COB Seedling Distance

TomBombadil420

Active Member
no bro, Get out paper, turn light to max. measure your lux at 16 inches. THAT number, is your max lux that you need at 3/4 thru flower.

I would do just 2 plants in that area, veg for 3 week, scrog it, then flip. Max, would be 4 plants, and 1 week veg, then flip.

5 plants with 1.5 month veg=sure failure, you dont have the room, or the light.

So lets take just 2 plants as example, ok..

Say its a 9 week flowering strain, 3 week veg.

My max, at 200 watts, with my cobs, is 37000 lux, or 570 PAR, which is good.

so, thru the veg period, i cant exceed 18,500 lux, or 285 PAR.

Reason is, when you get to the near end of flower, i should be at 570 PAR to finish her up, because a plant can only take so much light, and u want to finish with double before flip, or 285 PARish.

So, veg for 3 weeks,
Week1=6,200lux (95PPMs Nutes for this week )
week2=12,400lux (190PPM for this week )
week3=18,600lux (286PPM for this week)
Flower weeks (10 weeks)
Week4=18,800lux (289PPM for this week)
week5=22,000lux (338 PPM for this week)
week6=24,000lux (369 PPM for this week)
week7=26,000lux (400 PPM for this week )
week8=28,000lux (430 PPM for this week )
week9=30,000lux ( 461PPM for this week)
week10=32,000 lux (492 PPM for this week)
week11=34,000lux ( 523 PPM for this week)
week12=36,000lux ( 553 PPM for this week )
week13=30,000lux ( No Nutes, flush PH water, Till PPM is whats going in, 1 week, strip fan leaves 5 days before chop )

also, keep in mind, Nute PPM are relative to Watts.

So last week before flush, you should be only using around 570 PPMs for your final week. = PAR=PPMs for those weeks.

because a 200 watts plant, doesnt need 1000PPM or nutes, because it cant use it,

alot might be like, WTF, your wrong, but I dont think so. lol.
Hey bro i found the Dr. Meter LX1010B one only difference is 100.000 lux max. This work ok? I like because for the same price amazon send international and shipping is so fast.
 

nederwierie

Active Member
Yes my friend! I think that too that she is suffering. Egg shells can work?
I don´t know what pure eggshells will do for an direct Calcium boost but maybe someone else have experience with that.
I read they have 40 % Calcium in it so i guess that would work if you add like 40 Grams of eggshells to 1 liter of water in a bottle and shake it.
But that´s what i´m guessing , maybe another member can be more specific on your question.
I have no experience on adding calcium with eggshells but i think it can´t do harm .
I guess some biological eggs grinded to powder would do a great job to add some fresh calcium but they really have to be from chickens which feeded with normal food and not with antibioticas , thats something you don´t want to feed your plants.
 
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TomBombadil420

Active Member
I don´t know what pure eggshells will do for an direct Calcium boost but maybe someone else have experience with that.
I read they have 40 % Calcium in it so i guess that would work if you add like 40 Grams of eggshells to 1 liter of water in a bottle and shake it.
But that´s what i´m guessing , maybe another member can be more specific on your question.
I have no experience on adding calcium with eggshells but i think it can´t do harm .
Thanks! Maybe like you said can’t do harm and it’s better than do nothing!
 

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
I dont have an iphone, but i think it doesnt capture the light correctly, from what ive read. Same reason you dont buy chicken wings from a brake shop,lol.
 

TomBombadil420

Active Member
My friends! Already checked my tap water, this is the results without let it sit 24 hours:

Without filter:

ADAFF26B-0336-4A4A-A5DF-0D30104161C4.jpeg

With stock water filter, not RO or carbon, I think is like a layer filtering:

BDBA87BF-1F15-48AF-B3AD-0E9BBB41B406.jpeg

It’s good?
 

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
My friends! Already checked my tap water, this is the results without let it sit 24 hours:

Without filter:

View attachment 4344222

With stock water filter, not RO or carbon, I think is like a layer filtering:

View attachment 4344223

It’s good?
seen worse bro, thats not to bad. If thats all you can go with, then it is what it is. The reason for RO, is you know that the PPMs u are adding, is what your plant needs. So, basically your water is already 100 PPM deep, you have to adjust for that. Then, your not sure of what is in your tap water. Keep in mind, Letting it sit out for even 5 days, isnt going to change anything PPM wise, because PPM is salt measurement, and salt does evaporate, and to be honest, neither does chlorine, so letting it sit out is useless, contray to what alot believe. And actually, a bit of chlorine is ok, the plant uses it, but its the fluoride, and the chloramines that are bad, and the plant doesnt use them and kills the micro-bacteria in your soil,

RO water just gives you a nice, low, clean base to build off to get a better, overall nute profile for your plant.
 

