even if I don't add my food scraps, they just go into extra freak out eat mode when I do...so it got me thinking...

The whole point of me doing these big pots is to simulate having a raised bed outdoors, so I want all the perks...live worms in my bed being one of them. And when I mix some fresh castings into the beds, ill have them there. And ive had some hang out in my ten gallon pots all the way to the end...so Im thinking theyll love the 100 gallon pots even more. But I want them to thrive!

So here's my plan, Im gonna mulch the top of the beds with the partially composted materials I usually use for worm bedding. Throw a plentiful handful of worms and worm babies into that layer...and then mulch on top of that with a layer of straw. The straw should keep them in the dark and hanging out in the compost layer, along with upping my carbon ratio and helping me out with moisture control.

So the hope is along with me getting a bit of nutes and beneficials that come from top dressing with my partially composted bedding (it is filled with rabbit manure), the worms will also munch on it and break it down throughtout the grow. So instead of me top dressing with fresh castings every few weeks, I'll just have the worms doing it on their own.

I have concerns about fungus gnats tho...i know they're gonna thrive under that straw. Im curious to know if my typical methods for dealing with them would create adverse effects for my worm population.
 

calliandra

Well-Known Member
Ah, what a lovely plan!
I've begun thinking in that direction before, but back then my closet, my pots, and my knowledge were too small haha

I think that will work out very well!
By allowing composting to take place directly on the soil, I suspect you will be getting more out of it than composting on the side and then adding that. Because there will still be more unprocessed organic matter left, from which the plants can pull complex building blocks and directly integrate them into their plant structures = tapping in to the cycle of living matter, in addition to the usual culturing of microorgasmic multitudes :bigjoint:haha

I think the tricky part will be not to have that half-compost-mix get too hot.
I can imagine premixing components that add up to a nice C:N ratio so there will be no hot spots in the compost (that in turn could then be frying the roots, or creating temporary pockets of acid, anaerobic-leaning conditions, all stuff we don't want to happen in any big way in there). So yeah, the "heavy composting" would have to be done before if very hot ingedients are to be added.

But hey, that's as simple as throwing the mix in a bucket, getting it perfect humidity-wise, and leaving it for a few days on the side just in case?
Actually, I've already begun doing that for my wormbin, since I noticed it heating up (and the worms getting pissy) after adding a few cannaleaves on top of a feeding. Sheez, it wasn't even that many! So now I mix them and similar stuff under my cardboard/woodchip/leaf bedding before adding them in.

Also, I think that with this nice wormbedding-amendment-mulch layer in place, you could still add fresh materials (N? enzymes? hormones?...) if they're chopped up small.
Herwig Pommeresche (the Norwegian guy who has very successfully been implementing the prinicple of the cycling of living matter for decades) mainly "soilifies" veggie scraps & garden waste in volume while there's nothing growing in the soil. So in autumn after harvest, he brings out large amounts of these scraps onto his garden beds, which get covered with thick mulch. By springtime, they have been digested. Then he plants.
Whilst the crops are growing, he only gives them those protoplasma smoothies (just kitchen scraps/garden wastes blended with water) once a week, poured straight onto the soil/mulch (on indoor plants, he even filters out the plant matter and only gives them the juice, and I think that's fungus gnat prevention right there).
So what I see going on there, that may be useful for keeping the "integrated wormfarm no-tills" balanced, is the physical size of fresh plant matter additions as a factor in keeping a balance whilst still amending.

I totally hear you regarding the fungus gnats.
As opposed to fruit flies which are manageable, it seems where there's decomposing stuff, we will have them inevitably.
I think that in the end we need to follow nature's principles there too, by expanding the ecosystem to include more competitive eaters and (gnat) predators. Which you can experiment with if you have a room :) Oh and possibly, companion plants. A nice border of drosera capensis, anyone? Your rosemary, I think it was?, sat as plants in there...

