Will she make it?

So it's day 19. I changed her pot on day 17 and she looks battered. On day 18, she looked sad and twisted, I thought that was the end but now It looks
like nute burn and the soil must of been to hot.

I have flushed the soil

Do you think she will make it.

She's an autoflower. Poor research before hand and I know not to repot now and make sure they stay in there final pot start to finish.

It is definitely nuteburn. Flushing the soil would not do much as u cant flush all the nutes out of the pot. Why don't u use plain soil and add nutes with water when needed instead of adding with soil? Id probably transplant if i were you because at this particular moment plant is trying to break roots into the new soil and getting burned. But as far this is only opinion.

Thanks for the reply, if there is 0% improvement by Friday, I shall move her again

skanda said:

Thanks for the reply, if there is 0% improvement by Friday, I shall move her again

Click to expand...

when you transplant a auto they dont like it at all and will go into shock. If i was me i would make sure its in the pot your going to finish in and give it a good flush and wait. And flushing will get the nutes out of the soil if its done right.

Personally I would bin this plant and start over, and I explain why.
Auto-flowering strains have a timer in their genetic, and no matter what, it will come to full maturity by the end of it's grow cycle, the grow cycle of auto strains is usually 2 months.
You already lost 19 days, of it's life cycle, and you plant has been through a multiple stresses, and it's a known fact that every stress reduces a potency of psycho-active chemical composition, as well as it makes a big impact on finale yield. If you do everything right, your plant will survive but in the best case you will get about 10 grams of very low quality cannabis.
If you want a good quality cannabis, you need to buy next items.

1.Plants Magic soil

2.Good quality perlite

3. Plant magic nutrients
a) OldTimer Bloom
b) bio-silicon
c) catalyst
d) root stimulant
e) magne-cal (depend on your tap water PPM)
d) bloom boost

4. 10 litres Air-pot
5. TDS meter (reading PPM and temperature of water and )
6. Air pump and air stones (same as used for Airoponic system)
7. Soil cubes (personally recommend Root Riot )
heat mat

Tips:
1. Soil to perlite ratio 8 to 2 (10 litre pot = 8 litre soil and 2 litre perlite)
2. Check your tap water PPM, if it's below 150, than you need to add magne-cal until PPM reading will be at 150. (Do this every single watering)
3. Until you see the firs sign of flowering, use only root stimulant, catalyst, bio-silicon at half recommended amount and magne-cal as described above,
once your plant start flowering, stop giving root stimulant and add oldtimer bloom to your nutrient solution at minimum recommended dose, week 2 of flowering, start adding bloom boost at half dose.
4. Cold tap water is usually 10-14 degrees Celsius. Once you mix some nutrients in water, always oxygenate it for an hour with you air pump before feeding it to your plants. Reason for that is, water too cold, and there can be a toxic concentration of chlorine, This process will buffer the water decrease chlorine and increase dissolved oxygen concentration.
5. Do not mess around with pH, if your nutrient solution is pH 8-9 it's normal, let soil do this job. Do not bother to check the run-off, it won't give you the correct reading of you soil pH.
6. To plant a seed, just soak soil cube in water with root stimulant (recommended dose) and oxygenate it, in the water for an hour. Than place it on your heat mat and cover it with visible through bag (shape it into dome). 3 days later it will germinate.

JohnySmith1 said:

Personally I would bin this plant and start over, and I explain why.
Auto-flowering strains have a timer in their genetic, and no matter what, it will come to full maturity by the end of it's grow cycle, the grow cycle of auto strains is usually 2 months.
You already lost 19 days, of it's life cycle, and you plant has been through a multiple stresses, and it's a known fact that every stress reduces a potency of psycho-active chemical composition, as well as it makes a big impact on finale yield. If you do everything right, your plant will survive but in the best case you will get about 10 grams of very low quality cannabis.
If you want a good quality cannabis, you need to buy next items.

