Blackstar 240W LED Dissected and Upgraded!

meharmon

Member
I've had this Blackstar 240 model long enough... time to void the warranty!
Power draw: 133W
Cooling fans: 3X 80mm 3-watt cheap, loud, decent airflow
Heatsink: 1/8 inch thick, flat aluminum plate
Drivers: 2X each putting out 96V@630mA (total ~120W going through LED array, 1.5W per LED @2.4V forward voltage average)

Upgrades:
1. Much quieter fans, each pushing ~36 CFM (should be more than current airflow)
2. High quality thermal paste (current is cheap white stuff)
3. Finned aluminum heat sinks attached to existing plate (free from old projection TV)

For heat sinks surface area is key. The difference in surface area of the new vs. old setup (only using the footprint of the heat sinks) amounts to a 560% increase.(~32 CI to ~182 CI).

At stock, the back of the heat sink measured ~20 degrees F above ambient. I hope to lower this number, which in my experience would be noticeable with just the thermal paste. The additional surface area should make a great difference, and the fans should push more air and will definitely be quieter.

Buying fans and paste new, total cost ~$25-30. Destroying warranties... priceless.
 

meharmon

Member
The Blackstar 240
1.jpg
Flat heat sink
2.jpg
Fans and drivers
3.jpg
Peeling Foil
4 Peeling foil.JPG
Foil peeled
5 Foil peeled.JPG
PCB screws removed
6 PCB screws.JPG
PCB separated from heatsink with white thermal paste
8 PCB back with thermal paste.JPG

Now we wait for the fans and paste to arrive.
Led dim:
1 LED dim.JPG
Diagram:
3 Diagram.JPG
 

meharmon

Member
Mods aren't done yet, fans and paste in the mail, but the fans will be done a few days later than the heat sinks, and should make the least difference overall. I can't comment on yield as it was paired with 400W HPS, then 400W induction. See "Kush Groove.. the Blackstar" thread for a pure Blackstar grow about 6+ weeks into flower. This is basically to address the weak points of the Blackstar heat sink design. Although adequate, it could (and will!) be better. LEDs perform better when cool :D Thanks for posting! You'll be very happy with your purchase!

The diagram pic with red letters and line denotes the layout of the board. The line divides the two sets in series fed by the 2 drivers. W = white, UV = UV(and is a 2x1 looking diode), V = blue-violet color (also 2x1), R1 = large red diodes, B = blue diodes, B1 are larger-looking blue (hard to see in lens), and the rest are all red small diodes (similar size to blue, and 1x1 of the 2x1 chips)
 

meharmon

Member
LEDs are definitely worth the money because they pay for themselves in power savings alone, but the science behind the lights is specific for our plants so you will get great results if you get a good panel and use it well! Check out dunit purple kush under 360W LED (just finished).
Yes, what kind of yields were you getting on those. I would like to know if LEDs are worth the money vs hps. BTW, meharmon, I really like your Avatar ;)https://www.rollitup.org/members/meharmon-317697.html
 

jixan

Active Member
I can't wait to see this done! Looks like it is decently straight forwared. Good Luck!!! - Subed!
 

ChronicObsession

Well-Known Member
Hey buddy, nice little upgrade you made there :) But, Speaking direct from the technology side of these panels, they are being underdriven. Maybe you like that for having a panel that will run 100,000 hours plus, but under driving doesn't help lumens out. But for you to really upgrade your ride, it would be like an engine swap. There is probably no way you can ever get the blackstar LEDs to run out their rated output ;)
 

meharmon

Member
Yeah I won't be swapping the drivers just yet, hehe. A billion tiny screws later (I only lost 2) and I have the heatsink tighter than it was initially, so I need to back them out to make them flush, OR modify the extra heat sinks, which is what I will probably do. The orange film I should have left alone, but it was more resistant to conducting heat, so I peeled that too. One thing to note in the first 2 pics you can see where one diode did not make a good contact with the board. I blame it on poor quality control, because the method of installing and soldering these basically leaves the chip hanging freely in a hole with two small tabs to solder the +/-, which in this case meant it was much deeper than its surrounding chips. On another note, someone has some splainin' to do with the numbers printed on PCB...
Film and weak contact point:
Thermal film.jpg
Closeup of weak contact and film piece:
Thermal film peel and smudge.jpg
New paste applied and... this panel is supposed to use 3W chips, so why does it say 80X2W? I call shenanigans!
New paste applied & 80x2.jpg

Now waiting on DHL :). Hope I don't fry the board for good :dunce: (in retrospect I should have just mounted the heat sinks and fans and called it good. That paste is a pain, and the film might prove to be difficult to reattach...
 

jixan

Active Member
Make sure you get some shots of the installed heatsinks and new fans before you slap that thing back together. Thanks!