I've seen all sorts of crazy insects in grow rooms, sadly back then I was so busy getting my stuff going I didn't pay attention to the what and why of them. Also, I get the feeling that to get a truly self-sustaining system, just adding this or that single bug isn't going to do it, we need to add a whole network of "who eats who's" and "who helps whom's" to get a stable, self-regulating system...

And that's where I find it gets daunting.
When I observe my garden outside, there are many critters that wander through it whilst foraging... flying, crawling, and burrowing insects, birds!, mice, hedgehogs... and all of them do their part in managing the garden, possibly contributing indirectly towards pest management. A closed space like a grow room won't allow for "migratory" foragers like that.
So that's where IMO the most experimental part will be: to build a concsiously reductionistic, artifical ecosystem that nevertheless includes all the organisms needed directly and indirectly to keep the fungus gnats in check.
FUN STUFF!!!!! :bigjoint:
 
Last edited:

NaturalFarmer

Well-Known Member
I am trying using rice hull instead of straw on my plants in veg right now and it seems like the four inch layer of it would keep fungus gnats away very well from both directions. My companion plant seedlings have started to come through the layer of hull now and it seems to dry even quicker than sand.

I love this stuff. This is the organic one I get, but I would like to start growing my own rice in a few years, so we will see where that goes. Many places around the world this stuff is cheaper than dirt.

http://www.riceland.com/pages/rice-hull-products/

When I got root aphids in the past, they looked like they were eating my straw so I wanted to try something different. They may have just been on the straw hanging out though. Creepy fuckers
 
Last edited:

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Sooo still waiting for my root balls to get big enough to throw them in the big bad boys...I imagine by the end of this week, start of next weekish they will be where I want them to be to transplant. Just wanted to share an idea I had for turning my mulch into a fresh worm casting factory.

@greasemonkeymann Im definitely interested in your opinion as always.. along with anybody with any no til experience that wants to chime in...

I've mentioned before that I take the partially (but mostly) composted leaves, rabbit manure, and used coffee grounds for my worm bedding. The worms love it even if I don't add my food scraps, they just go into extra freak out eat mode when I do...so it got me thinking...

The whole point of me doing these big pots is to simulate having a raised bed outdoors, so I want all the perks...live worms in my bed being one of them. And when I mix some fresh castings into the beds, ill have them there. And ive had some hang out in my ten gallon pots all the way to the end...so Im thinking theyll love the 100 gallon pots even more. But I want them to thrive!

So here's my plan, Im gonna mulch the top of the beds with the partially composted materials I usually use for worm bedding. Throw a plentiful handful of worms and worm babies into that layer...and then mulch on top of that with a layer of straw. The straw should keep them in the dark and hanging out in the compost layer, along with upping my carbon ratio and helping me out with moisture control.

So the hope is along with me getting a bit of nutes and beneficials that come from top dressing with my partially composted bedding (it is filled with rabbit manure), the worms will also munch on it and break it down throughtout the grow. So instead of me top dressing with fresh castings every few weeks, I'll just have the worms doing it on their own.

I have concerns about fungus gnats tho...i know they're gonna thrive under that straw. Im curious to know if my typical methods for dealing with them would create adverse effects for my worm population.
whats up my man
So the ONLY concern i'd have with that is that the composting will sequester some nitrogen out of there, also I've seen issues with compost that is too close to the stem, when all that composting happens there quite a bit going on in there, and I've seen the main stem actually have damage from the compost being too close, same thing with making compost piles next to a tree, same way a compost pile eats through wood. You'd probably be ok, considering cannabis' lifespan is usually less than 150 days anyways
another thing is you may want to see if you can capture some native earthworms in there, those do WAY better jobs at aeration, they just tunnel up and down, whereas the reds just hang near the top and eat stuff
right before a storm put out a tarp and they'll be under it after a day or two
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
This is awesome, I've been thinking of heavily of something similar for awhile now. Plan so far is to stuff it in a 4.5' x4.5' tent, on a 4" plastic pallet so it has ventilation all around. The tent would be setup on a plywood base that I'll shim so all the runoff goes to one corner for pumping. I was thinking of just sog'n it with rooted clones under a net originally, but I'm thinking a half dozen big ones should do. Throw a bunch of drippers in there, set a timer, hook it up to some water and be able to go places and do stuff next summer. I'm planning on trying it over the summer, hopefully, it should deal with heat better than hydro.
 

