Water Cooled Lights! Liquid Lumens! Fresca Sol!

What to buy?

  • FRESCA SOL!

    Votes: 19 30.6%
  • LIQUID LUMENS!

    Votes: 19 30.6%
  • OTHER WATER COOLED LIGHT SYSTEM!

    Votes: 5 8.1%
  • I HATE WATER COOLED LIGHTS!

    Votes: 19 30.6%

  • Total voters
    62
  • Poll closed .

1freezy

Well-Known Member
This post is looking for anyone who has used liquid cooled lights. Or anyone who is interested in them! If you have any links to liquid cooled threads please post!

BUDGI posted a comment to my pic gallery, suggested the 'Fresca Sol' water cooled cooltubes.



I think these are great stuff and they would give you viable options for a powerfully lighted op when you just don't have the practical ability to sustain moving about 200CFM worth of air through air cooled cooltubes.

Fresca Sol Home*-*Best Coast Growers

NEXT IS LIQUID LUMES




The Hydroflector Hybrid is a clever but simple design, consisting of twenty different parts working together to forever change the way you cool your garden. With minimal effort, it can be retrofitted to be used in almost any existing hood already designed for 8” air cooling, or consumers can purchase the unit already installed in a customized hood.​

Designed to remove unwanted bulb-heat, the unique liquid-cooled design is not only incredibly effective, but completely safe when installed per the manufacturer’s instructions. The efficiency of the design allows you to install more lights per square foot, and decrease the distance between your lights and your plant canopy. Both result more lumens absorbed by your plants, which in turn results in greater garden yields.​

The cooler the water you have pumped through the unit, the closer you can place your lights to your plants; it’s completely up to you. In one of our lab tests, we were able to move two 1000W lights to within 5” of the plant canopy. This was using only a 55 gallon reservoir chilled to 65 degrees F with a ¼ HP chiller.
Another added benefit is the decrease you’ll see in your electric bill, for several reasons:​

Chiller Downtime
While a ¼ HP chiller draws about the same amount of power as a typical 8” fan (3.6A for the chiller vs. 3.8A for the fan), the fan runs continuously while the chiller’s compressor only comes on periodically. Every minute the chiller’s compressor doesn’t run is a minute you’d have been paying for the fan to run.​

No Bulb Heat
After a few hours running, the glass on the bottom of a typical 1000W air-cooled set up is usually between 120 and 130 degrees F. With the Hydroflector Hybrid, after 8 hours of running continuously with water chilled to 65 degrees F, the inner surface of the glass won’t exceed 80 degrees F. Imagine the savings with your air conditioner not having to work so hard to cool your garden room. Also, as most know, the better the temperature inside your garden room is controlled, the better the crop yield in both quality and quantity.​

Lumens Efficiency
For every inch that the bulb is removed from your plants, the lumens output decreases dramatically. Under the right conditions, using the Hydroflector Hybrid, you can move your lights so much closer to your plants that you can switch to 600W lights and achieve the same results.
What is most unique about the Hydroflector Hybrid is it’s flexibility. It can be water-cooled, air-cooled, or both at once and there is quite literally nothing else like it in the world. The primary cooling function of the HH is driven by chilled water piped to and through the unit using ½” i.d. flexible heavy-duty tubing. The air cooling was included for use under extreme conditions (small enclosures, grow chambers, big operations, etc.) and should rarely be necessary. Air cooling can be accomplished by ducting air through a 4 ½” center tube that houses our patented, polished aluminum, one of a kind socket bracket assembly. The socket assembly bracket is designed so all the wiring connections are inside the housing protecting this connection from UV damage. The bracket also is fully adjustable so that you can center any bulb size within the unit.​

