Hans Panel 56w triband led(65w total)>VS<Indagro 100 full spec induction(105w)+FIGHT!

IlovePlants

Well-Known Member
This is why someone on the led forum needs a brix tester. It allows you a rough estimate of the amount of sugar being produced if you take enough samples. It would be easy to tell whether or not certain lighting enhanced the amount of sugars saturated in the tissues. Wine makers use brix testers to test and determine a host of things. They range from $89 to around $300 for a really nice digital version.

With two identical grows; one with 660nm reds, the other without the 660s but identical wattage to the first, you would be able to make a develop a theory. Take samples 1 week apart each week of growth, boom you would get a rough estimate of sugars produced over time. Incorporate CO2 after the baselines have been established and then monitor the brix again. This would allow you to see a difference in brix for a specific amount of CO2 ppm in the air. With enough testing anyone can make standards, and as long as the instrumentation and implementation are done correct you would have viable data.

One thing that pisses me off, being a statistician, is how little fact checking actually goes on in modern science. It's almost as though people feel that more accurate instruments replaces more accurate data. An assumable theory can be applied after 100 points of data, but no true assumptions until 150 points of data, because in the spectrum of 100% if you don't have enough data a single outlier can destroy a graph/mean estimate.

At 200 points of data you will get the general idea of what you are testing, but in my opinion the scientific studies that stick in my mind have thousands of points of data from hundreds of people. This gives them a base to remove outlier data before coming to conclusions. Whenever you read those stupid polls in the news paper, remember that they usually only ask 150 people to represent an entire metropolis of voters! It's huge bullshit, and yet people will swollow any lie if it is accepted enough. Find your own truth and you will have a base of knowledge from which to build.

I think that anything that exceeds the PAR curve too drastically (at a 40w/sqft standard) can have an adverse effect on growth. In my experience with Spectras, too much 660red will drive plants into the light because it's got what plants crave, in the end you have burnt out photocells that are totally useless to you. As soon as I added Kelvin lighting it got much better, although there is an abundance of data suggesting that once you max out what a photocell can absorb, green wavelengths are then what determines growth for the plant. I think of the mid band nm's as fiber, you need more of it if your diet is extremely rich, you can get away without using it if you know what you are putting into yourself, but it helps to keep you regular.

I wish Hans would double the size of his light, replace the blues with 6500k diodes, remove 6 630s, add 4 2000k diodes, and add another 2 660nm diodes. That is more of the spectrum that I'm going to be growing with. Although, I have some theories that I hope to expand on once my light is done. This solid R/B panel has been great for postulating theories, I'm glad someone decided to buy them and test them out :bigjoint: I PSU will someday have a closet setup using 2 of the Hans' panels with that inda-grow in the midde. That would probably workout much better than using them by themselves, I've found that mixing those two types of lighting to be very beneficial.
Sincerely,
ILovePlants
P.S. Sorry for the wall of text, but I felt it relevant to the conversation. Keep up the awesome grow PSU!
 

chazbolin

Well-Known Member
Excellent post! I have to thank you for jogging my memory bro. I remember a gardener friend of mine telling me a while back that be some of the best tomato's he ever grew had brix readings above 10. I kind of forgot about that until your post. Any idea what kind of brix levels would qualify as 'excellent' in cannabis?
 

puffenuff

Well-Known Member
Nope had to shut down halfway through my last round. personal issues, wont get into why, but hoping to get all setup again around january or feb.
 

THE KONASSURE

Well-Known Member
I think you raise a good point as to the potential benefits of a hybrid design. However the 2700K induction would be the wrong direction to attempt that successfully. The existing IG phosphor blend covers 90% of the UV/B and coratenoid regions with a 80% spectral emission in the R/FR regions. The area that could be improved upon would be @ 660nm on the IG phosphor blend. It starts falling off @ 650nm and a peak @ 660 would be an improvement @ flower. But the existing blend flowers quite nicely without the added expense of supplemental lights so there would definitely have to be a cost benefit analysis to support the added investment. If the ROI on the added equipment costs made sense than the ultimate goal of an ssl hybrid would be to incorporate the physical size of the induction housing to allow for enhancement levels of spectrum specific improvements to be brought to the canopy. Could make for another nail in the HID coffin. I'm going to run it by the guys @ IG tomorrow to see what they think.
So are you saying a 5000k induction would be better ? I always thought they lacked in red spectrum ?

I have a 3000k or something like that 200w tube on it`s way to me I currently use a mix of 5700k and 2700k cfl`s along with a red/blue led set up.

I mix in all kinds of uvb cfls and stuff but I find 105w 2700k`s do the most work per watt.

