Jester88's Basick Grow Guide & Some Planting Times

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Jester88

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WELCOME TO
jester88's grow guide


Planting Times


BEAR IN MIND THESE ARE FOR AUSTRALIA.....
BUT I AM THINKING THE LOGIC COULD BE PLACE TO USE ELSWHERE

if your not from oz i believe taking each season back six months will be beneficial in some places ie April=October


*
Summer Crop*
most veg time and biggest plants

SOW: September
HARVEST: April
SEX: Around February

if you plant around here you should get 6 months veg and 2 months flower.

*Late Summer Crop*

SOW: December
HARVEST: April
SEX: Around February

*Autumn Crop*

SOW: February
HARVEST: June
SEX: Around April

*Winter Crop*
Small plants with decent budz

SOW: April
HARVEST: August
SEX: Around June


There ya have it, the ozzie planting times, follow these and you can happily grow up to four outdoor crops in oz.
Always plant towards the sun too.... where i am from and all other ozzies that means if we were on a hill we would plant it on the north facing side so it gets the sun (well call it the sunny side)


Tips On Growth

1) Pot Size

*A general rule of thumb is 3 gallons per foot of growth

*
Also remember: watch how hot the pots get, Hot pots damage roots... A good way to avoid this is find a way of shading the pots. ie Put the pot inside a pot thats a little bit bigger.
Hot pots is more of an outdoor problem tho

*
Make sure your pot doesn't let light through (some plastic ones are known for this)


2) Good Soil
A good soil is very important. I'm not going to get into the details of it as to theres so many ways and different soil mixes and methods out there its not funny. some people add nutes to there soil, others dont they add them as needed.... its up to you... but what all it comes down to really is..
*Good Drainage And Water Retension
*The soil should soak up the water easily.. and get a nice damp texture to it....A texture when damp you should be able to close your fist and make a ball that holds together nicely. (LOOSE GRITTY SOIL) is what were after.

NOTE:
You should also be able to press on this ball and have it crumble nicely not stick together like mud.


*When the soils saturated, meaning starting to puddle in the pot, you should be able to leave it for a minute or two and come back to a nice damp soil. you should be able to see it drain out that means you got good drainage... The soil shouldnt be to clay like (some sand will help if your soil has shitty drainage.)

If you make this your main priority when dealing with making/managing your soil your plants should have no problems developing roots and becoming a healthy plant.

*Rocks in the bottom of a pot will also help with drainage.

3) Maintain A Good Soil PH:
As we all should know marijuana is an acid loving plant which means in lamen terms: keep the ph correct

Remembering:
the higher a number like 8.2 for example is more alkaline than a reading of 6.3 which will be more acidic. So by going up on the scale your going down in acidity (more alkaline) and if you were getting lower numbers. Your acid levels are rising.

You want to keep the soils ph around 6.8- 7.0, this will be ideal outdoors
for hydrophonics 5.5-6.8 is ideal.

But ya gotta remember every plants different. Ya cant expect every plant to like the same exact environment.. So if you follow the guidlines you should be right

an added note...
PHP:
also a some people say a ph of 5.5 to 5.9 is good for hydroponics...as  this will help avoid nute lock namely magnesium deficiency especially with fussy strains. just another side note....THIS INFORMATION COURTESY OF Eza82 ;)

Well they are acid loving plants after all. and these numbers aren't 100% to my liking but still thought id mention it.

And although this is helpful id still go with the notes i provided and take what this smart man brought to my attention into account... it really does have some merrit ppl... Follow any of these guidelines and you should be fine..

you can lower ph (make more acidic) with vinegar
and make it (more alkaline) with lime

Its important that you keep the ph up to scratch other wise you may get nute lock.... This will trick noobs into thinking theres not enough ferts in there and its missing something.. When really the ph is wrong and the plant just cant use whats already there.. symptoms of this normally appear when its too late to do anything.
but means its time for a flush.

4) Choosing The Right Fertilizers...

Here's everything the plant really needs

MAJOR ELEMENTS
Nitrogen (N)
Phosphorous (P)
Potassium (K)

SECONDARY ELEMENTS
Calcium (Ca)
Magnesium (Mg)
Sulphur (S)

MINOR AND TRACE ELEMENTS
Iron (Fe)
Manganese (Mn)
Copper (Cu)
Zinc (Zn)
Boron (B)
Molybdenum (Mo)
Chlorine (Cl)
Cobolt (Co)
Sodium (Na)

Anyhoozers

Choosing the right ferts is simple really. You just have to take into account that the plant needs more nitrogen during veg and more phosphorous and potassium during flower.

