VIPARSPECTRA led vs cob kit

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
big difference between current china LEDs and HID
I often steer a newbie to HID MH,, if they dont want to do the work of DIY cob, or they just dont understand , some people fear working with wires,, its ok i guess,, we are all differant , but a new bie with a HID mh set up will grow much better bud than CFL or blurple lights,, sure that stirs all types of emotions in some,
 

Squatch69

Well-Known Member
Can you please explain ?
He is correct. Lol, i just purchased a 200w 4 cob from Dan at Timber this morning! Im replacing a viparspectra 900....crazy. dont get me wrong, ive had a lot of fun and learned a ton with my vipar, BUT,if you want to get serious results- you need better equipment. Factory made panels are wasteful, plain and simple. I used to defend them quite often. Perhaps if you do some more research on PAR and PPFD you will come on over to the cob side? I am super excited again!
 

Zbud94

Well-Known Member
He is correct. Lol, i just purchased a 200w 4 cob from Dan at Timber this morning! Im replacing a viparspectra 900....crazy. dont get me wrong, ive had a lot of fun and learned a ton with my vipar, BUT,if you want to get serious results- you need better equipment. Factory made panels are wasteful, plain and simple. I used to defend them quite often. Perhaps if you do some more research on PAR and PPFD you will come on over to the cob side? I am super excited again!
I can't decide if I want to get a timber citi or if I want to build my own citi...
 

Squatch69

Well-Known Member
If your a newbie and looking to experiment with LED then imo viparspectra is one of the best chinese imports on amazon/ebay, slightly above marshydro but bellow brands such as Budmaster and PlatinumLED.

If you already have exp and are looking to maximize your grow then the current consensus is COB's blow blurples out the water.
Well said
 

Zbud94

Well-Known Member
I know the heat sinks aren't in the cart, they were out of stock. Should I run active or passive ? Thinking active to run more power if needed! What else am I gonna need ? Besides some simple ground wire?
 

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Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
I know the heat sinks aren't in the cart, they were out of stock. Should I run active or passive ? Thinking active to run more power if needed! What else am I gonna need ? Besides some simple ground wire?
if you run active, you will also need to get a power supply to run the pc fans, and its double the wiring,, having ran both active and passive now,, i much prefer the passive,, you should be able to get passives thru other sellers,,
I will also say, i was pleased by the amount of air movement in the canopy by the pc fans when turned up on high,,
but with passive your lights are more certain to not fail, as a pc fan failure would not be such a good thing
 

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
if you do go active cooling with the artic 11 pc sinks,, i used this power supply for the pc fans,, it lets you adjust the speed of the fans to suit your needs,, quieter,, louder,, ect, its adjustable,,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-AC-DC-Power-Adapter-1000mA-1-5V-3V-4-5V-6V-7-5V-9V-12V-110-220-Volt/252637824075?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=40778&meid=5ec5dde08aba4df595e58d5b7a87b441&pid=100011&rk=3&rkt=12&sd=262544552575


i might ad,, if you go active cooling with pc heat sinks, you WILL have to drill and tap the heat sinks yourself, and its not all that easy,, i have broken taps off and had to redrill, ect
 

Zbud94

Well-Known Member
That makes sense! So running each cob around 50 watts would be fine passive ? So then I could remove one of those drivers !
 

Zbud94

Well-Known Member
if you do go active cooling with the artic 11 pc sinks,, i used this power supply for the pc fans,, it lets you adjust the speed of the fans to suit your needs,, quieter,, louder,, ect, its adjustable,,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-AC-DC-Power-Adapter-1000mA-1-5V-3V-4-5V-6V-7-5V-9V-12V-110-220-Volt/252637824075?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=40778&meid=5ec5dde08aba4df595e58d5b7a87b441&pid=100011&rk=3&rkt=12&sd=262544552575


i might ad,, if you go active cooling with pc heat sinks, you WILL have to drill and tap the heat sinks yourself, and its not all that easy,, i have broken taps off and had to redrill, ect
Yeah I'm not to keen on the drilling aspect of this diy. Like to keep that to a minimum.
 

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
Yeah I'm not to keen on the drilling aspect of this diy. Like to keep that to a minimum.
agree with you,, drilling and tapping was a royal pain in the butt,, and added lots of time to the previous builds,, but back then the passives were not out yet,, so its all we could do
but with the passive predrilled sinks and the cob holders,, there is no drilling and no soldering any more,, espeically using those wago connectors
 

chillok

Well-Known Member
I can't decide if I want to get a timber citi or if I want to build my own citi...
I'm doing a pictorial review of a Timber 2 light kit, hoping it will help folks in this situation. Timber kits are great.. I'm no wiring expert and the Timber kits feature very good wiring, recently upgraded to automotive grade water resistance. Pic and Dan's comments:

_20170107_130417.JPG

..these are automotive grade waterproof connectors that we use in all of our kits wherever there is an electrical connection. Additionally, we also use glue lined military grade heat shrink on the electrical fused inlet connection, which is rated for 250 V at 10 Amps and has a fuse (with a spare) in case of electrical surges – standard on all of our products, kits and framework units.

New change we made about a month ago – now the potentiometers are all detachable (with the same waterproof interconnects) in cast you want to run without dimming, or in case of failure so that you don’t have to send the entire power supply back, and will not result in down time in the event of a potentiometer failure.
 
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