The center tube is positioned inside of a larger tube, both borosilicate glass, with water running between the tubes. The ends of the tubes are held together with rubber gaskets and ABS plastic end caps. The unique custom made gaskets are wedge shaped, and wrap around the edge of the glass giving it a three sided seal that locks the gasket into the end cap. The pressure that is needed to pull the end cap in place is supplied by the flange collar that clamps on the outer tube, which has an EPDM liner to ensure a good grip on the glass. The end cap is held to the flange collar by six 1” stainless steel ¼ x 20 bolts, washers, and nuts. The flange collar is designed for the nuts to recess into it, so there is no need to use a wrench for these, thereby easing assembly. The plastic parts are made with rugged abs plastic with the highest recommended amount of UV inhibitor, ensuring years of problem free operation. There are also 4” duct covers to use when air-cooling is not needed. The water nozzles, which are black nylon, are ½” OD to ¼” NPT threads and can easily be swapped out if a different tubing size is used. The lamp cord is brought into the unit through the end cap and secured with a watertight connector.
The unit completely assembled is very water resistant from the outside (protecting your lights from overspray during watering), and offers a multitude other safety measures as well. In the highly unlikely event of gasket leakage, the drain feature on the end cap will ensure that no water ever touches the bulb. However, because the impossible is sometimes possible, we also recommend that you use a GFCI plug, breaker, or interrupter that plugs into the wall inline with your ballast power cord. If the unit isn’t assembled properly and water does somehow come into contact with the electricity, the GFCI unit will cut power immediately. The GFCI can be purchased through Liquid Lumens, as can a flow meter that can also be plugged inline with your ballast cord. The flow meter will cut power to your system in case of pump failure.​

By far the greatest accomplishment of the Hydroflector Hybrid is that you have choices. You can decide which reflector to use. You can decide on how many lights you want and not be limited by the heat they produce. You also have a choice with the way you cool the unit, water, air or both. Your choices in means to cool your water are nearly limitless as well; the simplest solution is a chiller and a small reservoir, but it can also be done with just a large reservoir buried in the ground to take advantage of the cooler earth. The water can also be piped outside to a radiator (heat exchanger) and cooled with night air. Whichever you choose you will be impressed with the cooling capabilities.​

Last but not least all of our parts are proudly manufactured in the USA.​


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Any veiws positive or negative!​

I know some one who made there own but it was half ass. He dipped about 14feet of house in his pool and the water came up cool again!​

 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
If you're going to steal my writing without credit, at least use my WHOLE opinion:

If you absolutely cannot remove heat via an air cooling system, the "Fresca Sol" water cooled light will do very well, for sure.

Keep in mind that the makers say you need 50gal (189L) of water per 1000W light. I simply would not have room in my op for 378L worth of tanks for cooing lights.

However, the complexities and necessary maintenance of a water cooling system make it a 2nd best choice to air cooled cooltubes. Air cooled tubes need dusting once a year or so- that's about it.
Also, who is BUDGI and why do most of that user's posts spam up these water cooled tubes?

Why is a forum post worth replicating an advertisement in its entirety?
 

Streetsk8

Well-Known Member
what liquid cooling ?
arent liquid cooling for computer !!
anyway
that bulb is water proof ?
wow amazing
we all get scared to break those fukin light with humidity
and they make some going in water
that amazing
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
No Bulb Heat
After a few hours running, the glass on the bottom of a typical 1000W air-cooled set up is usually between 120 and 130 degrees F. With the Hydroflector Hybrid, after 8 hours of running continuously with water chilled to 65 degrees F, the inner surface of the glass won’t exceed 80 degrees F.
What crap. My air-cooled cooltubes' surfaces- ABOVE the lamp- don't exceed 28C. I can lay my hand on them all day long.




Chiller Downtime
While a ¼ HP chiller draws about the same amount of power as a typical 8” fan (3.6A for the chiller vs. 3.8A for the fan), the fan runs continuously while the chiller’s compressor only comes on periodically. Every minute the chiller’s compressor doesn’t run is a minute you’d have been paying for the fan to run.
Where the hell are they getting the idea that a cooltube blower takes 3.8 amps to run?! The Allvent A60 pushing air through my tubes draws 35W- that's 0.145A (145mA) at 240V or 0.291A (291mA) on 120V. A "1/4 HP chiller" which draws 3.6A @ 120V is consuming 432 watts! That's enough for a 400W HPS!

