What kind of light mj 'likes ' ? Decoded from it's reflectance ....

stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Enhancing C[SUB]3[/SUB] Photosynthesis


The capture and conversion of light into chemical energy is the start of photosynthesis. At low irradiance, the quantum yield of the system (on an absorbed light basis) is similar for all nonstressed C[SUB]3[/SUB] leaves. At high irradiance, electron transport rates reach a maximum, which correlates with cytochrome b[SUB]6[/SUB]f and ATPase contents. It was possible to increase electron transport in Arabidopsis through the expression of Porphyra cytochrome c[SUB]6[/SUB], introducing a parallel electron carrier between cytochrome f and PSI (see Peterhansel et al., 2008). ATPase regulation provides feedback control between carbon metabolism and light reactions (Kiirats et al., 2009). In a future high-CO[SUB]2[/SUB] world, C[SUB]3[/SUB] photosynthesis will be increasingly limited by RuBP regeneration, and research is needed to explore how greater amounts of cytochrome b[SUB]6[/SUB]f and ATPase complexes can be assembled, given that they contain both nucleus- and chloroplast-encoded subunits.
When light exceeds that used in photochemistry, photoprotection is activated to prevent damage. Decreasing the time it takes for photoprotection to relax could increase photosynthesis in fluctuating light (Murchie et al., 2009). Light saturation is less important for plant communities than single leaves because light is distributed between them. However, decreasing chlorophyll content would spread the light further and could increase crop solar conversion efficiency.


http://www.plantphysiology.org/content/154/2/589.full

When less is more ....
 decreasing chlorophyll content...===>>>>spread the light further.....

-multiple panels ;-)
- wide angle lens ;-)
-Not blasting With blue & red the PS systems ... ;-)
-Offering a ....Green window ... ;-)
-Shade adaptation
-etc..etc...etc....


......Enhancing C[SUB]3[/SUB] Photosynthesis......
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Manipulated Seedling/clone Photomorphogenesis =>
Rich Lateral Rooting + Enhanced Secondary Growth =>
High-growth rate passage to vegetative growth =>
Maintainance of ideal vegetative stage environmental variables=>
Healthy -vigorous plant entering reproductive phase (flowering ) =>
Manipulation of Circadian Rythm Oscillator signaling (CRY-PHY ) for enhanced flowering qualities =>
Use of appropriate light power & distribution , along with appropriate light spectrum ,for achieving max Photosynthesis Rate.=>

Less blue wls ,for higher mesophyll conductance .
Enough green-yellow wls for lower/fan leaves efficient PS and higher PS rates into deeper layers of leaf structure (deep -leaf chloroplasts) .
Enough amber & lower reds wls for middle layer canopy PS .
Enough Deep red wls for bud-leafs .
Enough Far reds ,for Emerson effect benefits & lower total PHY photoequilibrium - .

=>Other enviromental factors also kept ideal ( I.e Ta = ~25-30° C ) =>
Photo-Saturation,photo inhibition and photo respiration ,kept to minimum ,possible => ......

...=> Goal : Discover that leds can kick some serious @$$ !!!
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
And a question ,like a lone-zombie ,is searching for an answer ...

What do you do ,mate ?

You add green,amber or any other monochromatic led to the "beloved " Red & Blue' combo ?
Make the first ..30 band led light ???

.....Mua-ha-ha-ha .....

Or you go " white'n'red " ?

Seriously,mate ...


The "red & blue " combo ..
Coming directly from greenhouse applications ...)
It belongs ,only there ...
Some led companies do know that ,already ....

Plants photosynthesis responds to light between 400 to 700 nm wave-lengths with a pronounced absorption of light in the blue and red regions. Working as sunlight supplemental lighting, the Plus* light system emits light in the most efficient operative wavelengths either to extend plants "working hours" to a defined day-length or to support low intensity of natural light or cloud conditions.

In enclosed environments, were the sun is not to be seen, the Solo* light system delivers a smoother spectrum based on a mixture of red and white, enabling a more fitting replacement to sunlight. Fixtures spacing and height is configured based on demand and is made to deliver the right amount of light needed in a uniform manner, driving uniform results. Both systems can be delivered having a fixed spectrum and intensities or have a variable spectral power distribution to answer changing light needs of a growing crop or varying external light intensity and qualities.

