How much armor si?

nicksol86

Well-Known Member
How much armor si to use in deep water culture hydroponics ? Was using like 50ppm at first and then 150 ppm calimagic b4 base nutrients. But my ph went high and had to add a bunch of ph down. When I mix my nutrients without armor si my ph usually don't need to be adjusted unless it drifts up the next day or few which then I drop it with ph down. Seems like a waste of ph down adding this stuff. Any thoughts or opinions?
 

5BY5LEC

Well-Known Member
How many ml per gallon? I never measured the ppm of it.
I ran about 1ml per gallon. Went down to 1/2 ml and then to none near the end.
 

nicksol86

Well-Known Member
I never measured a dose. Lol. I'll check what 1 ml per gal does on ppms and adjust from there if needed. In thinking less is more since it raises ph so much maybe I shoudnt use much.
 

nicksol86

Well-Known Member
Potassium silicate is very caustic so always add to the water first then pH down to around 7 then add all the other stuff then make any final adjustments to pH if needed.
Amen to that. I knew the mixing order. Armor si always first, then calimagic, then micro, grow, bloom, ph to range then add hydroguard in my case since I chose bennie's over sterile. I use real growers recharge also 1 to 2 times a week. Never heard to ph it first though before adding anything else. That's new to me.
 

nicksol86

Well-Known Member
I use 2mL per gallon.
I think it's a good idea to use less on smaller plants and adding more when they get bigger and more established. Maybe start off with .5 to 1 ml per gallon and work it up to 2ml per gallon when they're a few weeks old to a month old maybe
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Never heard to ph it first though before adding anything else. That's new to me.
Some Si stuff can raise the pH over 10 and at that level it can cause some nutes to precipitate out of solution so it's a good idea to knock it down some before adding anything else.

I use Rhino Skin which has some buffering built in and says to use 2ml/L but have one by CannaMax Labs canadian.gif that is more concentrated, has no buffering and sets it's max level at 1/4ml/L. Thick like glue.

The Rhino at half strength or 1ml/L only raises the pH to around 8.5 while the other gets it up to over 10 at half strength.

Adding diatomaceous earth to your soil/soilless grows is a good way to get extra silica to your plants and offer some protection from insects like fungus gnats or root aphids. Good to eat as well.

:peace:
 

nicksol86

Well-Known Member
Some Si stuff can raise the pH over 10 and at that level it can cause some nutes to precipitate out of solution so it's a good idea to knock it down some before adding anything else.

I use Rhino Skin which has some buffering built in and says to use 2ml/L but have one by CannaMax Labs View attachment 4261732 that is more concentrated, has no buffering and sets it's max level at 1/4ml/L. Thick like glue.

The Rhino at half strength or 1ml/L only raises the pH to around 8.5 while the other gets it up to over 10 at half strength.

Adding diatomaceous earth to your soil/soilless grows is a good way to get extra silica to your plants and offer some protection from insects like fungus gnats or root aphids. Good to eat as well.

:peace:
I have some DE but it gets wet and funky on my hydroton so I don't use it. I top feed 1 to 2 times a week with real growers recharge. So that doesn't work for me unfortunately. Money wasted. Bags been sitting there since I got it and tried it. Did nothing for the gnats I got it to try and kill
 

baaael

Active Member
Potassium silicate is very caustic so always add to the water first then pH down to around 7 then add all the other stuff then make any final adjustments to pH if needed.
Yep this is the way i do it to and my PH is fine with very little fluctuations day to day
I used to make it 7.5 but 7.0 works to so i just do it at 7 now
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I have some DE but it gets wet and funky on my hydroton so I don't use it. I top feed 1 to 2 times a week with real growers recharge. So that doesn't work for me unfortunately. Money wasted. Bags been sitting there since I got it and tried it. Did nothing for the gnats I got it to try and kill
I've never used DE with my DWC runs. Never had gnats in any of them but have a few times in my soilless grows.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Yep this is the way i do it to and my PH is fine with very little fluctuations day to day
I used to make it 7.5 but 7.0 works to so i just do it at 7 now
Doesn't have to be 7 dead on or anything. Even 8 would be OK and wouldn't interfere with the other nutes.

