When to add nutrients

Clevelandblazn5

Active Member
I am about to transplant my seedlings into 5 gallon buckets I am using fox farms ocean forest and was told that since I'm using that soil I don't have to add the nutes right away I was wondering when a good time to start adding them would be
 

c5rftw

Well-Known Member
good soil typically has 3 weeks of nutes... just be careful when you add them... i always place it safe when it comes to adding nutes.. better giving it less than more as i'd rather have given it too little than too much
 

Clevelandblazn5

Active Member
good soil typically has 3 weeks of nutes... just be careful when you add them... i always place it safe when it comes to adding nutes.. better giving it less than more as i'd rather have given it too little than too much
I have advanced nutrients 2 part system do you think it's safe to start using the 5th week of the ff of soil and what watering cycle should they be on when the nutes are added
 

c5rftw

Well-Known Member
dont water with nutes everytime. always be gradually increasing the nute level... the watering cycle is something i dont believe in, in a manner of speaking. i water when i believe the plant needs it by using the finger method.. this will define you watering cycle. Keep in mind every plants consumes water at different rate. It is always bettter to underwater than overwater. the same can be said with nutes. I would recommend that you just follow the application instructions for your specific nutes very carefully.. with adding nutes, when in doubt, give it less
 

c5rftw

Well-Known Member
btw, if the plant is growing good, then the 5th week is perfectly safe. it should be atleast 10" by then for indoor. mine are usually 12" and really bushy
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
I am about to transplant my seedlings into 5 gallon buckets I am using fox farms ocean forest and was told that since I'm using that soil I don't have to add the nutes right away I was wondering when a good time to start adding them would be
after 4-5 weeks and start at 1/4 strength building it up week by week.
and add nutes(mixed with your water)every watering.
and maintain a proper watering schedule.
(dont stick you fingers in the soil as there will be roots near the top also).

LUDA.
 

c5rftw

Well-Known Member
after 4-5 weeks and start at 1/4 strength building it up week by week.
and add nutes(mixed with your water)every watering.
and maintain a proper watering schedule.
(dont stick you fingers in the soil as there will be roots near the top also).

LUDA.

what up luda man., every watering? see i actually use the time released nutes(solids that disolve). I think the mixable nutes depend on how much you water.. but yah your right with a 5 gal pot.. you wont water that much
 

Clevelandblazn5

Active Member
btw, if the plant is growing good, then the 5th week is perfectly safe. it should be atleast 10" by then for indoor. mine are usually 12" and really bushy
Thanks man once again your a life saver. I have 5 big bud seedlings goin in 5 5gallon buckets under a 600w mh and then also a 600w hps when in flowering my closet is 7ft wide 2ft deep and 10ft tall what are the chances of getting 4oz each plant
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
I use and recommend the single probe Rapidtest moisture meter. It is available from most of the major garden centers for under $20. This meter reads consistently without using batteries. It is invaluable for determining watering schedules, which vary tremendously from plant to plant, overwatered conditions, and uneven moisture distribution within the container. Rapidtest also sells a shorter, two probe model which should be avoided. Make this investment, monitor conditions regularly, and reap the rewards at harvest.

Growers that allow their medium to dry out to the point at which the leaves "droop" are reducing their final yields and quality. The medium contains a certain amount of salts that dramatically increase in concentration as the water dissipates. The roots can be repeatedly stressed going through this technique called "wet/dry cycle". The plant is being deprived of moisture that would be available to fuel additional growth and suffers.

The moisture meter's probe should be inserted to various depths to accurately assess conditions. The Rapidtest has a 1-4 scale on the meter, but what is imporatant is relative moisture. The lower potion of the medium in the container should not be so consistently and constantly moist as to "bury the needle" at the top of the scale. The middle depths of the container should be kept in the upper half section of the meter's range and the top should be allowed to dry out to the lower half of the range before rewatering.

This is far more accurate to the lifting and guessing game played by many. The weight of the container does not indicate where the moisture is inside. A grower would never really know if things at the bottom were oversaturated without a probe to tell them. If the bottom is soaked and never dries out, the container feels "heavy" even though other areas may be quite dry. Many grower use large, tight grids of 3-5 gallon containers which can amount to 40-100+ containers. How could they use the lift and guess method, if they can hardly reach some of my plants just to water and prune them. It would be impossible and bad for their backs to use anything except a moisture meter. In other situations the plants are attached to fixed supports, such as SCROG or simply tied up prohibiting movement. There is no more accurate or versatile way to determine your watering schedule.

