Way to much ph up

It's 5 o'clock somewhere

Well-Known Member
I started trying to ph my plants with the kit I got from the indoor grow shop in town but with lack of knowledge on it I screwed up royaly. The package doesn't specify how much it takes to up or down so I gussed, big mistake. I also had added the nutes before I tried to test it, another mistake. Now I know to ph the water then add the nutes. Most of my plants went yellow and 2 of them have almost died. I should have used only a few drops in a gallon of water and I used almost a 1/4 cup! because with the nutes I couldn't get a match on my color scale. I should have thrown it out and started over but I watered with it anyway. Several of my plants went yellow on bottem and then on the new tops. 2 plants actually burnt the new leaves. I've started flushing with 6 to 6.5 ph water and no nutes and I've seen a small improvement in just 2 days. I'm hoping they all pull through but I thought I's post this so someone else doesn't make the same mistake I did.
 

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wow...sorry to hear that. Have you tested the PH of the run off to see if the ph has come back down?
 
you're crazy

1 drop of advanced nutrients PH-Up raises it by like 1 point... it doesn't tell me exactly how much to add so that is a pain in the ass
 
I have not tested the run off yet. I figured I'd flush for a week with the 6 to 6.5 ph water before I tried anything with the nutes again. I've put in some pics of the initial grow cup and how I prepare the new pots. Also I was told by the guy at the indoor grow shop to not use miricale grow but as I've been reading other posts I decided to mix 1 part to 5 parts of the fox farm. As I said several of my plants are fine and growing like crazy in just 3 days in their new home. They were sprouted on jan 6th and transplanted on th 4th. They have had three pinchings and have bushed out very well. I know it has taken away from the height and the growing energy has set them back by a week or two but I only have 4 feet in which to grow and I belive these are sativa which tend to grow tall so I wanted them short and bushy. When should I try to clone to determine the sex? I may transplant when the weather warms but right now it's snowing outside.
 

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I started trying to ph my plants with the kit I got from the indoor grow shop in town but with lack of knowledge on it I screwed up royaly. The package doesn't specify how much it takes to up or down so I gussed, big mistake. I also had added the nutes before I tried to test it, another mistake. Now I know to ph the water then add the nutes. Most of my plants went yellow and 2 of them have almost died. I should have used only a few drops in a gallon of water and I used almost a 1/4 cup! because with the nutes I couldn't get a match on my color scale. I should have thrown it out and started over but I watered with it anyway. Several of my plants went yellow on bottem and then on the new tops. 2 plants actually burnt the new leaves. I've started flushing with 6 to 6.5 ph water and no nutes and I've seen a small improvement in just 2 days. I'm hoping they all pull through but I thought I's post this so someone else doesn't make the same mistake I did.


I always check pH after the nutes are mixed. The nutes will change the pH!!

S-Town
 
Well, I'm on my first grow and its hydro so I'm still new (but have been reading everything I can for the past few months). In hydro, I add my nutes first and then adjust the PH because the nutes will change the ph. I don't know if it is different with soil.
Ph has driven me crazy in my hydro system because I have to adjust it 3 times a day and just can't keep it down. I have now started a couple of clones in soil to see if that will work any better for me but, I am in no way giving up on hydro because the plants grow like crazy.
I've read a lot on here about clones but, don't seem to be having a lot of luck keeping them looking pretty (I use a humidity dome). They turn yellow on me but, do eventually get roots. Just for the hell of it I took a clone and put it in a cup of water with 1/4 nutes. Its been in there for just over a week and is just as green as it was the day I put it in there. I found a new way to clone using a wick system and think I'll be trying it next. Here is the link if you're interested:

Fool-Proof Cloning -- CHEAP ! - 420 Genetics
 
I will need a meter I guess, I'm red green color blind and after I add the nutes I can't get it to match anything on the color chart. That's what got me in trouble in the first place. After spending $650 on my set up I guess another $100 for a meter won't kill me, but loosing the whole crop would! Thanks for the info and I will keep this string updated with progress and pics.
 
I will need a meter I guess, I'm red green color blind and after I add the nutes I can't get it to match anything on the color chart. That's what got me in trouble in the first place. After spending $650 on my set up I guess another $100 for a meter won't kill me, but loosing the whole crop would! Thanks for the info and I will keep this string updated with progress and pics.

I bought my digital meter off ebay for less than $30.00
 
Do the plants look nitrogen starved? I see alot of people have read the thread but not alot of comments. If you can help me or know someone who can please let me know. I have some pics of what I found today. They were transplanted on monday. I also have a pic of the nutes I was told to try. I haven't given them any for over a week because I wanted to flush th roots from th ph poisoning and the new soil should have plenty of nutes for a week or two.

Again, any help is still help...
 

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They got 1/4 tsp of the planticilin, bio-grow, and the bio-bloom in a half gallon of water for a week when they were two weeks old. The next week, all of them at 1/4 tsp with 1/2 gal of h2o. But that is also the week I mixed in the ph up. I flushed after seeing all of them start to yellow and immediatly jumped on here to find the source. Any ideas on when to start back on nutes and should I get diff nutes?
 
