Worm repellant advice

Weedman1108

Member
I'll try the peppermint with water for now, probably just gonna get some bt and spray in the budding stage for preventative maintenance when the time comes. And as far as I know there's no pest problem as of right now but the plants are by some tall grass, should I spray the grass for pests?
 

thegreensurfer

Well-Known Member
I'll try the peppermint with water for now, probably just gonna get some bt and spray in the budding stage for preventative maintenance when the time comes. And as far as I know there's no pest problem as of right now but the plants are by some tall grass, should I spray the grass for pests?
Contain the grass if you can, either by removing or mowing.....tall grass can support more bad guys.
 

Just fooling

Well-Known Member
Yea don't let any other plants touch yours. Always hack around them, pull weeds whatever it takes. Having surrounding vegetation cuts down on early and late sun as well as harboring the bugs.
If you've got copper wire around the bottoms it won't matter if other plants are touching slugs will make the trip over.
 

fandango

Well-Known Member
bud worms and open conditions(as in you need to screen off the gh...worms on buds,well do not try to spry them,,you should have dropped the bug screen long ago
 

Weedman1108

Member
Alright so here's my plants as of right now (sorry about the quality of the pictures) but it seems like something is starting to eat holes in all my leafs, should I break out the spray now?
 

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black jesus

Well-Known Member
I've been finding eggs all over my buds. I'm getting bt from home Depot today. Lowe don't sell it at all. But first I'm going to wear gloves and try to smash as many eggs as possible...I'm not going to sit around and wait for them to hatch...
 

Weedman1108

Member
I've decided to just spray them, based on their size what is a good amount to spray, like do i want to cover the whole plant lightly or drench it with spray?
 

TWS

Well-Known Member
Just chop the damn things down. You are never gonna make it ro the end if you can't figure this shit out on a 8 inch plant .
 

Weedman1108

Member
Well considering the book it came with doesn't say shit about the amount to put on and this is my first time growing what variables do I have to figure this shit out on my own exactly? I wanna get this right so I come on here to ask people with actual experience unlike myself, if you don't wanna help me out you don't have to but don't come on here with that negative bs
 

backtracker

Well-Known Member
I read someone post no caterpillar is going to hurt your plants in veg. Not wanting to argue, we have a caterpillar that bores into the thick stem and eats its way up. I get them about mid June- end June. The will kill quick. Cutworms,army worms? I'm not sure offhand what they are called. Some years are better than others.

This is the northeast U.S. where I'm at. In the fall I don't get any caterpillars like people on west coast. Not everyone has the same environment.
That sounds like a borer instead of a caterpillar you can wrap the stalk with nylon screen where they usually bore in. research borers and there may be a natural predator or bio insecticide that would take care of them.
 

Just fooling

Well-Known Member
I have tried to research some. I took them to locals with better smarts than I. Guys who have comercial greenhouses. I was told army worms by one guy and cutworms by another. I spray with safer brand bt now. I will do so usually twice in June.

Its been a few years since I have had an issue with them.
 

thegreensurfer

Well-Known Member
The holes on the leaves look like grasshopper damage that I used to get. Amazax is effective for anything that eats leaves. You definitely don't have thrips so you can rule that out.
If you can afford the $30 for azamax that'll keep your girls bug free. They won't eat the leaves with that stuff applied. If your area is a problem because of pests try doing the netting....like a simple wood or pvc frame with a bug net wrap. That'll save you a lot of problems and headaches this summer.
 
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ky man

Well-Known Member
I've been finding eggs all over my buds. I'm getting bt from home Depot today. Lowe don't sell it at all. But first I'm going to wear gloves and try to smash as many eggs as possible...I'm not going to sit around and wait for them to hatch...
I would spray them suckers fast also.ky
 

ky man

Well-Known Member
Omri is not certified to judge what came from genetically modified stock. It does not degrade quickly and Im sorry if you find this a convenient product. It is deadly even after dried. It is deadly for many species. If you have real research, as you seem to wish me to believe you have read, please provide it. I am a biochemist and more then certified to speak on what I speak. I am also very well schooled in the endocrine system. I would be happy to discuss this further though my position is it is not safe at all.
www.gorillagrow.org

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his will kill microbes and fungi which protect the plant, give true quality and much much more. Your creating work for your self. Yes the earwigs are likely out of control as you decimated your nematodes. Do you know what they are and why they are important?
What is the best to spray for mites and catipillers and things like that?thank you for any info you can give me..ky
 

ky man

Well-Known Member
Your biology credentials are oriented to this field more than my own. I respect your position, just quite a bit of information conflicts with that position.

I go here for information usually:
http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/spinosadgen.html

https://www.federalregister.gov/articles/2015/12/28/2015-32168/spinosad-pesticide-tolerances#h-14

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spinosad

However, I noticed this time around linking wickpedia that they have added severe toxicology for bees. We knew about during spraying but apparently it is the residue also. They say to rinse a day or two after application now. I was not aware of the new information.

I will say this. I tried using nothing but soaps and oils when we first started on the property. Our entire first crops went in the bin. Since then I have used spinosad lightly and BT later in the season for worms to great success. I still have a lot of life on the property and the soil makes mycelium web on top quite often. Lots of worms in the soil.

My entire area has had problems with earwigs not just myself... LOL


Side note. DE is deadly to bees also! It is also a non-discriminate insecticide but has no efficacy once wet.
Soaps and oils never did work for me and I will spray whater to keep from loosing my hard earned crop for its a lot of dam work to just give away to bugs when you can kill them..ky..I like your thinking
 

ky man

Well-Known Member
I think some have an issue poisoning the plant with phosphorus and infusing it into the tissue where it produces its caustic effect that some growers desire for profit reason despite modern knowledge or ethical issues. This amazingly limits the mycorrhizae covering that would otherwise protect the plants. I pulled some caterpillars off the plant though have no chewing at present time. Then again I grow for quality which only comes with a diverse ecosystem. If it kills bees and such as well it is killing much of the balance that would lead way to quality or worry free growing. The industry is fuelled by money. I have had fertiliser products and am familiar with the mentality of the ones who produce the most "organic" fertiliser in this country. Ray Olsen owns the company. Like I said I would be pissed smoking that. If I knew it was on it I would never touch it. All sorts of folks in this world and with them all different standards. May I ask if any of you work at a hydro shop or get your advice from one? No offence they told you phosphorus was great too I imagine
My plants do need phosphorus to grow to become there best when budding.What do you use if not phosphorus?I also use lot of chicken poop and rabbit poop and bat poop but phosphorus in ferts also helps lots jmo..ky
 
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