ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
No problem, glad to help easy as pie.
Electrical Ques. If I can help someone I will...
- Thread starter kushmonster
- Start date
dankiestdank
Well-Known Member
Would a 10 amp timer burn out on using like 10 CFL's in a surge protector?
ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
No, no way actually, you could probally run like 50 of them on one timer.
dankiestdank
Well-Known Member
Thank you GG!
ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
Oh and if you want to know a trick.
Its Watts/Volts = Amps
so 50 watt CFL / 120 volts (usa current) = .41 amps
If you have 10 amps you can run 20 50 watt CFL's on it.
or
like 50 23 watt CFL's
Its Watts/Volts = Amps
so 50 watt CFL / 120 volts (usa current) = .41 amps
If you have 10 amps you can run 20 50 watt CFL's on it.
or
like 50 23 watt CFL's
dankiestdank
Well-Known Member
Great. You're obviously very experienced. I'll be growing soon. 
ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
good to hear sir, post a link to your journal in your signature and Ill check it out if I run into you again....
dankiestdank
Well-Known Member
Will do. 
CustomHydro
Well-Known Member
I have a problem. I wired up a 40amp dual pole breaker to my room. I strung out 6 single outlet boxes and decided to test it out. I plugged my fan in and it has too much power! It will only run on high, even higher than high! It smells like something is burning. When I plug the fan into a pre-existing outlet it works fine. Any Ideas?? The only thing I think it could really be is I wired the poles wrong, I will go switch them now and see what happens....
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
LOL You wired it for 240V.
Hook your meter to the outlet, and see if its 240 across the main lines and 120 from each to ground.
Each wire off the break is 120. but 180^ out from each other, so when one is +120V the other is -120V hence a 240V sum.
ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
Is the fan meant to run on 120V.
Because you wired up a 240v outlet.
Also make sure you used 240 recpes!
Are you in the USA? because if you are then guranteed that the fan your running and almost every single other electrical appliance you have is 120v.
Also what gauge wire did you use for 40 amps?
Because you wired up a 240v outlet.
Also make sure you used 240 recpes!
Are you in the USA? because if you are then guranteed that the fan your running and almost every single other electrical appliance you have is 120v.
Also what gauge wire did you use for 40 amps?
ganjagoddess
Well-Known Member
damn BBB you are quick.
hi everyone I got an electrical question for ya.
I got a hot tub line 240V, that is run off two breakers tied together 50 AMP each.
I would like to re run this in to the G.R. and use it to run my lights.
How easy would this be?
Is it worth it?
What do I need to know about 240V out lets and wiring to make it work?
I have a meeter and some minor electrical exp, enough to know I don't want to screw this up
Thanks
Ps meter and small screwdriver on floor...... Backing away slowly.... With hands in the air.
I got a hot tub line 240V, that is run off two breakers tied together 50 AMP each.
I would like to re run this in to the G.R. and use it to run my lights.
How easy would this be?
Is it worth it?
What do I need to know about 240V out lets and wiring to make it work?
I have a meeter and some minor electrical exp, enough to know I don't want to screw this up
Thanks
Ps meter and small screwdriver on floor...... Backing away slowly.... With hands in the air.
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
Is the room where the tub is? 50 amp wire is expensive. If you are running other side of the house, then not the best idea. Though you are looking at 100amps of 120V One breaker would work with a lot left over.
The line will reach as is. I'll just disconnect it from the tub and pull it back , wire , conduit, and all. I would just be adding out lets. (?) and the wire between them. (???)
I am running a 1000 W HPS and 600 W MH so I thought the 240 V might be the way to go? The 110 room circuit is shared buy another room, Thought this may be to much load for it?
I am planning on using some of the 110 for smaller things like fans and such.
Thanks again
I am running a 1000 W HPS and 600 W MH so I thought the 240 V might be the way to go? The 110 room circuit is shared buy another room, Thought this may be to much load for it?
I am planning on using some of the 110 for smaller things like fans and such.
Thanks again
I just wired up a brand new ballast 1000w. I went by the diagram on the ballast but the bulb wont fire up. Ive double checked everything. the ballast is humming the bulb and cord are brand new.
The only thing I can suspect is the plug in for the 120 on the old ballast case was plugged into 240 at the wall and it blew it. Could the receptacle on the ballast case have been fried?
I plugged in the old ignitor and the bulb came on for 1 second then went off?
Any ideas?
The only thing I can suspect is the plug in for the 120 on the old ballast case was plugged into 240 at the wall and it blew it. Could the receptacle on the ballast case have been fried?
I plugged in the old ignitor and the bulb came on for 1 second then went off?
Any ideas?
4maggio
Well-Known Member
High B4time.. you are correct when I think you're saying that magnetic ballasts are old school... digital is the new type ballast....
BUT!! I've sent back 2 digital ballasts after 3 months each (1 Lumatec 400w hps & 1 Gallaxy 400wHPS/MH).. sure they fix/replace them but who has confidence with a ballast that was fixed (the Lumatec would flicker but not go completly out)?
Old school magnetic ballasts run, run, run... they too are now available in HPS/MH switchable. I still have a 400w MH ballast that I bought in 1992 and although I do not use it as much as the others, it still operates perfectly..
Gimme the mag type... I replace bulbs every 6 months anyway.
Just my 2c.
