Sure, I understand, but can you explain to me how am I burning them when the pH is 6.5? I have a digital meter and reference solutions 4 & 7 and measure it before every use. Can you explain that to me please? I admit that ACV might be a poor choice and I will look into that, but how on earth am I burning them with pH 6.5...
My Plants Are Suffering, please help!!
- Thread starter Daithy
- Start date
Sure, I understand, but can you explain to me how am I burning them when the pH is 6.5? I have a digital meter and reference solutions 4 & 7 and measure it before every use. Can you explain that to me please? I admit that ACV might be a poor choice and I will look into that, but how on earth am I burning them with pH 6.5...
Dribbles
Member
Well, I can understand how newbs get led astray reading about all these "tweaks" that are meant to increase yeild etc, but along the way they seem to forget it's no rare Orchid, it's a herbacious annual and a pretty hardy one at that. Of course, perfect conditions can produce more bud, but I have NFI why so many people are so eager to use their plants like guinnea-pigs in complicated experiments.
A healthy plant with a little less bud is > a dead plant with none.
A healthy plant with a little less bud is > a dead plant with none.
Thanks. I am not hellbent on fixing the pH. The soil has a good pH. But everyone says on the forum that the water going in has to be in the right range as well?..
Jloi
Well-Known Member
Outdoors ph isn't to much of a factor since she will provide when needed, but out side using 7.0 ph water and running it in a pot are two different things my friend. It's like pissing in a pool vs pissing in the bath tub. One can become moreconcentrate. Since we feed nutes it becomes a Krock pot , most nutes lower ph and depending on how much and what can effect and lead to a nutrient lock out. It's always wise to check the water ph, depending on the water source she can be to high
Jloi
Well-Known Member
Yes it should if you want to grow happy and limit problems. The old saying what goes in must come out dosent apply here. Every soil is mixed from factory with we'll call it a soil buffer. These buffers balance out your soil, but in time these buffrers get weak and run out due to us flushing out plants from time to time. Fox farm Uses oyster shell and a soil ph balancer . But the shell dosent last the whole grow depending on length of time. That's why it's a good thing to add dolomite line powder. Being proactive is always better then reactive. By having your ph correct allows your plants to eat right away. The wrong ph can and will lock out a certain nutrient '(s). Adding to much will also create this problem
trill3ntertain
Member
ok do me a favor as a test use A.C.V and ur water and put it on a part of ur body see how it effects u day after day thats all I'm saying. this is not feeding the fire I'm right your wrong look at everyones answers towards you lmao *kills self I'm done*
Dribbles
Member
I use regular 7.0 tap-water on my entire garden, straight from the hose even 8/
Tomatoes, Watermelons, Basil, Parsley, Thyme, Strawberries, Chillies god the list goes on but you get the idea. Half of these plants are in pots, and even the tropical plants like Baby Woodrose - potted - recieve straight-from-the-hose water, and not a plant on my backyard is looking anything less than perfectly healthy.
The only thing that chews at their health are - no, were - catapillars, and now I simply nuke them with thr most poisonous shit I can find, even they aren't causing issues.
Plants just don't care about the growers techniques. All they care about is having enough water, aerated soil, nutes and sun, and they are happy as pigs in shit.
Dribbles
Member
So don't use FF soil. Use cheap potting mix.
At the end of every grow, you should be tossing your soil regardless the brand, anyway. I toss mine on the compost to refresh for next season, but if there's no compost bin/box/whatever, then just toss the old soil after harvest. At $3-5/bag, it's hardly expensive enough to reuse after each grow, and using fresh mix means no PH issues - at all, ever.
Jloi
Well-Known Member
The last paragraph I agree with you 100%. And yes 99% of the time yes are our own worst enemies.. I've found out years ago it's better to buy what's needed right away rather then to skim out and misleading a house hold brew hopping it's the new slice bread idea.I use regular 7.0 tap-water on my entire garden, straight from the hose even 8/
Tomatoes, Watermelons, Basil, Parsley, Thyme, Strawberries, Chillies god the list goes on but you get the idea. Half of these plants are in pots, and even the tropical plants like Baby Woodrose - potted - recieve straight-from-the-hose water, and not a plant on my backyard is looking anything less than perfectly healthy.
The only thing that chews at their health are - no, were - catapillars, and now I simply nuke them with thr most poisonous shit I can find, even they aren't causing issues.
Plants just don't care about the growers techniques. All they care about is having enough water, aerated soil, nutes and sun, and they are happy as pigs in shit.
Jloi
Well-Known Member
I make my own mix , and I throw it away after every grow. I like to start fresh that way I know what's hasn't been used. I don't have a compost pile or turner. 99% of soils arnt made 100% for your needs so I always add more or include what's missing
Dribbles
Member
Well, I've always used fresh, cheap, 20kg bags of potting mix in any gardening - indoor or out - and never adjusted the PH of the tap-water going in, the run-off, OR the soil and I've not once has an issue with regular veges and herbs, or canna or tropicals that's even remotely PH related. Huge pots, little pots, garden beds: all hose-water @ 7.0.