Led Source :High power Philips Rebel
*Colors
Deep Red &

Royal Blue (Plus) or Warm White (Solo)


http://www.d-led.net/catalog/product.aspx?maincat=1&cat=16&subcat=43&prod=121
Click to expand...
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
And the journey begins :

Choose which whites ...

Now...That needs some careful thinking ...
........
And there's a banana peel ,right there, in middle of the way ...
Waiting to be stepped at ...

...'Lumens " ...
 
E

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
Most of that seems accurate.

Though, I'd lower the DR in the later stages to make up no more than 20%.

Regular red should be higher than deep red.

This is my current color mix for veg:

350-400nm: less than 1%
400-450nm: 9%
450-500nm: 11%
500-550nm: 23%
550-600nm: 21%
600-650nm: 18%
650-700nm: 14%
700-750nm: 3%
750-800nm: less than 1%

And for flowering:

350-400nm: less than 1%
400-450nm: 7%
450-500nm: 8%
500-550nm: 20%
550-600nm: 15%
600-650nm: 27%
650-700nm: 20%
700-750nm: 2%
750-800nm less than 1%

And although this is very preliminary, (my) testing has shown that the tric production is triggered by not only some extra blue around 455nm, but also green in the 500-550nm range. ;)

Also, the less you mess with the plants (i.e. flushing all crazy, defoliating like you're on a mission to destroy all cannabis, switching spectrum too much throughout the grow, etc...)

I'm not going to get into the whole flushing, defoliation and exfoliation argument, but I will weigh in on the spectrum changes. The less the spectrum changes (we're talking drastic changes, not little tweaks here and there) the faster the plant finishes.

The more it is left alone, the better it does.

3000-5000k alone, or those same Kelvins with some 580-640nm supplements, your plants will thank you. Trust me ;)

stardustsailor said:
Clones / Seedlings

Blue Range 400-499nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 410 nm , ~430 nm & ~453 nm : 20-25%
Green Range 500-550 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 550 nm : 20-25 %
Yellow-Amber Range 551-599 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 599 nm : 5-10%
Red Range 600-639 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 625 nm : 15-20%
Deep Red Range 640-670 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~642 nm & 662 nm : 5-10 %
Far Red Range 671-750 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~680 nm ,700 nm & ~730 nmm : 5-10 %


Young Plants

Blue Range 400-499nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 410 nm , ~430 nm & ~453 nm : 10-15%
Green Range 500-550 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 550 nm : 10-20 %
Yellow-Amber Range 551-599 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 599 nm : 25-30%
Red Range 600-639 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 625 nm : 30-40%
Deep Red Range 640-670 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~642 nm & 662 nm : 10-15 %
Far Red Range 671-750 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~680 nm ,700 nm & ~730 nmm : 3-5%



Early Flowering

Blue Range 400-499nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 410 nm , ~430 nm & ~453 nm : 8-10 %
Green Range 500-550 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 550 nm : 10-20 %
Yellow-Amber Range 551-599 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 599 nm : 10-20%
Red Range 600-639 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 625 nm : 25-30 %
Deep Red Range 640-670 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~642 nm & 662 nm : 25-35 %
Far Red Range 671-750 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~680 nm ,700 nm & ~730 nmm : 3-5%


Middle Flowering

Blue Range 400-499nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 410 nm , ~430 nm & ~453 nm : 8-10 %
Green Range 500-550 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 550 nm : 1-15 %
Yellow-Amber Range 551-599 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 599 nm : 5-10%
Red Range 600-639 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 625 nm : 25-30 %
Deep Red Range 640-670 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~642 nm & 662 nm : 30-55 %
Far Red Range 671-750 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~680 nm ,700 nm & ~730 nmm : 3-5%


Late Flowering

Blue Range 400-499nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 410 nm , ~430 nm & ~453 nm : 1-8 %
Green Range 500-550 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 550 nm : 1-10 %
Yellow-Amber Range 551-599 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 599 nm : 1-10%
Red Range 600-639 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 625 nm : 25-40 %
Deep Red Range 640-670 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~642 nm & 662 nm : 35-70 %
Far Red Range 671-750 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~680 nm ,700 nm & ~730 nmm : 3-5%
Click to expand...
On a side note, do any of you get a lot of spam emails? I get tons, I got one recently saying that I am an heir to some guy from "ong kong", he left me millions, and the senders name was "Brain Wilson".

