Which would produce more DO in a DWC?

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
This isn’t a heat pump, which are vastly more efficient than a l2a chiller, it's a l2a chiller. Heat pumps are so much more efficient because they do not work the same way as a water chiller, they have a four way reversing valve which allows them to turn the evaporator into a condenser and vice versa, they move heat but work on the same principle. So I just got back to you.

I literally described the entire process to figure out the how much heat, even with an added cushion.

You do not understand that it cannot make more than 300w of heat, which is the amount of energy you put into it.

That would mean that it would be more than 100% efficient, which would mean that it generates more energy than is put into it. Which is simply impossible.

I have a very good grasp of the engineering principles behind heating and cooling.
For fucks sake, I said PM me or better yet start a thread and I'll explain how "vastly" wrong you are, I may teach you some things, that's what I do FYI lol.key words "moving heat".
 
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dstroy

Well-Known Member
For fucks sake, I said PM me or better yet start a thread and I'll explain how "vastly" wrong you are, I may teach you some things, that's what I do FYI lol.key words "moving heat".
You sure did just prove me wrong there :roll:

telling me to look at COP graph for a heat pump. Being condescending over the internet will win you friends real quick.

Technically, this IS a heat pump, but not the same kind you were referring to so yeah. For fucks sake.

Moving heat. Unless you were referring to the fact that they do move more heat the larger the temperature differential is. That is, until you reach the motherfucking setpoint when the load is low.

Then I bet you'll tell me that I can't directly convert watts to BTU, because it's an A/C unit. I fuckin know that too.

All I was trying to do was give a general idea of how much average heat that it would produce, which OBVIOUSLY will increase with the more heat that needs to be moved.

I'm glad that "you do this", so you're an HVAC technician? Good for you, nothing wrong with doing that.

I'm sure you could teach me something about how to use a manifold, or what fails on what normally since I'm NOT an HVAC technician. I'm not discounting your experience, or your knowledge AT ALL. :wall:
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
You sure did just prove me wrong there :roll:

telling me to look at COP graph for a heat pump. Being condescending over the internet will win you friends real quick.

Technically, this IS a heat pump, but not the same kind you were referring to so yeah. For fucks sake.

Moving heat. Unless you were referring to the fact that they do move more heat the larger the temperature differential is. That is, until you reach the motherfucking setpoint when the load is low.

Then I bet you'll tell me that I can't directly convert watts to BTU, because it's an A/C unit. I fuckin know that too.

All I was trying to do was give a general idea of how much average heat that it would produce, which OBVIOUSLY will increase with the more heat that needs to be moved.

I'm glad that "you do this", so you're an HVAC technician? Good for you, nothing wrong with doing that.

I'm sure you could teach me something about how to use a manifold, or what fails on what normally since I'm NOT an HVAC technician. I'm not discounting your experience, or your knowledge AT ALL. :wall:
Ok thanks lol
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
You sure did just prove me wrong there :roll:

telling me to look at COP graph for a heat pump. Being condescending over the internet will win you friends real quick.

Technically, this IS a heat pump, but not the same kind you were referring to so yeah. For fucks sake.

Moving heat. Unless you were referring to the fact that they do move more heat the larger the temperature differential is. That is, until you reach the motherfucking setpoint when the load is low.

Then I bet you'll tell me that I can't directly convert watts to BTU, because it's an A/C unit. I fuckin know that too.

All I was trying to do was give a general idea of how much average heat that it would produce, which OBVIOUSLY will increase with the more heat that needs to be moved.

I'm glad that "you do this", so you're an HVAC technician? Good for you, nothing wrong with doing that.

I'm sure you could teach me something about how to use a manifold, or what fails on what normally since I'm NOT an HVAC technician. I'm not discounting your experience, or your knowledge AT ALL. :wall:
Interesting topic, but maybe this could spin off to it's own thread.

Thanks, Man :)
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
what about these square light proof ones? they are 4 gal but I could use a 15gal tote as the reservoir to make up some water volume.
For a smaller setup, this should work great! I was originally going to use 4.1 buckets (.1 being the controller reservoir). My capacity was between 22 and 25 gallons. After switching to three, 27-gallon totes, my capacity jumped to 75 gallons. In reality, I only use around 55 gallons. There are a lot of advantages to using more water, so if you can swing it, try to go as big as you can. If you don't have much floor space, another option is to get/make taller containers, if you have vertical space.
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Got the bars supporting the reservoir now. It's filled to the top, and everything looks good. The tote could've probably held all the liquid without the bars, but it looked like it was going to bow out quite a bit. I feel more comfortable with it reinforced. Makes getting the lid on and off a little easier. The long bars are from a couple rowing oars I don't use anymore. Being oars, the tube are real rigid, so it holds the sides in tight. The cross bars are just rebar.