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
whats up my man
So the ONLY concern i'd have with that is that the composting will sequester some nitrogen out of there, also I've seen issues with compost that is too close to the stem, when all that composting happens there quite a bit going on in there, and I've seen the main stem actually have damage from the compost being too close, same thing with making compost piles next to a tree, same way a compost pile eats through wood. You'd probably be ok, considering cannabis' lifespan is usually less than 150 days anyways
another thing is you may want to see if you can capture some native earthworms in there, those do WAY better jobs at aeration, they just tunnel up and down, whereas the reds just hang near the top and eat stuff
right before a storm put out a tarp and they'll be under it after a day or two
The compost I'm mulching with is no longer hot, it's from my tumbling composters. They get real hot at first...but cool off pretty quick. The coffee grounds break down it seems, and most of the leaves, but there is still shredded bits of em, and little rabbit nuggets here and there. But it stays cool. And it's been sitting in tubs out on my back deck in the cold to kill off any bugs before I bring it in to use for my worms. It doesn't get hot in my worm bins even after I mix in a bunch of green pulp from my juicer mixed in it. Do you think it would still rob nitrogen? If its just the worms doing the composting?

We just had our first snow so I don't know if I'll have much luck capturing my own this time of year unfortunately. But I've got a good trade relationship with the local bait shop if you know what I mean :) and they got all sorts of worms. Any specific species I should go for or just the traditional nightcrawlers?

Thanks for your input!
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
The compost I'm mulching with is no longer hot, it's from my tumbling composters. They get real hot at first...but cool off pretty quick. The coffee grounds break down it seems, and most of the leaves, but there is still shredded bits of em, and little rabbit nuggets here and there. But it stays cool. And it's been sitting in tubs out on my back deck in the cold to kill off any bugs before I bring it in to use for my worms. It doesn't get hot in my worm bins even after I mix in a bunch of green pulp from my juicer mixed in it. Do you think it would still rob nitrogen? If its just the worms doing the composting?

We just had our first snow so I don't know if I'll have much luck capturing my own this time of year unfortunately. But I've got a good trade relationship with the local bait shop if you know what I mean :) and they got all sorts of worms. Any specific species I should go for or just the traditional nightcrawlers?

Thanks for your input!
anytime I can help my friend
well, it only sequesters nitrogen if there is insufficient nitrogen to match the carbon, past that it's closer to a simple mulch rather than a compost
from your description I think you'll be fine
the biggest contributors to nitrogen-sequestering are usually the high carbon ones, bare straw, wood chips, uncharged biochar.
what I prefer to straw, for a mulch is grass clippings, but straw works alright too, just takes forever to breakdown.
oh, and you want native nightcrawlers, if I recall the fishing ones are either European or African nightcrawlers, and I think both of those will perish in the elements (I think, I'm not an expert on that)
but I KNOW the natives do ok, because they are cold-weather worms.. so to speak.
course all that depends on what specie you have at the bait shop, but I do know firsthand that the ones we get here in California just disappear in the soil mix, whereas the natives are totally fine, and so are the reds
 

Vnsmkr

Well-Known Member
anytime I can help my friend
well, it only sequesters nitrogen if there is insufficient nitrogen to match the carbon, past that it's closer to a simple mulch rather than a compost
from your description I think you'll be fine
the biggest contributors to nitrogen-sequestering are usually the high carbon ones, bare straw, wood chips, uncharged biochar.
what I prefer to straw, for a mulch is grass clippings, but straw works alright too, just takes forever to breakdown.
oh, and you want native nightcrawlers, if I recall the fishing ones are either European or African nightcrawlers, and I think both of those will perish in the elements (I think, I'm not an expert on that)
but I KNOW the natives do ok, because they are cold-weather worms.. so to speak.
course all that depends on what specie you have at the bait shop, but I do know firsthand that the ones we get here in California just disappear in the soil mix, whereas the natives are totally fine, and so are the reds
Ive heard, dont know how true it is, that nightcrawlers sold for fishing arent worth a shit (literally) for EWC and having a presence in your pots (probably due to what Greasemonkeymann just stated about staying near top). I have loads of natives in all my pots, even the smallest one has worms
 

