How To Make Your Own Feminized Marijuana Seeds - Mini Guide

Hi Guys,

Here's a mini guide about marijuana seed pollination and how to make your own feminized marijuana seeds. Please read my other Rollitup mini guide about marijuana plant problems.

Grtz,

Robert


Marijuana plants that turn up female are obviously prized possessions. But, the fact that we have to use the phrase “turn up” tells you a lot about the difficulty of achieving female plants. Most standard marijuana seeds that you get from a seed bank or a dealer are a veritable grab bag of possibilities. You may end up with a crop that is split 50/50 between males and females. You may end up with a majority female or male crop. You also might get a bunch of hermaphroditic plants. Of course, there are a few ways to increase your chances of getting female marijuana plants. By feminizing seeds via the use of colloidal silver or rodelization, you can increase the likelihood of a female-majority crop.

But, before we get too far ahead of ourselves, let’s talk about the basics of pollination (or fertilization). It’s common knowledge that unfertilized female marijuana plants produce the highest quality smoke, but if you want to continue growing without purchasing more seeds, then you’re going to need to fertilize some plants.

If you have an existing crop, then it makes sense to pollinate your own marijuana plants. The issue with buying seeds from an overseas or unreliable seed company is that they can often be duds. That is to say, the seedsthemselves won’t germinate or weren’t allowed to mature enough while in the plant. Going through that same trial and error time and time again is not something you want to do. Taking a few plants from each crop and marking them as “breeders” is probably the best course of action. That way you can still get a fair amount of sinsemilla (unfertilized, seedless) plants along with your fertilized plants. Again, producing female plants is often a crap shoot, but will get to non-conventional fertilization options a bit later.


The Basics of marijuana Seed Pollination

In nature, wind is the primary catalyst for fertilization. It carries pollen to the female stigmas and spurs reproduction. Genetics play a large role in the success of this endeavor. Male marijuana plants often mature faster and grow to slightly taller heights. They produce pollen sacs full of pollen that burst open when the females start to reach their sexual peak. Out of the female plants, you’ll start to notice stigmas that are there specifically to catch the pollen that ultimately begins the reproductive process. This is where marijuana seeds come from.

In indoor environments, you don’t really need wind to fertilize the plants (whether accidentally or on purpose). Fertilization is going to happen if you leave the plants to their own devices. Most growers split up the males and females (or just get rid of the males) when they can determine sex. If you want to pollinate some female plants, then you need at least one male plant to do the trick. Make sure you pick the male plant that has a desirable pedigree or exhibits the best characteristics and then separate it from the rest of the females. You can either place the other males with it or just get rid of them. It’s up to you.

Once your ideal male has been isolated, you want to force it into flowering with a 12/12 light schedule. The female marijuana plants should remain completely separated and under continuous light. The male plant should not get any of this light during its dark period or else it won’t flower. Pollen will start to form on the male plant once it has flowered. There’s no need to make use of it immediately, mostly because the female plants are ready for it. That’s why you want to save it for later.

Doing this merely requires an envelope and a piece of paper. As soon as the pollen sacs open up, shake the pollen off the flowers and onto the piece of paper. Then put that pollen into an envelope and give it a label. When that’s finished, place the envelope in the freezer so that the pollen remains active.

Female marijuana plants should then be allowed to stay in vegetative growth for however long you’d like. When you start flowering the females, then you can grab the pollen from the freezer. If you want to keep the “bloodlines” pure, then make sure you don’t mix up the pollen with the wrong female plant. For instance, if you have a strong preference for Strain A and you took pollen from a male plant that came from Strain A, then try to make sure that you fertilize female plants that have Strain A genetics.

There’s no question that you’ll lose the potency of sinsemilla plants. Sinsemilla literally means “without seed” in Spanish, and the levels of THC are allowed to flourish when reproduction is absent. Even so, there’s no need to fertilize every single plant. There’s also no need to fertilize every cola on one plant. Just make sure to be very careful with your fertilizing process to limit the pollen to specific areas.

To fertilize only one cola, first segregate the plant from the others to avoid inadvertent cross-pollination. Then, put the frozen pollen in a small bowl and “paint” the cola gently with a watercolor brush. Once around 4 or 5 days have passed you can transfer this plant to the flowering area or room. Placing it with the other plants will be fine because the pollen acts like an adhesive after that amount of time has passed.

Throughout the course of the flowering stage, marijuana seeds will be produced in the pollinated cola (or colas) and the other females and colas will flower without reproduction. Keeping tabs on the pollinated plants or colas is important so that you can retrieve the seeds at the ideal time. When the seeds gain a sort of brown or tan, mottled color, they are mature enough to be extracted from the plant. Do not harvest them too early (when they’re green) as they may not germinate later on.