1.Plants Magic soil

2.Good quality perlite

3. Plant magic nutrients
a) OldTimer Bloom
b) bio-silicon
c) catalyst
d) root stimulant
e) magne-cal (depend on your tap water PPM)
d) bloom boost

4. 10 litres Air-pot
5. TDS meter (reading PPM and temperature of water and )
6. Air pump and air stones (same as used for Airoponic system)
7. Soil cubes (personally recommend Root Riot )
heat mat

Tips:
1. Soil to perlite ratio 8 to 2 (10 litre pot = 8 litre soil and 2 litre perlite)
2. Check your tap water PPM, if it's below 150, than you need to add magne-cal until PPM reading will be at 150. (Do this every single watering)
3. Until you see the firs sign of flowering, use only root stimulant, catalyst, bio-silicon at half recommended amount and magne-cal as described above,
once your plant start flowering, stop giving root stimulant and add oldtimer bloom to your nutrient solution at minimum recommended dose, week 2 of flowering, start adding bloom boost at half dose.
4. Cold tap water is usually 10-14 degrees Celsius. Once you mix some nutrients in water, always oxygenate it for an hour with you air pump before feeding it to your plants. Reason for that is, water too cold, and there can be a toxic concentration of chlorine, This process will buffer the water decrease chlorine and increase dissolved oxygen concentration.
5. Do not mess around with pH, if your nutrient solution is pH 8-9 it's normal, let soil do this job. Do not bother to check the run-off, it won't give you the correct reading of you soil pH.
6. To plant a seed, just soak soil cube in water with root stimulant (recommended dose) and oxygenate it, in the water for an hour. Than place it on your heat mat and cover it with visible through bag (shape it into dome). 3 days later it will germinate.

Click to expand...

Hi Johnny

Thanks for taking the time to help much appreciated. I know what you mean about binning her, I might keep her as an experiment and learn.

I like your break down, it's like a formula you have locked down and something I understand without all the riff raff.. I'm going to take your advice and apply it, I a month or two i got a good feeling i'll be thanking you.

skanda said:

So it's day 19. I changed her pot on day 17 and she looks battered. On day 18, she looked sad and twisted, I thought that was the end but now It looks
like nute burn and the soil must of been to hot.

I have flushed the soil

Do you think she will make it.

She's an autoflower. Poor research before hand and I know not to repot now and make sure they stay in there final pot start to finish.


View attachment 3396179 View attachment 3396180 View attachment 3396181

Click to expand...

I'm not seeing any pistils yet. Its definately gonna be stunted and since you transplanted the roots may inhibit further plant growth for a second. I wouldn't panic. Don't flush anymore. Just plain water when it gets dry, let it grow and see what it does. Give it two more weeks and look for it to take off after the roots get going good. If you don't see an inch a day it probably won't produce very well. It obviously hasn't had that growth spurt yet I've seen when autos start to flower.

Give it a chance to see what it does on its on. Any further transplant, flush or whatever is just gonna compound the problems.

skanda said:

Hi Johnny

Thanks for taking the time to help much appreciated. I know what you mean about binning her, I might keep her as an experiment and learn.

I like your break down, it's like a formula you have locked down and something I understand without all the riff raff.. I'm going to take your advice and apply it, I a month or two i got a good feeling i'll be thanking you.

Click to expand...

You very welcome

GrowUrOwnDank said:

I'm not seeing any pistils yet. Its definately gonna be stunted and since you transplanted the roots may inhibit further plant growth for a second. I wouldn't panic. Don't flush anymore. Just plain water when it gets dry, let it grow and see what it does. Give it two more weeks and look for it to take off after the roots get going good. If you don't see an inch a day it probably won't produce very well. It obviously hasn't had that growth spurt yet I've seen when autos start to flower.

Give it a chance to see what it does on its on. Any further transplant, flush or whatever is just gonna compound the problems.

Click to expand...

It's growing for sure, last night I could see new leaves pushing through but definitely has not grown an inch. The new leaves looked bright green but I'll check on it tonight and see how she's getting on. I'll just let her be, see if she can recover.