Added by ~shabang~:

I am one of those that plays the "lifting and guessing game" and I will always recommend that you use your sense to judge and understand your plants rather than trusting in a $8 Wal-mart toy.

If a grower has 40-100+ large containers then they are likely experienced and likely growing mostly the same crop. When you know your plant and your system you don't use a moisture meter. No serious grower that I've met personally does.

Moisture meters are fine for beginners IF you use multiple sample points in each pot. It's too easy to hit a pocket of perlite or just rub the sensor the wrong way. I'd rather judge by visual and tactile response rather than entrusting a wavering needle on an inaccurate meter. You know that when you lift up your container, is it wet? or is it dry?


LUDACRIS.
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
what up luda man., every watering? see i actually use the time released nutes(solids that disolve). I think the mixable nutes depend on how much you water.. but yah your right with a 5 gal pot.. you wont water that much

everytime you water use you nutes mixed in as well.
(just dont go overboard).

LUDA.
 

c5rftw

Well-Known Member
I use and recommend the single probe Rapidtest moisture meter. It is available from most of the major garden centers for under $20. This meter reads consistently without using batteries. It is invaluable for determining watering schedules, which vary tremendously from plant to plant, overwatered conditions, and uneven moisture distribution within the container. Rapidtest also sells a shorter, two probe model which should be avoided. Make this investment, monitor conditions regularly, and reap the rewards at harvest.

Growers that allow their medium to dry out to the point at which the leaves "droop" are reducing their final yields and quality. The medium contains a certain amount of salts that dramatically increase in concentration as the water dissipates. The roots can be repeatedly stressed going through this technique called "wet/dry cycle". The plant is being deprived of moisture that would be available to fuel additional growth and suffers.

The moisture meter's probe should be inserted to various depths to accurately assess conditions. The Rapidtest has a 1-4 scale on the meter, but what is imporatant is relative moisture. The lower potion of the medium in the container should not be so consistently and constantly moist as to "bury the needle" at the top of the scale. The middle depths of the container should be kept in the upper half section of the meter's range and the top should be allowed to dry out to the lower half of the range before rewatering.

This is far more accurate to the lifting and guessing game played by many. The weight of the container does not indicate where the moisture is inside. A grower would never really know if things at the bottom were oversaturated without a probe to tell them. If the bottom is soaked and never dries out, the container feels "heavy" even though other areas may be quite dry. Many grower use large, tight grids of 3-5 gallon containers which can amount to 40-100+ containers. How could they use the lift and guess method, if they can hardly reach some of my plants just to water and prune them. It would be impossible and bad for their backs to use anything except a moisture meter. In other situations the plants are attached to fixed supports, such as SCROG or simply tied up prohibiting movement. There is no more accurate or versatile way to determine your watering schedule.

Added by ~shabang~:

I am one of those that plays the "lifting and guessing game" and I will always recommend that you use your sense to judge and understand your plants rather than trusting in a $8 Wal-mart toy.

If a grower has 40-100+ large containers then they are likely experienced and likely growing mostly the same crop. When you know your plant and your system you don't use a moisture meter. No serious grower that I've met personally does.

Moisture meters are fine for beginners IF you use multiple sample points in each pot. It's too easy to hit a pocket of perlite or just rub the sensor the wrong way. I'd rather judge by visual and tactile response rather than entrusting a wavering needle on an inaccurate meter. You know that when you lift up your container, is it wet? or is it dry?


LUDACRIS.

Luda man is this shit and deserves some rep
 

Clevelandblazn5

Active Member
I have 5 big bud seedlings goin in 5 5gallon buckets under a 600w mh and then also a 600w hps when in flowering my closet is 7ft wide 2ft deep and 10ft tall what are the chances of getting 4oz each plant
 

gohydro

Well-Known Member
I have 5 big bud seedlings goin in 5 5gallon buckets under a 600w mh and then also a 600w hps when in flowering my closet is 7ft wide 2ft deep and 10ft tall what are the chances of getting 4oz each plant
Your 7x2x10 space is surely enough for your plants but an attempt to get a big harvest by growing an exceedingly tall plant (because you have 10' ceilings) is a waste considering light penetration. Some people figure 2.0-3.0lb per 1000 watts of light but that is usually a scrog/sog and those yields come from lots of experience. Considering your lighting I wouldnt let those plants get any bigger than 4' which means inducing flowering at around 12"-16". 16 may be a little big considering that they will probably triple in size once you go to 12/12. If all 5 turn out female I would guess you may get 2-2.5 oz per plant.

Good Luck


Here's are 2 light charts. This will help you to understand why the bottom 4' of a 6-8' tall plant is useless.
 

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