So taking that into account.. Ya just want to get some ferts that are higher in N than P&K during veg.
Then for flower you need something higher in P&K than N

ie
(note numbers made up on the spot off the top of my head; its just so you get the point)

VEG= 15:6:8
FLOWER= 4:11:13

You can also get a decent base fert with a good array of everything and add more nitrogen to the mix. (ie urea and things of the sort) during veg and add more potassium (pot ash) during flower. its up to you.

Tomato ferts are generally good for flower too :wink:.

Like i said the higher the nitrogen during veg the better= faster growth
and in flower more P&K this will cause the buds to swell nicely

You want to cease all ferts a week or two before the harvest and use water only. this will cause the plant to use up any excess ferts and drain them from the soil.... resulting in a better tasting smoke that doesnt crackle or have trouble burning when you light it :wink:

This is called a flushing the weed. we also do another version of this when dealing with nute burn. but when doing this with nute burn you simply flood the bucket with about two times its original mass so to flush a 20 gallon bucket use 40 gallons of water this should get rid of the build up of nutes and lower the soils ph

5) Compost

Use what ya want im not gonna say your wrong

but heres some thoughtful guidlines

use: grass clippings, wood ash, food scraps, seaweed, and animal manure

dont use: fiberous woody materials ie paper, straw, woodchips

Acceleration of composition
*turning regularly
* water
* lime
* nitrogen rich ferts

it should take about 8 weeks in hot weather 12 in colder conditions

6) Choosing A Good Seed

A good seed is nice dark brown in color and may have black specly like things on them.... Whats more ya should be able to give them a little pinch and not have it crack on you. You will come across seeds that are pale/green or white like or break these are no good they are either duds, havent finished maturing or just developed shitty ways. you may get some even sprout, but best not to fuck around with them theyre a wast of time unless ya got nothing else. or got sent a shitty quality seed from a seedbank that ya dont wanna spend money for nothing on. i have never had this problem always healthy dark strong seeds no matter where i get it from :smile:

7) Germinating Seeds

How To germ seeds

EVERYONE ALREADY HAS A HEATING PAD its called a tv or a dvd/video player anything of the sort....


anyways jesters germing methods
(just ya usual germ technique really lol)

items needed

MTHD 1
1)some paper towel. tissues anything of the sort.
2)ziplock bag aka a sandwich bag
3)something that generates heat ie a tv (not a flatscreen lol) , video/dvd player etc.
4) a tea towel, something to block direct light
5)water
6)some good beans

MTHD 2
using cotton wool method ( i think it could appeal 2 u is all)
1) a plastic container
2)cotton wool
3)water
4)some good beans

directions

MTHD1

1)Firstly ya want to get a nice piece of absorbent towel and put your beans in it.
2)Then what you do is make sure there spread out nicely in a little patch and fold the towel over itself to cover them and hold them together.
3)You then wet the paper and seeds (note use water thats at room temperature)
4)Next you put the paper towel that you just put the seeds in and wet inside the zip lock bag and seal it shut so no moisture gets out.
5)Put the ziplock bag on top of the tv (the big back bit where the vents are not the screen)/ dvd player whatever you decided to use.
6) Put the teatowel over it (you can use anything really, ya just want to block out direct light)
7)Check every day or so there should always be enough moisture in there but it pays off to check on the beans and see how far along thy are.
:cool: i wait untill they have a decent bit of root on them and burry them just below the serface root down.
9) Keep sufficient water on it and watch it break out the small layer of soil above them by the next few days and watch it break ut of the seed. show its cotlydons and start growing leaves.

MTHD2
1)Put cotton wool inside your container
2)Sprinkle your beans in the container and over the cotton wool
3)Move them around so there spaced nicely and push te beans in the cotton a little
4)Wet the beans so theyre cotton is nicely damp and give em all another tiny SOFT push in (you want the cotton to be hugging them not have them just sitting on top so you may have to put more cotton in about now and cover the surface a little it helps it all stay damp, you may need to add a tiny more water if you added more cotton)
5)You can put them in on a heating pad or something. "i just put them somewhere they get soft sun and get good germ rates"
6)When i do it this way i either wait till they got a nice tap root sticking out of the seed then put them in soil.... or if im slack ill jst let them grow in this container till theyve got there cotlydons and first set of leaves then i put them in dirt) thought this may appeal to you cos it can be a seedling before it hits the dirt :smile:


these arent my pics but i generally wait till the tap root is at LEAST as big as the center three in pic three or the one in the top right in pic 1

