Samsung F564B Linear Strip Build

Fra91

Fra91

Member
T-Time said:
How much light and what are the components for it ? That looks impressive!!!
Planning to open a grow thread ?
Click to expand...
if there is interest I can publish updates as soon as I put the system into operation, the lights run with a hlg 600h 48a and the strips mount lm561c. I bought the digikey diodes and I had the card assembled to a nearby company, I'm doing also prepare others by mixing two color temperatures with cree 660nm
 
canadian1969

canadian1969

Well-Known Member
Fra91 said:
if there is interest I can publish updates as soon as I put the system into operation, the lights run with a hlg 600h 48a and the strips mount lm561c. I bought the digikey diodes and I had the card assembled to a nearby company, I'm doing also prepare others by mixing two color temperatures with cree 660nm
Click to expand...
Oh yeah, start a grow journal man, seriously. #growporn
 
shawnery

shawnery

Well-Known Member
I've recently moved away from air, I was pushing about 140 for 8 stones, to small 1/4" water lines with 90 degree sprayer at the end. If anything I've found that my plants and roots are doing better. I had noticable root and root hair growth the day after I switched off my air.

I have a few theories why this is actually better.

First of all it is a fact not theory that waterfalls are the most proficient way of adding DO and airstones are actually the least efficient. There is data to back this up it's not just a theory but I got to find it again.

Secondly there is the strange current that airstones create in the buckets and cause roots to become extremely tangled. I've heard people complain about DO getting to the center of a root ball but without airstones would there even be a "root ball"?

Thirdly there is the heat associated with the air pumps that is painfully to your skill if you hold it there long enough. I have to imagine that plant roots are more susceptible to heat damage than my skin, no?

Lastly, especially where I live, there is the concern of contagion from the outside air source for your airstones and pump. If you live in an area prone to bacteria and mold there is a good chance if your not running a lung room that your introducing that shot into your water and bucket atmosphere. Not to mention very little of what you pump in is actually oxygen even though it's only the bubbles bursting that creates the DO transfer

I'm also running a 6 way water fountain off of my 1000gph pump in the epi that creates tons of DO.
 
Fra91

Fra91

Member
shawnery said:
I've recently moved away from air, I was pushing about 140 for 8 stones, to small 1/4" water lines with 90 degree sprayer at the end. If anything I've found that my plants and roots are doing better. I had noticable root and root hair growth the day after I switched off my air.

I have a few theories why this is actually better.

First of all it is a fact not theory that waterfalls are the most proficient way of adding DO and airstones are actually the least efficient. There is data to back this up it's not just a theory but I got to find it again.

Secondly there is the strange current that airstones create in the buckets and cause roots to become extremely tangled. I've heard people complain about DO getting to the center of a root ball but without airstones would there even be a "root ball"?

Thirdly there is the heat associated with the air pumps that is painfully to your skill if you hold it there long enough. I have to imagine that plant roots are more susceptible to heat damage than my skin, no?

Lastly, especially where I live, there is the concern of contagion from the outside air source for your airstones and pump. If you live in an area prone to bacteria and mold there is a good chance if your not running a lung room that your introducing that shot into your water and bucket atmosphere. Not to mention very little of what you pump in is actually oxygen even though it's only the bubbles bursting that creates the DO transfer

I'm also running a 6 way water fountain off of my 1000gph pump in the epi that creates tons of DO.
Click to expand...
the configuration that I posted before is just a test (Rdwc, 240 liters per minute hiblow, chiller teco hy2000 and led) the final configuration involves moving the epicenter and the chiller and air pumps out of the grow adding a concentrator of 10 liters oxygen per minute to send DO to about 18 mg. I tested my leds in coco and it went very well 1.68gpw now I want to try to go further with a rdwc system, if there are further upgrades I'm willing to add
 
shawnery

shawnery

Well-Known Member
skoomd said:
Nope, all passive.

I used 1" aluminum heatsink for that build, but my other one is using 2" aluminum U frame (the build in the pics uses the single row strips, the build using 2" u frame has 2 row strips). The heatsink is lower profile and works a bit better, but it costs a bit more.

The frame is just aluminum L frame put together with sheet metal screws. Then the heatsinks are screwed onto the frame.
Click to expand...
Sounds like mine.

I've been trying to save money by running lower lumens in veg but finally figured something out yesterday.

Each fixture has 5 strips but when plants are young they only need one strip each. I have 8 plants so I only need 2 strips on each fixture until later. So now I'm running only 2/5ths total wattage but running the full 40,000 lumens!
 
shawnery

shawnery

Well-Known Member
Fra91 said:
the configuration that I posted before is just a test (Rdwc, 240 liters per minute hiblow, chiller teco hy2000 and led) the final configuration involves moving the epicenter and the chiller and air pumps out of the grow adding a concentrator of 10 liters oxygen per minute to send DO to about 18 mg. I tested my leds in coco and it went very well 1.68gpw now I want to try to go further with a rdwc system, if there are further upgrades I'm willing to add
Click to expand...
You should really look into either waterfalls or flooming for your DO, it's much better at the job than any air pump configuration you could come up with!
 
Moflow

Moflow

Well-Known Member
@OLD MOTHER SATIVA


4 Footers (1120mm):
LT-FB22B (144 Diodes, 16 Series x 9 Parallel, Voltage = ~48V, Max Current = 1800mA)

3000K: SI-B8V521B20WW

3500K: SI-B8U521B20WW

4000K: SI-B8T521B20WW


5000K: SI-B8R521B20WW



LT-FB24B (288 Diodes, 16 Series x 18 Parallel, Voltage = ~48V, Max Current = 3600mA)

3000K: SI-B8VZ91B20WW

3500K: SI-B8UZ91B20WW

4000K: SI-B8TZ91B20WW

5000K: SI-B8RZ91B20WW
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
I would look at getting Influx_H they run the newer LM301... nothing wrong with LM561C... all the diodes in this pic is the latter. The little bulbs are emergency lighting... they did their thing again this afternoon when there was a powerline fault.
 
OLD MOTHER SATIVA

OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
thankyou my awesome Cronies

i kind of wanted to do wellight strips but there is no business movement from them..

ithought about finshing the order butbif theycannot answer a question then its not that important to me either

they may be cheaper by $/used watt

meaning wellight 5050..driven at 150 maybe 200w..more like 150..i wouldneed two since my goal for this single plants in hydro's

is 200 -300w per..300w seems not over done..200w may be under done..


and the samsung strips powered at 50%..

probably the 2 ft strips since i will need more of a square to service only one plant/tub




way to go getting your own boards made locally from souced diodes

"but without airstones would there even be a "root ball"?"

yes there is still root ball..i used good airstones for a few years then got lzay and didn'tnuse them..they did ok though

but i still think airstones promote a more growth

everything you said about airstones i agree with
 
OLD MOTHER SATIVA

OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
That is stupid...(with respect) just run them at Test current as intended. What would you rather do, save a few dollars over the span of a grow on electricity, or just blast the plants with all you have for maximum yield?
Click to expand...
thanks..that does make sense ... we have the most expensibe hydro in the country by 57%

as well..isn't running strip panel at 50% one way of not having to use a heat sink which precludes the cost of
getting an extra panel strip underpower it and covering more area?


i appreciate the help with the strips....
as well the "go for LM301"...will look into it
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
If you can, I'd suggest waiting until you can do a +-600W system as the large driver is the most efficient Meanwell makes. This should be perfect for a 5x5 or possibly larger area. I'd at a minimum use 6 x 4' double row F series strips.
 
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