DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

CellarDweller

Well-Known Member
Just realised on the small chance that someone cares about the above, it's not perfectly aligned etc on the columns: to explain:
2 lamps at 1400mA, total 2800mA
Percentages tell you how much each lamp is receiving at any given hour.
% of total is the % of the total light being dispersed
Total is the total mA in play at any point in time.

I figure with 3 of these 2 COB set-ups, there would be an excellent amount of light for a 2" x 4" area.
 

Sussy

Member
Glad someone understands the struggle... But At last... I have decided upon the vero29 due to price, efficiency, and a few grow logs that's showed there capabilities.

But supra if I use the ballasts you suggested from ebay above how would I go about dimming the entire system at once?

And for craps and giggles I bet you guys never thought you'd see a 960w cob lol, gaurntee to put a hole through your house to alert the cops Hahaha.

http://www.led-professional.com/products/leds_led_modules/flip-chip-opto-introduces-300-w-600-w-and-960-w-cob-leds
I messaged the company and its only $50 USD for a 300w chip :P I might get a few to test out

I've attached the pdf they sent me with specs, can someone who knows spectrum wavelengths recommend which chip (3000,4000 or 5000k) for flowering?
Im guessing if I ran the chip at 300w it would be too much light (between 26750 and 29550 lumens @ 8000 mA)
 

Attachments

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
@CellarDweller An example build: a pair of CXA3070 3000K AB + a few Luxeon ES Royal Blues on these 1.45A drivers. The CXAs would be 54W each @ 43.3% efficiency and you could "bypass" the blues during the flower phase using a switch and they should fit on the CPU heatsink. That would give you some control of the blue percentage, very good cost compromise, very good efficiency and even color mixing. The only downside I could see, the Luxeon blues are only rated for 1A. I have run them for short periods at 1.45A with no problems but worth mentioning.
 

CellarDweller

Well-Known Member
@CellarDweller An example build: a pair of CXA3070 3000K AB + a few Luxeon ES Royal Blues on these 1.45A drivers. The CXAs would be 54W each @ 43.3% efficiency and you could "bypass" the blues during the flower phase using a switch and they should fit on the CPU heatsink. That would give you some control of the blue percentage, very good cost compromise, very good efficiency and even color mixing. The only downside I could see, the Luxeon blues are only rated for 1A. I have run them for short periods at 1.45A with no problems but worth mentioning.
Thanks for that Supra. I do kind of like the large uplift in light intensity from sourcing blues from 5000k, though Royal Blue is probably best delivered via the Luxeon ES you suggest.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the data sheet Sussy. 3000K COB @ 8A dissipates 325W @ 82lm/W or 25.2% efficiency and $0.36/PAR W.

For comparison the 3000K Vero 29 @ 3.6A dissipates 142.5W @ 104.6lm/W or 32.6% efficiency and $0.61/PAR W

So at those high levels of dissipation and relatively low cost/efficiency the question becomes, is the Flip Chip better/cheaper than HPS?

Unfortunately there seems to be an error in the datasheet on the most important chart, the current droop chart seems to be for a different model and it puts nominal output at 700mA rather than 8000mA, so I cannot gauge the performance when run soft.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Thanks for that Supra. I do kind of like the large uplift in light intensity from sourcing blues from 5000k, though Royal Blue is probably best delivered via the Luxeon ES you suggest.
You could reverse the plan and go with 5000K and add red/deep red during flowering.
 

Blakhash

Well-Known Member
I have a few samples of the 960w version coming just for shits and giggles. A novelty of sorts.

View attachment 3363695
Hahah dauuuuuum man that thing is narley, I thought you guys would get a kick out of a 960w light Haha, and @SupraSPL I understand your Concern, even the cost to get a ballast to run 300w or good Lord a 960w led would run up in the $600, range and the cooling that sicker... It may just be easier to get a hortilux, and my other concern would be spread/distance, that thing would be a laser literally bleaching the plants.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
True, once we get a look at the current droop we can get a better idea of what current makes sense to run them at (if any). A driver like this might be ideal to run the 300W version Sussy posted, 5.5A up to 40V for $65.
 

