Help, Leaves dying
- Thread starter ralf
- Start date
Thanks for the reply Kack Harer, your absolutely correct in that those leaves do indeed crumble when you take hold of them, they are truly bone dry.
So it looks as though (Botanicares Cal-Mag) is the cure, but i am not sure if i can buy that in the UK, i'l have look around the net and see if i can find some, should i still flush the plants first????
samchesser
Active Member
It would help if you stated what you are feeding the plants, my initial reaction would be that you added bloom boosters (something like 5-50-20) to your nutes and you fried the plants. I would flush them for a day or two and then go half strength and don't add the bloom boosters if you were.
I've personally had that happen using dry koolbloom at half strength...whatever it is the solution is to flush them.
I've personally had that happen using dry koolbloom at half strength...whatever it is the solution is to flush them.
It just came out of the blue, one day they were spot on, as fit as butchers dogs, as they say, then i knoticed just a the tip of the odd leaf here and their getting a faun'y colored tip and then gradually over the next six days or so they ended up as you see in the photo's.
I am not sure what you mean by ferts, i assume that you mean plant food, is that correct? If it s, then i am feeding my plants on Canna coco A and Canna Coco B and also Canna boost accelerator, all at the rate of 40ml per ten liters, as recommended on the bottle. This gear is highly recommended by people in the know. Have you heard of it?
Some thing has just hit me, i am thinking that this started about six days ago, although my memory is not very good and i also, upped the feeding rate by an extra pint per day at about the same time as this started, its probably just a coincidence, i would not have thought that 1 extra pint a day would make this much difference, although i did stop giving the extra pint as it started running out of the bottom of the pots.
Yes i think thats how it works out.
I have just checked the bottle instructions and says 40ml as a maximium, which is exactly what i have fed them, the only thing that has altered is the extra (pint) per day i gave them, for about three days, then went back to just 5 pints per day.
Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
Well it dose sound like a fert issue, maybe you locked them up. I would still get the cal/mag to assist in future grows and maybe this is the problem. I can only suggest a good flush then reapply weaker nutes. I grow in soil so am not sure wether or how to flush coco but that is my best guess here. Others will advise better for coco but i do know it sucks up some cal/mag before letting the plant have some but if you have gone a whole grow without it and no problems then i wouldnt see this as your problem. Take advice on how to flush coco and see if that works. Reapply weaker nutes after the flush so the plant dosent starve. Last few weeks of flowering back of the nutes a little not increase them. Peace
samchesser
Active Member
Re: how to flush... just ph some water and run it thru your coco to "flush" out everything thats in there. then feed it plain ph water a few times on your normal watering schedule. that'll clean it out. The go 1/4 to half strength with your normal nutes for a few days then back up to full by the end of the week. that should stop whatever is doing this. You probably have an overaccumulation of nutes in your coco or a ph issue, either way you need a flush. Its unreasonable to think a defieciency did that much damage in that short a period of time. You can include some cal/mag in your 1/4 strength if you think it might be that but cleaniing your medium is essential before you start adding things cause you could just be making it worse.
Plus, sounds like your ph meter won't give you a number, bad ph will lock nutes out, you can buy drops at pool/hydro/aquarium stores really cheap and they are extremely accurate. just get it a pee yellow color and your good.
Plus, sounds like your ph meter won't give you a number, bad ph will lock nutes out, you can buy drops at pool/hydro/aquarium stores really cheap and they are extremely accurate. just get it a pee yellow color and your good.
HankDank
Well-Known Member
now im no expert at this, im on my first grow myself. But i've been doing alot of researching and looking at other peoples journals and what not for months, and just going to suggest, if your using soil, you could be having a salt build up which is causing the nute lock out. Just suggesting this as i've come across people who had the same issue and this turned out to be their problem
Thanks for the reply samchesser, Your correct about the ph meter, i bought it locally, it was very cheap at just under £4, i will get a better one as soon as i can find one, am i right in thinking that you can buy a digital one these days? Or could you recomend a good one? Or could anyone else recommend a good ph meter make?
