Countryfarmer's outdoor grow

Countryfarmer

Active Member
Hey all. New to outdoor growing. I welcome all constructive criticism (if you just want to tell me how retarded I am you can stop reading now). My goal on this grow is to keep it simple and learn as much as I can. I will build on what I learn this grow.

Anyway, I started a bit late due to the length of time it took for my seeds to arrive from the seed bank. I purchased Big Bud seeds from the Netherlands because many sites that I read said that this indica strain was a good one for a beginning grower. I also planted a few bag seeds that I had collected from some good smoke I had.

I planted on May 20th, directly in soil, without germinating the seed. As I said, I planted a bit late for my area (deep south). All of my seedbank seeds were viable, and most of the bagseeds I planted were viable.

In keeping with my plan to KISS (keep it simple stupid), I used Miracle Grow Garden Soil and Miracle Grow Peat Moss as my soil mixture. I mixed the two in 70/30 ratio.

The seeds were planted in a standard peat nursery tray and located on my rear deck. I watered them with tap water that had been left to sit in an open bucket for 24+ hours (the tap water has been repeatedly checked for ph due to my wife's hobby of keeping a large indoor freshwater fish tank and has always come up as neutral). After a few days the first seeds broke the surface and eventually most of them broke ground.

And now to my first mistake. In a moment of stupidity I thought just a few granules of 10-10-10 fert would help the newly hatched seeds to grow faster (ok, you can laugh at me, I did). Anyway, I killed half my seedlings and learned the first of lessons in what not to do.

My surviving seedlings did kick into high gear on vegetative growth and I had to transplant them from their nursery tray to individual pots. For this I used some 4" peat pots with the same soil mixture. I was extremely careful when transplanting and noticed no shock to the plants. At this point I began weekly feeding with Miracle Grow tomato feed, which is a soluble 20-20-20, non-burning fert. Keeping with suggestions I have read online, I cut the recommended dosage down to one-fourth of the what the package suggests.

I continued to water with tap water as needed, with mother nature helping me out on the watering some as well. Keeping with suggestions I have read, I would water the peat pot, check it for weight and only water again when the soil became dry. Since I live in Georgia, with our temps that means I had to water at least every other day while the plants were in their small peat pots.

Two days ago I did my final pot transplant (the next transplant will be into the ground). I had timed this transplant perfectly using the standard I had read online of comparing height of plant to height of pot. The plants were just beginning to be in danger of becoming rootbound.

I transplanted from the 4" peat pots to standard black plastic nursery pots (1.5 gallon size). As I stated above, this will be my last pot transplant and the next transplant will be into the ground on a site I have prepared.

As far as the site goes, I think it is pretty good. It is in the middle of an old growth blackberry vine. After clearing a path to the middle of the blackberry growth I used my brush cutting tool on my weedeater to clear an area approximately 15' wide and 30' long. The path is easily camouflaged since I was able to bend some of the vines back when making the path and then when backing out allow them to go back to their original position. When I back out of the site, it is difficult for me to see the path I have made, and I know where it is at, so it is as camouflaged of a site as I could hope for.

About a month ago I prepared the final ground that the plants will go into by first cutting all of the blackberry vines and then using a tilling tool on my weedeater to till up the clay soil (if you have ever lived in Georgia, you know how much clay is in our soil). The site has excellent sunlight and good access to water. When I go back to the site, I expect that blackberry vines will have started growing again, and should help provide some camo from the air for my plants. I also already have additional Miracle Grow soil and peat moss on site covered with a tarp for me to use when doing the final transplant.

Back to the plants:

When I transplanted them this last time into the 1.5 gallon containers I did do something that I have only read about in a couple of locations. According to some information I read, a marijuana plant will root along its stalk similar to a tomato plant. That is why when transplanting a tomato plant, if you are container growing, you want to strip a few of the lower leaves and plant it as deep as possible. In keeping with this, I stripped the bottom pair of true fan leaves and planted my plants up to the second pair of fan leaves.