bizfactory

Well-Known Member
I've got few quick questions. This thread is ridiculously helpful already.
  1. Would it be a terrible idea to veg and flower under just 3000k crees? Has anyone tried that?
  2. This is dumb but...if I can get 4x CXB3070 ABs and power it with 1 HLG-185H-C1400B, I need to wire the LEDs in series, correct?
  3. Any suggestions on good material to mount 4x cpu cooler / cob assemblies? I have a max of about 24" length for the whole thing.
  4. If I were to double this setup in the future....so 8x CXB3070 2x HLG-185H-C1400B, would this be overkill for my 39"x39"x60" tent?
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
I've got few quick questions. This thread is ridiculously helpful already.
  1. Would it be a terrible idea to veg and flower under just 3000k crees? Has anyone tried that?
  2. This is dumb but...if I can get 4x CXB3070 ABs and power it with 1 HLG-185H-C1400B, I need to wire the LEDs in series, correct?
  3. Any suggestions on good material to mount 4x cpu cooler / cob assemblies? I have a max of about 24" length for the whole thing.
  4. If I were to double this setup in the future....so 8x CXB3070 2x HLG-185H-C1400B, would this be overkill for my 39"x39"x60" tent?
1) They work well for vegging, too.
2) Yes.
3) Aluminum "L" extrusions are quite handy and also cheap.
4) It'd certainly be high intensity but I wouldn't call it overkill. You might not get the best g/w results but your buds would be monsters.
 

Dloomis514

Well-Known Member
I've got few quick questions. This thread is ridiculously helpful already.
  1. Would it be a terrible idea to veg and flower under just 3000k crees? Has anyone tried that?
  2. This is dumb but...if I can get 4x CXB3070 ABs and power it with 1 HLG-185H-C1400B, I need to wire the LEDs in series, correct?
  3. Any suggestions on good material to mount 4x cpu cooler / cob assemblies? I have a max of about 24" length for the whole thing.
  4. If I were to double this setup in the future....so 8x CXB3070 2x HLG-185H-C1400B, would this be overkill for my 39"x39"x60" tent?
1. Lots do veg and grow under the same light and choose 3k because that is prefered for flower
2. Don't know for sure, but i think series is the way to go
3. https://www.rollitup.org/t/heatsinks-for-diy-led-lamps.851907/ has the heatsink info you need
4. for a 10 sq foot area like yours, 8 would not be overkill, you need about 1 COB per sq foot at 1.4 A for good lighting
 

bizfactory

Well-Known Member
3) Aluminum "L" extrusions are quite handy and also cheap.
Do you have an example or link for these? I plan on using the alpine 11s so something those could mount to easily. A place for the driver would be cool too. Maybe just a wood board with 4x eyelets?
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I've got few quick questions. This thread is ridiculously helpful already.
  1. Would it be a terrible idea to veg and flower under just 3000k crees? Has anyone tried that?
  2. This is dumb but...if I can get 4x CXB3070 ABs and power it with 1 HLG-185H-C1400B, I need to wire the LEDs in series, correct?
  3. Any suggestions on good material to mount 4x cpu cooler / cob assemblies? I have a max of about 24" length for the whole thing.
  4. If I were to double this setup in the future....so 8x CXB3070 2x HLG-185H-C1400B, would this be overkill for my 39"x39"x60" tent?
The aluminum L brackets are awesome. You might be able to source them at a hardware store.

edit: eyes playing tricks...
 
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AbeFroman

Well-Known Member
Ok. So I got 10 3590 3000K BD and 5000K CB to play with. My question is if I build a light with 5 BDs using a HLG-185-C500A. What kind of watt output can I expect to get?I am trying to cover a 4x4 area using two sets of 5.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Each CXA3590 3K BD @ 500mA will dissipate about 35W @ 47% efficiency, so that is 350W of dissipation or 22W/ft² or 10.3PAR W/ft² in your 4X4. I think that would give you good results if you have short ladies, but I prefer and recommend greater intensity, 30-35W/ft² or 15 PAR W/ft².
 

bizfactory

Well-Known Member
The aluminum L brackets are awesome. You might be able to source them at a hardware store.

A heads up though, only 3 CXA3070s fit on the HLG-185H-C1400. You can fit (5) on an HLG-185H-C1050.

A third option, if you can successfully source CXB3070, you can fit (4) on an HLG-185H-C1400. The CXB have a significantly lower Vf according to the datasheets but I have not tested any yet.
Yep, I order 4x CXB ABs from digikey...we'll see what they say when I call to confirm the order here in a few minutes. I actually saw your post saying you could do 4 CXBs on the HLG-185G-C1400 and "Cree must be watching this thread" 8) Hopefully your (and my) calculations are correct. If not, I'll just run 3x CXBs and have a spare for the next light bar.

With the driver above, how low can I dim with a potentiometer until the lights just straight cut out? I assume once the vF gets low enough, the lights will just stop even turning on...is this correct? Also what resistance would I need when looking for a pot? I am getting the C1400B (external dimming) FYI.
 
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