:cool: 8) Pest Controll
there are many kinds of pest controll/ preventative measures available its just a matter of which way you want to go. i personally use some pretty good shit called Kill-A-Mite but that shit is almost guaranteed to work just a bit overkill for small infestations (my views just use less. heres a few other things ya might want to look into

*Weak soapy water
*Neem or something with pyrethium in it
*Sticky strips used to catch flying bugs
*Get a pesticide like my kill-a-mite
* There are chilli, garlic and other sprays of the sort you can make at home
*Soapy water is supposed to help controll them too
You will have to stop using a lot of these well before harvest

As for animals you can make mini greenhouses for while there young and put mesh along the ground to avoid things digging it up from the roots. mark your territory with pea or leave other inviteing things for them elswhere.

You can put things around them ie fences if your at home or tubing around stem if your in the sticks. some people even take off tempting bottom growth what the small animals might eye off. all in all theres not much more you can do for them unless you wanna build a forte to protect them.. and thats not too subtle is it.

Wind can be another pest really my only advise is plant somewhere theres a wind break or on the sunny side of a hill (where im from thats north)

You shouldnt find it too hard to stay on top of pests once the plants a bit taller and established. growing them for a month before putting them out also helps survival rates

9) When To Harvest

thanks marduk from planet skunk

There is a lot of different oppinions about when exactly to harvest your plant. when you do is up to you.

1)A good rule of thumb however is when 60 to 80 percent of the hairs have turned a brown, orange or amber colour.

2) Another way is to get a magnifying scope and look for browning of the trichomes (trich's) .. when they start browning they are at theyre peak :smile:

note
The earlier you pick within this gap influences the kind of high you will get as well earlier picked bud will generally have more of a cerebral effect....

where as if you let it mature more (allow more hairs to turn red and show signs of aging or trich's turing amber) you will get more of a couch lock stoned to it.

the reason for this is because once the plant has reached its peak it the trichromes start to convert themselves from thc to cbd giving you the more couch lock stoned...... that i personally love..

But for best results you gotta get a nice mix thats my views.and every strain is different i have merely provided you with some good rule of thumb here :wink:

10 ) Drying And Curing
You can always speed dry for a fast smoke but heres how to get some nice tasting smoke. its all in how you dry and how you cure your buds :)

Also remember to keep seperate strains sepearate other wise the flavours mix and you dont get the seperate flavours

10a) Drying
Well now that we have the when to harvest down pat we gotta know the basics behind curing. ...Curing is an important process because it is one of the most important steps in obtaining good tasting dank smoke... Right along with flushing for the last bit of growth :smile:....

the best environment for drying and curing buds is a well aired. dark dry maybe even hot environment (if you can find one it makes for a faster cure).... light will degrade the thc.

google pics

Although a good way to do this is hang the plant (or single trimmed colas and branches like i do) upside down in a dark well ventilated area that wont get too humid and allow the bud to get moldy...

when you use branches hanging them off string in a box or a dark room as stated above works...

Basically ya just want to dry them in a dark well airated place where they wont be to humid or touch this will allow mold to set in

note
First things first i like to trim all the fan leaves off and trim the leaves back to have nice manicured buds to hang. and wont get leafy buds when finished. you will get tight compact nugz thats it :smile:

10b) Curing

Drying your weed alone isnt enough it will only make it smokeable if you want to fully enjoy smoking the stuff its recommended..

1) To leave hanging till dry. from here you want to either break your plant down if you hung a whole one or if already small put them in some paper bags....

this will help draw out any excess moisture cos your going to be putting them in airtight containers to ferment ie mason jars or tupperware containers and if any moistures left it will cause mold.

2) A good way to test this is to put the buds in a plastic or ziplock bag for a few days and see if it gets moisture on it... of so wait a bit longer..

3) Then comes the bit i was talking about

you then put the dry buds in the mason jar, tupperware container whatever you chose (its got to be air tight).. fill it up as much as possible fill in any gaps.... the less air the better ppl

4) Check this a few times each day if you find its still wet just take out and wrap in paper or put somewhere hot and dark (even back in paper bags would be good (not humid tho we dont want mold remember)

Repeat this for a while to let the buds ferment and gain its flavour..

then its happy smoking ppl
:clap::clap:

11) Storing The Buds

MAKE SURE ITS ALL PROPPERLY DRY
or youll get mold

Anyhoo store an airtight container and in a dry dark place depending on the container....

just make sure it doesnt get too hot or allow any mousture in or mold up on ya.

