Total BS. I've been done this road trying to get a male and never got it. Also tried the opposite of the 'this will make a female' crap (bananas, high N, etc)
Wives tales!
'Stoned man, c'mon. You should know better the people we have here. Offering up an un-housed (open frame) item for HV.
There are plenty of on or off delay relays out there.
What a dryer outlet supplies is variable. you NEED to check the breaker.
In all honesty, you sound too 'green' to go 3.6KW.
Heavy duty mean *nothing* its arbitrary.
Plywood mounting = unprofessional/homemade
Well *now* its shorted. And its no longer under warranty, since you used it incorrectly.
"Gee Mr. Chevy dealer, I just drove my Corvette into a brick wall and now the windshield leaks. (along with all the fluids)"
So what the logic behind it?
An outlet (typically 15A) needs a GFI within 6 feet of water.
A sub panel (can be 200A) is OK within ~30 inches?
Logic being an outlet is an end item and a person can be at the outlet while the sub panel is not really an end user item?
Overall I'm fine with it...
hey 'Stoned.
I was working in my garage, and noticed that my subpanel (built with the house not an addition) is like 3 feet from my hot water tank. This OK for code? I have an outlet near by that is a GFI.
How are you using them? To turn on the ballasts or to swap between bulbs? (12hrs this room and 12 hours that room)
If the latter, HPS have a high voltage (over 1000volts) start up spike that can cause the contacts to weld shut. I'd suggest to use 2 contactors, one on the bulbs and another on...
Not gonna save you a dime. If the 208 is triple phase then there *might* be a bit of savings on motors, since they are only using 2 phases at a giving instance. I haven't seen triple phase balasts. Most industrial lighting in trip phase buildings, just use one leg of the trip phase.
Power...
A dual ballast is not a switchable. Duals will run both HPS & MH at the same time. Get that full spectrum stuff going on. These are not very common, but are out there.
Switchable ballast have a switch to change from a HPS to a MH.
Digitals usually will run HPS or MH with no intervention...
Could use a digital timer to just turn off the ballast for one minute to spare the second relay. (just use a properly rated timer for *inductive* loads. Inductive loads are derated from resistive loads)
Could get fancy and use a stepping relay and each time the ballast gets turned off it...
Just gotta watch that ignition spike HPS has. It will wear the contacts. Better off with 2 relays. One for the bulb and another for the ballast. Turn the ballast off, swap the bulbs, turn ballast back on.
What do you plan on it doing? its not going to cool a cardboard box grow room let alone a closet. Even as its intended use, it really doesn't cool items in it, but will maintain the temp And thats what 1 cubic foot max? Then you need to worry about cooling the hot side (it gets hotter then...