Schwaggy P's Random Stuff

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
How do you coincide those with growing anything???
Well, there was never a section on botany specifically in any Chem/Physics class I took or taught if you’re looking for an obvious link between these subjects and horticulture. These subjects do give a greater appreciation for the individual phenomena and aspects within horticulture.

For instance, many growers understand not to allow your pH to drift outside of a prescribed range or concentration to avoid nutrient lockout and are content to leave it at that. Chemistry can describe what exactly nute lockout is in terms of the power of Hydrogen (pH) dynamics and electron affinities in a way that allows one to visualize the intricate dance taking place between certain chelated elements in your reservoir. Now does this necessarily translate to a better grower? No, but it grants a better understanding of “why” instead of just leaving it to “what”.

Without this turning into Schwaggy P’s Treatise on Daily Application of Chem/Physics, I’ll say that there are as many ways to apply what you learn in a class, as your imagination will allow. If you were to wait around for your teachers to explain to you every possible way you could apply the concepts you are learning, you’ll be missing out. It’s up to your critical thinking and discernment to decide when your understanding of an abstract concept can be used to understand a specific situation.

A teacher wouldn't say:

...And formation of precipitates is going to be important when you start mixing multi-part nutrients in your rez so pay attention.

…Volumetric conversions are going to help you out when you’re trying to replicate bottled nutrients.

…Understanding aqueous solutions chemistry and phase shift physics will help you calculate how much of your dwindling rez water is actually being taken in to the plants vs. being evaporated into a given closed environment for top-offs.

But, you could use what was being taught to help you in these aspects as well as many others.
 

outliergenetix

Well-Known Member
Your Jabba F2 are looking good (along with the mint trips). I made sure to include at least one seed from every female that was pollinated with the selected male, but they seem to be pretty uniform in height. The Jabba’s Stash F1 was more varied, so it seems the male has a homogenizing influence. I can see his influence on the SSDD in your other pictures as well.

Nice to see lunch bag row :-), I’m eager to see how you like the single branch dusting. Since you dusted them all, you know you’ll have seeds of your favorite pheno at harvest time. You’re welcome, glad to help.
they are very similar i had noticed as well to the ssdd cross. there is no chemmy smell on the jabba f2s, at least not atm, liek there is with the ssdd cross. just based off research i would say the blue moonshine is coming thru on all of them to a degree and about half also have an added chemmy note prolly from the 'tres dawg' in apalachia. but they all have short petiols and tight nodes.
thanks for that info regarding selecting the seed, and the f1 :)
 

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
they are very similar i had noticed as well to the ssdd cross. there is no chemmy smell on the jabba f2s, at least not atm, liek there is with the ssdd cross. just based off research i would say the blue moonshine is coming thru on all of them to a degree and about half also have an added chemmy note prolly from the 'tres dawg' in apalachia. but they all have short petiols and tight nodes.
thanks for that info regarding selecting the seed, and the f1 :)
No problem on the F1 info. Nice expressions breakdown.
 

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
No sir,
Black Lights was made by Coastal Seeds
Old Family Purple was made by CSI

I used a Black Lights male to pollinate: Chemdog'91(skva), H.A.OG, Sour Diesel, Chem D, and Chem Kesey. This batch of seeded plants is currently finishing.
Parting with any of them???
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Schwaggy P, if you reverse a female and cross it to another strain is there any tendency for the genetics to lean toward the pollen giver or to the pollen receiver?
 

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
Schwaggy P, if you reverse a female and cross it to another strain is there any tendency for the genetics to lean toward the pollen giver or to the pollen receiver?
I have heard/read before that the pollen donor tends to contribute to a larger extent than the receiver. In my experience, I don't really see this every time. I am of the opinion that the resulting progeny of any cross will be at the mercy of the dominant genetics regardless of which parent they come from. So if a female is homozygous for a specfic trait, then the pollen donor male would not overcome the true breeding dominance of that trait beyond the expected statistical outcome (assuming he is heterozygous for the trait).
 

Baja.Beaches

Well-Known Member
would expect the Chem '91 Skunk VA to lend some longer internodal spacing, vigor, and broader leaves as she has shown an ability to dominate crosses in these areas. I would not be surprised at a flowering cycle that leans more to the 9-10 week range. Overall, I would expect to see a more Afghan Skunk type skunk plant with a more open structure, and flowers that have a fuel soaked rotting quality. If I were to guess, I think this particular cross may work best as an F1 if the phenotypic spread is highly variable. I can see this being a really fun pack of seeds to grow out.
Yep, I really am quoting the very first page of this thread. I am finally ready to grow out some of your chems.

You have posted so much useful info, I went back to page 1 re-reading the chem stuff. I seemed to pick up on different things the 2nd time through, a lot of food for thought in this thread.

I realize we have different priorities, I don’t have a lot of space available so need to narrow it down. No indoor room at all right now so it will have to at least veg & maybe flower outdoors. It sounds to me from your excellent chem descriptions that the Chem ’91 Skunk VA with the looser nodes & OG type structure might be the best candidate for outdoors, but would appreciate any input.

You crossed that Chem ’91 Skunk VA with both the Granny Skunk & the Skunky Brewster. Which of those males do you think will do best outdoors? I always liked the looks of your female Skunky Brewsters. It is a moot point since I decided to try a side by side but wondered what your expectations would be.