It's like she's in the trauma unit of a hospital. I've done all that I could to try and save her. (even though it was my fault

SweetHayz said:

It is definitely nuteburn. Flushing the soil would not do much as u cant flush all the nutes out of the pot. Why don't u use plain soil and add nutes with water when needed instead of adding with soil? Id probably transplant if i were you because at this particular moment plant is trying to break roots into the new soil and getting burned. But as far this is only opinion.

Click to expand...

It was just transplanted and a sketchy one at that by the sound of it.

skanda said:

Thanks for the reply, if there is 0% improvement by Friday, I shall move her again

Click to expand...

dont move it. I wouldnt, a small pot and a faster wet dry cycle will grow a plant faster than overwatering a tiny girl. To me when i see a small stunted plant the first thing that come to mind is overwatering or not enough light. Either of these could make things take longer but usually its over watering. It makes nutrient uptake almost impossible because the plant is drowning and the roots have no oxygen. If this sounds close then up the light, up the heat, and water less often. Good idea with the flush on that nute burn.

JohnySmith1 said:

Personally I would bin this plant and start over, and I explain why.
Auto-flowering strains have a timer in their genetic, and no matter what, it will come to full maturity by the end of it's grow cycle, the grow cycle of auto strains is usually 2 months.
You already lost 19 days, of it's life cycle, and you plant has been through a multiple stresses, and it's a known fact that every stress reduces a potency of psycho-active chemical composition, as well as it makes a big impact on finale yield. If you do everything right, your plant will survive but in the best case you will get about 10 grams of very low quality cannabis.
If you want a good quality cannabis, you need to buy next items.

1.Plants Magic soil

2.Good quality perlite

3. Plant magic nutrients
a) OldTimer Bloom
b) bio-silicon
c) catalyst
d) root stimulant
e) magne-cal (depend on your tap water PPM)
d) bloom boost

4. 10 litres Air-pot
5. TDS meter (reading PPM and temperature of water and )
6. Air pump and air stones (same as used for Airoponic system)
7. Soil cubes (personally recommend Root Riot )
heat mat

Tips:
1. Soil to perlite ratio 8 to 2 (10 litre pot = 8 litre soil and 2 litre perlite)
2. Check your tap water PPM, if it's below 150, than you need to add magne-cal until PPM reading will be at 150. (Do this every single watering)
3. Until you see the firs sign of flowering, use only root stimulant, catalyst, bio-silicon at half recommended amount and magne-cal as described above,
once your plant start flowering, stop giving root stimulant and add oldtimer bloom to your nutrient solution at minimum recommended dose, week 2 of flowering, start adding bloom boost at half dose.
4. Cold tap water is usually 10-14 degrees Celsius. Once you mix some nutrients in water, always oxygenate it for an hour with you air pump before feeding it to your plants. Reason for that is, water too cold, and there can be a toxic concentration of chlorine, This process will buffer the water decrease chlorine and increase dissolved oxygen concentration.
5. Do not mess around with pH, if your nutrient solution is pH 8-9 it's normal, let soil do this job. Do not bother to check the run-off, it won't give you the correct reading of you soil pH.
6. To plant a seed, just soak soil cube in water with root stimulant (recommended dose) and oxygenate it, in the water for an hour. Than place it on your heat mat and cover it with visible through bag (shape it into dome). 3 days later it will germinate.

Click to expand...

this post sounds all kinds of wrong, starting with scrap the plant. Its alive, start another if needed but keep the plant growing for education if nothing else. All the list of things to get, a ppm meter, base nutes, calmag, and a three gallon pot is all i agree with. Catalyst? Root stimulant? Five other things? No. You sound like you have stock in the company. Grower talent grows winning buds, not pouring something new in everyday. Ill say you have some valid points but your list is going to cost more than youd make off a plant. Stick to the basics and learn to grow before you start experimenting with the kitchen sink of additives reccomended here.

skanda said:

It's growing for sure, last night I could see new leaves pushing through but definitely has not grown an inch. The new leaves looked bright green but I'll check on it tonight and see how she's getting on. I'll just let her be, see if she can recover.