I run between 200w and 400w of cfl late into flower so I hope that 1 200w 3000k induction with a hood will give me the same or better results also I hope to be able to mount it way higher then I do cfl`s.

It`s ok the light was free (inducer/driver/hood) and the tube was only 100 usd.

@Iloveplants Dude you know most led company`s will custom make you almost any light format you want right ? I`ve got into really large led chips recently 100w plus there not as efficient but easy to aim up with a 90" lens and they penetrate way more then 3w leds do.
 

chazbolin

Well-Known Member
For the same reason you don't see plant action spectra in LED diodes rated in kelvin but instead by specific wavelengths, nanometers, you shouldn't look at any of your past successes in phosphors as having a relevance in kelvin either. But that issue aside your right about the lack of red in a triphosphor 5000k phosphor blend. It's blend designed for human visual value or high color rendering (CRI) to the eye with very little emitted in the red regions to support flowering. It sounds like you've developed a wide array of lights to get you through your grows so it's hard to say what is actually being emitted. But for crop repeatability nothing beats the known stable values of your lamps spectrums and intensities.
 

mrcourios

Member
For the same reason you don't see plant action spectra in LED diodes rated in kelvin but instead by specific wavelengths, nanometers, you shouldn't look at any of your past successes in phosphors as having a relevance in kelvin either. But that issue aside your right about the lack of red in a triphosphor 5000k phosphor blend. It's blend designed for human visual value or high color rendering (CRI) to the eye with very little emitted in the red regions to support flowering. It sounds like you've developed a wide array of lights to get you through your grows so it's hard to say what is actually being emitted. But for crop repeatability nothing beats the known stable values of your lamps spectrums and intensities.
So you don't think a standard 5000k induction lamp would flower well? Indagro's light is a 4850k,is it that much different from a standard 5000k?
 

Beefbisquit

Well-Known Member
So you don't think a standard 5000k induction lamp would flower well? Indagro's light is a 4850k,is it that much different from a standard 5000k?
You should stay as close to 2700k for flowering as possible....


That being said the 4250k LED's Area51 uses are pimp as fuck.... I personally don't have any experience with 5000k light, so all my knowledge is second hand....

 

chazbolin

Well-Known Member
The visual component of these phosphors would fall in a 4800 kelvin value but that's not a region the plants absorb many photons for photosynthesis. What I do like about this blend from a visual perspective is that you can see the plants conditions early and accurately to catch signs of stress, PM, gnats, etc...but again don't get hung up on kelvin values for plant response.
 

mrcourios

Member
I found some 5000k induction lamps really cheap ($.56 per watt ) and was considering buying some.I could add some supplemental 630nm and 660nm lights for flower if they needed it.
 

Beefbisquit

Well-Known Member
Everything I've encountered either suggests that, or flat out states that, 3000-3200k neutral light contains the highest amount of PAR.
 

THE KONASSURE

Well-Known Member
Well I`m looking forward to building up the 3000k 200w induction then.

Got an email to say the tube was shipped today, but what am I going to do with all my 105w cfl`s ? lol

My new leds are just a simple 5:1 red:blue set up.

Yeah some "normal" light does help you see the plant more but you do notice how much green is in cfl`s and induction when you get used to the colour of a red/blue led mix, really when it`s on you can`t see any green from the plants because all the light seams to be being absorbed by the plants I guess.
 

chazbolin

Well-Known Member
Well this has taken a decidedly different direction from where we started. Y'all should start your own threads once you're set up and we can all share in your adventures.
 

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
Yep nice design...........add two more lumiled 660nm deep reds and two cree xp-e ww for perfection:P


ILP's cheesedream @ 38 days since germ under the Hans led panel(65watts):

View attachment 2419982View attachment 2419983View attachment 2419984View attachment 2419985.....taking her sweet time flowering/ I've got patience......the stretch seems manageable ATM======no signs of overfert from the top dress! lol soil is sooooo easy to grow in


PS's anubis kids @ 33 days since germ under the inda-gro par 100 (105watts):

View attachment 2420008View attachment 2420010View attachment 2420011View attachment 2420012View attachment 2420013....quite ahead in flowering vs the cheesedream and five days behind in age; I don't get it........the stretchy bitch is basically touching the bulb with no signs of heat stress, I may add weights to the main stalk(or snap it)

View attachment 2420019View attachment 2420020View attachment 2420021View attachment 2420022..8th day of 13/11.....getting colder/ bundle up girls!!
Now This Is What Im Talking About Willis.Brother Psuagro You Ladies Are Looking Very Sexy Unlike The Last Nasty Azz Hoes You Were Runnin Great Job.:clap:
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Hang in there brother P. That cheese is like a finicky hot bitch you met at the bar that may need to be plied with more liquor and compliments. She better give it up this week though or it maybe she's looking over your shoulder at the dyke behind you. Nothing you can do about that one either.