Again, I seem to have done a relatively shock free transplant as all the transplants have shown significant growth in just two days.

When I transplanted this last time, I did use a 16-18-14 slow release, non-soluble, non-burning fert. I followed the instructions on the package as to how much to add to the 1.5 gallon container, and mixed the granules in thoroughly with the soil mixture I am using. I plan on continuing with my Miracle Grow tomato feed (20-20-20) on a weekly basis, with tap water in between feedings.

I'll post some pics later today. Thanks for reading.
 

Countryfarmer

Active Member
I do have a question for some of you more experienced growers. I had a grasshopper who was partaking of my young shoots before I found him and sent him to grasshopper heaven. Before I beheaded him though he managed to give one of my young shoots a haircut at the stalk immediately above the first pair of real leaves and since that point the plant has not grown. As you can see from the picture, he also managed to eat one side of one of the leaves. But, when I went to transplant, the shoot had a well developed and strong root system, so I went ahead and gave it its own pot. Any ideas if the plant will recover? Photo included.

random 051.jpg
 

Countryfarmer

Active Member
severely stunted, it will recover slowly. That is if you allow it to.
They are? They seem to be on par with others I have seen at this stage of their life. Keep in mind that all of them have had the lower node of fan leaves removed and have been buried up to the second set of fan leaves. Without that, they would be about six inches taller. With them buried up to the second node they are 6" tall and were seeds in my hand two days shy of a month ago.

If that means they are stunted, then I did really screw them up when I hit them with the fert at such a young age.

If you are looking at the four little ones, they were the bag seed that I used and were planted just a couple of weeks ago, so they are about two weeks behind the rest of the plants.

Keep the constructive criticism coming. I really do appreciate it.
 

Countryfarmer

Active Member
I do have a question regarding flies that I haven't been able to answer with the search function. My plants have flies landing on the leaves and flying around them. I have looked for signs of eggs being laid, but see none. The flies harmful? If so, what should I do?

Thanks.
 

theloadeddragon

Well-Known Member
flies lay their eggs in water or moist soil, rotting fruit etc. ;).

Only the one is stunted, by the grasshopper. The others look fine, :).
 

Countryfarmer

Active Member
flies lay their eggs in water or moist soil, rotting fruit etc. ;).

Only the one is stunted, by the grasshopper. The others look fine, :).
Ok, so if I am getting flies I need to look at the moisture in my plant's environment. Here are photos of one of my plant's soil and the water level in that soil at 9:00 in the evening.

random 057.jpgrandom 055.jpgrandom 058.jpgrandom 056.jpgrandom 054.jpg

As you can see, the pots are 9.5 inches deep (diameter of 10 inches). I used a wooden stick on the side of the bucket that looked like it had the moistest soil and then measured the water mark. The soil shows moisture along 4 inches and as far as I can tell from a top view, with all of the plants being watered at the same time in the evening, this is the plant I watered the heaviest.

With mid-day temps of 95 degrees (+) I pretty much have to water every day either early in the morning or late in the evening, else the soil is very dry. If I water early in the day I try to water at the base of the plant to keep sun damage from the leaves (I have two that show evidence of sun related damage due to water on the leaves magnifying the sun). I have two that have grasshopper damage as well, of which I pointed out the worst. The other plant is about a week behind in growth to its peers. And I have the small four bagseed plants that started just two weeks back, but they seem to be doing well. All plants have been outside from the start and all were germinated the old fashioned way.

Love any comments you guys can give me telling me how I can improve.
 

Countryfarmer

Active Member
don't water every day.

Why are you worried about flies?
Thanks for the info dragon. I'll see how they do when I let their soil get a bit dry. I was just trying to keep some moisture in it (not wet, just some moisture).

I wasn't particularly worried about flies, but as this is my first grow was trying to find out if there was anything I needed to be concerned about in regards to them (eggs, etc).
 