Thanks for all you share. I've learned some good things here. :lol:
 

outliergenetix

Well-Known Member
hey schwaggy i meant to tell you the other day that those jabba x ssdd from useful seem to be doing what you said the jabbas did regarding the smaller 'done' looking plants need xtra time for the trichs to cloud up. at day 50 or so the nugs, not the leaves, looked really mature and covered in trichs but they are still mostly clear and tomorrow is week 9. back around day 50 i thought i was gonna cut these first turns out i cut down the vanilla kush at day 60 and everything else is still going. prolly pull em down at 9.5 weeks this weekend, but who knows i will have to see what the trichs say.
also i see 0 fade on most of these, mostly the short ones. is it unusual for the trichs to get cloudy and amber yet have no fade? if so would you pull it while looking completely helathy and no fade if the trichs say it's time or would you let it 'over ripen'. my guess is they just didn't feed heavy so there is allot left in the soil, but idk really. i don't have much experience with tyhese short stout heavy indica leaners
 

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
Yep, I really am quoting the very first page of this thread. I am finally ready to grow out some of your chems.

You have posted so much useful info, I went back to page 1 re-reading the chem stuff. I seemed to pick up on different things the 2nd time through, a lot of food for thought in this thread.

I realize we have different priorities, I don’t have a lot of space available so need to narrow it down. No indoor room at all right now so it will have to at least veg & maybe flower outdoors. It sounds to me from your excellent chem descriptions that the Chem ’91 Skunk VA with the looser nodes & OG type structure might be the best candidate for outdoors, but would appreciate any input.

You crossed that Chem ’91 Skunk VA with both the Granny Skunk & the Skunky Brewster. Which of those males do you think will do best outdoors? I always liked the looks of your female Skunky Brewsters. It is a moot point since I decided to try a side by side but wondered what your expectations would be.

Thanks for all you share. I've learned some good things here. :lol:
Good to hear! The SKVA’s OG structure would minimize mold worries but may require more support if you intend to top and train. The SKVA x Skunky Brewster show a nice spread as far as expressed traits, but you should get the OG structured plants, you can see there are a solid representation of the taller phenos in the F1:
chemskunkyb.jpg

I haven’t gone through the (SKVA x Granny Skunk), but the Granny Skunk has imparted increased stem strength in the (GCs1 x Granny Skunk) progeny. I would assume the Granny Skunk could reliably shore up the stem strength in a cross. The Skunky Brewsters were on the shorter/stockier side of structures, so I would think either male should provide some structurally sound plants for outdoor.

The deeper saw tooth serrations and narrower leaf blades are the mark of the Skunky B (these are expressing the deeper serrations, middle plant is also narrow bladed):
skunkyvaspread.jpg

He also passes on the intense frost production. Here is a selected male from the Skunky D (Chem D x Skunky B) that looks like Chem D with more frost:
skunkydmale1.jpg

skunkydmale2.jpg

The Skunky Brewster females were less roadkill and more hashy in taste/smell. They were shorter, a few phenos liked to branch but were mostly single cola style plants with a relaxing effect. I would expect the SKVA x Skunky B to hopefully take on the earth/fuel of the Chem with the increased frost coverage of the Skunky B and have a great stone.

The Granny Skunk females all had, to some degree, a sour apple to the smell. The high was a little more soaring cerebral than the Skunky B. You may find some Sour Diesel-esque plants in this cross.
 

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
hey schwaggy i meant to tell you the other day that those jabba x ssdd from useful seem to be doing what you said the jabbas did regarding the smaller 'done' looking plants need xtra time for the trichs to cloud up. at day 50 or so the nugs, not the leaves, looked really mature and covered in trichs but they are still mostly clear and tomorrow is week 9. back around day 50 i thought i was gonna cut these first turns out i cut down the vanilla kush at day 60 and everything else is still going. prolly pull em down at 9.5 weeks this weekend, but who knows i will have to see what the trichs say.
also i see 0 fade on most of these, mostly the short ones. is it unusual for the trichs to get cloudy and amber yet have no fade? if so would you pull it while looking completely helathy and no fade if the trichs say it's time or would you let it 'over ripen'. my guess is they just didn't feed heavy so there is allot left in the soil, but idk really. i don't have much experience with tyhese short stout heavy indica leaners
Yep, there were some Jabba’s that had that deceptive doneness look. I would always err on the side of the trichomes to time harvest.

This is the SSDD I used in that cross and she finishes in the 9-9.5 week range and fades nicely. She tastes like rich soil after a rain and cornbread
ssdd1.jpg
ssdd-fade.jpg

I’d guess the soil is still rich for the shorter plants, but as long as you didn’t blast them with the feeds, you should be okay if they aren’t fully faded out by the time to chop them. I’ve chopped without any fade before and the only detrimental thing I experienced was a little more cure time.
 

outliergenetix

Well-Known Member
Yep, there were some Jabba’s that had that deceptive doneness look. I would always err on the side of the trichomes to time harvest.

This is the SSDD I used in that cross and she finishes in the 9-9.5 week range and fades nicely. She tastes like rich soil after a rain and cornbread
View attachment 4337102
View attachment 4337103

I’d guess the soil is still rich for the shorter plants, but as long as you didn’t blast them with the feeds, you should be okay if they aren’t fully faded out by the time to chop them. I’ve chopped without any fade before and the only detrimental thing I experienced was a little more cure time.
intersting that ssdd look identical to one i saw @Nube post in a thread of his on OG. i rememebr it because i had noticed there, as well as here, the petioles are longer and so is node spacing than the cross i have. i see what you mean how the jabba is passing on the structure. and yea i am thinking 9-10 weeks on the cross for sure. tomorrowis 9 and as of sunday all trichs were clear not one amber, hard to tell cloudy ratio with my loupe and shaky hands. the ssdd also has way better leaf to flower ratio. i am thinking the cross is largely destined to be a hash plant. unless you like trimming tons of sugar leafes i would make hash with these.
 
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