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Nobodies trying to get you do anything you don't want to do. They are just subtly mentioning that those lights are pretty bad, and you could do much better if you wanted. Either by using cobs or by using better diodes and designing your own RB. Why copy an inferior design?

True enough! Appreciate the info. Not sure I'd personally want to grow under something that red, but you're right about the PAR vs lumens.

Perhaps. I'd like to be corrected by someone who is familiar with the results. When I divide the lumens (~24,000) by the power (~585 watts), that's about 40 something lumens/watt. Which is real, real bad. Maybe there's some hidden calculation magic. But like you say, that would require...

Does that really say ~40 lumens/watt? That's garbage. Maybe I'm misreading. I'd defer to someone like Robin or Stephen who's actually more familiar with these tests. But if that's the bottom line, you'd be better off with HPS (or much better with a real LED). Someone please correct me if I...

Whether it's worth the money is up to you. It does improve the efficiency of the heatsink somewhat (apparently the relative effect is greater for passive configurations): http://www.aavid.com/product-group/extrusions-na/anodize

The light is probably terrible. Of course, it's impossible to prove it, because the ad gives literally no technical information. You'd do better just sticking with your HPS (or much better getting a good LED setup). Edited to add: there's a reason ads leave out the technical info, and it's...

I shared this site one time before, but it's really interesting. It's what Apogee suggests you use to calibrate your PAR meter (they created the site), so I presume it's very accurate (with the caveats about weather). They even show the effect of different factors like RH. With all that said...

Agreed. But the combined tens of thousands of hours of operation without problems imply that it shouldn't be a big concern. I'm more worried crossing the street than that my ground is a problem.

I think I disagree with this response. Many, many people (in the US) on the forum are running frames connected to the ground without problems.

Totally. I was referring to the new ELG ones. Which I actually learned about from you.

If you go to the specific product pages, I don't think those are stocked yet (although it looks like they'll be getting them in early Dec). VegasWinner and others know way more about this than I do, so I defer to them, but yes, it's my understanding that with a 0-10v signal or a 10v PWM signal...

I'm pretty sure it will dim it 0%. I was going to do it with a bluefish. But does anyone stock the ELGs?

You got it.

Glad to see the post, and hope you'll continue to share information here. You're a valued contributor, as opposed to fud.

Awesome. Thanks for the knowledge.

Yeah, he's saying that you can use LDD drivers INSTEAD of the zpe driver. If you have the zpe driver, it's a lot more complicated and expensive to switch now to LDD, and you'd be better off with the power switch I linked to previously. If you don't have the zpe driver, here's a super brief...

Yeah, I think people who use a controller to turn the lights off are either: a) using a microcontrolled ac switch (like the link), or (b) using LDD drivers (which can be dimmed to 0%, that's why so many people use the PWM dimmers for reef lighting driven by LDDs). There may well be other...

If you driver won't dim to 0%, you can use something like this: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10747 Search on here, there's a long thread with a lot more information about this topic.

I'm not sure I understand totally what your goal is, but it seems like an important first question is whether the driver can be dimmed to 0%. For example, with a meanwell hlg, you can only dim to 10% using the driver circuitry. If you want to turn the driver totally off, you need a separate...

Io is current adjustment