With a name like that, I bet he's really smart.

smh...
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
^^^^ word!
+1000 .

I'm already noticing that 24x hyper red leds -out of 108 total-,might be way too much ....
Maybe I should have used some extra warm whites 2700 K High CRI or reds 625 nm ,instead of all that deep red power ....

I just want to see ,how the sinsemilla grown cannabis,will respond to plenty of deep red wls ,towards the end of flowering ....


 
E

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
Word...

As for blue color, we need to take into consideration that most HPS bulbs only have about 5% or less blue (with a ton of 580-635nm - which is why they do yield so well) (not to mention a bunch of unnecessary 900-1100nm)

A 400w HPS has 20w worth of blue, or maybe 50 Umol'/s at most.

A 150x"3w" LED lamp (more like 1.7w max, more on that later...) that has 10% blue diodes and an actual draw of 300w, you're looking at 30-35w of blue, or 100-150 Umol'/s+. 2-5Xs the amount of blue that an HPS has. (why even cheapo LEDs veg good, and better tric production)

(here's the math for the blue LED: 10% blue diodes of 300 = 15 diodes, at 3.3v and 630mA, they are a total of 31.185w)

One of my next tests will be an all 6000k grow vs. a 2 tone blue/red grow. I bet the 6000k will be triumphant, by more than 25%, and faster finishing time too.

2 tone blue/red usually equals too much blue in a narrow spectrum, thus not allowing plants to do their thing (but otherwise remain short and fat like many have reported)

Have you ever tested any Cyan LEDs in the 485-510nm range? That's something I've been wanting to do, as white LEDs do lack that area some more than others.

[video=youtube;oKftcqRTnXM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKftcqRTnXM[/video]
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Eraserhead said:
Word...

As for blue color, we need to take into consideration that most HPS bulbs only have about 5% or less blue (with a ton of 580-635nm - which is why they do yield so well) (not to mention a bunch of unnecessary 900-1100nm)
Click to expand...

Amen,brother ! Have been supportin' that ,all the way ....

A 400w HPS has 20w worth of blue, or maybe 50 Umol'/s at most.

A 150x"3w" LED lamp (more like 1.7w max, more on that later...) that has 10% blue diodes and an actual draw of 300w, you're looking at 30-35w of blue, or 100-150 Umol'/s+. 2-5Xs the amount of blue that an HPS has. (why even cheapo LEDs veg good, and better tric production)

(here's the math for the blue LED: 10% blue diodes of 300 = 15 diodes, at 3.3v and 630mA, they are a total of 31.185w)

One of my next tests will be an all 6000k grow vs. a 2 tone blue/red grow. I bet the 6000k will be triumphant, by more than 25%, and faster finishing time too.
Click to expand...
I agree ...Although ,I would have chosen something more close to 4000-3000 High CRI ..Neutral or Warms...
Depends on the actual led used ....Still ,way better than a B/R combo ....

2 tone blue/red usually equals too much blue in a narrow spectrum, thus not allowing plants to do their thing (but otherwise remain short and fat like many have reported)

Have you ever tested any Cyan LEDs in the 485-510nm range? That's something I've been wanting to do, as white LEDs do lack that area some more than others.

[video=youtube;oKftcqRTnXM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKftcqRTnXM[/video]
Click to expand...
Actually,it was Guod ,the first who mentioned Cyan leds (As far as I can remember ... ) ...

Would this have any benefit ?

In which way ? When ?


We should keep testing ,my brother Eraserhead ..
I'm sure that you realise that is the only way ,that we will 'evolve' our 'art ' ....
And remain 'masters' of it ....


Yes ...That is indeed the 'weakest' point of all types of Phosp.Conv. white leds ..
Cyan wls .....
Maybe do have a role ,while veg ...

Still ,plants ,really seem to thrive under the White & Red combo ....

