heckler73
Well-Known Member
and here I thought my 2-3 week breaks were quasi-heroic...Well, all things considered, you managed to pull out something that physically looks decent. I guess the next round will be more telling.
Multichip LED, Remote Phosphor - Guess who it is.
- Thread starter Bumping Spheda
- Start date
and here I thought my 2-3 week breaks were quasi-heroic...Well, all things considered, you managed to pull out something that physically looks decent. I guess the next round will be more telling.
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
37.78g with 200W --- .19g/W
Not exactly hitting the mark. Hopefully my next three harvests with add up better.
First wave of perpetual flower. I've got a few clones going in veg that will be bumped into flower once they look ready.
Not exactly hitting the mark. Hopefully my next three harvests with add up better.
First wave of perpetual flower. I've got a few clones going in veg that will be bumped into flower once they look ready.
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PetFlora
Well-Known Member
The gpw unit of measure is pure bullocks. People tend to blame the panel, when in fact, if your strain grew say 1 ft taller, your gpw would be > double.
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Yeah... that gpw is pretty trash. I couldn't have smoked more than 5-10g of popcorn, there's no way around that number. My perpetual grow will be using sliced open 2-Liter bottles as pots so not a whole lot of soil there, plants should top out around 2' I'm guessing, if that. Just gotta keep the plants happy and hope they take care of me. I've begun composting in a ziplock bag with trimmed leaves, just started adding coffee grounds and other wet scraps from the kitchen, I'd really like to start making teas. Yeah, they're teeming with microbes and are a good source of nutrients, but being a natural pH buffer threw me over. I'm pretty sure Roots Organic soil is not optimum for the Chiesel strain, my girls will show early signs of over-N by the fourth or fifth node with straight water. I'm guessing if I tested my soil runoff I'd be a repeat alkalinity offender. Keeping my eyes towards fulvic acid and kelp extract; anything organic that can lower or moderate soil pH.
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
Lime...........Lime.............Lime....................is your friend and a great buffer Bumping
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Must spread rep around. :/
I literally have like three pounds of dolomitic lime. I thought that raised pH? I recently started watering with inoculant powder and I guess I can add some lime to their next watering. Hopefully we can nip this leaf curl in the bud.
I literally have like three pounds of dolomitic lime. I thought that raised pH? I recently started watering with inoculant powder and I guess I can add some lime to their next watering. Hopefully we can nip this leaf curl in the bud.
HiloReign
Well-Known Member
If I were looking at the same problem as you, I'd focus on supplementing the phyllosphere via foliar applications. I'd use coconut water/aloe (both fresh, because they're available to me right outside) perhaps everyday if possible, if not at least 3-4 times a week. Adding kelp, potassium silicate, fulvic/humic acid, ACT, FPE etc. (in moderation, of course) will only add to the benefit and make nutrients available via leaf surface. Cultivating indigenous microorganisms and applying them to both the phyllosphere and rhizosphere (and soil) will "boost" growth and not only inoculate what it comes into contact with, but will help to serve against pests and disease. I'd follow up with as much compost as you can fit on your soil, watered in with the same kind of foliars you may be messing around with that day (just to make life easier...). I'd also look into a supply of micronutrients, perhaps rock dusts or something, because when micronutrients are in low availability or depleted, other nutrients become tied up or inhibited. I suppose that can go for any nutrient, but anyhow...
I have a lot of friends who ask about what they should do to improve their veggie gardens, indoor gardens, etc. and although I am by absolutely no means an authoritative figure on the subject matter, my first piece of advice is to start composting and taking care of the worm population (or better yet raising them yourself).
Organic matter also helps as a pH buffer... I personally have never had to pH anything. Most "organic heads" gave a chuckle and offered an inside joke when I used to mention pH meters...
Sorry for the novel, hope it helps. Enjoyed the last grow, keep it up!
I have a lot of friends who ask about what they should do to improve their veggie gardens, indoor gardens, etc. and although I am by absolutely no means an authoritative figure on the subject matter, my first piece of advice is to start composting and taking care of the worm population (or better yet raising them yourself).
