I've read everything still need help

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
No a good idea to leave water for use inside outside. Think of what could get in it you are bringing in your room.

I would immediately scope for insects.

And I like the Jorje Cervantes book and even more the ed Rosenthal one. Combined you will learn every thing you could need to know.

Then when you have good base knowledge things posted here will make more sense.

Or make no sense.......;-)
Your right, not a good idea to leave outside, my basement now looks like I'm running shine!
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
he means he uses a grow or veg fertilizer for both bloom and veg

I haven't looked at your journal yet but from the pic

you already know your heavy on N... the yellowing in the lower growth could be magnesium def or over watering
but im thinking its magnesium def also

I will check in on your journal in the morning and see if it gives more info about your nutes
 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
he means he uses a grow or veg fertilizer for both bloom and veg

I haven't looked at your journal yet but from the pic

you already know your heavy on N... the yellowing in the lower growth could be magnesium def or over watering
but im thinking its magnesium def also

I will check in on your journal in the morning and see if it gives more info about your nutes
Thank you I have been giving them calmagic but it has N in it and every time I do they start to claw again. The fulvic acid will be here Sunday
 

Buba Blend

Well-Known Member
@Go go n chill

If you can weigh your pots I'd be curious what they way now. What they weigh before you water and what they weigh after you water.

I skimmed your journal. You are definitely overwatering. You were adding this and that and needed to only add water.
I can't comment on any of the other stuff in this thread. I don't know the difference between humic acid and fulvic acid. I do however have a green thumb and know how to grow a plant with nice crystal in ffof with nothing but water as pictured here.
upload_2017-7-7_4-18-20.png

I have a scenario for you if it interests you. I just created it a couple of days ago. Only posted it once. No response yet when I posted it so I don't know if it's useful or stupid.


Whether it is time to water the plant I'm gonna show. You decide. There are a lot of different ways to successfully grow great crystal.
The example I'm gonna show is not the way to grow a healthy plant or great crystal, it's to make a point about whether soil is dry or not. I probably could not create this senario with a healthy plant that has a great root system because it would drink differently. This plant has healthy roots, but it does not have an extensive root system which is good for this senario because most newbies will not have great roots throughout the pot.
This plant is in a weak batch of soil (Not recommended). 20% new ffof. 20% new ff happy frog and 60% depleted ffof, mixed and put in a 3 gallon plastic pot.
It had weak overall color from the beginning. (Can't imagine why :). Eventually this plant started getting some nice color back to it. Long story. Right now it may not be pretty but it actually has some dense buds that I look forward to seeing how they finish. It's been going 9 weeks with at least two more to go.
Oh and I almost forgot. This plant spent most of its life under low light. It was approximately 4 feet away from the lights until about 2 or 3 weeks into flowering at which point it was given better light.
Note how thin the trunk is next to the popsicle stick.
The probe on top is about 3 or more inches into the soil and reads about 2. The one on the bottom as you can see is several inches into the drain hole and reads 7-8.

This pot when bone dry would weigh about 11 to 11.8 lbs with the plant in it.
If I wanted to saturate it and I don't want to do that, I could get it to about 21 lbs.

I watered it 3 days ago taking it to 15 - 16 lbs.
Right now after taking the pics it weighs 13.8 lbs.
When to water? Not sure there is a correct answer.





 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Fulvic acid is for hydroponics (water culture). It is tiny molecules that enter the roots and help the plant uptake minerals. It works inside the plant.

Humic acid is for soil. It has larger molecules and can not be taken up by the roots. It works as a soil conditioner helping aeration, repairing damage done by chemical fertilizer and increases microbiology in the soil.
 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
@Go go n chill

If you can weigh your pots I'd be curious what they way now. What they weigh before you water and what they weigh after you water.

I skimmed your journal. You are definitely overwatering. You were adding this and that and needed to only add water.
I can't comment on any of the other stuff in this thread. I don't know the difference between humic acid and fulvic acid. I do however have a green thumb and know how to grow a plant with nice crystal in ffof with nothing but water as pictured here.
View attachment 3973846

I have a scenario for you if it interests you. I just created it a couple of days ago. Only posted it once. No response yet when I posted it so I don't know if it's useful or stupid.