It's like she's in the trauma unit of a hospital. I've done all that I could to try and save her. (even though it was my fault

Click to expand...

good flush, now all you can do is tune up your environment. Optimize watering, lighting, temps, and read up on feeding and when to do it and id bet she takes off. Ive never seen a plant grow so slow without a ton of grower error involved. Educated growers dont have problems that new growers have because theyve seen what works and what doesnt. Dont throw the kitchen sink at it, nust learn the basics of watering, feeding, and lighting, and youll be golden. Good luck.

skanda said:

It's growing for sure, last night I could see new leaves pushing through but definitely has not grown an inch. The new leaves looked bright green but I'll check on it tonight and see how she's getting on. I'll just let her be, see if she can recover.

It's like she's in the trauma unit of a hospital. I've done all that I could to try and save her. (even though it was my fault

Click to expand...

I'm only guessing, but now that you've transplanted the plant will begin rooting before it decides to pop. Once the roots get done doing there thing, then watch for it to pop. Yields may be affected. You never know with autos. Some have strong genetic traits and can do well. Regardless, you should get something out of it.

Alienwidow said:

.this post sounds all kinds of wrong, starting with scrap the plant. Its alive, start another if needed but keep the plant growing for education if nothing else. All the list of things to get, a ppm meter, base nutes, calmag, and a three gallon pot is all i agree with. Catalyst? Root stimulant? Five other things? No. You sound like you have stock in the company. Grower talent grows winning buds, not pouring something new in everyday. Ill say you have some valid points but your list is going to cost more than youd make off a plant. Stick to the basics and learn to grow before you start experimenting with the kitchen sink of additives reccomended here.

Click to expand...

Catalyst is very important, first of, it provides some micro nutrients as well as it noticeably speed up the plant growth, silicon makes you stems stronger, so they will not break under their own weight, root stimulant says for itself, it stimulates root growth. If you just use base NPK nutrients and cal mag, it will work but finale results will be reduced in quality. I have grown with and without additives, and I have seen an obvious difference. Have you? You saying all I said was wrong, I am afraid I can not agree with you, because flowing this method I always had 100% success
You sound like some one who grows for profit, when my advice is for someone who grow for a personal use.

JohnySmith1 said:

Catalyst is very important, first of, it provides some micro nutrients as well as it noticeably speed up the plant growth, silicon makes you stems stronger, so they will not break under their own weight, root stimulant says for itself, it stimulates root growth. If you just use base NPK nutrients and cal mag, it will work but finale results will be reduced in quality. I have grown with and without additives, and I have seen an obvious difference. Have you? You saying all I said was wrong, I am afraid I can not agree with you, because flowing this method I always had 100% success
You sound like some one who grows for profit, when my advice is for someone who grow for a personal use.

Click to expand...

No doubt that method works for you, otherwise why would you go to all that trouble? Telling OP to chop was just bad advice. Done right his herb plant can recover and potentially, assuming his auto genes are good he can still get a decent harvest of an O or more which AINT bad for some auto strains. I had a Dinafem CJ, I screwed up early and stunted the heck out of it. It was in a hempy bucket and I managed to turn it around and get an O. P.S. It could have just been a bad seed. Stunted a Dinafem Amnesia photo once too, or maybe it was bad genes and the seedling was retarded. Growing like 2 leaves on its first true set of leaves. I let it go and although it took a month or so to turn it around, it turned into a beautiful plant and produced wonderful dank. The CJ is the best I ever had smoke wise. Not as easy to grow than others in my experience. It was a freebie, so again. Could have been a bad seed. But, I made it work out.