Don't believe every sales pitch you read.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
what liquid cooling ?
arent liquid cooling for computer !!
anyway
that bulb is water proof ?
wow amazing
we all get scared to break those fukin light with humidity
and they make some going in water
that amazing
The water-cooled tubes have an inner and outer tube. Water does not touch the lamp... unless one of the seals leaks... and then all hell breaks loose.
 

abudsmoker

Well-Known Member
the liquid lumens light tube was designed and released from my city, i know the originator, however Tom of TX hydro bought rights to this and sold rights to hydrofarm.

This unit is in mass production but is highly flawed and the heat removal is less than desireable.

To the adverage consumer it will cost over 1400.00 cool tube reflector chiller and so on.....


ABUDS review save your money!!!!
 

panhead

Well-Known Member
The water-cooled tubes have an inner and outer tube. Water does not touch the lamp... unless one of the seals leaks... and then all hell breaks loose.
Thats what would have me worried,all it would take is for something to be slightly out of whack & the grower would be fuct , i couldnt resist such an easy one :mrgreen:.

It also occurs to me every time i see this spam that setting up the liquid cooled system would not be fast nor easy,at the very least it would require a dry run without power & with the cooling system running for a few days before powering it up.

Cool tubes are a way better option all around,running water overhead in a grow op is a blueprint for disaster if you ask me.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
yep, it really does look like an accident waiting to happen. Interesting that the maker recommends a GFCI. At least the water jacket would contain the glass shards and mercury from the exploded HPS bottle, should the water jacket leak internally. That way you can chuck it all out in one go. :D

Seriously, these things are probably useful to someone who has their op in a windowless concrete block bldg with no way to run air cooled tubes. However, most folks in normal residential bldgs can use air cooled tubes.
 

panhead

Well-Known Member
Imagine the comments the police would make to the media & the news coverage the media would devote to a grow op bust using water cooled lights.

I can see the headlines now.

High tech drug empire using MIT technology & producing super mj with 43,000 times the potency over regular street mj taken down after a 3 year investigation.

More facts as soon as we can dream them up,tune in at 11pm to see the details.
 

ACSCorp

Well-Known Member
I totally agree!:hump:

No way would I go this route. Water + Electricity + Hot HID lamp = DISASTER!
 

1freezy

Well-Known Member
If you're going to steal my writing without credit, at least use my WHOLE opinion:



Also, who is BUDGI and why do most of that user's posts spam up these water cooled tubes?

Why is a forum post worth replicating an advertisement in its entirety?
My bad it was late and I was sleepy. Al B. is my inspiration and a big contributor to this post!---THANKS----

BUDGI is probably the manager of a commission only HYDRO STORE!
 

1freezy

Well-Known Member
the liquid lumens light tube was designed and released from my city, i know the originator, however Tom of TX hydro bought rights to this and sold rights to hydrofarm.

This unit is in mass production but is highly flawed and the heat removal is less than desireable.

To the adverage consumer it will cost over 1400.00 cool tube reflector chiller and so on.....


ABUDS review save your money!!!!
I was at a store where the Fresca Sol was set up! I was intrested in the fact you can have your 1000w light 3 inches from your plant. I know you can't cover that big of an area but still I think growth would increse alot.


Thats what would have me worried,all it would take is for something to be slightly out of whack & the grower would be fuct , i couldnt resist such an easy one :mrgreen:.

It also occurs to me every time i see this spam that setting up the liquid cooled system would not be fast nor easy,at the very least it would require a dry run without power & with the cooling system running for a few days before powering it up.

Cool tubes are a way better option all around,running water overhead in a grow op is a blueprint for disaster if you ask me.
By Cool Tubes does he mean T5s? Yes it does seem like a lot of work and an accident waiting to happen!
 

ACSCorp

Well-Known Member
By Cool Tubes does he mean T5s?
Nope. Cool Tubes are pyrex tubes with the HID contained inside. A fan vents air through the pyrex tube thus cooling the HID and ventilating the hot air out of the grow room. East to make and they work quite well!.

The 4th post in this thread shows one (Al B. Fucts second post). That's just plain old air going through that.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
I was at a store where the Fresca Sol was set up! I was intrested in the fact you can have your 1000w light 3 inches from your plant. I know you can't cover that big of an area but still I think growth would increse alot.
You can do just the same with an air-cooled cooltube- for about 15% of what is being asked for the much more complex water cooling system.