Countryfarmer

Active Member
Looks good

Your problems could be from your soil.

Good luck

Peace
doublejj
Yeh, I know I could go for a far better soil. Looking at beginning the prep for that this fall with a compost bin. I'll add horse, cow, chicken, and guano to the compost next spring. Also have plans for growing my own worm castings. But this year I just went with a basic, decent commercial brand (Miracle Grow soil and peat moss).

When the plants go to their final grow site I will have a mix of site soil, the 70/30 Miracle Grow mix I have in the pots and another 600 pounds of Miracle Grow (soil and peat combined) in bags. I plan on using the site soil as, although "clay-ee" soil it does have earthworms present in good numbers, which means it is fertile and good ground to use.

I plan on digging 3' X 3' X 2' deep square holes and filling with a combination of the Miracle Grow and local soil, with a small amount of LawnLime added to the mix. Any suggestions?
 

theloadeddragon

Well-Known Member
you want your pots to dry out. Not completely dry, but around the outer edges. You can tell be looking at holes in the bottoms of the pots to see if its still moist, and sticking your finger down into them to feel how moist it is. When its fairly dry a couple inches down, go ahead and water again. You can see the color change too. When your soil is wet its darker, when it is dry it is a lighter color. You can also tell when to water by how heavy the pot is, let your soil dry out well and test it by feel with your fingers. When its dry on the top inch or so, feel how heavy the pot is, then water and feel how heavy it is. At some point you will need to put them into bigger pots, or start feeding them. There are 17 essential nutrients vitamins and minerals your plants are going to need to thrive. There are two general categories of plant nutrients that are commonly refferred to as Macro and Micro. I sincerely suggest you learn about them, and how the work together with the plant, the water, and the substrate (soil) to provide what your plants need to grow. From there you can select your own nutrients to use, or none at all.

Letting your soil dry out (oxygenate actually ;) roots need oxygen) will help prevent fly larva and other kinds of larva from hatching in an ideal environment in the soil, as well as prevent plant moisture stress, and root rot, stem rot, and suffocation. Letting your soil dry out well will also prevent harmful insects and parasites from finding their way into your soil and root system. you don't ever want your soil completely dry, the plants themselves will start drooping slightly when its starting to get too dry.

You may want to worry more about those grasshoppers ;). And keep your eyes peeled for spider mites, caterpillars, slugs and snails, and aphids, as well as moths and herbivorous insects such as white flies . These are all fairly common pests. There are both all natural organic home remedy methods, as well as sprays and traps that you can buy, to deal with pest issues.
 

theloadeddragon

Well-Known Member
Yeh, I know I could go for a far better soil. Looking at beginning the prep for that this fall with a compost bin. I'll add horse, cow, chicken, and guano to the compost next spring. Also have plans for growing my own worm castings. But this year I just went with a basic, decent commercial brand (Miracle Grow soil and peat moss).

When the plants go to their final grow site I will have a mix of site soil, the 70/30 Miracle Grow mix I have in the pots and another 600 pounds of Miracle Grow (soil and peat combined) in bags. I plan on using the site soil as, although "clay-ee" soil it does have earthworms present in good numbers, which means it is fertile and good ground to use.

I plan on digging 3' X 3' X 2' deep square holes and filling with a combination of the Miracle Grow and local soil, with a small amount of LawnLime added to the mix. Any suggestions?
Go for it..... though I am not a big fan of nor do I use MG (miracle grow), so I couldn't say how that would work out for you. Im sure they would do better in the ground than in pots though, so go for it, :).

Those are good sized holes. I would Love to see what your local soil looks like.
 