TomBombadil420

Active Member
seen worse bro, thats not to bad. If thats all you can go with, then it is what it is. The reason for RO, is you know that the PPMs u are adding, is what your plant needs. So, basically your water is already 100 PPM deep, you have to adjust for that. Then, your not sure of what is in your tap water. Keep in mind, Letting it sit out for even 5 days, isnt going to change anything PPM wise, because PPM is salt measurement, and salt does evaporate, and to be honest, neither does chlorine, so letting it sit out is useless, contray to what alot believe. And actually, a bit of chlorine is ok, the plant uses it, but its the fluoride, and the chloramines that are bad, and the plant doesnt use them and kills the micro-bacteria in your soil,

RO water just gives you a nice, low, clean base to build off to get a better, overall nute profile for your plant.
Oh :( and If I cant access to RO what can I do?
 

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
Just roll with it bro, Ull be ok, at least it has calcium and mag. Usually Tap water means you have to add little cal-mag. Thats why I didnt even think this was a calmag issue to begin with, because i dont see that problem. I just think you over watered it is all, lol. Like ive said, i put seedlings in 1800PPM hot soil, and they do just fine. They will survive a hot soil before they survive having the roots rotted off from over watering. Even the light, if they grow from seed with strong light, they will adapt to it, then if it was in low light, then all of a sudden, they get alot of light, they will have problems, just like taking a indoor plant and putting it in the sun for the first time, it will wilt up and burn, because its not adapted to the intensity.

make sense bro?

Do you have any nutes your going to be using? if so what?

i wont be on after this minute, have things to take care of, so have a good one man, and let that soil dry out,lol.
 

TomBombadil420

Active Member
Just roll with it bro, Ull be ok, at least it has calcium and mag. Usually Tap water means you have to add little cal-mag. Thats why I didnt even think this was a calmag issue to begin with, because i dont see that problem. I just think you over watered it is all, lol. Like ive said, i put seedlings in 1800PPM hot soil, and they do just fine. They will survive a hot soil before they survive having the roots rotted off from over watering. Even the light, if they grow from seed with strong light, they will adapt to it, then if it was in low light, then all of a sudden, they get alot of light, they will have problems, just like taking a indoor plant and putting it in the sun for the first time, it will wilt up and burn, because its not adapted to the intensity.

make sense bro?

Do you have any nutes your going to be using? if so what?

i wont be on after this minute, have things to take care of, so have a good one man, and let that soil dry out,lol.
Hi bro! I will use Mammoth P Microbes, and I have TopCrop Organic nutes:

For veg:
http://topcropfert.com/en/fertilizantes_liquidos_topcrop.html#deeper
http://topcropfert.com/en/fertilizantes_liquidos_topcrop.html#topveg

For flowering:
http://topcropfert.com/en/fertilizantes_liquidos_topcrop.html#topbloom
http://topcropfert.com/en/fertilizantes_liquidos_topcrop.html#topcandy
http://topcropfert.com/en/fertilizantes_liquidos_topcrop.html#big

Pests prevention:
http://topcropfert.com/en/fertilizantes_liquidos_topcrop.html#barrier

I have too diatomaceous earth, liquid humus and calmag coming soon.
 

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
Seems like a good nute lineup bro. Its very important that you set some time aside, and learn the strength of them, because like i said, you dont want to over feed. The problem is, the numbers they put on the bottle, represents a 1000W HPS light, with 10 plants in 1 gallon pots, in a 5x5 grow area. YOUR plants wont need that, because your using a 5th of the light, make sense?

SO it might say 2ML to a liter, when really, u need a 5th of that. Alot of growers think, "just use half" but even that is wrong, because there is alot of things that need to be put in perspective to get proper feeding FOR A WEED.

This is where Ive messed up terribly in the past, even my current grow, to much nutes. But ive learned and will never make that mistake again.

I have an invention that Im going to be maybe producing that will help the grow community home growers. But still have testing to do.

But it allllll wraps around light and nute needs, that will help grower tremendously on the fly.

I use a dry nute, 1 part, meaning, i pour nutes from a bag, weigh, pour, mix, done. I just never enjoyed liquid nutes, 3 part mixes, but then again, i was nute dumb.

the 1 part is so much easier. So now, you have to figure out strengths of EACH bottle, and then have to figure out the combination, AND adjusting because your tap water is already slightly high from the start.

Just keep in mind, its better to have a slightly deficient nute profile, then a over feed profile, because it takes time to recuperate from over feeding, and under feeding is almost instantly.

Then, your light isnt very strong, so again, the plant size wont be a giant biomass of plant, so nute needs are wayyy less, because simply, the plant isnt going to produce a large biomass anyways to eat the nutes your feeding her.

This is a awesome hobby, its always a learning process, and its a science to get healthy meds at the end of the day.

Bro, just tryin to help, to make the path to success shorter and less "trial by error",
 

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
And here is the reason, i say do just 2 plants in that small area. These are on day 65 from seed, 12/12 from seed, in a 3.5x3.5 area. If i did 4 of these, i would of run out of room, and these are getting only 200 watts. Using 4 luminus cobs
day65-mon1.png
 
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