Mind you, even with cooltubes, 3" is far too close and as you said, makes the coverage area pretty small.

These cockmonglers are total liars when they cite the performance characters of their competition, air-cooled cooltubes. Air-cooled tubes' surfaces stay well under 30C and it definitely does NOT take anything close to 456W to run a cooltube blower.

By Cool Tubes does he mean T5s? Yes it does seem like a lot of work and an accident waiting to happen!
no. T5s are fluorescent tubes.

Cooltubes are glass enclosures for HID lighting with facilities for air ducts attached.
 
Last edited:

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
My bad it was late and I was sleepy. Al B. is my inspiration and a big contributor to this post!---THANKS----
When you quote someone else's writing, you ALWAYS credit the source, right along with the quotation.

When you post someone else's writing as though YOU had written it, it's called plagiarism- literary theft- and it's a REAL quick way (around these parts) to being fully disrespected. Do it as part of schoolwork and you may find yourself expelled. Do it as part of a job and someone may sue your (or your company's) socks off. The writer OWNS those words.
 

1freezy

Well-Known Member
When you quote someone else's writing, you ALWAYS credit the source, right along with the quotation.

When you post someone else's writing as though YOU had written it, it's called plagiarism- literary theft- and it's a REAL quick way (around these parts) to being fully disrespected. Do it as part of schoolwork and you may find yourself expelled. Do it as part of a job and someone may sue your (or your company's) socks off. The writer OWNS those words.
Sorry I skipt high school for college so etiquettt is something I didn't learn mcuh of! But for you I'll make the effort!
 

1freezy

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the input everyone.


The other issue in this topic is-- When the air cooled lights get cooled don't they blow out hot air through an exhaust. I know this is a concern for a lot of people on here or so I've read. Whether it is a true concern I don't know. My T5s do me fine. I have read a lot of posts with heat concerns in the past for many reasons. The last week or so I have seen a lot of people being paranoid about a show where the LAW was using inferred and was surprise they didn't worry about this before they saw it on TV. If your informed you will worry or you wont. I knew about this before and then saw it on TV still don't worry but once again I have T5s and grow legally.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
FLIR (forward looking infra-red) is not an xray. It is a surface temperature thermometer. FLIR displays objects in a false colour related to their surface temp. FLIR cannot see through walls, but it can display warmth from an op on the outside surface of a poorly insulated wall.

Looks like this:



If you ran a cooltube exhaust direct to outdoors, the warm outlet would glow on the FLIR screen as it would be warmer than neighbouring objects. The warm air itself doesn't show up, but the objects it transfers its heat into do show up.

Stealth aircraft minimise their thermal signature by mixing their exhaust gases with cooler air. In the same way, you can minimise your op's thermal signature. Just put the warm air from your op or cooltubes into an intermediate airmass such as an attic, a spare room or crawl space. This mixes the warm air with cooler air and it then is dispersed through building vents.

FLIR is really not much to worry about, particularly if you only have a couple thousand watts of HID light. I'd be a lot more worried about a nosy neighbour who notices fan noise.
 

panhead

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the input everyone.


The other issue in this topic is-- When the air cooled lights get cooled don't they blow out hot air through an exhaust. I know this is a concern for a lot of people on here or so I've read. Whether it is a true concern I don't know. My T5s do me fine. I have read a lot of posts with heat concerns in the past for many reasons. The last week or so I have seen a lot of people being paranoid about a show where the LAW was using inferred and was surprise they didn't worry about this before they saw it on TV. If your informed you will worry or you wont. I knew about this before and then saw it on TV still don't worry but once again I have T5s and grow legally.
Spreading the heat out before venting is the best way to go & not a very hard task to accomplish.

I find it funny that a bunch of guy's are freaking out over that useless show,the guy running that grow op got himself busted,he looked like a thug,kept his house looking like shit & his neighbors hated his gut's,the flir shown on tv was for dramatic effect,his neighbors turned him in & i would to if he lived next to me,the filthy bum.
 
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