Whether it is time to water the plant I'm gonna show. You decide. There are a lot of different ways to successfully grow great crystal.
The example I'm gonna show is not the way to grow a healthy plant or great crystal, it's to make a point about whether soil is dry or not. I probably could not create this senario with a healthy plant that has a great root system because it would drink differently. This plant has healthy roots, but it does not have an extensive root system which is good for this senario because most newbies will not have great roots throughout the pot.
This plant is in a weak batch of soil (Not recommended). 20% new ffof. 20% new ff happy frog and 60% depleted ffof, mixed and put in a 3 gallon plastic pot.
It had weak overall color from the beginning. (Can't imagine why :). Eventually this plant started getting some nice color back to it. Long story. Right now it may not be pretty but it actually has some dense buds that I look forward to seeing how they finish. It's been going 9 weeks with at least two more to go.
Oh and I almost forgot. This plant spent most of its life under low light. It was approximately 4 feet away from the lights until about 2 or 3 weeks into flowering at which point it was given better light.
Note how thin the trunk is next to the popsicle stick.
The probe on top is about 3 or more inches into the soil and reads about 2. The one on the bottom as you can see is several inches into the drain hole and reads 7-8.

This pot when bone dry would weigh about 11 to 11.8 lbs with the plant in it.
If I wanted to saturate it and I don't want to do that, I could get it to about 21 lbs.

I watered it 3 days ago taking it to 15 - 16 lbs.
Right now after taking the pics it weighs 13.8 lbs.
When to water? Not sure there is a correct answer.





 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
@Go go n chill

If you can weigh your pots I'd be curious what they way now. What they weigh before you water and what they weigh after you water.

I skimmed your journal. You are definitely overwatering. You were adding this and that and needed to only add water.
I can't comment on any of the other stuff in this thread. I don't know the difference between humic acid and fulvic acid. I do however have a green thumb and know how to grow a plant with nice crystal in ffof with nothing but water as pictured here.
View attachment 3973846

I have a scenario for you if it interests you. I just created it a couple of days ago. Only posted it once. No response yet when I posted it so I don't know if it's useful or stupid.


Whether it is time to water the plant I'm gonna show. You decide. There are a lot of different ways to successfully grow great crystal.
The example I'm gonna show is not the way to grow a healthy plant or great crystal, it's to make a point about whether soil is dry or not. I probably could not create this senario with a healthy plant that has a great root system because it would drink differently. This plant has healthy roots, but it does not have an extensive root system which is good for this senario because most newbies will not have great roots throughout the pot.
This plant is in a weak batch of soil (Not recommended). 20% new ffof. 20% new ff happy frog and 60% depleted ffof, mixed and put in a 3 gallon plastic pot.
It had weak overall color from the beginning. (Can't imagine why :). Eventually this plant started getting some nice color back to it. Long story. Right now it may not be pretty but it actually has some dense buds that I look forward to seeing how they finish. It's been going 9 weeks with at least two more to go.
Oh and I almost forgot. This plant spent most of its life under low light. It was approximately 4 feet away from the lights until about 2 or 3 weeks into flowering at which point it was given better light.
Note how thin the trunk is next to the popsicle stick.
The probe on top is about 3 or more inches into the soil and reads about 2. The one on the bottom as you can see is several inches into the drain hole and reads 7-8.

This pot when bone dry would weigh about 11 to 11.8 lbs with the plant in it.
If I wanted to saturate it and I don't want to do that, I could get it to about 21 lbs.

I watered it 3 days ago taking it to 15 - 16 lbs.
Right now after taking the pics it weighs 13.8 lbs.
When to water? Not sure there is a correct answer.





hey thanks for looking at my journal I tried to Pay close attention to the watering and I felt like they were quite dry but I'm new so I have to go back and reevaluate
 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
@Go go n chill

If you can weigh your pots I'd be curious what they way now. What they weigh before you water and what they weigh after you water.

I skimmed your journal. You are definitely overwatering. You were adding this and that and needed to only add water.
I can't comment on any of the other stuff in this thread. I don't know the difference between humic acid and fulvic acid. I do however have a green thumb and know how to grow a plant with nice crystal in ffof with nothing but water as pictured here.
View attachment 3973846

I have a scenario for you if it interests you. I just created it a couple of days ago. Only posted it once. No response yet when I posted it so I don't know if it's useful or stupid.


