KingBrite 240w 3000K or 3500K for Full cycle?
- Thread starter Eugenios
- Start date
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Right on. All 3000k right?
Eugenios
Well-Known Member
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Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
There's choices of 3000k or 3500k the the reds. Hell, there's even 4000k.
Eugenios
Well-Known Member
Yeah I know. I am asking what you guys recommend. 3000K or 3500K for veg AND bloom?
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
3000k all the way. Especially if you can turn your reds off with a switch on the board.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
3000k does great both veg and flower, but 3500k would be a good option if youre not having great control over environment. The extra blue helps with transpiration which means it will do a bit better at lower temps. But extra blue does generally cost you a bit in yield although not that much.
My personal take is to get something balls to the floor flower spectrum, 2700k 90cri and a bit of 660red, and then some blue/uv on a separate dimmer. But you would have tto source and build.it yourself.
My personal take is to get something balls to the floor flower spectrum, 2700k 90cri and a bit of 660red, and then some blue/uv on a separate dimmer. But you would have tto source and build.it yourself.
p0opstlnksal0t
Well-Known Member
I'm battling the same decision now. 3000k vs 3500k. The 3500k has a higher bin available so it's slightly more efficient. My main concern is flower quality and yield. I only veg for a few weeks before flip but I don't want to target a light for "veg" at the sacrifice of flower yield or quality
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
3500 is not a veg light, its full cycle. The bin wouldnt mean very much in efficiency boost as per ppf as in lumens.
Id go for 3500k if youre worried that you will have a hard time keeping the heat up while vegging at loow intensity. Tbh youll do fine with either. You can allways add some red mono strips for 3500 or blue/uv to 3000k.
We went with 2700k 90cri and more red on top, but havent done a full flower cycle yet. Vegging seems ook and stable
p0opstlnksal0t
Well-Known Member
what pushed you guys to go 2700k?
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
I built some lights to test for my friends grow op. We tried 3000k and 2700k in 80cri and 2700k and 3700k in 90cri. 2700k was a clear winner, faster and better bud development even if less efficient than all other spectrums tried. I havent seen 3000k 90cri flower but it should also be good. The reason why we had these spectrums to test was a bit coincidental; its what i could get my hands on in 90cri (blux vesta strips). Since then my buddy asked me to only do flower lights in 2700k 90cri.
Ive also seen some test of the @Grow Lights Australia High light boards (2700k 90cri + some near uva and violet). To me it looked better than the other sides (various hlg 80cri boards with added reds and uvs, all sides very maxed out with hydro and high intensity, 1050 ppfd), even if the total spectrums (white + reds) was fairly similar to the highlights, if anything they looked better on paper. So my thinking is: if youre ever flowering with your lights get as much red as you can in your white base spectrum. Later on, instead of adding red to a full cycle or vegg spectrum, add blue and uv for vegg and a little for tricomes. To me this is the easiest approach: balls to the floor flower spectrum plus a wide blue and uv channel on separate driver.
Ive also seen some test of the @Grow Lights Australia High light boards (2700k 90cri + some near uva and violet). To me it looked better than the other sides (various hlg 80cri boards with added reds and uvs, all sides very maxed out with hydro and high intensity, 1050 ppfd), even if the total spectrums (white + reds) was fairly similar to the highlights, if anything they looked better on paper. So my thinking is: if youre ever flowering with your lights get as much red as you can in your white base spectrum. Later on, instead of adding red to a full cycle or vegg spectrum, add blue and uv for vegg and a little for tricomes. To me this is the easiest approach: balls to the floor flower spectrum plus a wide blue and uv channel on separate driver.
tommyinajar
Well-Known Member
Are you still agreeing with your decision? I had a china 3500k in cart but switched it to a 3000k and am wondering if I should go even lower.
Eugenios
Well-Known Member
Yup, harvested 513gr in a 4x4 growing 4 autoflowers. Used two Meijiu QB 240w 3000k (480w total). I also have one Meijiu in a 2x2 and everything is looking good. It does produce some heat but nothing crazy.
Which you will if you choose any higher than 3000K in my opinion.
I use both, I'll never go higher than 3000K again.
I'm swapping out my 4K strips - which make the 50/50 combo with 3000K - for 2700K on my next run
tommyinajar
Well-Known Member
I see you're supposed to watch the temp from dropping to much, why's that?
LOL temp too low?? I haven't even given that as a possibility in a long time with 2000 of HPS going....
LOL temp too low?? I haven't even given that as a possibility in a long time with 2000 of HPS going....
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Hps gives out a lot of infra red radiant heat, enough to practicly never have to worry about low temps during lights on. LED don't have this IR, so in order to get the transpiration up, and to support full light intensity metabolism you need slightly higher temps, + 80F for full flower.
salmonetin
Well-Known Member
...Typical Bandwidth Wavelength of Radiated Heat of a High Pressure Sodium Lamp...
..at 830 nm...lot of infra red radiant heat... "some" watts "wasted" on 830 nm...lol..
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PAR, PPF, YPF, PPFD and DLI
What Wavelengths and Colors do
Typical PPFD and DLI values per crop
More micromoles for less $$
Light Recipes and Grow Spectra
Light Distribution
Advanced Thermal Management for LED Grow Lights
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Paz y Amor...en 2021 aun mucho mas...
Saludos desde Tenerife - Islas Canarias
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