ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Nice colors!
Looks like you got her dialed! You must be under 79f or higher than 45% RH.
VPD "Danger Zone" for 40% RH starts @ 75°f.
VPD "Danger Zone" for 45% RH starts @ 79°f.
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The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds
- Thread starter zypheruk
- Start date
Looks like you got her dialed! You must be under 79f or higher than 45% RH.
VPD "Danger Zone" for 40% RH starts @ 75°f.
VPD "Danger Zone" for 45% RH starts @ 79°f.
ApfelStrudel
Well-Known Member
Nice colors!
Looks like you got her dialed! You must be under 79f or higher than 45% RH.
VPD "Danger Zone" for 40% RH starts @ 75°f.
VPD "Danger Zone" for 45% RH starts @ 79°f.
View attachment 4312206
First run with those strains and upgraded light.
That chart is for lights on. Nobody ever tried to put one together for lights on and off
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Good point.First run with those strains and upgraded light.
That chart is for lights on. Nobody ever tried to put one together for lights on and off
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Good work!
nederwierie
Active Member
I have this idea to put 2 chinese 288leds boards ( LM561C) on 1 alluminium sheet with a dimension of 38 CM wide and 30 CM lenght and 6 MM thickness.
Is the 6 MM thickness enough ?
I use an HLG 80H-48A to feed both 2 boards on 80 Watts .
Is the 6 MM thickness enough ?
I use an HLG 80H-48A to feed both 2 boards on 80 Watts .
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ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
I'd say that'd be plenty for a disipator, but if you find you're transferring into the plate faster than the plate can transfer into the air (ie, it's too hot), you'll have to increase the surface area of the disipator. Heatsinks have fins which dramatically increase their air to heat source contact, heat is easily managed then by pumping out the air. Big disipators are nice because they give such a large buffer, but the surface area is what's going to allow you to transfer that heat into the air, which is how we manage heat, by pumping the used up and hot air outside.
A couple additional strips of U or C channel will effectively mitigate any issues your disipator doesn't. I'd try the disipator and if you have to, then add the C channel. Good luck!
nederwierie
Active Member
Thank you very much! I did´nt realise the surface size spreads the heat better into the air.I'd say that'd be plenty for a disipator, but if you find you're transferring into the plate faster than the plate can transfer into the air (ie, it's too hot), you'll have to increase the surface area of the disipator. Heatsinks have fins which dramatically increase their air to heat source contact, heat is easily managed then by pumping out the air. Big disipators are nice because they give such a large buffer, but the surface area is what's going to allow you to transfer that heat into the air, which is how we manage heat, by pumping the used up and hot air outside.
A couple additional strips of U or C channel will effectively mitigate any issues your disipator doesn't. I'd try the disipator and if you have to, then add the C channel. Good luck!
I will use a slight larger alluminium sheet like 40 by 40 CM and 6 MM thickness and if needed some C Channels to reduce the heat better.
Thank you very much for this advice , i learned a lot from your answer and now i know what to do.
Greets and have a nice weekend !
Nederwierie
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
I'm guessing it'll work great, but its easy to add channel if you need.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
If youre not going to drive them harder than 80w combined youre almost in no heatsink land.
I used 35x100cm of 3mm alu sheet for 250w with everything just a little warm. Better save on the base plate and get something that works like fins and stick it on with selfadhesive tape. U channel and L channel works great.
nederwierie
Active Member
Thank you for the great advice, i readed a lot on this page and especially your reviews and great advices in this topic,
thank you very much and all of the other members that showed their experiences, i and many people all over the world learn from you people here and that is an awesome thing by self.
The plan is to use the 2 boards with the 288 Leds on 1 single HLG 80 W driver without heatsink but for sure i ordered an alu sheet 40x40cmx6MM .
Maybe i don´t need them on 80 W in my little grow space of 45cm x 50 cm but for 28 Euro for that heatsink i can drive them a little harder in the future on a stronger driver. ( offcourse in that case in a larger growroom but for now this space is ok for personal herb supply )
The alu U and L channel is a great tip to make the heat dissapier better in the air.
Iḿ learning in this stage of the Quantom cobs boards but i can´t wait to see what 2 x 288 561C would do on a growspace of 45 x 50 CM ,
that must be something awesome in the microgrow world.
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Moflow
Well-Known Member
@nederwierie the HLG550 is probably 6mm thick plate so 150w would work.
nederwierie
Active Member
Thank you i will keep that in mind , that is great for future builds if the garden gets a little larger.
Again thank you all for the good advices on growing with this Chinese boards, it´s a thing apart but i have good hopes these boards will preform very well.
For the price these builds costs and some handy DIy more people can grow there medicinal herbs , just a little thing but great in helping other peoples around this globe.
Peace to ya all and smoke a good one!
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Spent the weekend up at the grow. My mate is quite highly strung as we have to be out of there soon. The new revised led numbers are 60g/square foot or about 700g per m2: just over 2 g per watt on our first real led monocrop. But on that crop we also 1g/w on the hps, real bumper crop.
The one take away from this time: 2700k 90cri Vesta strips are killing it on low wattage. 250w over one tray and it looks at least on par, if not a head, of 400w trays.
The one take away from this time: 2700k 90cri Vesta strips are killing it on low wattage. 250w over one tray and it looks at least on par, if not a head, of 400w trays.
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
got a photo of your 2g w grow..before you get the boot
?
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
With it being a 11 week strain its really not that out there. They get almost 50% more light than a normal 8 week strain with same wattage. Its also only about 30w/square foot. I cant get my mates permission to post photos as he is paranoid. I can see if i can get something to pm you. But it cant be thru my phone. I really dont care about g/w, for us grams per area is more important.
WeedSexWeightsShakes
Well-Known Member
Great honest humble post man.
I appreciate people like you.
When you hear someone is hitting 2g/w+ Everyone always wants proof but when you give the details like you did it puts it into perspective.
Either way tho sounds like a great grow and I’m sure we all would love to see photos.
Can’t wait to get my fotops hooked up and running!
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
We are looking at getting some documentation of the grow. If legalization comes then thats a good resume/CV. But it cannot be associated to my account here. Maybe an IG which is completly unassociated to my account, phone, wifi etc. In that case ill drop a line thru PM. For now its what it is. With eviction hanging over us its not possible now.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Also, please note the setup: some trays have 2000 lm561c (like 7qbs) over them and every lm561c is driven at nominal or less, .2w max. And our panels pretty much cover the tray completely. Also, its based on board watts:
4.2 k's from 6x hlg240 and 3 hlg185, about 2100 board watts. However none of drivers are really maxed out as my voltage allways comes in a few volts under constant voltage rating (due totbeeing run super soft)so wall consumption shouldnt be much over 2100w.
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