Whether it is time to water the plant I'm gonna show. You decide. There are a lot of different ways to successfully grow great crystal.
The example I'm gonna show is not the way to grow a healthy plant or great crystal, it's to make a point about whether soil is dry or not. I probably could not create this senario with a healthy plant that has a great root system because it would drink differently. This plant has healthy roots, but it does not have an extensive root system which is good for this senario because most newbies will not have great roots throughout the pot.
This plant is in a weak batch of soil (Not recommended). 20% new ffof. 20% new ff happy frog and 60% depleted ffof, mixed and put in a 3 gallon plastic pot.
It had weak overall color from the beginning. (Can't imagine why :). Eventually this plant started getting some nice color back to it. Long story. Right now it may not be pretty but it actually has some dense buds that I look forward to seeing how they finish. It's been going 9 weeks with at least two more to go.
Oh and I almost forgot. This plant spent most of its life under low light. It was approximately 4 feet away from the lights until about 2 or 3 weeks into flowering at which point it was given better light.
Note how thin the trunk is next to the popsicle stick.
The probe on top is about 3 or more inches into the soil and reads about 2. The one on the bottom as you can see is several inches into the drain hole and reads 7-8.

This pot when bone dry would weigh about 11 to 11.8 lbs with the plant in it.
If I wanted to saturate it and I don't want to do that, I could get it to about 21 lbs.

I watered it 3 days ago taking it to 15 - 16 lbs.
Right now after taking the pics it weighs 13.8 lbs.
When to water? Not sure there is a correct answer.





Hey that's a nice looking plant and you grew that with no nutrients just Foxfarm ocean forest wow
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Fulvic acid is for hydroponics (water culture). It is tiny molecules that enter the roots and help the plant uptake minerals. It works inside the plant.

Humic acid is for soil. It has larger molecules and can not be taken up by the roots. It works as a soil conditioner helping aeration, repairing damage done by chemical fertilizer and increases microbiology in the soil.
Fulvic acid has been around LONG before we humans doing hydroponics. It is naturally in the soil everywhere all over the planet, both humic and fulvic acid substances. What you state here is not correct I am sorry to say. Fulvic acid is not only for hydroponics. Fulvic acid was around and has been used long before any hydroponic nutrient company slapeds a label on it and sold it. It works in soil very very well and provides many many benefits, as does humic acid, or any humates/humic shale all contain fulvic acid. Humic acid itself, contains traces of fulvic acid, they cannot seperate it completely at molecular bonds the heavy weight molecules and lighter weight, both contain traces of eachother. Watering a soil grown plant the last weeks with fulvic acid will increase nutrient uptake and clense the soil and plant tissue of excess while providing all trace minerals to the plant for a healthy end product. Humic acid takes too long and hangs around, as you said, is the larger moldecule and stores minerals in its matrix providing cation exchange at ther roots. It doesn't enter the plant the same way fulvic does but it serves a very similar purpose.
 
Last edited:

Creature1969

Well-Known Member
I can't really help you with this grow and I know it does no good right now but have you considered a different medium?
I had issues with soil for 2 grows. I think I'm just not cut out for soil.
Decided to give coco a try, treated like hydro. Water/feed daily, drain to waste type of deal (20% runoff). Things are going 1k times better. I was nervous switching because I've read things can go bad fast. They can for sure but, it's incredible being able to fix an issue in under 24 hours. The only problems I've had are over or under fed. Both very easy fixes in coco. Increase dose, or flush. Flushing coco isn't an issue like it can be with soil. No worries about beneficial bacteria, etc.

Growing in coco eliminated the guesswork I was dealing with in soil.

If you want to stick with soil and master it, I commend you. I'm not that patient anymore and coco has been a blessing for me.

