9,000btu mini split enough?

[Nizza]

alot of minisplit mechanics dont realize when you pull off or add your hoses you need to do it with the system running
this allows for minimal loss because the refrigerant is in its low pressure vapor instead of a high pressure liquid.

you don't particularly need the restrictor to change liquid to gas if you slightly crack your manifold gauge and yes you need to add as a liquid because it is mixed refrigerant so what I do is shut gauges, open tank, flip for liquid, put on scale, purge gas through (dump it through the gauges to displace any air) then screw into the port. Leave manifold closed slightly crack ball valve and then use the manifold handle to throttle the gas in (like you said in slow bursts)

My gauges have a sight glass on them so i can actually see the liquid boiling off before it fly's down my hoses

overall you most likely don't have the stuff to add this so you'll have a dude there who can do it
r410 is kind of cheap, maybe your best option would be to squirt a little in there and then take the temp across the coil and see if it helped. This will point you back into the direction of a possible initial under/overcharge
and also tell you that you need to find a leak somewhere
I have ran into lots of leak issues, in new units such as leaky coils and even leaky linesets!
there is a few brands out there with the white insulation that the formaldehyde has been breaking down the piping and causing preforations

Renfro is right on the money here!

 

[Lund-o]

alot of minisplit mechanics dont realize when you pull off or add your hoses you need to do it with the system running
this allows for minimal loss because the refrigerant is in its low pressure vapor instead of a high pressure liquid.

you don't particularly need the restrictor to change liquid to gas if you slightly crack your manifold gauge and yes you need to add as a liquid because it is mixed refrigerant so what I do is shut gauges, open tank, flip for liquid, put on scale, purge gas through (dump it through the gauges to displace any air) then screw into the port. Leave manifold closed slightly crack ball valve and then use the manifold handle to throttle the gas in (like you said in slow bursts)

My gauges have a sight glass on them so i can actually see the liquid boiling off before it fly's down my hoses

overall you most likely don't have the stuff to add this so you'll have a dude there who can do it
r410 is kind of cheap, maybe your best option would be to squirt a little in there and then take the temp across the coil and see if it helped. This will point you back into the direction of a possible initial under/overcharge
and also tell you that you need to find a leak somewhere
I have ran into lots of leak issues, in new units such as leaky coils and even leaky linesets!
there is a few brands out there with the white insulation that the formaldehyde has been breaking down the piping and causing preforations

Renfro is right on the money here!

Got a buddy coming to put some sealant or some shit in the lines.. thinks it’s a very slow leak somewhere. Might see if I can return the unit also.. bought it from Home Depot less than a month ago

 

[Nizza]

well adding sealant to the lines may void the warranty, that is kind of like a last-option thing

you need to see if you can visually find the leak first, I think that you would be best off not adding a type of sealant as it can reduce the lifespan of your unit as well. You also need to be sure the issue is a leak , either way your going to have to eventually weigh out the charge and weigh one back in so it is charged critically if there was a leak.

smartest thing you could do is pull the refrigerant out, weigh it see how much is there, If its a leak, then pump the system back up with nitrogen. Take soap bubbles and spray the flare joints first , open up the condensor with the disconnect switch to off so you dont electrocute yourself, and spray the coil as much as you can and visually look and listen for leaks everywhere. go inside and do the same to the minisplit head especially on the sides where the little U's of copper connect each coil run.

at this point if you find your leak somewhere in the head or whatever, I think you could even bring back the condensor as well, and get a brand new unit of both.

If for some reason you cant return it due to voiding warranty and there is for sure a leak in the coils I would then use the leak stop stuff.
Your going to want to use the dry-seal first then the easy seal, or some sort of one that has both in it. I advise not doing this though unless very desperate

the whole idea is that you charge the minisplit correctly, when not charged correctly you could run up a huge bill because the thing isn't operating the way it's designed to

Good luck man, and I hope you get this figured out

 

[Lund-o]

well adding sealant to the lines may void the warranty, that is kind of like a last-option thing

you need to see if you can visually find the leak first, I think that you would be best off not adding a type of sealant as it can reduce the lifespan of your unit as well. You also need to be sure the issue is a leak , either way your going to have to eventually weigh out the charge and weigh one back in so it is charged critically if there was a leak.

smartest thing you could do is pull the refrigerant out, weigh it see how much is there, If its a leak, then pump the system back up with nitrogen. Take soap bubbles and spray the flare joints first , open up the condensor with the disconnect switch to off so you dont electrocute yourself, and spray the coil as much as you can and visually look and listen for leaks everywhere. go inside and do the same to the minisplit head especially on the sides where the little U's of copper connect each coil run.

at this point if you find your leak somewhere in the head or whatever, I think you could even bring back the condensor as well, and get a brand new unit of both.

If for some reason you cant return it due to voiding warranty and there is for sure a leak in the coils I would then use the leak stop stuff.
Your going to want to use the dry-seal first then the easy seal, or some sort of one that has both in it. I advise not doing this though unless very desperate

the whole idea is that you charge the minisplit correctly, when not charged correctly you could run up a huge bill because the thing isn't operating the way it's designed to

Good luck man, and I hope you get this figured out

Thanks bud. I voided the warranty when I installed it lol. Is what it is at this point

 

[Nizza]

then if your gonna go ahead with the sealant this is my recommendation.
pull the refrigerant out, see how much was left in there to verify that there was in fact a leak
If the thing is completely out of gas, or very very low , replace the filter drier.
after that put fresh gas in. this may cost a little but those units don't use much gas.

as for an sealant product I like nu-calgon. I know they have one that will dry out the system and one that will seal the system when it sees moisture. This is why it is important to figure out how bad the leak was. If you add this stuff and there is alot of moisture present it will slug up your system bad

the best possible thing you can do is find out where the leak was because if it is a big leak or a leak in the piping your damaging your system bad when you may have been able to fix it alternatively
some people inject UV die as well to see if they can detect where the leak is from