If done right its kinda like curing for longer and may help the flavour :wink:



EXTRA TIPS
*Always leave tap water to sit before use it will help the maintain a good ph and get rid of some of the chlorine and fluoride thats in the water = BETTER WATER FOR THE PLANTS THEY'LL THANK YOU (especially seedlings :smile:.

* Get some epsom salts..
though quite often caused by nute lock a lot of ferts just dont have the right amount of magnesium (if any) depends what you use. anyways if you find your fert is missing this a little of this with your next water will get rid of that little problem fast as. you will notice brownish spots and shit like that appearing on your leaves

* For soil thats too hard and wont drain soapy water will help. it conditions the soil and wont really harm the plants
if you havent already planted adding sand to soil will help it drain better if its got a drainage problem..

*Dont think the worlds going to end just cos you get a nute deficiency, if you get one just look at what is needed and correct it (ill add a list for quick referance soon)

* To keep seedlings safe cut the bottom off a 2+ litre bottle and stick it over the seedling like a mini greenhouse.

* if a plant is getting to heavy for itself use a stake to hold it up as needed

* If a your plant has a break (not really for severd limbs and if you know how to graft y are you reading this lol) and you get to it guick enough just splint with matchsticks or something of the sort and wrap it in something it can breath through like a t shirt or cheese cloth... you may want to support the branch with a stake

* Worms are good too they help maintain the soil and are good indicators to tell you if the grounds too wet..... theyll surface

*To deal with nute burn just feed the plants with over two times the origional buckets mass.... i just flood it for a while till im satisfied

* Also if you cant afford pot ash you can use fire remains

*
natmoon said:
Cover the splint in cloning gel,it will prevent air,disease and mould and help to seal the wound much more quickly.No it wont root out of the top,lolbongsmilie


i dont grow weed nor do i condone growing weed... this is all just theory and i got all the information from the intenet and books and stuff. its all make believe and not admissable in the court of law.... I MADE IT ALL UP FOR THE HELL OF IT... i just like telling lies and making shit up what can i say :bigjoint:

any feed back is appreciated... hope someone gets a good read out of it tho

Thanks for reading people
Jester88
 

Jester88

Well-Known Member
Heat Stress

Look closely, and you'll see the brown leaf edges that are indicative of heat stress. This damage looks alot like nutrient burn, except it occurs only at the tops of the plants closest to the lamps. There's only one cure for this...get the heat away from the plants, either by moving the lamps or moving the plants.
Figure​
Nutrient Solution Burn

There's a good chance that this bud was subjected to nutrient solution burn. These symptoms are seen when the EC concentration of hydroponic solutions is too high. These symptoms also appear when strong nutrient solution is splashed onto the leaves under hot HID lamps, causing the leaves to burn under the solution.
Figure​
Many hydroponic gardeners see this problem. It's the beginning of nutriet burn. It indicates that the plants have all the nutrients they can possibly use, and there's a slight excess. Back off the concentration of the nutrient solution just a touch, and the problem should disappear. Note that if the plants never get any worse than this here, then the plants are probably just fine.
Figure​
Figure 4 is definitely an over-fert problem. The high level of nutrients accumulates in the leaves and causes them to dry out and burn up as shown here. You must flush with clear, clean water immediately to allow the roots to recover, and prevent further damage. The find the cause of the high nutrient levels.
Figure​
Over Watering

The plants in Figure 1 were on a continous drip system, where nutrient solution is constantly being pumped into the medium. This tends to keep the entire root system completely saturated. A better way would be to periodically feed the plants, say for 1/2 hour every 2-3 hours. This would give the roots a chance to get needed air to them, and prevent root rot and other problems.
Don't be throw off by the fact that the plants in Figure 2 are sitting in still water, this is actually an H2O2 solution used to try and correct the problem. Adding an airstone to the tub would also help add O2 to the solution.
Figure​
pH Fluctuation

Both of these leaves in figure 3 and figure 4 are from the same plant. It could be over fertilization, but more likely it is due to the pH being off. Too high or too low a pH can lock up nutrients in the form of undisolvable salts and compounds, some of which are actually toxic to the plants. What then happens is the grower then tries to supplement the plants diet by adding more fertilizers, throwing off the pH even more and locking up even more nutrients. This type of problem is seen more often in soil mixes, where inconsistent mixing of the medium's components leads to "hot" spots.
Figure​
Figure​
Ozone damage