..
BTW ....

Your new 'series ' .....
Absolutely-Sexy-Awesome !

Good-or should I say excellent ? - Job !
:hump::hump::hump:...
 
E

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
One thing I do know for sure, too much blue below 465nm makes plants unhappy.

465nm-525nm, I've yet to see anything negative.

I am very curious about Cyan color.

I'm a firm believer that plants like all visible colors, favoring 470-630nm the most, so Cyan is right in there.... I think it will do no less than contribute to yield no less than say a yellow/orange color, which has proven itself in HPS lighting.

Testing is what I do, it's my thing, I've been growing for more than 21 years, and been trying to figure out a better way of doing it for, well, 21+ years.

I've been working on developing my own LED, I've gone through a few (costly) batches of diodes. I started with a 2 set white LED, one with a 440nm chip and a 515nm + 630nm phosphor, and a 465nm chip with the same phosphor mix with higher green.

I'm almost there, my goal is to fill in that gap between 470-520nm, and have a full spectrum otherwise, favoring 600-650nm by a little.

Red + white gets it done easily, Apache Tech does it too, though theirs are slightly different from mine, although both Cree, the diodes are a different series, and different kelvins, 4000k vs 6100k. 1w vs. 5w (that part doesn't matter as much as people think it does, penetration is due to total starting power, and beam angle, plus panel size)

stardustsailor said:
Amen,brother ! Have been supportin' that ,all the way ....




Here,I do have serious doubts ,about blue wls or >4000K ,helping mj 'finish' faster ..
Blue wls ,drop metabolic rates ,really drastically ....
Plus ,plant starts to 'protect' itself .....



Actually,it was Guod ,the first who mentioned Cyan leds (As far as I can remember ... ) ...

Would this have any benefit ?

In which way ? When ?


We should keep testing ,my brother Eraserhead ..
I'm sure that you realise that is the only way ,that we will 'evolve' our 'art ' ....
And remain 'masters' of it ....


Yes ...That is indeed the 'weakest' point of all types of Phosp.Conv. white leds ..
Cyan wls .....
Maybe do have a role ,while veg ...

Still ,plants ,really seem to thrive under the White & Red combo ....

..
BTW ....

Your new 'series ' .....
Absolutely-Sexy-Awesome !

Good Job !
:hump::hump::hump:...
Click to expand...
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Eraserhead said:
One thing I do know for sure, too much blue below 465nm makes plants unhappy.

465nm-525nm, I've yet to see anything negative.

I am very curious about Cyan color.
Click to expand...
And have a talent transmittin' your curiosity ...Ehem ....
;-)

I'm a firm believer that plants like all visible colors, favoring 470-630nm the most, so Cyan is right in there.... I think it will do no less than contribute to yield no less than say a yellow/orange color, which has proven itself in HPS lighting.
Click to expand...
Agreed 1000% .

Testing is what I do, it's my thing, I've been growing for more than 21 years, and been trying to figure out a better way of doing it for, well, 21+ years.

I've been working on developing my own LED, I've gone through a few (costly) batches of diodes. I started with a 2 set white LED, one with a 440nm chip and a 515nm + 630nm phosphor, and a 465nm chip with the same phosphor mix with higher green.

I'm almost there, my goal is to fill in that gap between 470-520nm, and have a full spectrum otherwise, favoring 600-650nm by a little.
Click to expand...
Brother ,when you 'll have those leds ready ,for sure I'd like to test some .....
( Take into account while designing the red peak 'pulled back' towards shorter wl ,cause of phosphors & die ..
And re-excitation of red phosp. from both blue die and green phosp.Maybe you should try a ~640 nm peak red oxy-nitride phos.... )

Red + white gets it done easily, Apache Tech does it too, though theirs are slightly different from mine, although both Cree, the diodes are a different series, and different kelvins, 4000k vs 6100k. 1w vs. 5w (that part doesn't matter as much as people think it does, penetration is due to total starting power, and beam angle, plus panel size)
Click to expand...
Tell me all about it ....
People believing all sorts of wrong things ....
And when it comes to tell 'em the 'truth' ....

Well ....
It sure doesn't work easy ,with me ....