Something to ponder. :bigjoint:
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Fulvic acid has been around LONG before we humans doing hydroponics. It is naturally in the soil everywhere all over the planet, both humic and fulvic acid substances. What you state here is not correct I am sorry to say. Fulvic acid is not only for hydroponics. Fulvic acid was around and has been used long before any hydroponic nutrient company slapeds a label on it and sold it. It works in soil very very well and provides many many benefits, as does humic acid, or any humates/humic shale all contain fulvic acid. Humic acid itself, contains traces of fulvic acid, they cannot seperate it completely at molecular bonds the heavy weight molecules and lighter weight, both contain traces of eachother. Watering a soil grown plant the last weeks with fulvic acid will increase nutrient uptake and clense the soil and plant tissue of excess while providing all trace minerals to the plant for a healthy end product. Humic acid takes too long and hangs around, as you said, is the larger moldecule and stores minerals in its matrix providing cation exchange at ther roots. It doesn't enter the plant the same way fulvic does but it serves a very similar purpose.

You are combining the benefits of these 2 substances. Fulvic acid is not used as a soil conditioner. It is used as a foliar spray and in water culture.

And humic acid contains fulvic acid usually.

here is a good article explaining the difference. I don't usually use maximum yield as proof but this is a very good explanation.

https://www.maximumyield.com/humic-or-fulvic-acid-what-kind-are-your-plants-on/2/1352
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
I can't really help you with this grow and I know it does no good right now but have you considered a different medium?
I had issues with soil for 2 grows. I think I'm just not cut out for soil.
Decided to give coco a try, treated like hydro. Water/feed daily, drain to waste type of deal (20% runoff). Things are going 1k times better. I was nervous switching because I've read things can go bad fast. They can for sure but, it's incredible being able to fix an issue in under 24 hours. The only problems I've had are over or under fed. Both very easy fixes in coco. Increase dose, or flush. Flushing coco isn't an issue like it can be with soil. No worries about beneficial bacteria, etc.

Growing in coco eliminated the guesswork I was dealing with in soil.

If you want to stick with soil and master it, I commend you. I'm not that patient anymore and coco has been a blessing for me.

Something to ponder. :bigjoint:

I agree ammended soil is not for beginners as the easiest choice. It is denser and tends to need drainage help like perlite and itbis tricky to know when to start feeding to avoid burning your plants.

A peat lite mix like pro mix Hp is also better to learn on. As you can pretty much just add a base fertilizer beginning to end and get great results and learn how to fertilize plants properly.
 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
@Go go n chill

If you can weigh your pots I'd be curious what they way now. What they weigh before you water and what they weigh after you water.

I skimmed your journal. You are definitely overwatering. You were adding this and that and needed to only add water.
I can't comment on any of the other stuff in this thread. I don't know the difference between humic acid and fulvic acid. I do however have a green thumb and know how to grow a plant with nice crystal in ffof with nothing but water as pictured here.
View attachment 3973846

I have a scenario for you if it interests you. I just created it a couple of days ago. Only posted it once. No response yet when I posted it so I don't know if it's useful or stupid.


Whether it is time to water the plant I'm gonna show. You decide. There are a lot of different ways to successfully grow great crystal.
The example I'm gonna show is not the way to grow a healthy plant or great crystal, it's to make a point about whether soil is dry or not. I probably could not create this senario with a healthy plant that has a great root system because it would drink differently. This plant has healthy roots, but it does not have an extensive root system which is good for this senario because most newbies will not have great roots throughout the pot.
This plant is in a weak batch of soil (Not recommended). 20% new ffof. 20% new ff happy frog and 60% depleted ffof, mixed and put in a 3 gallon plastic pot.
It had weak overall color from the beginning. (Can't imagine why :). Eventually this plant started getting some nice color back to it. Long story. Right now it may not be pretty but it actually has some dense buds that I look forward to seeing how they finish. It's been going 9 weeks with at least two more to go.
Oh and I almost forgot. This plant spent most of its life under low light. It was approximately 4 feet away from the lights until about 2 or 3 weeks into flowering at which point it was given better light.
Note how thin the trunk is next to the popsicle stick.
The probe on top is about 3 or more inches into the soil and reads about 2. The one on the bottom as you can see is several inches into the drain hole and reads 7-8.

This pot when bone dry would weigh about 11 to 11.8 lbs with the plant in it.
If I wanted to saturate it and I don't want to do that, I could get it to about 21 lbs.

I watered it 3 days ago taking it to 15 - 16 lbs.
Right now after taking the pics it weighs 13.8 lbs.
When to water? Not sure there is a correct answer.





I do not own meters like that, a scale of 2 &7? Moisture rating?.
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Do you think Maximum Yield invented Humic substances and is the know all place to obtain info on this subject? Why would you link me to that? I don't understand you. Do you think you are speaking with newbie grower?