That annubis main stalk looks like it's ready to handle some weight. One can only hope.

peace
I bent her down like the hoe she is.................took it well:hump:

Get that induction closer to the plants dude lol.

Why does no one ever just use 2 led panels on each side and an induction in the middle and rotate their plants ? You`d get great results with just a 2700k induction light and 2 led panels or even 2 ufo`s on a smaller set up.
Yeah sounds about right...................next round I'm putting the Inda-gro on top and hanging the Hans panel on the side for reflection and extra lighting====should be killer

Beautiful plants. I'm dieing to see how they both perform throughout flower...
thank you sir...........can't wait too see your all-white led grow panel/journal...

Until you see little budsets coming in hard on each top, I would bruise the stems and bend over some of those Cheese Dream branches that are blocking out the lower stems. My last supercropping was on the 15th day of 12-12. The male passed down four distinct phases of flowering; stretch for about 15-18 days, slow budset for 25-30 days, first fruiting for 7-10 days, EXPLOSIVO! for 14-20 days (axing depends on taste). I've had pheno's ranging from 56-78 days, depending on lineage, but it's all reasonable.

In about a week she should stop stretching, although it may be a little longer since you're running 13/11. Now is the time to pretend she's still in veg. In the end you want the maximum amount of buds hanging out in the sweet spot you set up. Not trying to nag you, but I figured I would give you some seasoned advice from someone who's been growing this lineage for the last 2 years. Cheese Dreams has bad ass vigor in optimum conditions, their stems are like rebar by the third week into flowering, just like her momma. Look out for the sour gummibear cheese pheno, she's a real treat :wink:

Also, I can't +rep you, apparently I need to spread it around some more? :mrgreen:

Looking badass,
ILovePlants
Ill always listen to an expert........lst coming her way with more loops.........you have no idea how many I stole of these things from my old job:P

Hey PSU, since I can't like you in your own thread for some reason, here's a big :hug: for your work so far.

Question; does that induction put out any UVB? I got 2x 48" T8s that I'm thinking of fitting with 2x 36 watt 10.0 UVA/B bulbs and 2x40 watt Vita Light Natural light and adding that to the flowering room. But if inductions do UVB, well that could change my plans drastically. Good luck with the ladies (both types;))!
Yes the induction bulb emits some uv a/b ...........how much?? no idea........maybe chaz knows

According to what I am experiencing, some plants do not like much 660

On 1/3 plants under the same light 2 were fine with the amount of 660 I was using, however, the other, the secondary leaves clawed. I removed it 3 weeks ago and all the new secondary leaves since are flat
- normal
I still would not buy a panel without any 660nm leds in it IMO........we need more testing obviously.

This is why someone on the led forum needs a brix tester. It allows you a rough estimate of the amount of sugar being produced if you take enough samples. It would be easy to tell whether or not certain lighting enhanced the amount of sugars saturated in the tissues. Wine makers use brix testers to test and determine a host of things. They range from $89 to around $300 for a really nice digital version.

With two identical grows; one with 660nm reds, the other without the 660s but identical wattage to the first, you would be able to make a develop a theory. Take samples 1 week apart each week of growth, boom you would get a rough estimate of sugars produced over time. Incorporate CO2 after the baselines have been established and then monitor the brix again. This would allow you to see a difference in brix for a specific amount of CO2 ppm in the air. With enough testing anyone can make standards, and as long as the instrumentation and implementation are done correct you would have viable data.

One thing that pisses me off, being a statistician, is how little fact checking actually goes on in modern science. It's almost as though people feel that more accurate instruments replaces more accurate data. An assumable theory can be applied after 100 points of data, but no true assumptions until 150 points of data, because in the spectrum of 100% if you don't have enough data a single outlier can destroy a graph/mean estimate.

At 200 points of data you will get the general idea of what you are testing, but in my opinion the scientific studies that stick in my mind have thousands of points of data from hundreds of people. This gives them a base to remove outlier data before coming to conclusions. Whenever you read those stupid polls in the news paper, remember that they usually only ask 150 people to represent an entire metropolis of voters! It's huge bullshit, and yet people will swollow any lie if it is accepted enough. Find your own truth and you will have a base of knowledge from which to build.