Ozone damage typically found near the generator. Although a rare problem, symptoms generally appear as a Mg deficiency, but the symptoms are localized to immediately around the generator.
Figure​
NUTRIENT PROBLEMS

Root stunting

Root stunting is characteristic of calcium deficiency, acidity, aluminum toxicity, and copper toxicity. Some species may also show it when boron deficient. The shortened roots become thickened, the laterals become stubby, peg-like, and the whole system often discolours, brown or grey.
Symptoms localized at shoot growing points.

New shoots unopened; young leaves distorted; dead leaf tips; pale green plant copper deficiency
New shoots withered or dead; petiole or stem collapse; shoots stunted; green plant calcium deficiency
Young leaves pale green or yellow; rosetting or dead tip; dieback; dark green plant boron deficiency
MOBILE ELEMENTS

Mobile elements are more likely to exhibit visual deficiencies in the older leaves, because during demand these elements will be exported to the new growth.
Nitrogen (N)

Nitrate - Ammonium is found in both inorganic and organic forms in the plant, and combines with carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and sometimes sulfur to form amino acids, amino enzymes, nucleic acids, chlorophyll, alkaloids, and purine bases. Nitrogen rates high as molecular weight proteins in plant tissue.
Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients.
Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Nitrogen Deficiencies
Plants will exhibit lack of vigor, slow growth and will be weak and stunted. Quality and yield will be significantly reduced. Older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Deficient plants will exhibit uniform light green to yellow on older leaves, these leaves may die and drop. Leaf margins will not curled up noticeably. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple.

Figure​
As seen in figure 10 consumption of nitrogen (N) from the fan leaves during the final phase of flowing is 100% normal.
Figure​
Nitrogen Toxicity
Leaves are often dark green and in the early stages abundant with foliage. If excess is severe, leaves will dry and begin to fall off. Root system will remain under developed or deteriorate after time. Fruit and flower set will be inhibited or deformed.
With breakdown of vascular tissue restricting water uptake. Stress resistance is drastically diminished.
Phosphorus

Phosphorus is a component of certain enzymes and proteins, adenosine triphosphate (ATP), ribonucleic acids (RNA), deoxyribonucleic acids (DNA) and phytin. ATP is involved in various energy transfer reactions, and RNA and DNA are components of genetic information.
Phosphorus (P) deficiency
Figure 11 is severe phosphorus (P) deficiency during flowering. Fan leaves are dark green or red/purple, and may turn yellow. Leaves may curl under, go brown and die. Small-formed buds are another main symptom.
Phosphorus deficiencies exhibit slow growing, weak and stunted plants with dark green or purple pigmentation in older leaves and stems.
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Purpling: accumulation of anthocyanin pigments; causes an overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint, and is the common sign of phosphate deficiency. Some plant species and varieties respond to phosphate deficiency by yellowing instead of purpling. Purpling is natural to some healthy ornamentals.
Figure​
Figure 12 shows Phosphorus (P) deficiency during vegatative growth. Many people mistaken this for a fungus, but look for the damage to occur near the end of leave, and leaves the color dull greyish with a very brittle texture.
Figure​
Phosphorus (P) Toxicity
This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability and stability of copper and zinc.
Potassium (K)

Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the tugor pressure of it's cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality.
Potassium deficiency (K).
Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions (dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken, the plant may also stretch. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. In addition to appearing to look like iron deficiency, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Figure​
Figure​
Potassium (K) Toxicity
Usually not absorbed excessively by plants. Excess potassium can aggravate the uptake of magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and effect the availability of calcium.
Magnesium

Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in Figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Figure​
Figure​
Figure​
Magnesium (Mg) Toxicity
Magnesium toxicity is rare and not generally exhibited visibly. Extreme high levels will antagonize other ions in the nutrient solution.
Zinc

Zinc plays a roll in the same enzyme functions as manganese and magnesium. More than eighty enzymes contain tightly bound zinc essential for their function. Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation and helps prevent chlorophyll destruction. Carbonic anhydrate has been found to be specifically activated by zinc.
Zinc Deficiencies
Deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the inter-veinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance as seen in figure 18. This may be accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.
Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc. Zinc deficiency produces "little leaf" in many species, especially woody ones; the younger leaves are distinctly smaller than normal. Zinc defeciency may also produce "rosetting"; the stem fails to elongate behind the growing tip, so that the terminal leaves become tightly bunched.