One more thing, as they got bigger I moved them from under a vitilum plus grow, ho t5, 4x24 sunleaves Pioneer VIII. To a 400w MH in a mylar cacoon. It's an open reflector with no ventilation except the holes in the top of the mylar and convection. It's in a crawl with only 4.5 ft of space. It's snowing outside and it's 55 mayb 60 in the crawl, but with the bulb on 24/7 it keeps it @ 80 to 83. Any suggestions on lighting problems?
 
Back from a weekend trip and haven't seen them in 48 hrs. Gave them 6-6.5 ph straight water for a week after transplanting them. Gave them 1 tsp mirgrow rose food 18-24-15, 1/4 tsp planticillin 1-0-0, and 1/4 tsp bio-grow 1.8-0.1-6.6 friday night before I left town. Mixed with 1 gallon of water and used amost 3/4 of the gallon. I ph'ed it to about 6 and crossed my fingers. I got back late last night and checked on them. They seemed to have responded.

The two that were badly damaged seem to green up just a little as did the other plants. They didn't show much growth though. The two plants that have shown the most progress (probably going to be males) grew 2-4 inches and all the others showed something. I rotated them under the lights to see if that has any effect on them. I will be giving them water for a week and slowly go back on weak nutes.

Any idea on when to start to turn back the lights? I want to go 18/6 but the only thing keeping the plants warm is the light. It was -1 when I was in chicago this weekend. Am I letting them get to big?
 

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Well I woke up today to find that one of the plants grew balls over night. I had turned the light lut by accident last thursday, today is tuesday, for several hours. Don't know if that made any difference. Anyway I pulled it. I don't know what these seeds are all I know is that they came from a local guy who grew it outside. It may be that it can't be grown indoors. All plants are showing signs of recovery. Even the badly damaged ones are showing new green sprouts. I'll load some pic's of the boy and the rest when I get time later today, I hope...:peace:
 
All the plants have recovered. I thought I had another one showing male but it turned out to be a bunch of new leaves where the tops had burnt. Yhey didn't look the same as the one I pulled 2 days ago. It had a string with pods it like a bunch of grapes, I looked at 20 plus pic's of males to make sure. I have thought about cloning several tips on some of the best ones to try and determine sex but wonder if you pick a female branch off a hermi will it show female or will it also have both sexes?
 

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Yesterday I started them on a 18-6 cycle. It has warmed up and it only gets down to 60 with the light off. I have started them back on nutes and they are responding. They have a lot of new growth and have all returned to green. I picked up miricle grow that has more nitrogen as they all seemed to be nitrogen starved. I plan on turning the lights back to 12-12 when it warms up enough to have the lights off that long. I will post some new pic's of the same plants that you can see the side by side of what they have grown since flushing.

I hope I have helped or given hope to some who think they screwed up and their plants are terminal. Just because your plant has problems it is a weed and very hardy. Take the time to figure out what you did wrong and make the proper corrections and your plants will respond.

Thanks for stopping in and good luck....:peace:
 
I turned the lights back on after 7 hours. the temp had dropped to 57. I mixed 1 gallon of water with 1/2 tsp bio-grow and 2 tsp mir-grow 24-8-16. The plants have seemed to respond well to the boost of nitrogen. They are alot greener than they were 4 days ago. They are going to grow all night and I'll report on them with pic's tomorrow night.
 
Wow,i have never ever seen any plant burned as bad as pic's # 5 & #6,those poor bastards are burnt to a cinder.Even if they survive they'll be so badly damaged i cant see them producing much.

I think i'd abort now,if not they are going to grow up retarted.
 
Magnesium (Mg) Toxicity
Magnesium toxicity is rare and not generally exhibited visibly. Extreme high levels will antagonize other ions in the nutrient solution.
Zinc

Zinc plays a roll in the same enzyme functions as manganese and magnesium. More than eighty enzymes contain tightly bound zinc essential for their function. Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation and helps prevent chlorophyll destruction. Carbonic anhydrate has been found to be specifically activated by zinc.
Zinc Deficiencies
Deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the inter-veinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance as seen in figure 18. This may be accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.
Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc. Zinc deficiency produces "little leaf" in many species, especially woody ones; the younger leaves are distinctly smaller than normal. Zinc defeciency may also produce "rosetting"; the stem fails to elongate behind the growing tip, so that the terminal leaves become tightly bunched.
zinc.jpeg
 
I don't want to throw anything away before I make all my mistakes with this batch so when I buy some seeds I will hopefully learn enough to make it worth the investment in the seeds. I have stopped taking several meds including ones for sleep, anxity, and depression because I started smoking again. It's not 24/7 but I do enough that it cost more than I'm willing to spend to buy it when I can grow it for free. The cost for street grade crap is high enough let alone that I've done it long enough that it takes a high grade of weed to do what I need it to. That can cost $100 to $130 a quater and I can't afford it. If I get 1 or 2 females out of this bunch I'll be happy and will try my hand at something I can get the history of.
 
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