At maturity, separate the seeds from the cola with your fingers. Then, put them in a container with a label of some sort (e.g. Strain A, Strain B, etc.) and then into a freezer. The seeds will maintain their vigor and germinate by the time you start growing again.

The advantages to fertilizing your own plants are clear. You save money, you don’t have to deal with the hassle of immature seeds or poor strains, and you don’t really have to “ruin” your entire crop to do so. Most of your garden will still be composed of the highly-potent sinsemilla bud. You can also mix and match certain strains to your heart’s content. If you want to see what a hybrid between Strain A and Strain B will produce, then, by all means, go for it. This is the most basic and cost-effective way to provide yourself with seeds if you already have an existing crop.

Still, conventional fertilization techniques cannot ensure that your future crops will be composed of largely female seeds (and, thus, female plants). You may incur the unfortunate reality of a crop that’s almost exclusively male plants. So, it makes sense that feminization methods have started to take over the marijuana growing world.


Defining Feminization for marijuana seeds

If the plant is fertilized and is allowed to reproduce without any external manipulation, then the sexual characteristics of the resultant seeds are often unalterable and imperceptible. With traditional fertilization techniques, you can never really tell what you’re going to get. Obviously, having a crop composed largely of females is ideal in most circumstances.

Because the THC that the female plant produces is highly-valued, many marijuana growers have started turning to seed feminization techniques. This is effectively a way to ensure that you’ll get a batch of seeds that produce a majority of female plants. Many seed companies will tell you that you’re getting feminized seeds, but you really have to buy from a trustworthy source to make sure you’re getting what you’re paying for. Seed companies that are a little bit suspect might sell you a batch full of male and hermaphroditic seeds.

As mentioned earlier, the two major methods for seed feminization are rodelization and colloidal silver. There are benefits and drawbacks to both techniques, but, if you can perform them successfully, then you’ll end up with a bevy of female marijuana seeds and plants.

The basis behind rodelization is essentially toying with the biological functions of female marijuana plants. If a female plant is nearing the end of the flowering period (and, thus, its life) without being fertilized, it will start to feel stress and potentially produce pollen sacs on its own. This is sort of a last-ditch, evolutionary effort by the plant to achieve fertilization and continue to the species. The reason why this option often creates female seeds is that all of the characteristics of the resultant seeds came from the same female plant (making males highly unlikely).

The female cannabis plant’s strange ability to fertilize itself is really the basic idea behind rodelization (and many other feminization techniques). When you consider that the egg and the pollen both come from the same genetically female plant, then female marijuana seeds are a natural outcome. The idea behind this is simple enough, but actually performing rodelization can be harder than you might imagine.

Colloidal silver works a lot like rodelization except that you actually have more input. Small amounts of colloidal (or pure) silver are placed into distilled water and the desired plants are sprayed with this solution during flowering. The chemicals in colloidal silver manipulate the plant’s genetic structure so that it produces pollen sacs.

Obviously, both of these options can provide you with a bevy of potent females on your next go-around, and you also don’t have to sacrifice sinsemilla plants. You only have to focus on one or two plants to get the feminizedseeds you want for the next growing season. If you perfect either of these methods, you can expect to have exceptional smoke long into the future.


Using Rodelization to Feminize Marijuana Seeds

Rodelization is both easy and natural, but it’s not always the best choice when you’re trying to feminize marijuana seeds. The idea is very simple: let select female plants stay in the flowering period after the standard harvest time has passed. The plants will feel stress to reproduce, and this will manifest itself in pollen sacs growing on the plant. Obviously, you can take the pollen from the sacs and administer it to the stigmas. For best results, you may want to take a single female plant and place it into flowering ahead of all the others. If the plant produces pollen sacs, you can save it in an envelope and place it in the freezer using the instructions above.

Unfortunately, rodelization isn’t always dependable. A lot of things have to go right, and there’s still a possibility that you won’t get what you’re looking for. Creating pollen sacs isn’t always the response that every marijuana plant will have to this kind of stress. Trying to perform this technique with all of your plants will leave you with a lot of degraded potency and/or an inability to fertilize the plants at all.

Some marijuana strains maintain genetic predispositions for rodelization. So, leaving them alive throughout harvest time will almost always produce pollen sacs in special varieties. In this case, it is possible for the pollen to still maintain strong male characteristics. That is to say, if a female plant is predisposed to creating pollen sacs, then there’s a strong likelihood that it simply has more pronounced male genetics. The seeds produced from this pollen may just be your standard fare with an equal number of males and females.

Organic growers will be particularly attracted to this method because it doesn’t ask you to use any chemicals. It can act as a nice science project in which you test the ability of your female plants to produce pollen sacs. And, of course, it still gives you a solid chance of producing feminized marijuana seeds.


