Why is the EC so high? Who is wrong? need a professional here please!!

Right everyone, here is the problem.

I have Soft water so my EC is 0.1

I add 300 ml per 100 litres of Canna Coco A&B.

250 ml per 100 litres of Canna Boost (canna says i can use upto 400 ml per 100 litres)

150 ml per litre of Advanced Nutrients sensical bloom. (Advanced Nutrients says i should use 200 ml per 100 litres)

My EC rockets to 2.4!!!! is this too much?

Does anyone know a good formula to use to keep my EC under 2.0 as this information i believe is false and way too high.

BTW this is only week 2 of flower. thanks all.

ste147 said:

Right everyone, here is the problem.

I have Soft water so my EC is 0.1

I add 300 ml per 100 litres of Canna Coco A&B.

250 ml per 100 litres of Canna Boost (canna says i can use upto 400 ml per 100 litres)

150 ml per litre of Advanced Nutrients sensical bloom. (Advanced Nutrients says i should use 200 ml per 100 litres)

My EC rockets to 2.4!!!! is this too much?

Does anyone know a good formula to use to keep my EC under 2.0 as this information i believe is false and way too high.

BTW this is only week 2 of flower. thanks all.

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Yes it is to high add more water till you get to 2

only the plants will tell you if its to high or not. Not a chart

Hemlock said:

Yes it is to high add more water till you get to 2

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is 2 fine then even at an early stage? is it true anything over 2 the roots cant take the nutrients in?

I run a max of 1800 on my most aggresive girls. 1000 - 1200 ppm starting flower. If you want to use that formula you need to figure out the ratio's of each additive and adjust it accordingly to bring your ppm to the point you want.

Are you really making 100 litre batches? Do you have meters? Do you have a grow bible? All good things to have.

Mix only what you need, record everything and eventually you will have a schedule that works for you.

http://www.kindgreenbuds.com/cannabis-grow-bible.html this might help

Good Luck

1000 EC = 700ppm.

2.4 EC = 1680ppm

Agito said:

only the plants will tell you if its to high or not. Not a chart

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this. if you see your plants burning then its too high. otherwise ill just keep it at 2.4

Sir.Ganga said:

I run a max of 1800 on my most aggresive girls. 1000 - 1200 ppm starting flower. If you want to use that formula you need to figure out the ratio's of each additive and adjust it accordingly to bring your ppm to the point you want.

Are you really making 100 litre batches? Do you have meters? Do you have a grow bible? All good things to have.

Mix only what you need, record everything and eventually you will have a schedule that works for you.

http://www.kindgreenbuds.com/cannabis-grow-bible.html this might help

Good Luck

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wow u feed quite high, i make 100 litre batches at a time on an auto feed yes, im sure if i pulled 50ml off each mix i wud prob bring the ec down considerably. so is it true that your roots can take in excess of 2.0 ec fine? thanks for your help

start at half strength. always.

SO WHERE IS MY PLANTS REDLINE? HOW HIGH CAN MY NUTRIENT SOLUTION GO?
The optimal nutrient strength for your plants will depend on 3 things – the age of your plant, the type of plant and individual variations amongst plants.
For example most older ( more than 4 weeks old ) fast growing plants can safely handle nutrient strengths up to 1200 PPM ( 2.4 EC ) once they are past the seedling or juvenile stage. Some individual plants can handle much higher concentrations than this - up to and over 2000 PPM ( 4.0 EC )!
The other way to get your plants to safely handle larger amounts of nutrients is to use a 3rd generation nutrient that incorporates ionic channelling technologies, such as Dutch Master GOLD NUTRIENT. These technologies allow for a typical plant to handle much higher nutrient strengths than normal. A plant that could handle only 1200 PPM ( 2.4 EC ) on a regular nutrient can easily handle 1600 PPM ( 3.2 EC ) with an ionic channelled nutrient like Dutch Master GOLD. Currently only Dutch Master GOLD NUTRIENT has this ionic channel technology.
The best way to tell if you have reached your plants maximum nutrient concentration ( the red line ) is when you start seeing the very tip of your leaves turn brown or yellow. This often looks like a small burn ( which it is ). Once you see this you know you have reached your plants maximal nutrient strength.
Once you know your plants red line or nutrient strength limit, it is a good rule of thumb to not let the nutrient concentration get more than 150 – 200 PPM beyond this ( 0.3 – 0.4 EC ). Hope this helps. Its from Dutch masters, it's the best explanation I can find.

Add your addatives then test ec and only then add your main nutrient. add in smaller amounts to desires ec but like said earlier half strength sometimes even 1/4 strength.

Cocofeind said:

Add your addatives then test ec and only then add your main nutrient. add in smaller amounts to desires ec but like said earlier half strength sometimes even 1/4 strength.

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ass backwards. main nutes are always the first added. additives are just that, and are to compliment the main nutes. and some can lockout mains if mixed improperly.
water, nutes, additives, ph. in that order always.

hmm ive always been taught different to that.

superstoner1 said:

ass backwards. main nutes are always the first added. additives are just that, and are to compliment the main nutes. and some can lockout mains if mixed improperly.

water, nutes, additives, ph. in that order always.

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yeap, thats right

Closetgardner said:

SO WHERE IS MY PLANTS REDLINE? HOW HIGH CAN MY NUTRIENT SOLUTION GO?
The optimal nutrient strength for your plants will depend on 3 things – the age of your plant, the type of plant and individual variations amongst plants.
For example most older ( more than 4 weeks old ) fast growing plants can safely handle nutrient strengths up to 1200 PPM ( 2.4 EC ) once they are past the seedling or juvenile stage. Some individual plants can handle much higher concentrations than this - up to and over 2000 PPM ( 4.0 EC )!
The other way to get your plants to safely handle larger amounts of nutrients is to use a 3rd generation nutrient that incorporates ionic channelling technologies, such as Dutch Master GOLD NUTRIENT. These technologies allow for a typical plant to handle much higher nutrient strengths than normal. A plant that could handle only 1200 PPM ( 2.4 EC ) on a regular nutrient can easily handle 1600 PPM ( 3.2 EC ) with an ionic channelled nutrient like Dutch Master GOLD. Currently only Dutch Master GOLD NUTRIENT has this ionic channel technology.
The best way to tell if you have reached your plants maximum nutrient concentration ( the red line ) is when you start seeing the very tip of your leaves turn brown or yellow. This often looks like a small burn ( which it is ). Once you see this you know you have reached your plants maximal nutrient strength.
Once you know your plants red line or nutrient strength limit, it is a good rule of thumb to not let the nutrient concentration get more than 150 – 200 PPM beyond this ( 0.3 – 0.4 EC ). Hope this helps. Its from Dutch masters, it's the best explanation I can find.

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nice post! thanks very much. rep added.

MrMeanGreen said:

1000 EC = 700ppm.

2.4 EC = 1680ppm

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I read recently that ppm conversions differ quite considerably between the three main continents' (U.S.-E.U.-Asia)TDS meters.And that the only true readings of all three is E.C./Ms as those are the actual base for the conversion to T.D.S. ppm meters.