Greenpoint Seeds (Uncut)

Bakersfield

Well-Known Member
How did you like the Gunslinger.im finding some really nice phenos in mine.My 5 is a frost queen and smells like a shitty diaper.My wife is in love with this plant
I liked it a lot. My pack of Gunslingers had the heavy poop burnt rubber smell as well as does my Copper and Garlix.
I liked their main terminal bud structure, was like a footlong spear tip.
Potency was right up there with the Deputy and Garlix but was weaker than the Copper and Skypilots.
I didn't keep them and missed out on buying a replacement pack. Big mistake!
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
When you guys send green point cash do you use a regular envelope or a tracked one?
I send regular envelopes, but it's usually less than $50.
Ive done it a couple different ways.I always print out the invoice and wrap the cash in there.put in a regular envelope and take it to the post office.i just mail it priority mail and they put it in another envelope and thats it.Ive put them in the blue boxes also with a stamp.Both ways work.
Just got a pack of night rider for 13 dollars out the door over the weekend.Them long ass auctions were getting tiresome.

NETSPEND pre-paid VISA card kiddies! Accepted everywhere, including oversea's......Cleaver folks use bogus info and ghosted email accounts.......Fill it, send it, and don't worry about it.
 

chiqifella

Well-Known Member
I've sent GP cash money for a long time. I fold it up in a piece of paper with my order number on it, put into a stamped biz envelope and mail it normal.
I've never had an issue. Prepaid card are not accepted by GPseeds. They do accept credit card numbers sometimes but I find cash to be king! The @Gu~ has even sent me my order before he received my cash !!! no worries with this bank
 

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
I got like 7 females out of my pack. I must have won the female to male ratio on my pack. :bigjoint:
I'm also growing a pack of Chem 91 F1 (Chem 91 Skunk VA X Pakistani Chitral Kush) by Pirates Of The Emerald Triangle, right next to them, that are neck and neck with them in vigor.
The pack of DreamCatchers are next in line of stretch as well as the Tombstone.
Honestly, just about everything stretches like crazy under my DE HPS's
Gunslinger and Black Gold and Skypilot were the only Stardawg crosses that didn't stretch like crazy on me.
I'm also seeing mega stretch with HPS. I just started my second week of flower on a variety of strains and I can tell it's going to be a fun crop.
The worst offenders are Zamaldelica, but Chinook Haze is a close second.
I've got MH bulbs and can easily swap out the HPS. Have you guys ever tried running MH or CMH the first couple of weeks to reduce stretch?
 

Bakersfield

Well-Known Member
I'm also seeing mega stretch with HPS. I just started my second week of flower on a variety of strains and I can tell it's going to be a fun crop.
The worst offenders are Zamaldelica, but Chinook Haze is a close second.
I've got MH bulbs and can easily swap out the HPS. Have you guys ever tried running MH or CMH the first couple of weeks to reduce stretch?
I bet that Zamaldelica will stretch like crazy!
I've never used the Metal Halide for the stretch and then switch to HPS to finish, but I bet it would work great. I've never used the CMH. I'm holding out for the Nanolux 1000 watt De CMH to hit the shelves before I jump in.
I have grown start to finish, with metal halide, back in the day. The yields were always smaller than my HPS grows.
 

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
NETSPEND pre-paid VISA card kiddies! Accepted everywhere, including oversea's......Cleaver folks use bogus info and ghosted email accounts.......Fill it, send it, and don't worry about it.
Pre-paid visa is the safest method, but you pay fees on both ends. :roll:
Regular envelopes with cash have worked fine for me, but if I'm going to send more than $50, I'll pay the extra $6 to send it priority mail and get a tracking number.
 

Amos Otis

Well-Known Member
I bet that Zamaldelica will stretch like crazy!
I've never used the Metal Halide for the stretch and then switch to HPS to finish, but I bet it would work great.
For a couple of years I've stayed with MH the first 25 days post flip, and don't go full bloom nutes until the swap to hps.
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
I'm also seeing mega stretch with HPS. I just started my second week of flower on a variety of strains and I can tell it's going to be a fun crop.
The worst offenders are Zamaldelica, but Chinook Haze is a close second.
I've got MH bulbs and can easily swap out the HPS. Have you guys ever tried running MH or CMH the first couple of weeks to reduce stretch?
You are going to have your hands full with that zamaldelica man.

If you remember my pic, she was very stretchy but also I kept her stacked from top to bottom, solid buds on every branch with no gaps.

