Co2 and Temps

[DR. VonDankenstine]

It's hard even for experienced grower to get the temp/venting/enrichment cycles down--a lot of growers want to use the juice but don't want to waste it by venting to waste(might as well throw your frog skins out the window) I have seen it done many different way--some better than mine and others worse---I only exhaust my room when the juice and lights are off-I run my exhaust all night long-I never vent during the on hours. My juice comes on 1 hour after lights on and 1 hour before lights out. My C.A.P. ppm3 keeps the juice at 1500ppm's---my room temp never climbs above 83 but I have an port A/C set to 85 ready to kick on if shit hits the fan or things do climb or if my passive light fans go down. I love the juice and when all things are going correctly it will def give you gains. Hope any of this helps.

 

[bongrippinbob]

I am going to get an A/C unit for my cab here fairly soon. Probably after this harvest. I have to get a "portable" one though, not a window. I have a window box on my window so I can't have it hanging out the window. And I can't just hang it in my cab because the exhaust of the a/c would heat up the room so much and I'm sure its not good for you.
As soon as I get that a/c, everything will be fine. I'm just going to have to tough it out this grow. If the plants don't react well to the temps with the co2, I will just save it for next grow, and just keep my temps around 85 with my exhuast how I usually run it.
But like I said in an earlier post, I used to keep my themometer on the wall on my cab, this time it is right under the light. If I move it over to the wall, it says a much lower temp. I am not sure which reading to use. Under the light gets lots of radiant heat while the one on the wall is telling me the air temp. When it says 95 under the light, it is closer to 90 on the wall, so who knows.

 

[calicat]

It's hard even for experienced grower to get the temp/venting/enrichment cycles down--a lot of growers want to use the juice but don't want to waste it by venting to waste(might as well throw your frog skins out the window) I have seen it done many different way--some better than mine and others worse---I only exhaust my room when the juice and lights are off-I run my exhaust all night long-I never vent during the on hours. My juice comes on 1 hour after lights on and 1 hour before lights out. My C.A.P. ppm3 keeps the juice at 1500ppm's---my room temp never climbs above 83 but I have an port A/C set to 85 ready to kick on if shit hits the fan or things do climb or if my passive light fans go down. I love the juice and when all things are going correctly it will def give you gains. Hope any of this helps.

Nice too see someone else from humboldt here.

 

[DR. VonDankenstine]

Nice bro---whats shakin???

 

[calicat]

I am going to get an A/C unit for my cab here fairly soon. Probably after this harvest. I have to get a "portable" one though, not a window. I have a window box on my window so I can't have it hanging out the window. And I can't just hang it in my cab because the exhaust of the a/c would heat up the room so much and I'm sure its not good for you.
As soon as I get that a/c, everything will be fine. I'm just going to have to tough it out this grow. If the plants don't react well to the temps with the co2, I will just save it for next grow, and just keep my temps around 85 with my exhuast how I usually run it.
But like I said in an earlier post, I used to keep my themometer on the wall on my cab, this time it is right under the light. If I move it over to the wall, it says a much lower temp. I am not sure which reading to use. Under the light gets lots of radiant heat while the one on the wall is telling me the air temp. When it says 95 under the light, it is closer to 90 on the wall, so who knows.

I place my thermometer unit on the wall and one next to the lamp to get a mean difference in the temperature from the radiant light as well as the ambiant room temperature.

 

[calicat]

Nice bro---whats shakin???

Not a whole lot about to wrap it up and take a nap gotta work tonight.

 

[DR. VonDankenstine]

well chat soon bro---get some rest...

 

[bongrippinbob]

That is what I was thinking cali. So if I were to do that, and my temps were at 96 under the light, and 90 on the wall, I would guess we're looking at about 93 degrees. Still warmer than I want, but that means that when the exhaust is on I'm looking at about 83 degrees which is just fine for me.

 

[bongrippinbob]

I forgot to mention the venting to waste part. My cab is only 100cu ft of so, so I don't mind "wasting" the co2. A 20lb tank will last like 200 days with the schedule I'm using.
If I had a better timer, I would give it more injections, but it will only do 6 cycles.

 

[DR. VonDankenstine]

If you juice your cab to a steady 1500ppm with light-on you would get 85 days off a 20 pound---with running exhaust--allot less.

 

[bongrippinbob]

I put my thermometer on the wall, right at the same height as the canopy, and turned off my exhaust and gave a dose of Co2.
The fans have been off for an hour now, and temps have not gone over 90degrees. I don't know which thermometer to believe. If its this one on the wall, I will be able to have the enrichment period be a lot longer because it looks like they will be sitting at a constant 90.
If the thermometer under the light is right, then I can only do it for like 15-20 min at a time. I don't know what to do.

 

[unity]

Wow, I do not get a 20 pounder to last that long. I'm in a sealed room as well. I'm still on my first tank of co2, and it's my first grow in my new grow space, so I'm not sure how long it will last, but I'm calculating out to like 3-5 weeks, depending on my light schedule.
Keep in mind my space is only 72 CF. Before my space was sealed I blew through a 20 pounder in under 6 days during flower , but it made the bud you see in my Avetar

Unity

 

[bongrippinbob]

I think I may have figured out why my temps get up so high even though I'm using an air cooled hood. My fan cooling my hood sucks, or should I say doesn't suck much. It is a 420cfm duct booster fan.
I have a much longer duct run with this cab than my last one, and I think the pressure from the duct is causing a major drop in my cfms from that fan. My 130cfm intake has more "suction" on the end of the duct than my 420cfm fan. I think I'm going to fork out the $175 to get a good 400 and something cfm fan to hook up to the hood. I think this will help a lot with my temps.