Producing Feminized seeds with Colloidal Silver

The colloidal silver method is much harder and more labor-intensive effort than rodelization, but it can be much more effective. There’s a lot that goes into making an adequate colloidal silver solution. You can’t simply sprinkle some silver flakes into a glass of water and then go to town. You’re going to need several ingredients to get started on this endeavor:

· Distilled water
· Pure silver (wire, coin, etc.)
· 9-volt battery (and battery connector)
· Alligator clips
· Soldering iron


Solutions of colloidal silver can be found commercially, but they are often extremely expensive and only used for drinking at considerably lower concentrations than would be applicable for marijuana spritzing. So, this option is off the books, which means you’re going to have to find some pure silver. Coin shops or the mint can provide you with silver coins that come in at varying costs. It really only takes a couple of pieces of half-ounce silver to get the job done. Silver wires are also applicable, but many people just stick with coins. The silver needs to be .9999 or .999 because it won’t work otherwise.

When you’ve acquired silver, you’ll need to take the battery connectors and attach them to the battery itself. One black wire and one red wire extend from the connector. If you decide to hold this all together with alligator clips, then you will need to solder the wires so that the electrical current will stay intact. You’ll either need to buy a soldering iron or ask for assistance at a hardware store. If you’d rather not mess with soldering irons and alligator clips, then you can punch a hole in the coins and then slide the battery connector wires through that hole. Still, the idea here is to conduct electricity as best you can and soldering alligator clips to the wires is the best way to get that done.

In any event, the wires from the battery must be touching the silver coins. The coins themselves must then be suspended in a glass of distilled water. The alligator clips and wires should not touch the water. Getting distilled water is of the utmost importance so that no impurities will be contained within. The electrical current created by the battery essentially produces miniature silver ions that will appear in the distilled water. Distilled water is deionized, which ensures that the silver particles will not attempt to bond with something else.

This creation should remain in place for at least 7 hours. The electrically-charged pieces of silver will continue flaking off ions throughout that period of time. The longer it keeps doing this, the more colloidal silver particles will be found in the distilled water. If you let the concoction work for too long, you might end up with particles that are far too large. Also, you may not notice anything occurring at first, but a thin residue will start to form atop the distilled water as time passes.

When the solution is made, you can immediately start using it. Designate a single female plant to get the spray, place it into the flowering stage, and immediately start misting it once every day. It generally takes about 10 days to two weeks to get the pollen sacs to show up on the plant. Retrieving the pollen and fertilizing the plants is the same as the methods outlined above.

We should also point out that the consumption of high concentrations of colloidal silver is detrimental to your health. Small concentrations are often consumed as physical enhancers, but the amount of colloidal silver in this solution is unsafe for drinking (and, later, smoking). You should also get rid of any part of the marijuana plant that the colloidal silver solution touches. If that means scrapping an entire plant, then so be it. Some growers just select a few spots on the plant to spray the solution so that they can remove those spots later. Still, if you’re not careful, the spray can get on other parts of the plant and cause health problems with the smoke later on.

The pollen produced from the colloidal silver solution is completely safe to use because it hasn’t actually come into contact with the solution. The best part about the colloidal silver method is its consistency in producing feminized seeds. Unlike rodelization, you’re actually spurring on the creation of pollen sacs at a chemical level.


A Few More Choices

There are definitive benefits to both of these options, but sometimes growers don’t have the means to try them. Rodelization takes time and the colloidal silver method requires money. These are investments that you might not be willing or able to make. In that case, cloning certain female plants can be inexpensive and easy to perform. It’s certainly not a seed feminization method by any stretch of the imagination, but it can reliably guarantee some female marijuana plants and buds. Cloning allows you to take out the middle man of reproduction. You can just choose your favorite plant or strain and then create an exact genetic copy of that strain. The smoke will continue to be exceptional and familiar, and you don’t have to worry about guesswork or huge expenses.

Still, marijuana seed feminization is important for a number of different growers. For example, hybridizing the DNA for the resultant generation is only possible through selective fertilization. That is to say, creating a mix requires genetic material from two different strains of marijuana. Cloning only gives you the option of recreating a particular strain with a particular DNA, which can get old or even ineffective after a while.

Related Rollitup articles;

Make your own colloidal silver
Producing feminized seeds using colloidal silver
Photo report - making feminized seeds (must read!)

Thanks for reading and please share your experiences making feminized marijuana seeds.

Grtz,

Robert
www.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com
 
Hi,

Thanks for great comments guys :) I've never heard of Tiresias Mist but it claims to produce feminized seeds. It may simply be colloidal silver but i cannot find any good documentation. Ordered a bottle today from http://www.drtsremedies.net/ so i have to get back to you on that one...

Robert
 

bird dog

Well-Known Member
:leaf::leaf: Excellent reading info for us robert...thanks so much for making us smarter. I was wondering, I have pollen collected from a bubblegum male that I had to move out of the tent when I found out it was a male. Can I take this pollen and paint it onto the selected female cross? I would brush it onto the pistols, branches, etc. Peace...
 