I have my fair share of knowledge growing it, you need to start bloom nutes on it right off the bat. Just enough nitrogen to keep her green. Then after 3 weeks or 4 of flowering, start increasing the nitrogen again in small doses by combining a mix of flower and veg nutes. She is pretty sensitive to nutrients though so keep them low to medium in dosage. If you notice yellowing, just up the food a bit, but again, in small doses.

Do you have photos of your zamaldelica? Are you getting a carrot smell off a stem rub or more lemony/oily smell?
 

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
You are going to have your hands full with that zamaldelica man.

If you remember my pic, she was very stretchy but also I kept her stacked from top to bottom, solid buds on every branch with no gaps.

I have my fair share of knowledge growing it, you need to start bloom nutes on it right off the bat. Just enough nitrogen to keep her green. Then after 3 weeks or 4 of flowering, start increasing the nitrogen again in small doses by combining a mix of flower and veg nutes. She is pretty sensitive to nutrients though so keep them low to medium in dosage. If you notice yellowing, just up the food a bit, but again, in small doses.

Do you have photos of your zamaldelica? Are you getting a carrot smell off a stem rub or more lemony/oily smell?
Thanks for the info. I've never grown zamaldelica so it's been challenging. I've been giving them mild bloom nutes (3-12-12) for a while because they didn't like mega crop. I topped them several times in an effort to keep em shorter, but they're still too tall.
Can't get a pic until lights on (4 hours).
 

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
You are going to have your hands full with that zamaldelica man.

If you remember my pic, she was very stretchy but also I kept her stacked from top to bottom, solid buds on every branch with no gaps.

I have my fair share of knowledge growing it, you need to start bloom nutes on it right off the bat. Just enough nitrogen to keep her green. Then after 3 weeks or 4 of flowering, start increasing the nitrogen again in small doses by combining a mix of flower and veg nutes. She is pretty sensitive to nutrients though so keep them low to medium in dosage. If you notice yellowing, just up the food a bit, but again, in small doses.

Do you have photos of your zamaldelica? Are you getting a carrot smell off a stem rub or more lemony/oily smell?
Here are my Zamaldelicas. (Sorry for the HPS lighting.)
The two on the left are male and will be in the worm bin tomorrow morning. :cry:
IMG_1385.jpg
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
Here are my Zamaldelicas. (Sorry for the HPS lighting.)
The two on the left are male and will be in the worm bin tomorrow morning. :cry:
View attachment 4089376
Ahh hate to hear that... For you anyway, I know your situation and that you have a limit on plant count and all. Those are some nice males in all seriousness lol.

I have found that on many landrace strains, it is best to hit them heavy up front in the beginning of 12/12 with bloom nutrients, something heavier in P and K and kinda back off the nitrogen at least for the first couple of weeks in flower. Then, on second week
plus through about 4ish, start increasing the nitrogen also while still giving them preferable amount a of P and K.

Also, if you have any, or maybe whatever nute/fert you are currently using has Kelp included in the mix, this is a great addiction for slowing down stretch as well. It contains a natural plant growth regulator (PGR) called Triacontanol... Especially if your kelp is extracted specifically or derived from the ascophylum nodosum species of sea kelp.

I don't always recommend starting 12/12 right off the bat with bloom nutes, but if head space is a concern for someone, especially in running a landrace indoors, you don't want that extra boost of vegetation time in the first few weeks of flower.. You wanna do everything possible to keep it short, kick her ass in gear to start pushing flowers and then once you start noticing good bud site development appearing, that is the sweet spot when you wanna start increasing the nitrogen just a little. Just enough to keep the leaves healthy and green.

There are basically two ways most people kick off the flowering cycle... And simply put...

1) Veg nutes continued into 12/12 for the first 2 to 3 weeks, then start feeding bloom food...(not my preference indoors, but definitely outdoors as this method is very important, in my climate anyway).

2) Flower nutrients started immediately and continued throughout the entire grow (which in my opinion most people see lots of deficiencies, specifically nitrogen with this method... Plants need that nitrogen at least till the last two weeks of flower).

3) This is the best choice for flowering plants with long solid full bud formation and reducing stretch to a minimum. I have created this for myself over the years, having to deal with short head space, I do this indoor only and got the #1 route outdoor.

It goes... Bloom nutes first 2 weeks with enough nitrogen to sustain a healthy green color in leaves, then switch to an equal amount flower/veg nute schedule from say week 2 to 3, then after 3 to 4ish drop the veg nutes and go full bloom specific again just like you did in week one. It is likely from this point forward that you bloom nutes contain enough trace amounts of nitrogen to sustain the plants demands from that point forward (after the 1 to 4 week stretch period), nitrogen is needed slightly but drastically less.

Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to make sure your picking up on what I'm saying.
 
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