calliandra

Well-Known Member
So the ONLY concern i'd have with that is that the composting will sequester some nitrogen out of there, also I've seen issues with compost that is too close to the stem, when all that composting happens there quite a bit going on in there, and I've seen the main stem actually have damage from the compost being too close, same thing with making compost piles next to a tree, same way a compost pile eats through wood.
Actually, that reminds me of those perforated tubes people bury in their veggie beds and then vermicompost in. While it has its downsides and I wouldn't use it myself, it does show an example of composting next to but not directly on top of the crops to fertilize them directly.
So just having the composting going on in rings around the plants will work just as well. The dripline is where the action's at anyways, right?
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Ive heard, dont know how true it is, that nightcrawlers sold for fishing arent worth a shit (literally) for EWC and having a presence in your pots (probably due to what Greasemonkeymann just stated about staying near top). I have loads of natives in all my pots, even the smallest one has worms
exactly, they aren't for making castings, they are more for active aeration
 

calliandra

Well-Known Member
Hey I just stumbled over a "worm set" the people I got my red wigglers from are offering for raised beds and thought it might help us get a better feel for our worm "requirements" in biig pots. Hm actually I might get a few of these for the veggie planters I'm going to be setting up come spring :-P

It's a mix of deep-digging and surface worms - 50 Lumbricus terrestris to 200 Dendrobaena veneta, which they say is enough for a raised bed (though not sure what that means, as there's no standardized size?) or 20m² of (veggie) garden space.
(the source is in German: https://www.wurmwelten.de/shop/product_info.php?info=p155_-boden-auflockern--regenwurm-set---20m---.html)

Thought it interesting they're using a different species for the compost worms than in the worm bin, seems these dig a bit more, Also the relationship of composters to deep diggers, makes sense the limited space of a raised bed would need a smaller population of the diggers.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Hey I just stumbled over a "worm set" the people I got my red wigglers from are offering for raised beds and thought it might help us get a better feel for our worm "requirements" in biig pots. Hm actually I might get a few of these for the veggie planters I'm going to be setting up come spring :-P

It's a mix of deep-digging and surface worms - 50 Lumbricus terrestris to 200 Dendrobaena veneta, which they say is enough for a raised bed (though not sure what that means, as there's no standardized size?) or 20m² of (veggie) garden space.
(the source is in German: https://www.wurmwelten.de/shop/product_info.php?info=p155_-boden-auflockern--regenwurm-set---20m---.html)

Thought it interesting they're using a different species for the compost worms than in the worm bin, seems these dig a bit more, Also the relationship of composters to deep diggers, makes sense the limited space of a raised bed would need a smaller population of the diggers.
as long as those are native to your frosty area they should be good to go!
they really do make a nice addition to the soil
 

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
Hey I just stumbled over a "worm set" the people I got my red wigglers from are offering for raised beds and thought it might help us get a better feel for our worm "requirements" in biig pots. Hm actually I might get a few of these for the veggie planters I'm going to be setting up come spring :-P

It's a mix of deep-digging and surface worms - 50 Lumbricus terrestris to 200 Dendrobaena veneta, which they say is enough for a raised bed (though not sure what that means, as there's no standardized size?) or 20m² of (veggie) garden space.
(the source is in German: https://www.wurmwelten.de/shop/product_info.php?info=p155_-boden-auflockern--regenwurm-set---20m---.html)

Thought it interesting they're using a different species for the compost worms than in the worm bin, seems these dig a bit more, Also the relationship of composters to deep diggers, makes sense the limited space of a raised bed would need a smaller population of the diggers.
Very cool! I'm gonna chat worms a little bit with my worm lady and figure out what use off of what they have.
 
Top