B.B.V.C.

Well-Known Member
Hey Robert thanks for both of the articles! I have a question about making feminized seeds. A friend of mine grew a bunch of plants and one near the door was subject to light leaks so it ended up herming on him. He pulled it out, chopped it down and fixed the leak but the damage was already done and the rest of the plants were seeded. I have done some research and I know that an unstable plant that hermies and seeds other plants will probably make more hermie plants but I'm curious that if maybe because these were outside influences that caused the hermie maybe they ended up becoming feminized seeds?

I plan to do a test grow on some of them when I have time but I was just wondering what your opinion is to how they will turn out, thanks a lot
 

EZmooover

Active Member
Hi,

Thanks for great comments guys :) I've never heard of Tiresias Mist but it claims to produce feminized seeds. It may simply be colloidal silver but i cannot find any good documentation. Ordered a bottle today from http://www.drtsremedies.net/ so i have to get back to you on that one...

Robert
Thanks. I'm looking forward to your opinion. I did read some internet "noise" that TM might just be a more concentrated form of a typical ~30 ppm CS solution.
 

justinschuster

New Member
Have you ever made feminized seeds using light pollution? During the 3rd week of flowering disrupt the dark period with light for an hour each day(nightime for plants). Do this for 3-4 days and the plant will stress. When the plant realizes that it will soon die, it waits to be pollinated by a male. If no males are present then one or a few females will produce a small amount of female pollen. Female pollen is not as potent as male pollen so you will get maybe ten feminized seeds per plant. This method is preferred because there are no toxic chemicals (collodial silver, giberllic acid, etc.) and you don't have to wait past harvest time like with Rodelization. The best part is that you will have a few female seeds and still be able to enjoy your buds.
Some people would claim that the females will be HERMAPHRODITES and that's why it produces seeds. This is not true so don't be fooled by the salesman of collodial silver. Light pollution cannot cause a female to turn male. In fact only DNA mutations from chemicals like superthrive and other growh hormornes (miracle grow) mutate the DNA or your strain was comprimised.
I have used tis method for ten years and never had one male sprout. I stumbled upon this method by accident due to timer malfuntcion. I also have read about it in high times. Thank you and try it.
If you start with an F1 hybrid and use light pollution to make feminized seeds, you will make an F2 Hybrid capable of having WW(white/white) WR(white/red) or RR(red/red) attributes, often resulting in new strains that were not attainable with male/female breeding. Most F2 hybrids are not stable meaning two seeds from the same plant could produce one tall plant and one short plant. Other than that you will be creating strains that are new and potent. Each time you make new seeds the plant adapts to indoor or outdoor conditions making the next grow more sterile and problem free. If you had powdery mildew the crop that went to seed the new seeds will have an immunity to PM. Also you can customize the DNA to grow better indoors or adapt to cold or hot weather or poor soil quality(poor drainage, sandy, acidic or alkaline PH. And unlike cloning you can start from seed everytime and stop disease and pests before they start. I am very pleased with the results and I would love feedback or questions.
[email protected]
https://www.facebook.com/MedicalMarijaunaPage
 
Great post. I might give this a try down the road. I wanted to mention that I saw a spray for sale at my favorite local grow shop that was meant to cause plants to create seeds. After reading this article, I have a feeling that it must have been a colloidal silver type of spray. If I can figure out what the name of the spray was, I will add it to this forum post. Thanks for the highly informative entry. If I ever try this, I will posty results Here also. Peace!
 
I just realize other people already commented about the same spray. I think they are talking about the same stuff. Anybody know if it is colloidal silver?
 

Scotty Pot Seed

Active Member
I have a batch of colloidal silver brewing now and am wondering what PPM it should be at when it is done. It has only been a few hours and it is at 30 PPM. I think I read somewhere it needs to be like 300 PPM for femming but that seems high. I assume if it is too strong I can add water to thin it out?
 

Trousers

Well-Known Member
Hey Robert thanks for both of the articles! I have a question about making feminized seeds. A friend of mine grew a bunch of plants and one near the door was subject to light leaks so it ended up herming on him. He pulled it out, chopped it down and fixed the leak but the damage was already done and the rest of the plants were seeded. I have done some research and I know that an unstable plant that hermies and seeds other plants will probably make more hermie plants but I'm curious that if maybe because these were outside influences that caused the hermie maybe they ended up becoming feminized seeds?

I plan to do a test grow on some of them when I have time but I was just wondering what your opinion is to how they will turn out, thanks a lot
If the plant that produced male flowers was really just a stressed female, then you have feminized seeds.
The resulting plants will be just as likely as the parents to produce male flowers.
 
Top