Anyway, I feel telling OP to chop was bad advice. Your very well written description of your method is fine for you, but in my opinion way too complicated for an auto. One of my best autos EVER was grown in Miracle Grow soil using MG Ferts just like you would use for your flower or veg garden.

Bottom line. There is way too much complicated information on the RIU from newbs who make out like growing weed is all rocket science. It's just growing weed. You can grow autos on the cheap, and I feel the reason most newbs fuck it up is because they are reading way too much oberly complicated crap on the RIU.

KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID is my growing method. Hempy buckets, Hardy auto seeds from like Dinafem and Sweet Seeds and simple Lucas Formula(now). Used to I used simple 3 part GH Flora series. I have never lost a plant yet. Even when I tried and succeeded in different soils and DWC with a GH powergrower. Dank was achieved.

Bottom line. Most of the growers here are not going to win any kind of Cup competitions. But, we can supply ourselves with our own serious dank using simple, tried and true methods of GROWING WEEDS!

No offense dude. I just feel you are kinda new and really believe and get good results. You just seem to go about it the hard way.

JohnySmith1 said:

Catalyst is very important, first of, it provides some micro nutrients as well as it noticeably speed up the plant growth, silicon makes you stems stronger, so they will not break under their own weight, root stimulant says for itself, it stimulates root growth. If you just use base NPK nutrients and cal mag, it will work but finale results will be reduced in quality. I have grown with and without additives, and I have seen an obvious difference. Have you? You saying all I said was wrong, I am afraid I can not agree with you, because flowing this method I always had 100% success
You sound like some one who grows for profit, when my advice is for someone who grow for a personal use.

Click to expand...

Dont forget silicas supposed shelf life improving capabilities, and pest resistance from strengthened cell walls, blah blah blah. Like i havent heard it all before. Do you realize your adding something for every biological function the plant does naturally? The best thing to add to a good grow in my opinion is good genetics, and a grower that knows what hes doing. Half that crap you dump in there you can leave out because it doesnt help and the other half is costing more than its helping. This is a weed plant and you guys that think your building a rocket crack me up, nasa spends less getting a man to the moon than you guys spend growing one plant that id grow better with 12 dollars plus soil and lights. When you realize you dont need all that crap to grow a good plant youll be much better off and have more consistant results.

Alienwidow said:

Dont forget silicas supposed shelf life improving capabilities, and pest resistance from strengthened cell walls, blah blah blah. Like i havent heard it all before. Do you realize your adding something for every biological function the plant does naturally? The best thing to add to a good grow in my opinion is good genetics, and a grower that knows what hes doing. Half that crap you dump in there you can leave out because it doesnt help and the other half is costing more than its helping. This is a weed plant and you guys that think your building a rocket crack me up, nasa spends less getting a man to the moon than you guys spend growing one plant that id grow better with 12 dollars plus soil and lights. When you realize you dont need all that crap to grow a good plant youll be much better off and have more consistant results.

Click to expand...

I really don't want to explain chemistry of cannabinoids and how important is the ratio of THC and other psychoactive compounds. But if you will be growing your plants with the only NPK + Ca Mg, your plants will experience stress through it's grow cycle, and you will end up having big buds with a lot of negative effects, such as paranoia, anxiety, etc. I am sure you know this, but THC is 1 out of 84 known cannabinoids. My point is, if you have big crystaly buds, sticky and smelly, it does not mean this is a good quality cannabis, it only means this buds are high in THC.
What I am saying is, if you want to smoke something, that makes you lazy, paranoid, anxious and finally depressed, grow the simple way this big 20-25% THC buds. Personally I prefer to experience positive effects such as, creativity, feeling of motivation to do something, being happy and energetic etc. To grow cannabis with positive effects, you need to supply its with every single element it needs, apart of NPK and Cal Mag, it also needs boron, copper, manganese, zinc, chlorine, molybdenum and many more. And each of this elements must be in particular ratio, so please dont say, growing cannabis is easy. You only find it easy because, some one prepared nutrient concentrate for you and gave you an instruction on how to use it!