Great work on the thermal paste, I have only installed it onto CPU heatsinks. One surface is enough, but 90 wow!

Someone should contact Lighthouse and ask them about the 80X2W...
 

meharmon

Member
So after cursing DHL and Newegg I realized I hadn't checked the mail in several days and, of course, there were the fans. The normal fans were very loud (I'll guess around 55-60db), while the new ones are close to 30dB, which is less than my 16" oscillating fans on low speed. The new fans also draw 40% less power, have roughly the same airflow. On a side note, LED manufacturers should use 120mm fans instead of 80mm. I could put 2 in place of these 3 fans in the Blackstar and be pushing more air over with less noise. /facepalm
Also, like an idiot, uh, I mean "in the name of science" I discovered that when you short circuit it, the last LED on the negative side (black wire) gets sacrificed. A new solder later and we're back in business! Pics coming soon, I was playing with all sorts of wacky designs for this thing (outside in, inside out looked cool!) so I'll post pics of normal configuration once I finish putting it together later today. Cheers!
 

Po boy

Well-Known Member
Florida - high heat and humidity - help
Does anyone have any way I can dry my autos that will be ready in a couple of weeks. Can't bring into the house during the drying period and am worrying about getting mold. I know the lower heat and humidity are best but I am stuck with few options. Any help highly (no pun intended) appreciated.
 

meharmon

Member
OK all done... Like I said earlier, I should have left the film and paste alone, that stuff caused major headaches. But, I ended up with a dot-grid of Arctic Silver 5 paste above and below the film, so it worked out anyhow.
Here's the salvaged heat sinks, pasted and screwed.
P5280028.jpg
Here's the new fans

P5280032.jpg

The fans are much, much quieter, as previously mentioned. For further airflow and sound enhancements, I also removed the grills:
P5280034.jpg

And here it is running with the heat sinks seen under fans:
P5280038.jpg

Final temperature readings with thermal gun show the back of the heat sink to be 4 degrees F above ambient. Before the upgrade it was about 18 degrees above. Yay!
Other thoughts...
1. Fans were too loud, and mounted with bolt and 2 nuts. I used the screws that came with the fans and it was much faster. Fans should have remove-able grills-- look at the airflow those things must block.
2. A good heat sink will keep your system as close to ambient as possible. The original heat sink is little more than a base for a real heat management solution, because surface area is very important for heat transfer.
3. Leave the film alone! But, I'm glad I saw the 80X2W, so questions can be asked.

Hope you enjoyed the show, thanks for tuning in!
 

Spoc

Active Member
I just bought a 240w Blackstar and a bit disturbed to find out it's running 80 2w LEDs WTF!!
 

haigai

Member
Anything over 1watt for LED diodes is a waste: 100x1w > 50x2w

While there is a small benefit of larger than 1watt led, the price is not worth it.
 

Millsie

Well-Known Member
Florida - high heat and humidity - help
Does anyone have any way I can dry my autos that will be ready in a couple of weeks. Can't bring into the house during the drying period and am worrying about getting mold. I know the lower heat and humidity are best but I am stuck with few options. Any help highly (no pun intended) appreciated.
Hey man, if you need your dried bud quick you can essentially drown your plants. Just put the pot in a bucket of water(for about 4days) and the tree won't be able to get oxygen and dry up the buds. This is with the lights off(on takes longer) and still air circulating... (Taken from riddleme, don't directly quote me)

Good luck!
 

meharmon

Member
I just bought a 240w Blackstar and a bit disturbed to find out it's running 80 2w LEDs WTF!!
WTF indeed! I assume they will simply say that its an older PCB, while still using 3W chips or some similar excuse, but I need to research a bit more to find out exactly what these are. Either way the panels produce well, so I hope you enjoy it! Thanks for checking out the thread!
 

meharmon

Member
Hey man, if you need your dried bud quick you can essentially drown your plants. Just put the pot in a bucket of water(for about 4days) and the tree won't be able to get oxygen and dry up the buds. This is with the lights off(on takes longer) and still air circulating... (Taken from riddleme, don't directly quote me)

Good luck!
Even if the post is totally unrelated to the topic, thanks for being helpful. I think you're confused with flushing though, because drowning the plants will make them soak up all that water, and the excess nutrients are supposed to get used up since they're starved of oxygen in the roots. What he needs is a dehumidifer, maybe in an enclosed tent? Not sure why they can't bring them into the house as that's generally more secure than outside anyhow. A piece of tin laying in the sun will dry them fast :D
 

Tripp10966

Active Member
Thats some crazy shit man I just ordered one so im not ready to void tbe warranty yet lol but good job I might need this later. +rep
 
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