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Voltage matters! The amp rating of the battery only states the running time, not if it will function at 5% of the rated voltage.

If the CFL want 240VAC then then yo will need the inverter. CFLs (and other gas bulbs need high HV to fire) CFLs have the ballast built in. If you want to run them on 12V look for an RV or marine/boat version thats meant to run @ 12VDC.

Where ya finding a 12VDC cell phone charger? 1980? A wall wart no prob, but this MYTH of a 12volt cell charge has got to go!

Have a 1800watt ballast to run 3 600s??? Plus not going to be a safe set up. One bulb fails and I'd bet dollars to donuts the other two on that set will fail in seconds. Spend the cash and do it right.

well, you just gave your location sorta :) But its not a set wattage that would trip them off, its the percentage of a sustained jump in the billing. And its *very* unlikely you will get popped just from the elec bill. Someone usually opens their mouth (the grower!) Or just flat out stupidity.

The power adapter is AC if it says its AC. You can make it an *unregulated* DC source with a simple bridge rectifier from radio shack. Adding in a cap to shoothout the *nasty* ripple it will have would be a good idea too. Its probably working because of the fan's circuitry. If its a PC style...

Yeppers. The part that scares me a bit about it, is the HV starting spike on the HPS. MH shouldn't be a prob, but don't see a reason to do it with MH (unless they start making a 36 hour day :) ) But if I were to do it via relays. I'd have the system, turn off the ballast, flip the relay then...

Adding all the watts is semi-ok. For ballasted lights (HPS/MH) the wattage is for the bulb *only* the ballast itself will use an additional 10-15%

Why won't the AC come back on? Should be able to get a termo switch from Newark or digikey, both have distribution centers in the UK. then use it to fire a relay that runs the lights.

Black is hot (120VAC, white is neutral (0V) and the green is ground. Mixing the black and white to the motor would be ok.

The step up will draw twice the amps it putting out. Like he said, watts is watts. The amps *after* the step up will be halved, but will be doubled before it. Using the step up will actually cause you to use *more* power from the wall. The transformation isn't power-free.

*ONLY* if your transformer is running at 100% efficiency, which is impossible at this point in time. If that xformer gets warm/hot, its wasting power.

Sure thats not 5VDC coil with 15A (120V) contacts? (can't say I've ever seen 5VAC coils or control logic)

So? The power strips typically hace a 15a breaker in them, same as the one in the breaker panel (usually) [qoute] daisy chaining is making a parrallel circuit into a series/parrallel circuit, and when you do that, voltage drop becomes a major factor. undervoltage causes components to overheat...

Probably be easier to just daisy chain them then go through the trouble of splicing them.

Just a note on surge suppressors: Their job is to keep the incoming power from allowing a high voltage 'surge' through. They really don't protect much, do NOT do voltage regulation. Think of them as a pressure blow off. If things get FAR out of wack they kick in. Secondly, nearly all are...

True, but my point was the typical level of competence of the people here......

Old thread, but popped up recently in my sights. But then soil is better then hydro. nature NEVER intended these plants to grow in water. But almost every research shows faster and bigger growth with hydro. There is no reason we can't do/offer better then what nature provides. (like indoors...

Why change? Meaning in the walls? Probably not by code regulations. Theoretically, yes. NO. The breakers are there to PROTECT THE WIRES from melting the insulation then shorting and the possible fire that can come shortly afterwards. OSHA hates ext cord. So that should give you an...

So you are advocating it?