Over-filled the res to fill the overflow p-trap and check for leaks.
fullres001.jpg fullres002.jpg
Cut the lid because the expelled chlorine needs to escape. I could've just left the lid off, but it helps support the reservoir's shape.
fullres003.jpg

I was hoping I could find a use for this pump. This will work perfect!20171219_145411.jpg
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Question for the DWC growers - where do you put your airstone in comparison to the netpot and roots? I had my stones directly under the netpot and the roots grew sprawled out from the center, instead of growing straight down to the football. There was no doubt that the DO was getting to the center of the roots, but does that have a negative effect on the roots and growth? Would I be better off setting the stones to the sides, or in between, the netpots?
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Question for the DWC growers - where do you put your airstone in comparison to the netpot and roots? I had my stones directly under the netpot and the roots grew sprawled out from the center, instead of growing straight down to the football. There was no doubt that the DO was getting to the center of the roots, but does that have a negative effect on the roots and growth? Would I be better off setting the stones to the sides, or in between, the netpots?
I sucked at DWC lol but I would think having the ball spread out would allow the inner roots to get fresh water and DO. It'll be interesting to hear comments, my flood and drain fill nozzle is pretty violent lol. I don't think it effects growth as I end up with a 4" matt of roots by the end of the grow.
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
I sucked at DWC lol but I would think having the ball spread out would allow the inner roots to get fresh water and DO. It'll be interesting to hear comments, my flood and drain fill nozzle is pretty violent lol. I don't think it effects growth as I end up with a 4" matt of roots by the end of the grow.
Mine didn't seem to suffer either, but I really don't have anything to compare it to. Maybe I'll do a grow where one tub has the stones tight under the nets, and the other where the stones are in the middle, between the two netpots, and see if there's any difference.
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
I sucked at DWC
That's kind of odd to hear, at least to me it is. DWC is pretty easy. However, comparing a bubbling bucket to a UC is like comparing walking to driving. So I can see where it can become difficult. The same can be said about growing weed. Everywhere you look you see "growing weed is easy", but this is so misguiding, because growing weed is fairly difficult, and requires a lot of work. "Growing weed is easy" is the same as saying, "If you put a cannabis seed in soil, outside, and water it like any other plant, you can grow a marijuana plant.". But the second you throw anything else into the mix, like harvesting, you have added multitudes of difficulty with many points of failure along the way. Or, growing inside. That takes a lot of learning, research, practice, and failure, just to get okay at it. After that, it takes years to become good, or great at it. Most here at RIU have visited the GrowWeedEasy site. Has anyone noticed how many pages there are! Holy shit, it's a friggin book! How is that "easy" LOL!
 

kingtitan

Well-Known Member
Got the bars supporting the reservoir now. It's filled to the top, and everything looks good. The tote could've probably held all the liquid without the bars, but it looked like it was going to bow out quite a bit. I feel more comfortable with it reinforced. Makes getting the lid on and off a little easier. The long bars are from a couple rowing oars I don't use anymore. Being oars, the tube are real rigid, so it holds the sides in tight. The cross bars are just rebar.

Over-filled the res to fill the overflow p-trap and check for leaks.
View attachment 4060482 View attachment 4060483
Cut the lid because the expelled chlorine needs to escape. I could've just left the lid off, but it helps support the reservoir's shape.
View attachment 4060484

I was hoping I could find a use for this pump. This will work perfect!View attachment 4060485
Good call on the bar, I have used zip ties on smaller tubs and ratchet straps on bigger ones before I started using strictly Rubbermaid or Rubbermaid "indestructible" rough neck or tough neck whatever they are called.

I am a Reef Aquarium hobbyist and run sumps for my tanks and 10+ years ago I got a Walmart brand tub @ 220L and it ended up bowing too much and cracking and spilling all that salt water. The rubber maids bow but never break!
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
We're getting a lot of rain today, and I've been collecting it to feed my starts. I've been wanting to get a rain barrel, but it's not in my budget yet. However, I bet I can put together a catch bin and pipe it into my new res. The catch bin would just have to have a large surface area to catch a lot of rain. I know some people collect from their gutters, but is that water tainted at all by the shingles it passes over along the way? Anyone else using rain water?