 

[unity]

I think I may have figured out why my temps get up so high even though I'm using an air cooled hood. My fan cooling my hood sucks, or should I say doesn't suck much. It is a 420cfm duct booster fan.
I have a much longer duct run with this cab than my last one, and I think the pressure from the duct is causing a major drop in my cfms from that fan. My 130cfm intake has more "suction" on the end of the duct than my 420cfm fan. I think I'm going to fork out the $175 to get a good 400 and something cfm fan to hook up to the hood. I think this will help a lot with my temps.

I'm in HVAC, the in duct fans have notoriously poor static performance. I use can fans, they are quiet, moisture sealed and have very good static characteristics . I would push the air through the light instead of pull

Good luck mate,
Unity

 

[bongrippinbob]

I just went out today and bought some insulated duct for my light. It is really hot, so this should help cool it down. It has an R rating of 6. I also bought some insulating foil/foam tape that is like 1/8" thick, 12" wide and 15'long. It has an R rating of 3. I am going to insulate the outside of my hood. The sides are a bit warm, so I am hoping this will help.

Thanks for the tip on the fan Unity. So I should blow the air through the hood and out instead of sucking it through is what you are saying right? I am going to try and get a can fan for my light here in the next week or so. I think with the insulated duct, the reflector being insulated, and a larger fan, I should be fine with my temps.

Last night the high was 92degrees from the thermometer on the wall. I was looking on a website and it said 80-92 degrees is perfect for Co2. This was regular horticulture website not a pot site, I think its pretty reliable. Its also going to start cooling down outside because its getting closer to sept. It will be nice when the days stop hitting 100degrees, even though my lights don't come on until 8:30pm.

 

[unity]

I just went out today and bought some insulated duct for my light. It is really hot, so this should help cool it down. It has an R rating of 6. I also bought some insulating foil/foam tape that is like 1/8" thick, 12" wide and 15'long. It has an R rating of 3. I am going to insulate the outside of my hood. The sides are a bit warm, so I am hoping this will help.

Thanks for the tip on the fan Unity. So I should blow the air through the hood and out instead of sucking it through is what you are saying right? I am going to try and get a can fan for my light here in the next week or so. I think with the insulated duct, the reflector being insulated, and a larger fan, I should be fine with my temps.

Last night the high was 92degrees from the thermometer on the wall. I was looking on a website and it said 80-92 degrees is perfect for Co2. This was regular horticulture website not a pot site, I think its pretty reliable. Its also going to start cooling down outside because its getting closer to sept. It will be nice when the days stop hitting 100degrees, even though my lights don't come on until 8:30pm.

You know, I was looking at my set up again and noticed that the only reason I decided to push instead of pull through the light was that I was going to use my 600W cooltube which has a very arodynamic design. With my Xtra-sun it might be better to suck through it due to the turbulence that the design will create. I even removed some of my light bulb support in order to get better airflow. Bogles the mind why they would block my exhaust from the light with a big ass light bulb support .
I use a 6" Fantech rated at 260cfm @ 2" static. It sucks about 130 W, which is the trade off you make for static, but it gets the job done
Good move on the hood, insulating it!! I did the same on mine, I used the leftover duct insulation, it's r6. I also taped where the glass meets the housing, so the light exhaust doesn't suck out my co2,lol.

BTW, my ambient temps are 76 degrees, my light is cooled, insulated to the max, my space is sealed and without the ac my temps would shoot up to about 103 degrees. I think that without ac we are doomed in a sealed environment.

Unity

 

[DR. VonDankenstine]

A tip----You can pick up an inside/outside remote thermometer at wal-fart----I take the outside one and put it in my exit duct off my lights---good way to tune and maximize your flow.

 

[bongrippinbob]

I think I am going to ditch the insulation for the time being and spend that $50 on another duct booster fan. I will have one blowing and one sucking on either end of the duct. I think this will increase my air flow quite a bit. I think that if I can actually get 400cfm through the light, I will have a fairly cool running hood and may not need the insulation.
If this doesn't work, I will spend the money on a nice 400 and something cfm can fan for the hood. The reason I am going so big on it is because I plan on putting another 600watt light in my 4x4 space in the very near future, I'm hoping for Oct. I figure I can use a "Y" adapter and use the one fan to vent both lights.
I will also be getting an a/c unit. It really sucks I have to get a portable one since I can't just set it in a window. They run like an extra $200. Oh well, I guess thats the price you pay when you don't want anyone knowing whats going on in that bedroom.

 

[stucklikechuck]

So CO2 during flower will cause thinner stalks? can anyone else confirm this? should i only be using CO2 during flower?

 

[unity]

I think I am going to ditch the insulation for the time being and spend that $50 on another duct booster fan. I will have one blowing and one sucking on either end of the duct. I think this will increase my air flow quite a bit. I think that if I can actually get 400cfm through the light, I will have a fairly cool running hood and may not need the insulation.
If this doesn't work, I will spend the money on a nice 400 and something cfm can fan for the hood. The reason I am going so big on it is because I plan on putting another 600watt light in my 4x4 space in the very near future, I'm hoping for Oct. I figure I can use a "Y" adapter and use the one fan to vent both lights.
I will also be getting an a/c unit. It really sucks I have to get a portable one since I can't just set it in a window. They run like an extra $200. Oh well, I guess thats the price you pay when you don't want anyone knowing whats going on in that bedroom.

You will fall in love with the ac, I know I did You will not be able to get 400 cfm through a 6 inch duct, too much static. Here is a link to Fantech, Fantech: FR Series Fans , check the performance curve of the different fans, .2 static is a good number.
How come you can't rig a window unit?