First Grow - 3000w - Ebb & Gro - H&G - Sealed

B

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
Hey Knowledge, a couple of AC questions for you, if you wouldn't mind - firstly, how did that portable workout for you? I've never used one, but was thinking of getting a 14000BTU for a similar sized room (8x8, with either 2 1Ks or 4 600s).

Now here's the gist of my question - my room (actually an 8x8 tent) will be located in my garage, where temps can easily hit 110F on hot days in the summer, which makes aircooling those lights a moot point.

So, the million dollar question is:

In your mind, would a 14000BTU portable AC be able to keep my temps at 85F when the ambient air surrounding the tent is 110F and the 2 1Ks are not light-cooled?

I know you don't know "for sure", but I'm hoping you can have a guess one way or another.

Thanks for your time.
 
KnowledgeSeeker

KnowledgeSeeker

Active Member
Bob Smith said:
how did that portable workout for you? I've never used one, but was thinking of getting a 14000BTU for a similar sized room (8x8, with either 2 1Ks or 4 600s).
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Mine works great for my setup. Please keep in mind though that my room is not a "sealed room" in the strictest sense of the term. When the night temps started to drop in the fall I added and intake and exhaust for the room and put a temp sensor on the intake so that when the CHHC-1 kicks on the cooling function if the temperature outside is less that 70F the intake and exhaust fan come on instead of the AC. My logic here is that electricity is expensive and CO2 is cheap so if i go through more CO2 because i'm venting it out for cooling but use less electricity it's much better on the pocket book. Plus because the CHHC-1 is going to fill the room back up quickly the plants will only be without elevated levels of CO2 for a short period of time. That being said the AC kicks on only when the outside air is not cool enough to do the job (in NorCal that is only four months or so.)
During the hottest months the AC takes about 30 mins to bring the temp down and it takes about 45 min for the room to heat back up. My temp deadband is set around 7F. I use significantly more electricity during these months and the bill is atrocious.

Bob Smith said:
Now here's the gist of my question - my room (actually an 8x8 tent) will be located in my garage, where temps can easily hit 110F on hot days in the summer, which makes aircooling those lights a moot point.
Click to expand...
Are you running your lights at night? Is it 110F at night? First and foremost run lights at night when the ambient temps are coolest. In my mind air cooling is essential. Even if it's 75F at night that is still a lot cooler than the lights and will make the most significant impact on room temp. I'm not exactly how high the temp from the lights is but I would guess that it's above 90F. If you can cool that down with 75F air it's going to do more for keeping room temps down that anything else. So recommendation number one is run your lights at night when the ambient temp is the lowest. Recommendation number to is to run some ducting from the outside and air cool your lights.

Bob Smith said:
In your mind, would a 14000BTU portable AC be able to keep my temps at 85F when the ambient air surrounding the tent is 110F and the 2 1Ks are not light-cooled?
Click to expand...
I would have to say no. I don't think a 14K BTU portable can keep temps at 85F with ambient air of 110F and and two 1K lights that are not air-cooled.
 
B

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
KnowledgeSeeker said:
Mine works great for my setup. Please keep in mind though that my room is not a "sealed room" in the strictest sense of the term. When the night temps started to drop in the fall I added and intake and exhaust for the room and put a temp sensor on the intake so that when the CHHC-1 kicks on the cooling function if the temperature outside is less that 70F the intake and exhaust fan come on instead of the AC. My logic here is that electricity is expensive and CO2 is cheap so if i go through more CO2 because i'm venting it out for cooling but use less electricity it's much better on the pocket book. Plus because the CHHC-1 is going to fill the room back up quickly the plants will only be without elevated levels of CO2 for a short period of time. That being said the AC kicks on only when the outside air is not cool enough to do the job (in NorCal that is only four months or so.)
During the hottest months the AC takes about 30 mins to bring the temp down and it takes about 45 min for the room to heat back up. My temp deadband is set around 7F. I use significantly more electricity during these months and the bill is atrocious.



Are you running your lights at night? Is it 110F at night? First and foremost run lights at night when the ambient temps are coolest. In my mind air cooling is essential. Even if it's 75F at night that is still a lot cooler than the lights and will make the most significant impact on room temp. I'm not exactly how high the temp from the lights is but I would guess that it's above 90F. If you can cool that down with 75F air it's going to do more for keeping room temps down that anything else. So recommendation number one is run your lights at night when the ambient temp is the lowest. Recommendation number to is to run some ducting from the outside and air cool your lights.



I would have to say no. I don't think a 14K BTU portable can keep temps at 85F with ambient air of 110F and and two 1K lights that are not air-cooled.
Click to expand...
Thanks very much, sir - unfortunately, the temps in the garage stay unbelievably hot during the summer, even at night, so my new gameplan is to put a mini-split AC in there (18000BTU), and then run my flowering tent as an 8x8 sealed room, with aircooled lights, a 14000BTU portable, and a natural gas CO2 generator (going to fill up my three CO2 tanks as soon as I'm done typing this, and it's a hassle and a security risk that I'm trying to be rid of).

Pretty sure that setup should let me be dialed in pretty well.

From talking to other people, sounds like portable ACs don't work well (if at all) with intake temps >90F, so that option is out.

Again, thanks for the help, it's much appreciated.
 
naturalhigh

naturalhigh

Well-Known Member
yea i dont like that stg stuff...its better to water every 3 hours then every 8 or 6...more o2 switch out with the roots..and it seemed like it held wayy to much water.. stg is too new to try it on a proven stystem like a ebb and gro... i called and talked to them for a good bit and they didnt seem to knowledgeable with a lot of my questions i had with there product..
 
Q

Quemado

Member
So does everyone agree STG is not recommended? Would you use it again? Thanks for the pics I've been really waiting to see some real results of the STG. Nice grow.
 
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