JohnySmith1 said:

But if you will be growing your plants with the only NPK + Ca Mg, your plants will experience stress through it's grow cycle, and you will end up having big buds with a lot of negative effects, such as paranoia, anxiety, etc. I am sure you know this, but THC is 1 out of 84 known cannabinoids. My point is, if you have big crystaly buds, sticky and smelly, it does not mean this is a good quality cannabis, it only means this buds are high in THC.
What I am saying is, if you want to smoke something, that makes you lazy, paranoid, anxious and finally depressed, grow the simple way this big 20-25% THC buds. Personally I prefer to experience positive effects such as, creativity, feeling of motivation to do something, being happy and energetic etc. To grow cannabis with positive effects, you need to supply its with every single element it needs, apart of NPK and Cal Mag, it also needs boron, copper, manganese, zinc, chlorine, molybdenum and many more. And each of this elements must be in particular ratio, so please dont say, growing cannabis is easy. You only find it easy because, some one prepared nutrient concentrate for you and gave you an instruction on how to use it!

Click to expand...

I can tell your talking out of your ass and dont know squat about growing. Ya your better off saving your explination for someone whos buying the shit your tryin to sell bro cause you sound like a newb that just bought the whole hydro store to grow one plant and your regurgitating whats written on ad campaigns. To be honest. And if you think that you can control the type of high that your getting from your healthy geno compared to my healthy geno by pouring some different bottles into it to make it a "more happy" high then your way too high on crack to be growing weed bro. Maybe some noob will buy your bs but i see riiiiiiight through it.

Don't you think you making way too many predictions about people you never met. You are very arrogant and disrespectful. I don't think you ever researched cultivation to this point. I am not going to waste any more of my time for you.

JohnySmith1 said:

I really don't want to explain chemistry of cannabinoids and how important is the ratio of THC and other psychoactive compounds. But if you will be growing your plants with the only NPK + Ca Mg, your plants will experience stress through it's grow cycle, and you will end up having big buds with a lot of negative effects, such as paranoia, anxiety, etc. I am sure you know this, but THC is 1 out of 84 known cannabinoids. My point is, if you have big crystaly buds, sticky and smelly, it does not mean this is a good quality cannabis, it only means this buds are high in THC.
What I am saying is, if you want to smoke something, that makes you lazy, paranoid, anxious and finally depressed, grow the simple way this big 20-25% THC buds. Personally I prefer to experience positive effects such as, creativity, feeling of motivation to do something, being happy and energetic etc. To grow cannabis with positive effects, you need to supply its with every single element it needs, apart of NPK and Cal Mag, it also needs boron, copper, manganese, zinc, chlorine, molybdenum and many more. And each of this elements must be in particular ratio, so please dont say, growing cannabis is easy. You only find it easy because, some one prepared nutrient concentrate for you and gave you an instruction on how to use it!

Click to expand...

You made my eyes cross with that load of bullshit -- biggest, stinkiest pile I've seen at RIU all week.

unwine99 said:

You made my eyes cross with that load of bullshit -- biggest, stinkiest pile I've seen at RIU all week.

Click to expand...

Here is some info from Wikipedia:

Cannabis (drug)
Cannabis, commonly known as marijuana[7] and by numerous other names,a[›] is a preparation of the Cannabis plant intended for use as a psychoactive drug and as medicine.[8][9] Pharmacologically, the principalpsychoactive constituent of cannabis is tetrahydrocannabinol (THC); it is one of 483 known compounds in the plant,[10] including at least 84 other cannabinoids, such as cannabidiol (CBD), cannabinol (CBN),tetrahydrocannabivarin (THCV),[11][12] and cannabigerol (CBG).