If you are using the same amount of water when you mix up a batch then you should keep track of how much pH down it takes to get it down in that range then it's an easy thing to do so you just have to do testing once after all the other stuff is in. Best to always let it sit for a while before final testing as it can take some time for everything to finish reacting and the pH remain stable. I keep an airstone running in the water jug when I mix mine. Taking almost 20L to soak the 6 pots at each watering every few days.

I've been having problems with leaves dying on some of the plants and all indications were that it was low manganese and the Mn is in my Micro nutes so I fed everybody a good dose of Micro with a bunch of other stuff as they were at 2 weeks 12/12 a couple days ago and bud development seemed slow.

I've been feeding Rhino Skin every couple feedings at half strength without checking pH as I'm using pH Perfect 3-part nutes but the Rhino is old and gone green with lumps like small tapioca bits. Checking my charts it seems Mn is becoming unavailable at pH 8 or so and so do many micronutes. I added 6 big drops of concentrated sulfuric acid to the jug and fed half the plants that night. Next morning they were praying to the light and looking great so I fed the rest. Day after and they are looking greener and happier than they have for a couple months. I didn't check the pH but I'm pretty sure it would have been down around 5 or less. I may do it again so will check it if I do.

Took a pic after light's out tonight. The fluffier buds are the Critical Mass and AK47, 2 each, and on the right side are mostly the CBD crosses which were most affected and yield much less than the others normally. Hopefully bud growth will be rapid now. They got enough Big Bud and Bud Factor X in them to choke a horse! :D

ScroGSetup08011903.jpg
 

Major Blazer

Well-Known Member
Amen to that. I knew the mixing order. Armor si always first, then calimagic, then micro, grow, bloom, ph to range then add hydroguard in my case since I chose bennie's over sterile. I use real growers recharge also 1 to 2 times a week. Never heard to ph it first though before adding anything else. That's new to me.
I do not pH my nutrients until after finishing mixing. I have always read that it is wrong to pH prior to finish mixing, which makes sense since your nutrients will alter your pH. Silica is super alkaline so yes, it will raise pH initially. My nutrients always bring it back down to an almost perfect level - I use almost no pH down ever and I have never had to open my pH up. I would imagine pH'ing before adding my nutrients would absolutely create an acidic environment and require me to use pH up, which makes no sense - you don't want to be adding both pH up and down into your solution if possible.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
I do not pH my nutrients until after finishing mixing. I have always read that it is wrong to pH prior to finish mixing, which makes sense since your nutrients will alter your pH. Silica is super alkaline so yes, it will raise pH initially. My nutrients always bring it back down to an almost perfect level - I use almost no pH down ever and I have never had to open my pH up. I would imagine pH'ing before adding my nutrients would absolutely create an acidic environment and require me to use pH up, which makes no sense - you don't want to be adding both pH up and down into your solution if possible.
If I already know how much pH up or down is required based on mixing previous batches, I will add it or most of it prior to adding the nutrients. I figure that this way it's reaacting with crap in the water before it reacts to the nutrients. Just my theory anyways.
 

nicksol86

Well-Known Member
I do not pH my nutrients until after finishing mixing. I have always read that it is wrong to pH prior to finish mixing, which makes sense since your nutrients will alter your pH. Silica is super alkaline so yes, it will raise pH initially. My nutrients always bring it back down to an almost perfect level - I use almost no pH down ever and I have never had to open my pH up. I would imagine pH'ing before adding my nutrients would absolutely create an acidic environment and require me to use pH up, which makes no sense - you don't want to be adding both pH up and down into your solution if possible.
That's what I do too except I add hydroguard last cuz it dont affect ph and I don't want the ph up or down to kill the good stuff in the hydroguard
 

Major Blazer

Well-Known Member
Clearly it works in different orders for others, but every nutrient bottle I’ve seen and every article I’ve read always advises pH’ing last, so I’m sticking to it!
 

Major Blazer

Well-Known Member
Btw @nicksol86 has your armor si ever begun to have plastic filmy looking stuff floating around in it? Both of mine have and I def shake the shit out of them before use. Wondering if it’s normal or maybe it’s my environment...
 

nicksol86

Well-Known Member
Btw @nicksol86 has your armor si ever begun to have plastic filmy looking stuff floating around in it? Both of mine have and I def shake the shit out of them before use. Wondering if it’s normal or maybe it’s my environment...
I just got a new bottle of it. Its a blue tint liquid. Haven't seen anything floating or chunky in it. It's always a good idea to shake your bottles well before use anyways regardless.
 
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