Figure​
Zinc Toxicity
Excess Zinc is extremely toxic and will cause rapid death. Excess zinc interferes with iron causing chlorosis from iron deficiency. Excess will cause sensitive plants to become chlorotic.
IMMOBILE ELEMENTS

Immobile elements will show their first symptoms on younger leaves and progress to the whole plant.
Sulphur (S)

Sulfate is involved in protein synthesis and is part of the amino acids, cystine and thiamine, which are the building blocks of proteins. It is active in the structure and metabolism in the plant. It is essential for respiration and the synthesis and breakdown of fatty acids.
Sulphur (S) deficiency
The initial symptoms are the yellowing of the entire leaf including veins usually starting with the younger leaves. Leaf tips may yellow and curl downward. Sulfur deficiencies are light green fruit or younger leaves with a lack of succulence. Elongated roots and woody stem. Although it's hard to see in figure 19, the upper stems of this plant are purple. Although many varieties of cannabis do get purplish stems, the trait generally extends the entire length of the plant's stem, and not just near the top as in this specimen.
Figure​
Sulphur Toxicity
Leaf size will be reduced and overall growth will be stunted. Leaves yellowing or scorched at edges. Excess may cause early senescence.
Calcium

Calcium plays an important role in maintaining cell integrity and membrane permeability.
Calcium Deficiency
Young leaves are affected first and become small and distorted or chlorotic with irregular margins, spotting or necrotic areas. Bud development is inhibited, blossom end rot and internal decay may also occur and root may be under developed or die back. Deficiency will cause root tip die-back, leaf tip curl and marginal necrosis and chlorosis primarily in younger leaves. Symptoms: young leaves develop chlorosis and distortion such as crinkling, dwarfing, developing a strap-like shape, shoots stop growing and thicken.
Calcium Toxicity
Difficult to distinguish visually. May precipitate with sulfur in solution and cause clouding or residue in tank. Excess calcium may produce deficiencies in magnesium and potassium.
Iron

Iron is an important component of plant enzyme systems for electron transport to carry electrons during photosynthesis and terminal respiration. It is a catalyst for chlorophyll production and is required for nitrate and sulfate reduction and assimilation.
Iron (Fe) deficiency
Pronounced interveinal chlorosis similar to that caused by magnesium deficiency but on the younger leaves.
Leaves exhibit chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves mainly between the veins, starting with the lower and middle leaves.
Caused by factors that interfere with iron absorption of roots: over irrigation, excessive soluble salts, inadequate drainage, pests, high substrate pH, or nematodes. This is easily corrected by adding an iron supplement with the next watering.
Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
Note that when adding iron to the solution, it is often necessary to not use fertilizer for that watering. Iron has a tendency of reacting with many of the components of fertilizer solutions, and will cause nutrient lockup to occur. Read the labels of both the iron supplement and the fertilizer you are using before you attempt to combine the two.
Figure​
Iron Toxicity
Excess accumulation is rare but could cause bronzing or tiny brown spots on leaf surface.
Manganese

Manganese is involved in the oxidation reduction process in the photosynthetic electron transport system. Biochemical research shows that this element plays a structural role in the chloroplast membrane system, and also activates numerous enzymes.
Manganese Deficiency
Interveinal chlorosis of younger leaves, necrotic lesions and leaf shredding are typical symptom of this deficiency. High levels can cause uneven distribution of chlorophyll resulting in blotchy appearance. Restricted growth and failure to mature normally can also result.
Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.
Manganese Toxicity
Toxicity:Chlorosis, or blotchy leaf tissue due to insufficient chlorophyll synthesis. Growth rate will slow and vigor will decline.
Chlorine

Chloride is involved in the evolution of oxygen in the photosynthesis process and is essential for cell division in roots and leaves. Chlorine raises the cell osmotic pressure and affects stomata regulation and increases the hydration of plant tissue. Levels less than 140 ppm are safe for most plants. Chloride sensitive plants may experience tip or marginal leaf burn at concentrations above 20 ppm.
Chlorine Deficiency
Wilted chlorotic leaves become bronze in color. Roots become stunted and thickened near tips. Plants with chlorine deficiencies will be pale and suffer wilting.
Chlorine Toxicity
Burning of leaf tip or margins. Bronzing, yellowing and leaf splitting. Reduced leaf size and lower growth rate.
Boron