Anyway ...
Truth ,satisfies me, well enough ....


Keep on ,brother ..
We own the sky ...

[video=youtube;L96EwN2pTdA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L96EwN2pTdA[/video]
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
penetration is due to total starting power, and beam angle, plus panel size)..

Ya know me by now ...
Just lovin being a wise-guy ...

Slight ...hmmm...note :

starting power, beam angle, plus panel size,plus number of leds ,plus arranging-packing-of leds
will ensure a fine & even power & spectral light distribution ,over leaf canopies .

Light penetration ,is mainly depending on plenty ..plant 's 'character ' and it's environment ..
(....number/shape of leaves-branches ,LAI ,Ch A+B concentrations ,Nitrogen ,Temps,water ,reflective side walls , etc )..\

..

:-P
 
E

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
I will someday replace my all Cree's with all A51 specific LED diodes, I'm aiming for spectrum and output, so far I'm not there. 85% of being there, yes.

I sell my "do-overs" to some Ebay seller. I break even, she makes a few pennies. It's a good arrangement. I always see her selling my "do-overs" on there for a small profit.

Once the real deal diodes are done, I'll send you a batch for free, have fun with them.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
Clones / Seedlings

Blue Range 400-499nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 410 nm , ~430 nm & ~453 nm : 20-25%
Green Range 500-550 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 550 nm : 20-25 %
Yellow-Amber Range 551-599 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 599 nm : 5-10%
Red Range 600-639 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 625 nm : 15-20%
Deep Red Range 640-670 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~642 nm & 662 nm : 5-10 %
Far Red Range 671-750 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~680 nm ,700 nm & ~730 nmm : 5-10 %


Young Plants

Blue Range 400-499nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 410 nm , ~430 nm & ~453 nm : 10-15%
Green Range 500-550 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 550 nm : 10-20 %
Yellow-Amber Range 551-599 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 599 nm : 25-30%
Red Range 600-639 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 625 nm : 30-40%
Deep Red Range 640-670 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~642 nm & 662 nm : 10-15 %
Far Red Range 671-750 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~680 nm ,700 nm & ~730 nmm : 3-5%



Early Flowering

Blue Range 400-499nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 410 nm , ~430 nm & ~453 nm : 8-10 %
Green Range 500-550 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 550 nm : 10-20 %
Yellow-Amber Range 551-599 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 599 nm : 10-20%
Red Range 600-639 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 625 nm : 25-30 %
Deep Red Range 640-670 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~642 nm & 662 nm : 25-35 %
Far Red Range 671-750 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~680 nm ,700 nm & ~730 nmm : 3-5%


Middle Flowering

Blue Range 400-499nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 410 nm , ~430 nm & ~453 nm : 8-10 %
Green Range 500-550 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 550 nm : 1-15 %
Yellow-Amber Range 551-599 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 599 nm : 5-10%
Red Range 600-639 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 625 nm : 25-30 %
Deep Red Range 640-670 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~642 nm & 662 nm : 30-55 %
Far Red Range 671-750 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~680 nm ,700 nm & ~730 nmm : 3-5%


Late Flowering

Blue Range 400-499nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 410 nm , ~430 nm & ~453 nm : 1-8 %
Green Range 500-550 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 550 nm : 1-10 %
Yellow-Amber Range 551-599 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 599 nm : 1-10%
Red Range 600-639 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~ 625 nm : 25-40 %
Deep Red Range 640-670 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~642 nm & 662 nm : 35-70 %
Far Red Range 671-750 nm .Peaks pref. @ ~680 nm ,700 nm & ~730 nmm : 3-5%
Click to expand...
If you are right about this, and I think you are > 90%, how does one design a fixed light panel to accommodate the 4 stages? 'Oh, would have reped you again for this, but told I must spread it around first
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
Manipulated Seedling/clone Photomorphogenesis =>
Rich Lateral Rooting + Enhanced Secondary Growth =>
High-growth rate passage to vegetative growth =>
Maintainance of ideal vegetative stage environmental variables=>
Healthy -vigorous plant entering reproductive phase (flowering ) =>
Manipulation of Circadian Rythm Oscillator signaling (CRY-PHY ) for enhanced flowering qualities =>
Use of appropriate light power & distribution , along with appropriate light spectrum ,for achieving max Photosynthesis Rate.=>

Less blue wls ,for higher mesophyll conductance .
Enough green-yellow wls for lower/fan leaves efficient PS and higher PS rates into deeper layers of leaf structure (deep -leaf chloroplasts) .
Enough amber & lower reds wls for middle layer canopy PS .
Enough Deep red wls for bud-leafs .
Enough Far reds ,for Emerson effect benefits & lower total PHY photoequilibrium - .