If I do this, I'll post pics. All advice is welcome, especially if it's about saving money! :)
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
That's kind of odd to hear, at least to me it is. DWC is pretty easy. However, comparing a bubbling bucket to a UC is like comparing walking to driving. So I can see where it can become difficult. The same can be said about growing weed. Everywhere you look you see "growing weed is easy", but this is so misguiding, because growing weed is fairly difficult, and requires a lot of work. "Growing weed is easy" is the same as saying, "If you put a cannabis seed in soil, outside, and water it like any other plant, you can grow a marijuana plant.". But the second you throw anything else into the mix, like harvesting, you have added multitudes of difficulty with many points of failure along the way. Or, growing inside. That takes a lot of learning, research, practice, and failure, just to get okay at it. After that, it takes years to become good, or great at it. Most here at RIU have visited the GrowWeedEasy site. Has anyone noticed how many pages there are! Holy shit, it's a friggin book! How is that "easy" LOL!
When I did the DWC grow I had just started the indoor thing and was trying many different systems that I cobbled together. I had better luck with the modified flood and drain and stuck with it, still running it today ;). I found outdoor to be easy and started 43 years ago, got really good at it to lol. I much prefer the taste of indoor hydro though, wierd huh lol. It's almost more of a hobby really, I like to build shit lol.
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
When I did the DWC grow I had just started the indoor thing and was trying many different systems that I cobbled together. I had better luck with the modified flood and drain and stuck with it, still running it today ;). I found outdoor to be easy and started 43 years ago, got really good at it to lol. I much prefer the taste of indoor hydro though, wierd huh lol. It's almost more of a hobby really, I like to build shit lol.
I hear ya! I love building and tinkering! I also love watching my Mean Green Grow Machine chugging along rather than staring at a plant in soil LOL! It's a lot easier than soil for me, even though it's much more touchy. I've built different hydro/aero gardens years ago, because I was so interested in the different techniques. I settled with DWC, but could have just as easily ended up with building an F&D. I just always felt more comfortable with DWC.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I hear ya! I love building and tinkering! I also love watching my Mean Green Grow Machine chugging along rather than staring at a plant in soil LOL! It's a lot easier than soil for me, even though it's much more touchy. I've built different hydro/aero gardens years ago, because I was so interested in the different techniques. I settled with DWC, but could have just as easily ended up with building an F&D. I just always felt more comfortable with DWC.
I used air stones in my systems when I first started out and the reason I found I had issues with PH stability, not sure if the air stone was a contributing factor but I decided to stop using them, FD let me use flooming as a means to get DO in the water. I'm now thinking DTW for my next setup, never tried that one lol. And yes hydroponics is way easier for me as well, Aero (LP) posed a few issues that while easy to deal with we're still issues. I leave my system for a week at a time and the less issues the better :).
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Actually a fan coil is very effective outdoors if temps are cold enough and I'm probably going to switch to one as soon as copper goes up in price to sell the 200-300 feet I buried lol. They are used all the time to run hot and chilled water through. The only requirement to move the glycol mix is a small circ pump and the controller shown. Yes chillers are better in some situations but the passive fan coil is cheap as chips to run, I'm waiting for a decommissioned AC condensing unit in spring to use for glycol. Mind you they won't work much when over 60 outdoors. The op seems to like valves and stuff ;). so flow valves (ball) should be a walk lol. I use both chiller and passive and they both have advantages ;).
I'm trying to find fan coils, and I'm not getting results. I know what you're talking about, but I'm not sure they're called "fan coils". Also searched for radiators to see if any popped up. But, no luck.

Do you have any links, or alternate names for them?
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Well if you want cheap I would check the wreckers for a car rad lol. I'll have a look and see what I can find later at home. I've always figured I would use a ac condenser and just run water through it but it's not a huge issue for me with the chiller up and running now. I'll get back to you tonigh ;).
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
I'm trying to find fan coils, and I'm not getting results. I know what you're talking about, but I'm not sure they're called "fan coils". Also searched for radiators to see if any popped up. But, no luck.

Do you have any links, or alternate names for them?
are you talking about something like a transmission cooler? blow air thru it and it will cool off the res water?
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Well if you want cheap I would check the wreckers for a car rad lol. I'll have a look and see what I can find later at home. I've always figured I would use a ac condenser and just run water through it but it's not a huge issue for me with the chiller up and running now. I'll get back to you tonigh ;).
Cool, thx!
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
are you talking about something like a transmission cooler? blow air thru it and it will cool off the res water?
Yeah, I think that's what I was thinking of. For some reason I thought the coils were in a spiral, with the fan.

So what I'm thinking is mounting one outside the grow room wall, and using a pump to either run a closed-loop with an ss wort coil, or running the soup directly through it.

I could get a tranny oil radiator, like this and mount a fan, or get one with a fan, like this.

Opinions?
 
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