Deficient or burnt?

TheRuiner

Well-Known Member
"Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure..."

This is from the thread I was linking too, is this possible? Is Epson Salt my answer?
 

Spanishfly

Well-Known Member
Please, let´s not hear that Old Wives´ Tale about aluminium foil causing hotspots. Nobody here has experienced it because it DOESN´T HAPPEN. No way can crinkled up aluminium foil bring light to a sharp and accurate focus, a condition that would be necessary for hotspots to occur. The aluminised parabolic mirror of my Maksutov-Cassegrain telescope can bring light to a sharp focus, if I were to VERY carefully and accurately position it next to a plant it may generate a hotspot, but not a bit of foil.

I am sure there are better reflectors than aluminium, aluminised mylar being one. However, aluminium foil has the advantage that it does reflect tolerably well, is dead cheap and available everywhere.
 

TheRuiner

Well-Known Member
Aluminum foil sucks get some white flat paint or space blaket
Wow man, I've heard that so many times now, lol.... The only conclusion is that the inside of a DR100 after being wrinkled up, looks just like tinfoil. It's the inside of a DR100, any idea on the magnesium deficiency theory?
 

TheRuiner

Well-Known Member
Please, let´s not hear that Old Wives´ Tale about aluminium foil causing hotspots. Nobody here has experienced it because it DOESN´T HAPPEN. No way can crinkled up aluminium foil bring light to a sharp and accurate focus, a condition that would be necessary for hotspots to occur. The aluminised parabolic mirror of my Maksutov-Cassegrain telescope can bring light to a sharp focus, if I were to VERY carefully and accurately position it next to a plant it may generate a hotspot, but not a bit of foil.

I am sure there are better reflectors than aluminium, aluminised mylar being one. However, aluminium foil has the advantage that it does reflect tolerably well, is dead cheap and available everywhere.
Spanishfly, I'd use mylar sheets myself if I didn't already have a lining in this tent, thanks for the input though. Any ideas on the little problem I've got going with the twisted old growth?
 

TheRuiner

Well-Known Member
Here are some pictures of the leaves that have died, not many but 1 is to many in my opinion. Others are slowing going, I have a old soil PH tester and stuck it in the soil for giggles (I didn't even think it worked) well, it dropped all the way down too 3.8-4 range, this has me worried, I'm ordering another tester to see if this one is accurate, if it is then WTF? I've always PH'ed everything to about 6.4 why is my soils PH so freakin' low? Should I PH everything high to even it out, I'm not understanding why the soil is so acidic, I have to find out if this tester is off or not first...
 

TheRuiner

Well-Known Member
Have you been going a little too crazy with your bloom nutrients?
No sir, if anything I've fed them too lightly. I've given them a feeding of around 750-1000ppm's every other watering since they were old enough to handle it.
The line below is a link to a grow journal for this one plant, every feeding and all the stats surrounding it are noted:
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/336865-here-we-grow-5.html

If you really wanna help just skim through it and read the posts with numbers (I'm not just trying to get everyone to look at my grow journal) I sincerely really just want to figure out what's wrong with this plant.

Thank you so much for trying to help, I invite questions from anyone please, help me reason this out?
 

moash

New Member
im thinkin it may be a K def
but what do i know
ive had probs like that before and found that i was underfeeding them
 

pinned

Member
Is it possible the plant is root-bound? I haven't ever grown in soil - hydro to start and now aero - so take my input with a grain of salt, but the general rule of thumb for pot size is 1 gallon per foot of growth. If it were my plant, I'd flush with plain PH'd h2o for a few days and see what happens. My experience has shown that it's best to err on the side of caution (ie: flush first instead of feeding). If the plant's condition does not improve, at least you've eliminated overfeeding and salt build up leading to nute lock (this last part assumes you flush).
 

noxzious

Well-Known Member
Aloha RIU, I'm overall very pleased with these two TSS's but am wondering what is this small problem I have here, should I give a pure flushing watering, or should I feed the girls again... last feeding was with 1050ppm RO water with some FF grow, big bloom, tiger bloom, and some molasses,... over the next 4 days all they got was 20oz of plain water... then a half gallon of water with only about 1/4 a tsp of Open Sesame last night... it seems to have gotten slightly worse on one leaf over night... i don't want this to get any worse! Help! Thank you all!
burn baby burn
 

mrbunny

Well-Known Member
Please, let´s not hear that Old Wives´ Tale about aluminium foil causing hotspots. Nobody here has experienced it because it DOESN´T HAPPEN. No way can crinkled up aluminium foil bring light to a sharp and accurate focus, a condition that would be necessary for hotspots to occur. The aluminised parabolic mirror of my Maksutov-Cassegrain telescope can bring light to a sharp focus, if I were to VERY carefully and accurately position it next to a plant it may generate a hotspot, but not a bit of foil.

I am sure there are better reflectors than aluminium, aluminised mylar being one. However, aluminium foil has the advantage that it does reflect tolerably well, is dead cheap and available everywhere.
I'm with you, Spanishfly. :joint:

Prepare to be hated, lol. :cuss:
 

raw225

Active Member
are you watering just to water? do you have a moisture meter to check when you need to water? i water my plants every other day & feed every other week, my plants are about 4 feet tall...i still only feed them twice a month..they are doing great! light burn is my only problem i have:(

check this out>hope it helps:)


Before we get into this I want you to check a couple things, check the following things:
  • Plants have plenty of water
  • Soil is seven PH or even a little less
  • Your light cycles are correct
  • No pools of water
  • Constant fresh air
Now thats out of the way let Mr. Ganja God diagnose your plant
FOUND THIS ON THE FORUM!!!