=>Other enviromental factors also kept ideal ( I.e Ta = ~25-30° C ) =>
Photo-Saturation,photo inhibition and photo respiration ,kept to minimum ,possible => ......

...=> Goal : Discover that leds can kick some serious @$$ !!!
Click to expand...
I would like to address these aspects as they pertain to nutrient delivery

Rich Lateral Rooting + Enhanced Secondary Growth =>
High-growth rate passage to vegetative growth =>
Maintenance of ideal vegetative stage environmental variables=>
Healthy -vigorous plant entering reproductive phase (flowering )

As you know I have 5 grows utilizing high pressure aero to feed roots. In a near perfect environment it produces excellent results, but is extremely sensitive to environment fluctuations.

I have successfully used DWC when combining with high volume air pump/stones, BUT,...

IMO, my version of the Halo drip Ring (combined with ~ 300 gph pump + large enough rez to accommodate the number of grow pots to saturate the lava rock substrate provides an excellent environment to encourage lateral root development beginning just below the surface all the way to the bottom of the grow pot. Party cups need not apply The only issue is the holes that disperse the nutes are poorly thought out, especially the inside holes, which should aim close to the main tap root. I have plans to re-aim them using a dental drill bits.

In summation, a well designed grow medium/method is extremely important to maximize a well designed lighting system, perhaps moreso
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
^^^^ word!
+1000 .

I'm already noticing that 24x hyper red leds -out of 108 total-,might be way too much ....
Maybe I should have used some extra warm whites 2700 K High CRI or reds 625 nm ,instead of all that deep red power ....

I just want to see ,how the sinsemilla grown cannabis,will respond to plenty of deep red wls ,towards the end of flowering ....
Click to expand...
Well, you can't say I didn't try to warn you:fire:
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
Amen,brother ! Have been supportin' that ,all the way ....



I agree ...Although ,I would have chosen something more close to 4000-3000 High CRI ..Neutral or Warms...
Depends on the actual led used ....Still ,way better than a B/R combo ....



Actually,it was Guod ,the first who mentioned Cyan leds (As far as I can remember ... ) ...

Would this have any benefit ?

In which way ? When ?


We should keep testing ,my brother Eraserhead ..
I'm sure that you realise that is the only way ,that we will 'evolve' our 'art ' ....
And remain 'masters' of it ....


Yes ...That is indeed the 'weakest' point of all types of Phosp.Conv. white leds ..
Cyan wls .....
Maybe do have a role ,while veg ...

Still ,plants ,really seem to thrive under the White & Red combo ....

..
BTW ....

Your new 'series ' .....
Absolutely-Sexy-Awesome !

Good-or should I say excellent ? - Job !
:hump::hump::hump:...
Click to expand...
My intuition tells me for every point there needs to be a counterpoint (equal and opposite action/reaction), so... in my HOT5 set up I use 1-2 Wave Point Coral Waves, mostly during flower, though perhaps good for early veg/clones too http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/catalog/product/gallery/id/9246/image/15978/
 
S

SnotBoogie

Well-Known Member
Really really really nice man... Just skimmed the UV-B article and a few others...Finished an exam a minute ago so letting my brain rest for tonight i think, but i shall return to pore over this thread bongsmilie
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
The "White & Red " theory in vegging action ....
It took the plants 17 days .....
From this state =>P5066535.JPG...To reach here ,at this state => P5236596.JPG...

17 days ,@ 20/4 ,topped in between , @ peat-perlite substrate ,no added CO2 , with under ~250 Watts of leds @ plug ..

Not bad ...

[video=youtube;40MyEA72Kwc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40MyEA72Kwc[/video]
 
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