Boron biochemical functions are yet uncertain, but evidence suggests it is involved in the synthesis of one of the bases for nucleic acid (RNA uracil) formation. It may also be involved in some cellular activities such as division, differentiation, maturation and respiration. It is associated with pollen germination.
Boron Deficiency
Plants deficient in boron exhibit brittle abnormal growth at shoot tips and one of the earliest symptoms is failure of root tips to elongate normally. Stem and root apical meristems often die. Root tips often become swollen and discolored. Internal tissues may rot and become host to fungal disease. Leaves show various symptoms which include drying, thickening, distorting, wilting, and chlorotic or necrotic spotting.
Boron Toxicity
Yellowing of leaf tip followed by necrosis of the leaves beginning at tips or margins and progressing inward before leaves die and prematurely fall off. Some plants are especially sensitive to boron accumulation.
Copper
Copper is a constituent of many enzymes and proteins. Assists in carbohydrate metabolism, nitrogen fixation and in the process of oxygen reduction.
Copper Deficiency
Symptoms of deficiency are a reduced or stunted growth with a distortion of the younger leaves and growth tip die-back. Young leaves often become dark green and twisted. They may die back or just exhibit necrotic spots. Growth and yield will be deficient as well.
Copper Toxicity
Copper is required in very small amounts and readily becomes toxic in solution culture if not carefully controlled. Excess values will induce iron deficiency. Root growth will be suppressed followed by symptoms of iron chlorosis, stunting, reduced branching, abnormal darkening and thickening of roots.
Molybdenum
Molybdenum is a component of two major enzyme systems involved in the nitrate reeducates, this is the process of conversion of nitrate to ammonium.
Molybdenum Deficiencies
Often interveinal chlorosis which occurs first on older leaves, then progressing to the entire plant. Developing severely twisted younger leaves which eventually die. Molybdenum deficiencies frequently resemble nitrogen, with older leaves chlorotic with rolled margins and stunted growth.
Molybdenum Toxicity
Excess may cause discoloration of leaves depending on plant species. This condition is rare but could occur from accumulation by continuous application. Used by the plant in very small quantities. Excess mostly usually does not effect the plant, however the consumption of high levels by grazing animals can pose problems so she might not be too good to smoke.
Sodium
Sodium seems to encourage crop yields and in specific cases it acts as an antidoting agent against various toxic salts. It may act as a partial substitute for potassium deficiencies. Excess may cause plant toxicity or induce deficiencies of other elements. If sodium predominates in the solution calcium and magnesium may be affected.
Silicon
Silicon usually exists in solution as silicic acid and is absorbed in this form. It accumulates as hydrated amorphous silica most abundantly in walls of epidermal cells, but also in primary and secondary walls of other cells. It is largely available in soils and is found in water as well. Inadequate amounts of silicon can reduce tomato yields as much as 50%, cause new leaves to be deformed and inhibit fruit set. At this time toxicity symptoms are undetermined.
Cobalt
Cobalt is essential to many beneficial bacteria that are involved in nitrogen fixation of legumes. It is a component of vitamin B12 which is essential to most animals and possibly in plants. Reports suggest that it may be involved with enzymes needed to form aromatic compounds. Otherwise, it is not understood fully as to its benefit to plant growth, but it is considered essential to some animal health issues.

just wanna say thanks to this website http://www.marijuana-seeds.net/Thanks/ThankYou.htm its where i got the info for plant deficiencies above :smile:

well now you can figure out what deficiency you have.... basicall ya just gotta get what the plants missing and give it some or do the required thing to get rid of it

ie) if i had heat stress id make its environment cooler. if i had nute burn id flush my soil. same with magnesium deficiency id add some magnesium (epsom salts)

hope someone finds this usefull lol

peace again
jester88
 

Jester88

Well-Known Member
SEXING YOUR PLANT

NOTE: Pollen can travel a few km in the right circumstances.