Countryfarmer

Active Member
you want your pots to dry out. Not completely dry, but around the outer edges. You can tell be looking at holes in the bottoms of the pots to see if its still moist, and sticking your finger down into them to feel how moist it is. When its fairly dry a couple inches down, go ahead and water again. You can see the color change too. When your soil is wet its darker, when it is dry it is a lighter color. You can also tell when to water by how heavy the pot is, let your soil dry out well and test it by feel with your fingers. When its dry on the top inch or so, feel how heavy the pot is, then water and feel how heavy it is. At some point you will need to put them into bigger pots, or start feeding them. There are 17 essential nutrients vitamins and minerals your plants are going to need to thrive. There are two general categories of plant nutrients that are commonly refferred to as Macro and Micro. I sincerely suggest you learn about them, and how the work together with the plant, the water, and the substrate (soil) to provide what your plants need to grow. From there you can select your own nutrients to use, or none at all.

Letting your soil dry out (oxygenate actually ;) roots need oxygen) will help prevent fly larva and other kinds of larva from hatching in an ideal environment in the soil, as well as prevent plant moisture stress, and root rot, stem rot, and suffocation. Letting your soil dry out well will also prevent harmful insects and parasites from finding their way into your soil and root system. you don't ever want your soil completely dry, the plants themselves will start drooping slightly when its starting to get too dry.

You may want to worry more about those grasshoppers ;). And keep your eyes peeled for spider mites, caterpillars, slugs and snails, and aphids, as well as moths and herbivorous insects such as white flies . These are all fairly common pests. There are both all natural organic home remedy methods, as well as sprays and traps that you can buy, to deal with pest issues.
Yeh, trying to make sure that they are dry when I water them. I may have over-watered them this afternoon to still have some of them showing wetness in the soil. Just checked with my fingers and the soil is still moist to the touch at 10 PM my time and when I stuck my finger as far into the pot as I could go it remained moist throughout (not damp or wet, just moist). Still getting used to the new sized pot and how much moisture it will hold.

On the nutrient angle, I purchased a non-burning, slow-release 16-18-14 plant food that contains Boron, Copper, Iron, Manganese, Molybdenum and Zinc for when the plants are in pots. I'll add a little bit to the soil mixture when they go into the ground (probably 7-14 days from now). And the natural soil should have all the micros necessary due the presence of earthworms in the site soil.

What are the remaining micros I should look at while in pots? Or should I not concern myself with it as long as they look good in pots and just go with what I have?

For the pests problems, I have noticed a lot of people talking about the product BT. I thought I would try it, and Seven Dust the camouflaging plants around my plants. I'd rather not SD the pot plants themselves, but if I have to will only do so in veg.

I have a natural product for repelling rabbits and deer, of which there are many. I also have some human hair (told my barber I needed it for my vegetable garden - I have one of those too), which I will spread around the site after the plants are dug in. I make a point of pissing there as much as I can when I am on-site, but I only go when I have work to do there.

You fine folks are the only ones who know I am growing (and I plan on keeping it that way since Georgia would send me to Pound-Me-In-The-Ass Prison).
 

Countryfarmer

Active Member
Go for it..... though I am not a big fan of nor do I use MG (miracle grow), so I couldn't say how that would work out for you. Im sure they would do better in the ground than in pots though, so go for it, :).

Those are good sized holes. I would Love to see what your local soil looks like.
When I go back to dig out the holes I will make sure I take some pics of the process. Kind of neat to journal about it here and get real time input to what is going on with my plants.
 

Countryfarmer

Active Member
Bought myself a decent soil tester today. Tests for ph, moisture level, light level and fert level. All of my pots' soil ph'd out at between 6.5 and 6.8, with one outlier hitting 7.0. Moisture level was very low, so I watered, but with the temps we get here each day that doesn't surprise me. Light was fine (they get excellent light on my back deck). And fert levels were actually low. I had thought that my original mistake might have had the ph and fert levels screwed up, but I guess the flush I did four weeks back did the job.

While I was at the store I picked up some guano/wormcast tea the store had just made as well and added that to my water when I gave them their drink.
 
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