what drivers i need for 2 vero 29

akaki

Well-Known Member
Can you sugest me any ccdriver dc/dc or ac/dc to power my vero 29 2.1amps seperately?
 
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Looks promising, even if it only does manage to do ~1.65 A (guessing). Hope all the money wasn't spent on the fancy case though, lol. Can't wait for your report, I may grab a couple of those if they work out for you.
 

akaki

Well-Known Member
so as i can see we dont have very big variety of led driver for those veros chips.But it seems a good driver and cheap.thanks supra i will wait your report to start my project.
is it any problem to drive with 42v instead of 40? 10w less per cheep is it big deference or no?becuse sds you said in previous post that vero's has better efficieancy at fully load .
sds ... supra if you guys find any dc/dc cc power supply could be usefull i have a 3 ac/dc drivers at 100w maybe i can use them with a dc/dc cc power supply.
thanks for your advise guys..
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Good find akaki, if that driver actually outputs 2500mA or so it would be a decent deal and possibly a good match for the Vero29. But if it puts out 3A, the Vero 29 vF might want to be a bit higher than 40vF.

The Vero 29 performs better than most at high currents, but just like all LEDs it performs more efficiently the softer you drive it. At some point, it becomes cheaper to run a pair of them softer rather than run one very hard. Then of course there is the savings in electrical cost, which help pay for the increased up front cost over time. This is especially true with grow lamps and even more true if you have very high electrical costs in your area.
 

akaki

Well-Known Member
Good find akaki, if that driver actually outputs 2500mA or so it would be a decent deal and possibly a good match for the Vero29. But if it puts out 3A, the Vero 29 vF might want to be a bit higher than 40vF.

The Vero 29 performs better than most at high currents, but just like all LEDs it performs more efficiently the softer you drive it. At some point, it becomes cheaper to run a pair of them softer rather than run one very hard. Then of course there is the savings in electrical cost, which help pay for the increased up front cost over time. This is especially true with grow lamps and even more true if you have very high electrical costs in your area.
So....maybe i have to find something with current output at 2.5-2.8 amps it could be better?...if i understand well...i'm elecrtrician...i'm not working with elecrtonics but i can figure it out... something like that?http://www.globalmarket.com/product-info/120w-led-driver-42-5v-2-8a-saa-pse-619424.html Vf could be at 40v? (of course if i can find something with output current at 2.1 amps and 100w at 40 v it could be better).Thanks for you advise!!!Time to go to work cables and fuses need me.:fire:
 

akaki

Well-Known Member
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akaki

Well-Known Member
Good find akaki, if that driver actually outputs 2500mA or so it would be a decent deal and possibly a good match for the Vero29. But if it puts out 3A, the Vero 29 vF might want to be a bit higher than 40vF.

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so...if the current output is bigger Vf becomes bigger too?
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
thats correct, you can see the vF graph in the vero pdf, although it will vary from chip to chip and to complicate matters, vF decreases as junction temp rises.
 

akaki

Well-Known Member
thats correct, you can see the vF graph in the vero pdf, although it will vary from chip to chip and to complicate matters, vF decreases as junction temp rises.
sorry supra one more question...the driver that i will use is the meanwell lpf 90d 42.
in the datashit sais."Using the built-in dimming function on LPF-90D can't turn the lighting fixture totally dark" is any dimmer switch /screw on the psu?
 

Rooster99

Well-Known Member
sorry supra one more question...the driver that i will use is the meanwell lpf 90d 42.
in the datashit sais."Using the built-in dimming function on LPF-90D can't turn the lighting fixture totally dark" is any dimmer switch /screw on the psu?
In most cases it will be a pair of wires. Some drivers need a signal from something like an arduino (PWM). Others will allow you to wire in a potentiomer to control it. I have limited experience with the PWM but I have used a meanwell that used a pot, and it was pretty simple.
This is all coming from memory, so feel free to jimp in if this info is not correct.
 
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