SEXING WHEN MATURE

Female: A Female plant first starts shooting little white hairs called pistils as early as 4 weeks. As it starts to flower, more and more of these appear (a good time to change ferts to something higher in P&K around now by the way).. these eventually swell and get bigger calyxes especially with more P&K.
Male: Males generally are covered in ball shaped things in clusters thee are the pollen sacks (we refer to these as balls) watch out when they start to open. 1 male could ruin your whole grow.. unless you want to breed that is.
Hermie's: Hermie's show both traits... whilst giving you bud and pistils they also contain pollen sacks.. quite often seeding what bud it has on itself and the other plants around it...

hermie


male plant full flowering



(female plant full flowering) NOTE buds all have different characteristics but as long as theres no balls and pistils youll be right


male flowers female flowers


SEXING THROUGH PRE-FLOWERs
note stipules arent a sign of sex.

links pics below


normal pics below



(Female pistillate pick on the right)



Image courtesy of MrIto

Female (pistillate)


Image courtesy of Uncle Ben

The male preflower may be described as a "ball on a stick." However, its most recognizable feature is its absence of pistils. Sometimes, a male plant will develop mature staminate flowers after prolonged periods of vegetative growth. These appear in clusters around the nodes.

The following image shows a male plant in early flowering. Staminate flowers are located at the node between the stipule and emerging branch.

Male (staminate)
[FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica]
[/FONT]

Image courtesy of PLAYn


Image courtesy of PsycoXul

Note: The plant parts marked with an "X" are called "stipules", they appear on both male and female plants.


This diagram shows the difference (on a slightly more mature plant) between genuine pre-flowers and actual bud sites, which are - in fact different animals altogether.



From a further distance, but quite clear-cut.
I know how it is for some of the newer growers who are eagerly anticipating their first view of an actual marijuana flower. Well, this is what it looks like, play your cards right and you'll have thousands of these hairs clumped tightly together and covered in crystals that will smell so nice. Don't worry, it's coming.



thanks to all the web sites i got the pics from... and moggie whom i got some of the info from
oh
and rollitup & google too
:bigjoint:


heres some real bud pics... And maturing females... yaaay bud porn thanks google

more female buds growing


and some dried ones

a big thank you to google lol
peace out
jester88

 

kmoo

Well-Known Member
hey i think this is a really cool gesture! it's like a one stop shop and has everything a newbie needs to get started and troubleshoot.

big thumbs up man!! didn't know you were an aussie too! yay lol
 

Jester88

Well-Known Member
no probs

sorry bout some of the fuck ups i did. i got tired lol (appart from the copying and pasting i wrote it all at once). cant edit it now so its stuck like that lol.

still glad ya found it useful

peace out
j88
 

Jester88

Well-Known Member
guess i win as usual lol. time for a victory toke.

and guess what bitch youll be chopping lmfao. ull see
 

Jester88

Well-Known Member
no probs man, thats moreso what its meant for.. i grabbed the best of riu to help me lol.

saves searching for rem too hehe,

hey kmoo yes im ozzie. wanna sign my petition once i finally get my shit together lol. trying for medicalization though i dont agree with legalization sorry. for multiple reasons.

did you know most medicine suppliers are family run, battlers just trying to get by.. legalization would ruin everything even there lives. the government and tobacco companies would take over, nothing left for the little people ya know.

kinda working on a proposal now where the government wouldnt have to admit they were wrong, wed vote it in, the government wont be able to get into it (naturally theyd have people as fronmen owning shops and dispenseries though. all they have to do is let us vote basically and get a nice injection to there funds via the business trade and jobs it would create.

basically when we grow and its illegal we know the consequence if we fuck up, and he govermenrt via allowing us to vote can keep clean hands afterall its our decission, once legal it would be seen as less of an offense anyways just by natural views of the public eye if at anything if nothing else could be worked out. but basically they broke the law wheen it was illegal... hell i did thats why im always paying fines lmfao. but long story short government proved it wanted nothing t do with the plant and we the people kept it alive and made it what it is today. they have shown they dont want it and are unworthy whilst we are/have almost always been ready to embrace it with open arms.

there looking at a free way out and a nice cash injection.

i have a mini idea of how it could work but nothing in concrete just getting ready wandering whether i should take the plunge ya know. start a petition etc things like that.

moreso like the caregiver aspect with some variation. perhaps a special board that goes around approving people to be care givers on a bigger scale, like real farmers, even though we are its just this way we dont have to hide ourselves and live in fear. (community run not governmental). actively help people who need it.

hemp is not an option in what im proposing, id like to get rid of it and ultimately work the plant for all its worth thus doubling the reason for people to contribute... the medicine can go to the sc and needy if its of sufficient grade and the stalks and that usedfor all the fibrous pourposes that hemp would be. 2 birds one stone maximum profit both sides

i dream of a day i can breed and make people happy for a living without fear of prosecution....
now quote that bitches jester chronicles 2010 baby lmfao
 
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