I think that anything that exceeds the PAR curve too drastically (at a 40w/sqft standard) can have an adverse effect on growth. In my experience with Spectras, too much 660red will drive plants into the light because it's got what plants crave, in the end you have burnt out photocells that are totally useless to you. As soon as I added Kelvin lighting it got much better, although there is an abundance of data suggesting that once you max out what a photocell can absorb, green wavelengths are then what determines growth for the plant. I think of the mid band nm's as fiber, you need more of it if your diet is extremely rich, you can get away without using it if you know what you are putting into yourself, but it helps to keep you regular.

I wish Hans would double the size of his light, replace the blues with 6500k diodes, remove 6 630s, add 4 2000k diodes, and add another 2 660nm diodes. That is more of the spectrum that I'm going to be growing with. Although, I have some theories that I hope to expand on once my light is done. This solid R/B panel has been great for postulating theories, I'm glad someone decided to buy them and test them out :bigjoint: I PSU will someday have a closet setup using 2 of the Hans' panels with that inda-grow in the midde. That would probably workout much better than using them by themselves, I've found that mixing those two types of lighting to be very beneficial.
Sincerely,
ILovePlants
P.S. Sorry for the wall of text, but I felt it relevant to the conversation. Keep up the awesome grow PSU!
Awesome post............can't rep you either friend.........I can't imagine the Brix levels indoors being anywhere near the outdoor levels.......but it would be a good indicator on which way we should be heading with this tech...........Can't take this White vs Monochromatic led shit anymore!!....ha

I miss growing...
We all miss your grows brother!!..............soon enough

You should stay as close to 2700k for flowering as possible....


That being said the 4250k LED's Area51 uses are pimp as fuck.... I personally don't have any experience with 5000k light, so all my knowledge is second hand....

Everything I've encountered either suggests that, or flat out states that, 3000-3200k neutral light contains the highest amount of PAR.
Kelvin temp's are a generalized light scale........varies by a Manufctr phosphor blends.....The "Highest" PAR NW/WW comment interests me^^care to share a link friend???

Now This Is What Im Talking About Willis.Brother Psuagro You Ladies Are Looking Very Sexy Unlike The Last Nasty Azz Hoes You Were Runnin Great Job.:clap:
Thank you brother DAWG............did you catch the "GREAT" MNF game last night???? talk about LOL...this season can't end fast enough.


ILP's cheesedream @ 40 days since germ under the Hans Panel LED (65watts):

005.jpg006.jpg007.jpg....Very thirsty..........gonna give her a nice dose of warm aerated water/ RO trinity solution.....added more loops:) and tied her down yesterday..... The bitch is looking lovely

PS's anubis girls @ 35 days since germination under the Inda-gro 100(105 watts):

008.jpg009.jpg010.jpg bent the stretchy bitch down also yesterday/ very quick recovery and finally an even canopy with her sis......bushing out/ fast flower continues..........not complaining:P

004.jpg001.jpg002.jpg 003.jpg10th day of 13/11...............be safe and happy growing RIU
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
".....we need more testing obviously....<=>...I still don't like a panel with any actinic leds in it IMO........

:-P

Hans's is way ahead ..Generally speakin' ...

Well..I like most the light emitted ,when electons ,take a " dive" into chaos....
Light by Electrons Divin'.....
(or maybe Less Electricity,Dude....Lean Electron Dank ? ..Ha-ha-ha...)

Super work there,brother...
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Looking good psu. Def more sexy bitches this time around.

I just ordered an apollo 10 and for whites im using per module 2 5000k, 2 4200k, 1 10,000k and no blue leds at all. This light is just for flower

When I order the ones for veg. Im probably going to use 1 blue 460, 4 5000k, 4 6500k.

Reds of course for the rest.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
A refractometer measures how much light bends as it passes through a liquid.
n = velocity of light in a vacuum / velocity of light in medium

Can a refractometer be used to check nutrient density in plant sap?
From the Real Food Campaign Website:
Pure water at a specific temperature will bend light at a specific angle.
A wide variety of biological substances can increase solution density, and thus cause light to refract (bend) more as it passes through a watery medium:
1. dissolved minerals (salts, acids, alkali)
2. carbohydrates (simple sugars)
3. amino acids (proteins)
4. lipids (special case: oil & water don't mix; form thin films)
5. almost any molecule with covalent bonding
6. very large suspended particles (colloids)


BRIX measures the percent solids (TSS) in a given weight of plant juice&#8218; nothing more&#8218; nothing less.
BRIX is often expressed as the percentage of sucrose. However, the "sucrose" can vary widely.
BRIX is actually a sum of the pounds of sucrose, fructose, vitamins, minerals, amino acids, proteins, hormones, and other solids in one hundred pounds of plant juice.
http://publiclaboratory.org/notes/liz/6-7-2011/refractometer-measuring-nutrient-density-food
 
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