Organic matter also helps as a pH buffer... I personally have never had to pH anything. Most "organic heads" gave a chuckle and offered an inside joke when I used to mention pH meters...
Sorry for the novel, hope it helps. Enjoyed the last grow, keep it up!
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
Yes lime will raise your ph and cal/mag levels!!! it does help buffer "problematic" soil mixes...........to safely lower in organic most use sulfur(not aluminum sulfate), but may increase your uptake of nutes(if over fert is the issue maybe stay out of that optimum 6.2-6.5ph range) and will decrease your beni colonies slightly....
great info HILO...................+rep
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Hilo: No apologies, I'm glad you posted. Your thoughts pretty much match my own at the moment. Some one recommended pH strips to test soil run off earlier in this thread. I thought about and considered it/a pH meter, but have since decided that if I'm making teas and have a good soil microbiology I shouldn't have to worry about that.
I just found a super big ziplock bag (I have no idea where this came from, it's like a two gallon bag or some shit, it's clownishly huge) and cleared out the outdoor garden of any left over vegetative matter, including a few underdeveloped fruits which were squished/broken up inside the bag (snow expected this week, they would never finish). I also found a really nice soil/dried leaves mix on this evergreen tree where multiple tall branches came to like a horizontal intersection no more than a foot off the ground. The tree actually seemed to have roots there growing into the mix, it got more and more soil like as it got closer to the tree and there were parts so thick with roots I couldn't even feel how deep this stuff went, nor could I rip any sizable portion out since the roots were so strong. It should be relatively acidic since the soil all around those evergreens is also acidic and it's difficult to grow anything else in it. I added some charcoal which I think raises pH. Gonna mix that wet stuff into a 1gal bag with pre-dried/crumbled leaf trimmings once I've accumulated enough leaves and the wet stuff is further along in its composting process. I also have some soft rock phosphate which supposedly has a bunch of beneficial bacteria and fungi in the small pellets. I mixed those into my super soil that I'll be recycling for new grows (this first wave is straight Roots Organic).
Edit:
Didn't see you post PSU. Thanks for the tip.
I just found a super big ziplock bag (I have no idea where this came from, it's like a two gallon bag or some shit, it's clownishly huge) and cleared out the outdoor garden of any left over vegetative matter, including a few underdeveloped fruits which were squished/broken up inside the bag (snow expected this week, they would never finish). I also found a really nice soil/dried leaves mix on this evergreen tree where multiple tall branches came to like a horizontal intersection no more than a foot off the ground. The tree actually seemed to have roots there growing into the mix, it got more and more soil like as it got closer to the tree and there were parts so thick with roots I couldn't even feel how deep this stuff went, nor could I rip any sizable portion out since the roots were so strong. It should be relatively acidic since the soil all around those evergreens is also acidic and it's difficult to grow anything else in it. I added some charcoal which I think raises pH. Gonna mix that wet stuff into a 1gal bag with pre-dried/crumbled leaf trimmings once I've accumulated enough leaves and the wet stuff is further along in its composting process. I also have some soft rock phosphate which supposedly has a bunch of beneficial bacteria and fungi in the small pellets. I mixed those into my super soil that I'll be recycling for new grows (this first wave is straight Roots Organic).
Edit:
Didn't see you post PSU. Thanks for the tip.
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
You mean if I seal the ziplock bag?
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
HiloReign
Well-Known Member
Yes and no. Compost needs air to do its thing, but if you leave it open and mix it up fairly often, I don't see why it couldn't work.
An anaerobic compost will reek badly and be far too wet, at which point you know composting has stopped and rotting/decaying occurs. Just lookin' out.
Bokashi is basically utilizing phototrophic bacteria, lactic acid bacteria, and yeast microorganisms to speed up the composting process. It needs to be composted after the Bokashi process is done, also. Process takes around two weeks (before composting).
The up side to this is that you've inoculated your compost pile with those EM and most likely sped up your composting process. Down side? BUY MY BOTTLES BRO!
A lot of these effective microorganisms can be cultivated on your own at home with simple concoctions, not only saving you money but giving you a superior product to anything you can buy. They are superior because when you cultivate them on the property you will use them on, you are using microorganisms that are indigenous to where you are (rather than foreign microorganisms).