Bigger leaves are turning a yellowish color while the smaller leaves are green.
  • Nitrogen deficiency - add nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.
Older leaves will curl at edges, turn dark, possibly with a purple cast.
  • Phosphorous deficiency - add commercial phosphate.
Mature leaves develop a yellowish cast to least veinal areas.
  • Magnesium deficiency - add commercial fertilizer with a magnesium content.
Mature leaves turn yellow and then become spotted with edge areas

turning dark gray.
  • Potassium deficiency - add muriate of potash.
Cracked stems, no healthy support tissue.
  • Boron deficiency -add any plant food containing boron.
Small wrinkled leaves with yellowish vein systems.
  • Zinc deficiency - add commercial plant food containing zinc.
Young leaves become deformed, possibly yellowing.
  • Molybedum deficiency - use any plant food with a bit of molybdenum in it.
 

TheRuiner

Well-Known Member
im thinkin it may be a K def
but what do i know
ive had probs like that before and found that i was underfeeding them
What makes you say it is a K def? Underfeeding could possibly be the issue, but I've fed regularly every other watering with 750 -1050ppm ferts FF entire lineup.

Is it possible the plant is root-bound? I haven't ever grown in soil - hydro to start and now aero - so take my input with a grain of salt, but the general rule of thumb for pot size is 1 gallon per foot of growth. If it were my plant, I'd flush with plain PH'd h2o for a few days and see what happens. My experience has shown that it's best to err on the side of caution (ie: flush first instead of feeding). If the plant's condition does not improve, at least you've eliminated overfeeding and salt build up leading to nute lock (this last part assumes you flush).
Root bound is definitely not the issue, I am growing in a 5 gallon nursery pot, plenty big for this size plant, actually it's probably overkill, like most everything I do ;)
I think a good flush may be in order, this is advice I will take as soon as the dirt is dry again... next water, is going to be a 'flushing' water

def plants dont look that bad what medium are you using?
Using Fox Farms Oceans Forest, with about 25% of it being Happy Frog from FF and another 15% being extra chunky perilite. That's roughly my mixture, not far off anyway, my percentages might not be exact...
 

moash

New Member
What makes you say it is a K def? Underfeeding could possibly be the issue, but I've fed regularly every other watering with 750 -1050ppm ferts FF entire lineup.
thats what came to my mind when i saw the necrotic spots and tips twisting
which doesnt have to be a def,it could from an unbalanced supply of nutes,locking it out
 

TheRuiner

Well-Known Member
are you watering just to water? do you have a moisture meter to check when you need to water? i water my plants every other day & feed every other week, my plants are about 4 feet tall...i still only feed them twice a month..they are doing great! light burn is my only problem i have:(

check this out>hope it helps:)


Before we get into this I want you to check a couple things, check the following things:
  • Plants have plenty of water
  • Soil is seven PH or even a little less
  • Your light cycles are correct
  • No pools of water
  • Constant fresh air
Now thats out of the way let Mr. Ganja God diagnose your plant
FOUND THIS ON THE FORUM!!!

Bigger leaves are turning a yellowish color while the smaller leaves are green.
  • Nitrogen deficiency - add nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.
Older leaves will curl at edges, turn dark, possibly with a purple cast.
  • Phosphorous deficiency - add commercial phosphate.
Mature leaves develop a yellowish cast to least veinal areas.
  • Magnesium deficiency - add commercial fertilizer with a magnesium content.
Mature leaves turn yellow and then become spotted with edge areas

turning dark gray.
  • Potassium deficiency - add muriate of potash.
Cracked stems, no healthy support tissue.
  • Boron deficiency -add any plant food containing boron.
Small wrinkled leaves with yellowish vein systems.
  • Zinc deficiency - add commercial plant food containing zinc.
Young leaves become deformed, possibly yellowing.
  • Molybedum deficiency - use any plant food with a bit of molybdenum in it.
Watering just to water? lol.... I hope not! :)
I stick my finger into the dirt a couple of inches to see how dry things are getting and I water when I can go a few inches down and still feel no moisture, I'm trying to use the gardeners methods not the bottles, as I've seen it put here before. Using this method had me watering every 3-4 days when the plant was smaller and since she took off and is now flowering, I'm seeing the dirt start to dry out every 2-3 days, she recently went 4 (about two weeks ago) and I could see slight visual signs of dehydration, so I know I'm not over watering much if at all...

As for the bullets:
water seems to be good
PH is good
Light cycle is correct
no pooling water
and fresh air is constantly cycled through my grow room.

You cut and pasted from the sticky on the problems page, I've been using that and here's what I've learned:
Signs appear to maybe be a Magnesium def, but as it turns out to much P can result in a Magnesium lockout, I just started using Beastie Blooms, the FF supplement, and was wondering if that has locked out my Magnesium? Could that be the case? I will be flushing soon so I can have a clean start. This is bad so far because I can't find out definitively whether I am over feeding, underfeeding, have lockout, or a deficiency.... crap, I wish I could just ask the plant that the f*ck it wants!
Thanks for all the posts today, all of your input is appreciated and valued!
 

TheRuiner

Well-Known Member
I've heard that leaves start to yellow as flowering progresses and they eventually dry up and fall off. I do not know if this is your problem though.
No sir, that's a nitrogen deficiency and one that most people purposefully induce at the end of flower to attempt to improve taste. Uncle Ben says it's dumb and his argument is valid because why would you do anything that hurts the plant to help it, also, who knows wtf Nitrogen tastes like? lol.... I'm going to try it both ways over the next few years to test that one out for myself. Thanks for the input, big buds to you...
 
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