Types[edit]
All classes derive from cannabigerol-type compounds and differ mainly in the way this precursor is cyclized.[10] The classical cannabinoids are derived from their respective 2-carboxylic acids(2-COOH) by decarboxylation (catalyzed by heat, light, or alkaline conditions).[11]

• CBG (Cannabigerol)
• CBC (Cannabichromene)
• CBL (Cannabicyclol)
• CBV (Cannabivarin)
• THCV (Tetrahydrocannabivarin)
• CBDV (Cannabidivarin)
• CBCV (Cannabichromevarin)
• CBGV (Cannabigerovarin)
• CBGM (Cannabigerol Monomethyl Ether)

Tetrahydrocannabinol[edit]
Main article: Tetrahydrocannabinol
Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) is the primary psychoactive component of the Cannabis plant. Delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol (Δ9-THC, THC) and delta-8-tetrahydrocannabinol (Δ8-THC), mimic the action of anandamide, a neurotransmitter produced naturally in the body. These two THCs produce the effects associated with cannabis by binding to the CB1 cannabinoid receptors in the brain. THC appears to ease moderate pain (analgesic) and to be neuroprotective, while also offering the potential to reduce neuroinflammation and to stimulate neurogenesis.[12] THC has approximately equal affinity for the CB1 and CB2 receptors.[13]

Cannabidiol[edit]
Main article: Cannabidiol
Cannabidiol (CBD) is not psychoactive, and was thought not to affect the psychoactivity of THC.[14] However, recent evidence shows that smokers of cannabis with a higher CBD/THC ratio were less likely to experience schizophrenia-like symptoms.[15] Cannabidiol has little affinity for CB1 and CB2 receptors but acts as an indirect antagonist of cannabinoid agonists.[16] Recently it was found to be an antagonist at the putative new cannabinoid receptor, GPR55, a GPCR expressed in the caudate nucleus and putamen.[17] Cannabidiol has also been shown to act as a5-HT1A receptor agonist.[18]

It appears to relieve convulsion, inflammation, anxiety, and nausea.[16] CBD has a greater affinity for the CB2 receptor than for the CB1 receptor.[16]

CBD shares a precursor with THC and is the main cannabinoid in low-THC Cannabis strains. CBD apparently plays a role in preventing the short-term memory loss associated with THC in mammals.[citation needed]

Some research suggests that the antipsychotic effects of cannabidiol potentially represent a novel mechanism in the treatment of schizophrenia.[19][non-primary source needed]

Researchers at California Pacific Medical Center discovered CBD's ability to "turn off" the activity of ID1, the gene responsible for metastasis in breast and other types of cancers, including the particularly aggressive triple negative breast cancer.[20][21] The researchers hope to start human trials soon.[22]

Cannabinol[edit]
Main article: Cannabinol
Cannabinol (CBN) is the primary product of THC degradation, and there is usually little of it in a fresh plant. CBN content increases as THC degrades in storage, and with exposure to light and air. It is only mildly psychoactive. Its affinity to the CB2 receptor is higher than for the CB1 receptor.[23]

Cannabigerol[edit]
Main article: Cannabigerol
Cannabigerol (CBG) is non-psychotomimetic but still affects the overall effects of Cannabis. It acts as an α2-adrenergic receptor agonist, 5-HT1A receptor antagonist, and CB1 receptor antagonist.[24] It also binds to the CB2receptor.[24]

Tetrahydrocannabivarin[edit]
Main article: Tetrahydrocannabivarin
Tetrahydrocannabivarin (THCV) is prevalent in certain central Asian and southern African strains of Cannabis.[25][26] It is an antagonist of THC at CB1 receptors and attenuates the psychoactive effects of THC.[27]

Cannabidivarin[edit]
Main article: Cannabidivarin
Although cannabidivarin (CBDV) is usually a minor constituent of the cannabinoid profile, enhanced levels of CBDV have been reported in feral cannabis plants from the northwest Himalayas, and in hashish from Nepal.[26][28]

Cannabichromene[edit]
Main article: Cannabichromene
Cannabichromene (CBC) is non-psychoactive and does not affect the psychoactivity of THC.[14] More common in tropical cannabis varieties. Effects include anti-inflammatory and analgesic.