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Yeah, that's what I'm doing. Not much smell, the bag is just open in my room. I turn/mix it a couple times a day. It gets warm underneath the bag after it's been sitting for a while. I took a pair of scissors and tried to mulch a lot of the bigger stems down, and the leaves and stuff. The bag is probably 2/3 full of a pretty well mixed blend now. Definitely looking more and more soil like.
The girls in flower were thirsty today. Their symptoms of over N seem to be coming back which isn't good. I gave them some Dolomitic Lime and more inoculant powder. After I came back maybe 4 hours later there's a plant with her top leaves sticking like straight up on multiple shoots. Odd behavior. Anyone ever seen anything like this before?
hyroot
Well-Known Member
yep . It's normal iIt's a good thing. It means the stomatas are open more and processing more light. Proper spectrum and good bacteria and fungi and certain minerals can cause it. After I water or foliar spray with a tea or just top dress with worm castings that happens. A lot of times the higher par lighting does it too. When I water or foliar spray with Aloe Vera, that cause it too.
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Oh, cool. Didn't even know. So that means maybe the treatment is working. Haven't even started with the teas, there's actually a girl in the bubble cloner which is going to double as my tea brewer.
I have Aloe Vera juice. Should I dilute some and spray the girl who's sticking her leaves up?
I have Aloe Vera juice. Should I dilute some and spray the girl who's sticking her leaves up?
tags420
Well-Known Member
Normally I would agree that leaves angled up are good for the reasons hyroot said. But are a little too up imo, and when you look at the second pic that older big fan leaves on the back plant are showing some Mg deficiency, they're yellowing like N, but the veins are still green, which is Mg usually. And an other sign of Mg def is "praying for Mg", where the leaves point up. Mg help process nitrogen so if you do have a little OD of N, then Mg will help with that too.
Just a thought to check. Still looks good though.
EDIT:
And now that I look better the first pic has one fan leaf that could have some brown/rust spots on the plant you are trying to show, another Mg sign.
Just a thought to check. Still looks good though.
EDIT:
And now that I look better the first pic has one fan leaf that could have some brown/rust spots on the plant you are trying to show, another Mg sign.
hyroot
Well-Known Member
yeah. Make sure the aloe juice is organic. Does not have citric acid. I use aloe straight from the plant. Puree leaves and strain and dilute with water. You can buy aloe powder too. It's pricey though. Check the recycled living organics thread in the organic section.. Its a sticky thread too. Look into starting a worm bin. Make your own castings and compost.
those are not signs of mag def. Thats usually too much N. Mag def is bright yellow tips and edges. Rust spots is cal def.
I do see mag def or potassium def on one plant though. Potassium def is yellowing and browning edges at the same time. Cal def can cause potassium def too.
tags420
Well-Known Member
I see the clawing...N OD for sure. But I also see a few different Mg signs that seem worse/farther along than the N. If Mg isn't there the N can't be used properly.
Mg is like the girl who goes to the bathroom with all the others. They can't do their business without her(Mg).
Magnesium deficiencies in cannabus occur more often relative to other deficiencies. Magnesium deficiency in the root environment can also occur when magnesium levels are normal or high as well as when there is a deficiency. This is because absorption can be slowed down by all sorts of circumstances.
Some of these are:
It is just something I noticed and didn't want him to forget to think of all possibilities. Mg is a very common problem with led's for some reason. Just worth a check.
Mg is like the girl who goes to the bathroom with all the others. They can't do their business without her(Mg).
Magnesium deficiencies in cannabus occur more often relative to other deficiencies. Magnesium deficiency in the root environment can also occur when magnesium levels are normal or high as well as when there is a deficiency. This is because absorption can be slowed down by all sorts of circumstances.
Some of these are:
- A very wet, cold and/or acidic root environment.
- High levels of potassium, ammonium and/or calcium (for example a lot of lime in the tap water or lime rich, clay ground) compared with the magnesium levels.
- Limited root system and a heavy load on the plants.
- High EC in the medium, inhibited evaporation.
It is just something I noticed and didn't want him to forget to think of all possibilities. Mg is a very common problem with led's for some reason. Just worth a check.