Check out my seedlings, how am I doing?

Nafydad420

Well-Known Member
Just wondering if there's anything else I can tweak to help these suckers go. This a little over a week in, my heat was out for 3 days so understandably my progress has been slowed to a crawl. Everything survived though thankfully. 1 of them sprouted straight up and out the surface of the soil and dried itself up. So I replanted it sideways basically, hope that was the right move. I have them in 4" pots with low nute baby soil a friend gave me. I'm in a closet that's 3 ft x 5 ft. At the time of writing this I had a tent arrive that's 2.5 ft x 4.5 ft BUT it came in used and rusty from HTG Supply so another hold up.

My soil has seemingly been very dry due to low humidity, so I've been misting them at least once a day. I have just a 4000k LED board right now running at 60w about 2 ft away. I can add another board and bump it up to 100w if I need to. The end plan is to have all 3 under 4 boards at 200/300w, depending on if I can get enough air flow for all 300w. I've been using plastic cups with holes cut in the sides to help trap some humidity, it helped them grow tremendously at first but now not as much. Soil temp averages around 67 without the cups and 71 with them. My plants look to be standing still and not growing anymore.

If anyone was interested the strain is Dirty Snow (Chem D x Humboldt Snow) by CSI Humboldt. I'll be posting more on their progress in the future. A humidifier is the next purchase for my room. Let me know what you think! Thanks!
just re read this, i would stop misting them, they don't need it and it could lead to mold/ burning your leaves/ sucking out the nutrients of the leaf. just keep the mediums moist and you will be fine :)
 

Nafydad420

Well-Known Member
Oh really? I'm curious when should I have stopped misting? Thanks again!
Misting is okay when needed, for instance to cure a deficiency. After the cotyledon opens, it really doesn't need to be misted unless its to correct deficiencies. If the plant doesn't get the moisture it needs from the roots, you'll need to water a little more, or a little more often. But don't keep roots saturated thinking it saves effort. Constantly wet roots rot (unless in hydro) Since water easily gets trapped between leaves, spraying in flower is a good way to promote budrot. (mold)

If you do mist, (spray) raise the lights and don't let water 'pool' on the leaves. Standing water clogs the stomas, which are used for gas exchange and can cause dead spots on the leaf over time.

If you need to spray against bugs, remove plant from under lights to get under the leaves and spray the undersides, too. Otherwise, you might spray the bulb, which isn't a good idea. Rinse-off the leaves after treatments are complete and the recommended timeframe has passed. (asap)

Residue can clog the stomas, and could coat (shade) the leaf preventing proper photosynthesis. (kinda like paint or stains protect wood...)
Never "power" spray with a fine stream. Light to medium spraying (misting) only, or you risk leaf damage.
 

firstnamelast

Well-Known Member
Misting is okay when needed, for instance to cure a deficiency. After the cotyledon opens, it really doesn't need to be misted unless its to correct deficiencies. If the plant doesn't get the moisture it needs from the roots, you'll need to water a little more, or a little more often. But don't keep roots saturated thinking it saves effort. Constantly wet roots rot (unless in hydro) Since water easily gets trapped between leaves, spraying in flower is a good way to promote budrot. (mold)

If you do mist, (spray) raise the lights and don't let water 'pool' on the leaves. Standing water clogs the stomas, which are used for gas exchange and can cause dead spots on the leaf over time.

If you need to spray against bugs, remove plant from under lights to get under the leaves and spray the undersides, too. Otherwise, you might spray the bulb, which isn't a good idea. Rinse-off the leaves after treatments are complete and the recommended timeframe has passed. (asap)

Residue can clog the stomas, and could coat (shade) the leaf preventing proper photosynthesis. (kinda like paint or stains protect wood...)
Never "power" spray with a fine stream. Light to medium spraying (misting) only, or you risk leaf damage.
How about misting the soil directly and not as much the plant? My friend was emphasizing light waterings I guess
 

Fubard

Well-Known Member
dont tie it to anything, you will kill it, if you ever want to prop a seedling up, get a straw and cut a short piece off, then slice it down the middle, stick into medium and plant inside straw with top out of straw.
also, you dont need to keep a dome over seedlings once the cotyledons open, they need light, not humidity. The medium will give your seedling all of the humidity it needs :) hope this helps.
I like that idea, my usual is three wooden toothpicks set so the sprout can't fall in any direction. Nothing is tied, the sprout can just lean against them but the straw idea definitely gives more support than my method.
 

firstnamelast

Well-Known Member
Well I tried, but it looks like the runt isn't going to make it. No problems propping it up, just didn't help much. Oh well no big deal.
 

firstnamelast

Well-Known Member
I've heard so many horror stories about over-watering seedlings but not much from under-watering surprisingly. I was told "absolutely no more than once a day" from several people but I've been definitely needing to do twice a day, and I've held off on it every single time for the fear of damping off or over-watering.

So yesterday was the first day they got enough water. I drenched them twice and now the soil is nice and damp FINALLY. The cups helped keep some area of the soil moist for an extended period but not enough unfortunately. Hopefully I didn't stunt these suckers too much! I'd like to think they'll catch up slowly but surely, but who knows maybe not.
 

deep_rob

Active Member
Soil temps are around 70-74, the temp on the light is super low it's only about 110 I can lay my hand right on it all day long. Didn't know I could have the light right on top of them, or on for 24 hrs straight. I have a fan for circulation and I ordered an inline fan/filter combo it should be here early next week. I didn't know that you could repot so soon either. Thank you some more great info
yeah, no worries.. air is key, man.. for the light, i meant, or i shouldve said, like, Lay yur hand flat, palm down, at exactly the height of yur plant tops, under the lamp, to where yur hand is illumenated by the LED... Then lower the light down until the heat on the back of yur hand becomes uncomfotable. With a 60w Led panel, i'm guessing about 10"-8" away from bulb.. Go easy b/c LEDS can burn plants, by heat, but also by intensity. ive done it before. and these are little ones, so like whatever yur comfort distance is, add like 4"-6".. ie: closest u can get is 10", so u hang yur light at 16" above.. :)
 

firstnamelast

Well-Known Member
yeah, no worries.. air is key, man.. for the light, i meant, or i shouldve said, like, Lay yur hand flat, palm down, at exactly the height of yur plant tops, under the lamp, to where yur hand is illumenated by the LED... Then lower the light down until the heat on the back of yur hand becomes uncomfotable. With a 60w Led panel, i'm guessing about 10"-8" away from bulb.. Go easy b/c LEDS can burn plants, by heat, but also by intensity. ive done it before. and these are little ones, so like whatever yur comfort distance is, add like 4"-6".. ie: closest u can get is 10", so u hang yur light at 16" above.. :)
Ah gotcha I see lol I moved it just a little bit closer yesterday to around 20" we'll see how that goes
 
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