Only thing I do is toss-in as much perlite as I feel like on the day and that's it for soil prep.
Occasionally, I'll add some vermiculite and peat moss (hate coco, and refuse to use it now even as a filler), and in summer I'll pat some spagnumn moss on top - flat-out, straight-up best mulch on earth - spagnumn moss is.
Anyway I got distracted from the original point.
Only thing I do is toss-in as much perlite as I feel like on the day and that's it for soil prep.
Occasionally, I'll add some vermiculite and peat moss (hate coco, and refuse to use it now even as a filler), and in summer I'll pat some spagnumn moss on top - flat-out, straight-up best mulch on earth - spagnumn moss is.
Anyway I got distracted from the original point.
Jloi
Well-Known Member
Grow some milk weed and cabbage next to your basil and tomatoes these two are like magnets for those fuckers, I grow tobacco in the summer time and catapillars love tobacco , cabbage and milk weed helps this problem, also a natural pest aside grow some tobacco, chop up fresh leafs and put it in water and spray your plants bugs will not come near it and if there dumb enough it will kill themI use regular 7.0 tap-water on my entire garden, straight from the hose even 8/
Tomatoes, Watermelons, Basil, Parsley, Thyme, Strawberries, Chillies god the list goes on but you get the idea. Half of these plants are in pots, and even the tropical plants like Baby Woodrose - potted - recieve straight-from-the-hose water, and not a plant on my backyard is looking anything less than perfectly healthy.
The only thing that chews at their health are - no, were - catapillars, and now I simply nuke them with thr most poisonous shit I can find, even they aren't causing issues.
Plants just don't care about the growers techniques. All they care about is having enough water, aerated soil, nutes and sun, and they are happy as pigs in shit.
Dribbles
Member
Testing the PH of the run-off will only show you the effect the soil has had on the water as it's run through it.
Just toss the PH meter in the cupboard and use un-adjusted, regular 7.0 tap water, trust me it'll be fine. Not like they could get much worse, is it?
Jloi
Well-Known Member
Daithy , your ph isnt burning them it's what nutrients are in the soil that burn plants, that's why it's call nute burn. I'm sure we can all agree what you have right now at hand is fucked up soil ph . I'm willing to bet your soil ph " is to high locking out nutes making it looked burn. If it was to low your nitrogen would be locked out making your plants yellow since there still green is what leads me to believe its to high. Flush, and stop the cider stuff , leave that for cooking
Dribbles
Member
Yeah I used to have a few tobacco plants from seeds I ordered online. Small bugs just stick to em like fly-paper, but I used them to make Chimo: a kind of tribal version of nocitine chewing-gum, but using cocoa and honey and leaves. The caterpillers *started* on the cauliflowers I had, and once i ripped them, the pillers remained.
I tried all the natural, non-toxic bug sprays for a while, but the bugs just laugh it off and keep chewing, so I've got a new method now: I use two types of chemical-based poisonous bug concentrate, but only spray plants that won't be consumed for a long time to come. I figure this way, the bugs get dead, and most of the bug spray will have been excreted from the plant(s) long before they're harvested or eaten.
futant
Well-Known Member
I always had luck using Borage to keep catapillers off of Tomatoes; never failed and makes better tasting stronger stalked tomatos also. Been tempted to plant 1 borage and 1 hyssop plant in a large square bed of Cannabis. Borage to improve stalk strength and draw pests and hyssop to increase flavor. These plants have been companions for this for ages.
Dribbles
Member
I got some borage seedlings at about two inches as we speak!
I planted them cos I read they were cucumber flavoured and could be added to salads, and only recenty googled and discovered they're companions for tomatoes
apparently the bugs literally get confused since the Borage flowers look so similar to tomatoes, and thst's how they work.Got 7 seedlings, and 5 Yellow Pear tomato seedlings who'll all share the patch
Dribbles
Member
Gotta re-pot all them later too before they start getting rootbound.
I also have some salty-ice plants that are pretty strange little plants. They are succulentish, with tiny blister-like glands covering the leaves.
when you bite a leaf, it's super-juicy like a grape but the glands on the leaves have a salty flavour, like they coat themselves in liquid salt to save you the effort of using a shaker
I grew these last year, but was away over christmas so the garden suffered. The little salty-ice plants were dead as disco when I got back.
I also have some salty-ice plants that are pretty strange little plants. They are succulentish, with tiny blister-like glands covering the leaves.
when you bite a leaf, it's super-juicy like a grape but the glands on the leaves have a salty flavour, like they coat themselves in liquid salt to save you the effort of using a shaker
I grew these last year, but was away over christmas so the garden suffered. The little salty-ice plants were dead as disco when I got back.
heelzballer
Well-Known Member
Agree completely, and would recommend repotting in real 1 gallon pots instead of those flimsy clear and subway pots lol! Also, no vinegar, trust me your soil will naturally balance to 7.0 even if your water is at 7.6...I would mix half and half fox farm ocean forest and happy frog with like 15 percent added perlite. Good luck!
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