Fulvic acid is extremely beneficial to soil grown plants at the roots, and as a foliar spray at all times all the way until harvest.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
For his purposes, using humic acid near harvest is useless. Fulvic on the other hand is not useless up until harvest, in his soil grown plants.

He doesn't need either. He needs to learn to stop listening to directions and pouring un needed stuff in his pots.

And to learn what the plants are telling him and the basics of fertilizing.

I suggest either learning to use the fox Farm trio only and no other products or better a 1 part complete fertilizer for simplicity.

Only an advanced grower with the knowledge to use the additional products with healthy plants will likely see any difference.

Humic acid works better with seaweed extract. It has been tested extensively in food production.

Both are included in the Botanicare Pure Blend Pro I use.

If I went with Jacks or Dyna gro or something with no organic input I would add humic and seaweed extract in the proper ratio.

But it is not necessary for a great harvest.
 

Indacouch

Well-Known Member
Just my 2 cents after reading through ....like others have said already ...it looks like your overwatering and feeding them to much ......the one pic looks like you reacted to a bit of yellow by slamming them with N ....easy to tell by your new growth.....also, there's no need to adjust PH in ffof ..or any good soil for that matter ...it will buffer itself ....I think taking the advice of good watering habits and dialing back the N a good bit ..will get you headed in the rite direction ....this is how we learn ...I would also suggest you start a personal grow journal and write everything down .....with some antiques called a notebook and a pencil o_O......it will help you down the road ....GL
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
He doesn't need either. He needs to learn to stop listening to directions and pouring un needed stuff in his pots.

And to learn what the plants are telling him and the basics of fertilizing.

I suggest either learning to use the fox Farm trio only and no other products or better a 1 part complete fertilizer for simplicity.

Only an advanced grower with the knowledge to use the additional products with healthy plants will likely see any difference.

Humic acid works better with seaweed extract. It has been tested extensively in food production.

Both are included in the Botanicare Pure Blend Pro I use.

If I went with Jacks or Dyna gro or something with no organic input I would add humic and seaweed extract in the proper ratio.

But it is not necessary for a great harvest.
It's about the super green almost ready to chop down plants, to not have chemical weed, days ago and in another thread I suggested him to water 2-3 times with only water and fulvic acid, to help mop up and clense his plant of excess shit, then few clean waterings/flush at the end before harvest. This is where the fulvic talk came from... Or don't do it..LOL.. I don't care anymore.. bro!!! just fuck it. :joint:
(he didn't listen anyway.)
 

Indacouch

Well-Known Member
He doesn't need either. He needs to learn to stop listening to directions and pouring un needed stuff in his pots.

And to learn what the plants are telling him and the basics of fertilizing.

I suggest either learning to use the fox Farm trio only and no other products or better a 1 part complete fertilizer for simplicity.

Only an advanced grower with the knowledge to use the additional products with healthy plants will likely see any difference.

Humic acid works better with seaweed extract. It has been tested extensively in food production.

Both are included in the Botanicare Pure Blend Pro I use.

If I went with Jacks or Dyna gro or something with no organic input I would add humic and seaweed extract in the proper ratio.

But it is not necessary for a great harvest.
The FF trio and soil are an awesome way to learn and still grow amazing medicine ....AGREED

Once again great advice MMG
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Do you think Maximum Yield invented Humic substances and is the know all place to obtain info on this subject? Why would you link me to that? I don't understand you. Do you think you are speaking with newbie grower?

Fulvic acid is extremely beneficial to soil grown plants at the roots, and as a foliar spray at all times all the way until harvest.
I said I used it as it had a good easy to understand explanation.

I don't get my info from this industry. Why are you being condescending? Your info is not all correct. Did you even read the link.

I could have posted 100 different links. They will all confirm what I said.

It is not good to tell a struggling new grower to use advanced products or confusing somewhat mis information.

You said fulvic is a soil conditioner. It is not. And it is not used in agriculture as such. A proper ratio of humic and seaweed extract is used to break down and chelate locked up nutrients. And usually for heavy clay filled soils. Potting mixes have excellent properties already for nutrient uptake. And don't lock up minerals like natural soil.
 
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