Can i ask you, what ph water is?
Couldi ask what your using now Kingrow1, and why do you want to use Coco? Have you heard that its good? Sorry about all the qyestions, but i am keen to learn.
Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
Coco holds pH fine i was told.
Throw that pH meter away, do not even check pH till you get a digital meter. You cannot read soil pH when growing in soil throught collecting and testing runoff, only find out when built up salts get to toxic levels and you need to flush, pH is overated and overhyped.LOL!
Throw that pH meter away, do not even check pH till you get a digital meter. You cannot read soil pH when growing in soil throught collecting and testing runoff, only find out when built up salts get to toxic levels and you need to flush, pH is overated and overhyped.LOL!
samchesser
Active Member
ph'ed water means you tested the ph (acid vs alkaline) of your water and it falls between 5.5-6.5. outside that range and nutrients are locked out or unavailable. I personally use drops but for 10-20 you should be able to buy a digital one. either way you need to know what your ph is.
You need to flush with water that is 5.5-6.5 and then make sure the dilluted nute solution you feed it is ph'ed to the same range. Given you only have colors on your meter, bad ph would be a good guess as to the cause of your problem. I don't think you'll have any problem getting your flowers thru the last two weeks if you flush them immediately.
I thought you were using coco for medium in your grow but if you're not, flushing should work about the same regardless of the medium you're using. If you're in soil, ask some specific advice for soil although i think running about 2x the volume of your pot is probably the right thing to do.
You need to flush with water that is 5.5-6.5 and then make sure the dilluted nute solution you feed it is ph'ed to the same range. Given you only have colors on your meter, bad ph would be a good guess as to the cause of your problem. I don't think you'll have any problem getting your flowers thru the last two weeks if you flush them immediately.
I thought you were using coco for medium in your grow but if you're not, flushing should work about the same regardless of the medium you're using. If you're in soil, ask some specific advice for soil although i think running about 2x the volume of your pot is probably the right thing to do.
Kingrow1
Well-Known Member
I found this for coco and pH, why i want to change soon.
Coco and PH
The buffering process also means easy adjustment of pH in the Coco, which is imperative when it comes to the optimum uptake of nutrients throughout the plant’s life.
Soil PH can be hard to change, since it takes time to correct, flow check and restore. It takes longer to correct the problem in soil, than it took to cause it.
The PH of fresh Coco is marked on the bag from 5.0 - 7.0, however all of the coco I've tested was always between 6.0 - 6.5. Changing the PH of Coco takes a few waterings of pH-adjusted water, perhaps only one. The medium is very reactive to the PH of the water given to it; this gives coco growers rapid control over pH.
What is important is that you use 6.0 - 7.0 pH water, 6.5 being optimal if in pots.
Ph is different in soil, whoever says you can read soil pH from runoff has been mislead, runoff tells you of salt build up, more salt more acidic runoff, flush and it goes back to original soil pH, only lime will change PH in soil, dosent matter what pH your water or ferts at, pH8 or pH5 is ok in soil if the soil pH is between 6.3 and 6.8. Peace
Coco and PH
The buffering process also means easy adjustment of pH in the Coco, which is imperative when it comes to the optimum uptake of nutrients throughout the plant’s life.
Soil PH can be hard to change, since it takes time to correct, flow check and restore. It takes longer to correct the problem in soil, than it took to cause it.
The PH of fresh Coco is marked on the bag from 5.0 - 7.0, however all of the coco I've tested was always between 6.0 - 6.5. Changing the PH of Coco takes a few waterings of pH-adjusted water, perhaps only one. The medium is very reactive to the PH of the water given to it; this gives coco growers rapid control over pH.
What is important is that you use 6.0 - 7.0 pH water, 6.5 being optimal if in pots.
Ph is different in soil, whoever says you can read soil pH from runoff has been mislead, runoff tells you of salt build up, more salt more acidic runoff, flush and it goes back to original soil pH, only lime will change PH in soil, dosent matter what pH your water or ferts at, pH8 or pH5 is ok in soil if the soil pH is between 6.3 and 6.8. Peace
